*** Official Clevo P570WM | P570WM3 / Sager NP9570 Owners Lounge ***

This, just remove it and put some electronics safe paste and you'll be good to go. I always try to apply paste wherever I can.

 

I have found when getting to 0.5mm mine would not all make contact, I had to vary the height of the pads in places.

 

OMG Fox, you started using Clevo's ! You abandoned the Alienware fan club or what ? XD
(I'm in same boat as you there, started liking Clevo's..)

 

If your copper plate is warped the only solutions are to de-solder it from the heatsink and then hammer it flat and reattach it, or buy a new one, $100 us from eurocom
it may be worth smacking it with a flat sledge end and see if you can shape it to your liking prior to forking over the funds for the heatsink........or a corsair H100i is also cheap.

 

If I were going to remove it, I would have a new copper plate made for it... about a 0.5mm thicker than the original and with a precision machined mating surface, then solder that in place. I am going to buy a hot air soldering station to do some GPU and motherboard mods and repairs, so I might give that a shot. I'd probably still want a new heat sink in case that takes a few days and doesn't work as effectively as I would hope that it would.

 

The station is fine for small stuff, but for something like the heat-sink you'll be better off either with your kitchen oven (preheat to ~210ºC), or propane torch (careful not to overheat the pipes).

 

Yeah this heatsink has a massive thermal mass compared to any other notebook heatsink.

 

@Mr. Fox , I noticed that the pressure strips that you posted seem to only run in a small strip pattern in one direction on that pressure film. It would appear that your 4970k is de-lidded? Although I must be incorrect because I am sure you would have mentioned that.

I exploded a heatsink for this machine a while back and it was pretty difficult to get the copper plate to exist in the correct plane and took several re-soldering efforts on my part to get it correct. There is a little play available in the soldering as far as seating depth. Remember too that the stock solder is the very lowest melting point solder that you can probably find, like 280-310 deg F. if you do decide to try and fix it remember to use an assortment of vise grips etc. in order to keep the other soldered elements from "falling off", if that happens then you will have a mess as I did.

 

The photo of the pressure testing on the Alienware is a 4930MX and all laptop CPUs are lidless. They do not have an IHS like desktop CPUs.

The pressure and contact are excellent on the Alienware 18, M18xR2 and M18xR1 CPU and GPU heat sinks.

Have you considered modding a heat sink to fashion a retention bracket for your liquid cooling setup using the aluminum housing so you can cool the other components? I was thinking about this the other day. As long as the opening around the CPU is large enough to allow the water block to make solid contact with the CPU IHS, the water block could possibly then be attached to that big monster aluminum housing. Install the aluminum housing first, then mount the water block to that instead of the motherboard. Or, have a thick copper heat plate between the water block and CPU, with Liquid Ultra on both sides.

 

The former description is exactly what I tried to do already with the hydro-cooler and heatsink combo, the results where not very good, with the intention of greater heat dissipation potential in what is ultimately more cold metal, but it doesn't compare to the direct mount method. even when one fan and all the heat pipes intact.

 

Wow! Great job RV! Just flashed my memory to 2400 and it seems very stable. Was trying to get 2666 to run, but not sure if this board is cut out for that.

 

http://www.passmark.com/baselines/V8/display.php?id=42825059376

 

Hi all,
Just decided to spend on this monster. Want 120 Hz display, 980M SLI, and 4930K. Any advice for a supplier in Europe and best configuration please?
Many thanks for your kind understanding and cooperation,
Alex

 

@teoabroad ,
Your most economical purchase would be to buy GPU cards/SSD's/CPU/ RAM and OS separately. Buy a bare bones system if you can find one, and install everything your self, otherwise if you want the warranty and the system installed at factory, then you should ask someone here who is in eastern Europe like Tri-Turbo.
Hope that helps.
Taka

 

Indeed you won't find that config generally available to buy. It will need to be a bit hand crafted.

 

I've been eyeballing this title on Steam for a long time, but didn't want to spend $30 on it. I noticed it was on sale this evening and snagged it. Best $10 I've spent on a game in a while.

[parsehtml]<iframe width="853" height="480" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/awh-rozPCwc?rel=0" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen></iframe>[/parsehtml]

 

Yes I have heard things good things about it, now hopefully the functional stuff is done with my mod I can get a little time to actually play some games.

I've been just on my shield tablet for a week now lol (playing some retro heroes 3 so can't complain too much).

 

I'm not aware of anyone that sells it here barebone, let alone the mentioned config. Import and as Taka suggested, "a bit" of manual work wont hurt

 

Yes!
http://www.intelligentmemory.com/

Now i can upgrade to 64GB.
Will it work?
Can i use 4X16GB ECC in this machine?

 

I dont recall anyone trying it yet, as far as I know the 4th Gen CPU's only support 8GB per stick. As per that site mentions you need a 5th gen CPU.

 

There is a thread in another forum, regarding those modules and exactly P570WM, there aren't any updates since early this year. I guess the project is left behind (I think BIOS modification was needed).

 

Sad.
Thank you both.

 

I think prema would need a beer lorries worth to dedicate his time on something like that lol.

 

why am i not surprised, haswell and its refresh 2 years, skylake refresh kaby lake, total to 2 or 2.5 years before 10nm hits.

wonder when we'll ever see this laptop revive with one of the newer E cpu

 

Indeed the manual work doesn't hurt but where to find a barebone Clevo provider?
Many thaks for your help,
Alex

 

If it possible i would love to!

 

There stands a chance when the memory used is standard.

 

tbh ddr4 isnt all that amazing what it turned out to be, how is the latency so high , perhaps its because ddr3 had such a long time to mature i'd really get ddr4 for sole reason because it can fit 16gb in 1 stick for desktop, not sure about laptop prob still stuck with 8gb

 

Where are you located?

 

You can't really get it another way unless you look 2nd hand.

 

Well firstly there is no need for the 4960x...

 

Please mates help me find a way to import a bare bone one with 120 Hz panel and separated other parts: in Europe all providers (Eurocom distributors) are very expensive... As suggested I want to build it myself.
Alex

 

The 120hz model was not hugely popular in Europe so that's going to be very difficult.

 

any news on any new nvidia GPU, that might work in this computer?
980m being out for awhile now, should refresh soon eh

 

A more unlocked GM204 is hoped for, it's pretty easy to predict how it would perform.

 

For those looking for bare bones, the only place I have seen them is on ebay, so that is really your option. The other thing to do is buy basically a bare bones from Eurocom, just configure everything to as base model as possible. You will always pay more for the drives and the GPU's and CPU's from the retailer. Almost double in most cases. As far as the 120 Hz screen, meaker is correct they are far an few between. I thought the retailers even discontinued them for awhile and they are special order only. Others here have purchased and moded this machine to different screens like 3D 120 Hz etc. so you will have to find that part and install it your self most likely...

Also remember that you can ask Eurocom to install components and software for you. If you send them the ram you want to use for example, and the OS and the SSD's then they will install them for you. You just have to purchase that stuff first and tell them that you already have those components...they may require them to be new I am not sure.

 

I am looking at replacing my 880m's thermal pads. Can anyone tell my the type and sizes i need to buy to replace them and possibly where from? TIA.

 

They are not all 1 mm on this machine, get a mix of 0.5mm and 1 mm. You can stack them for the thicker ones.

 

you may also find sheets of thermal material of different thickness from coollaboratory liquid ultra solid state thermal sheets if I recall. Not cheap but if I was replacing mine, I would definitely consider trying those. Just a suggestion I have not tried them but have read and heard good things about them from others.

 

Mostly it's about getting the right heights, the different pads make very little difference to even high end overclocking.

 

985m or 980mx or 1080m anytime now

 

We will have to wait and see if Nvidia bother.

 

For those of you that have upgraded to 980m's where did you get your cards from?

 

Since its a current GPU your original reseller may be able to get you one.

 

Yes always worth talking to your original reseller. There are some of us offering them separately too

 

Clevo P570WM (Eurocom Panther)

• 4930K @ 4.5GHz
• GTX 980M SLI @ 1302/1403
• 16GB DDR3-2400 @ CL11-13-13-25 1T
• Dual 330W AC Adapter

Options: Resolution: 1920 x 1080; Quality: Very High; SSAA: On; Texture filtering: AF 16X; Motion Blur: Normal; Tesselation: Very High; VSync: Off; Advanced PhysX: On

Average Results

• Average Framerate: 81.00
• Max. Framerate: 329.71
• Min. Framerate: 14.29

Same as above with CPU set as PhysX Processor

Average Results

• Average Framerate: 86.00
• Max. Framerate: 260.15
• Min. Framerate: 13.29

 

Interesting, did you unlock the memory divider some how or did you flash the SPD and leave it at default?

 

I flashed SPD with a mod using Thaiphoon Burner... all of the work was done by mw86 @ T|I, I just flashed it.

 

Nicely done, very nicely done

 

Thanks, buddy.



Hopefully, I can get these atrocious CPU thermals sorted soon. I ordered a new CPU heat sink kit from Eurocom today, along with a couple of tubes of Liquid Ultra and some 0.5MM x 30MM square machined copper shims. I'm hoping the new heat sink will fit well enough to not need the shims, but I'll have them just in case. I'm not liking having to use AC cooling for anything above 4.3GHz.