I actually use the same heatsink as you on my master gpu. I upgraded my EM heatsinks to SM-A heatsinks while back. I did add more fins to cover the whole fan lenght and taped all gaps. Used autofans instead of max.
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More fins? Any pictures?
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Right side.
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So you chopped some off and used a thermal paste between them then? Or soldered them?
So why the switch to this cooler?
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I used thermal adhesive. There was some foam to fill the gap.
I bought SM-A heatsiks for better slave GPU cooling. Didn't see any difference in master tho. Some have reported cooler temps than old EM 2-piece heatsink.
Temps with max fans
CPU: 75*C
GPU: 79*CLast edited: Sep 15, 2018 -
Meaker@Sager Company Representative
I've generally read the opposite on the heatsinks with the split design being less efficient.
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I suspect my GTX 870M is dying after using the laptop for 4 years and a bit. It started with the screen freezing when I was playing games (BSOD error: VIDEO SCHEDULER INTERNAL ERROR), and now the whole Windows freezes just a few seconds after booting up. Tried reinstalling the Windows (both Windows 7 and Windows 10), but still can't solve the problems. And if I go into the safe mode, it works perfectly fine.
Besides, it can detect my GTX 870M in BIOS. But in Windows, it only shows my iGPU in Device Manager.
So I guess it's either the graphic card or the MXM port of the motherboard? I also tried to boot up without the graphic card. The fan for the graphic card was spinning on full speed, the laptop kept beeping and eventually it shut down automatically around 10 seconds later. Is this because the EC can't detect the graphic card? And is there a way to stop this?
I just wanna make sure it's my GTX 870M causing the issues before I pay a few hundred bucks to get a new card.
Thanks in advance.Last edited: Sep 20, 2018 -
Often hitting power and even temperature limit (at 87°C)
Afterburner set at +135 on the core and +250 on the memory.
No overclock on the CPU.
General score 8595
Graphics 10400 - 48.92 / 42.04 fps
Physics 8562 - 27.18 fps
Combined 3745 - 17.42 fps
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Meaker@Sager Company Representative
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So it should help.
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Meaker@Sager Company Representative
It's a good paste, check your spread pattern when removing the heatsink, share a pic if you can.
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I planned on doing so and I will
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Meaker@Sager Company Representative
We can let you know if it looks ok or not
you get to know over time.
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New paste will help a lot. -
I did replace the thermal paste already about a month and a half ago, since even the CPU was thermal throttling when I bought it.
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Meaker@Sager Company Representative
That's a nice step up
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For real
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Meaker@Sager Company Representative
I think that card is the perfect partner for the system.
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Used to get 50ish fps in GTA V with mid-high settings. Now with everything maxed out, I still get around 60fps most of the time. -
Small major update on my thermals
Did a number of tests in stock configuration.
I made screenshots of Idle temperatures, after running the Furmark Benchmark and 3DMark, as well as CPU-ID CPU Bench.
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After these baseline tests, I began tearing down the laptop to clean off the MX4 and apply some fresh Kryonaut.
Between applying the MX4 and buying the Kryonaut, I learnt that with direct die contact it's a better choice to spread the paste, rather than applying 'a grain of rice'.
Wether or not this is true, I dont know, but this time I decided to spread the paste, as directed by Thermal Grizzly.
As can be seen on the CPU, the grain of cooked rice method did give me a consistent and even spread of the compound. The MX4 was also still very 'fresh'.
On the GPU, on the other hand, it was clear that some portion of the die did not get as much coverage as the other, or was spread out much thinner. (the lightly coated areas on the die and heatsink corresponded) The MX4 also dried out a lot more. This might have caused some higher and uneven temperatures across the die.
The thermal Grizzly Kryonaut was applied and spread out evenly across both the CPU and GPU die this time around. And I paid close attention to apply the heatsinks nice and evenly.
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After this, I ran the same barrage of tests, to see wether or not it had helped… This time I did not take a printscreen of the CPU test, since it wasnt a very good test to begin with, I should have logged core per core temperatures. All I have is the stresstest, which bumps up the temperature untill it throttles anyways.
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Here is a comparison between the 2 Afterburner Logs, I would have liked to plot the GPU-Z ones in excell, but that thing freaks out with datasets over 255 points...
Anyways, You can clearly see, while running the same benchmark, that the Thermal Limit sets in way later now with the Kryonaut (on the right), while it manages to maintain higher clocks as well (759Mhz compared to 696Mhz before)
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Meaker@Sager Company Representative
What's the test?
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The comparison? It was a 5 minute FurMark 1080p benchmark.
You can see it hittin the power limit untill it hits the thermal limit. It's a pretty taxing benchmark.
So it will always ramp up till thermal throttling under that kind of load.
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Meaker@Sager Company Representative
Just be careful running furmark over and over, it's generally not recommended for notebook vrms.
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Yeah I know, I only ran it twice now.
What do you think of the write up and pictures btw?
Since you asked to post them
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Meaker@Sager Company Representative
Pretty standard behaviour for a furmark run from what I see, the drivers do detect the load and limit the card beyond normal limits so it's a bit hard to use for testing too.
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As seen on pictures you haven't sealed the gaps between the fan and heatsink? Try doing that with some foil tape.
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Ah, yes I could try that, but I'm pretty happy with the thermals as they sit right now. Theres a bit of hard plastic running from the heatsink till the top port of the fan tho.
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If only I could do it without having to reapply the paste
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Meaker@Sager Company Representative
You do get faster getting a good application with paste the more you practise
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Its not that I m bad at it or dislike doing it, just the Kryonaut is pretty costly
But it was the first time I ever spread it out like that and the Kryonaut applicator is pretty bad to use, wish they would supply a spatula as well
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By the way, besides the Furmark I also ran 3DMark Firestrike to compare data.
With the MSI Afterburner logging everything in a bespoke log viewer, I found out:
- in general I dropped 2-3 degrees C on my peak GPU temperatures during the same scenes (with a small increas in core clock of about 10-50Mhz)
-whereas my CPU dropped between 5 to 10 degrees C during the same scenes!!!
Amazing stuff this Kryonaut!
Verstuurd vanaf mijn SM-G930F met TapatalkLast edited: Oct 8, 2018 -
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Meaker@Sager Company Representative
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hi guys I plan to upgrade to windows 10 on my P157SM,
what problems will I have with the drivers ?
or is it better to stay under windows 7 with no problems ?^^ -
Meaker@Sager Company Representative
Take an image backup first so you can just restore back if you have issues.
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I am still using the drivers I have for Windows 7. -
Meaker@Sager Company Representative
Still worth taking a backup before, this is windows we are talking about.
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The keyboard lights stop working, the screen sometimes dims automaticly to full dim. Other than that no major issues.
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Meaker@Sager Company Representative
The LEDs have their own cable coming from the keyboard, check that's in on the motherboard.
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Yeah they flash up on start up and go off once win 10 is up... its a driver issue
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Hello All,
I was hoping for some help clarifying GPU upgrade paths. I would like to upgrade to a 1070 but I'm confused with some things.
I see there are 2 versions of the 1070 card that are around: the MSI and the Gecube/(Eurocom?)
Are revisions of these GPU's that I should be aware will or will not work?
Are there specific GPU BIOS that is necessary to install for these to work? mobo BIOS
Is it true that the Gecube version is prone to blowing up?
Can the modifications be done in place to the current heatsink?
I'm ok with purchasing a used card pulled from another machine just so it will last for another 6 months or so until the 2070 mobility lines are released so I'm not too picky about getting a pristine new card.
Thanks in advance! -
Meaker@Sager Company Representative
Most cards are the wrong shape so you need one of those two. No bios required iirc. The gecube had a much weaker vrm.
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Thank you for your quick answer!
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Meaker@Sager Company Representative
The MSI card might need you to cut some bits in the heatsink iirc which would be the downside to that.
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