What I would like to see would actually take rewriting a section of the bios. And what I needed to do, I already figured out a workaround for it.
Prema has been quite busy with other projects, so any development on this one will more than likely take some time.
I haven't really done any benchmarks per say cpu related because they will never beat my 5960X, but kpaxx got his so i'm 100 percent sure he will be posting all kinds.
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Meaker@Sager Company Representative
I saw around 650-660W from the wall maximum with a hex core at 4.4ghz with a pair of volt modded (core and memory) 780Ms. The 980Ms never quite got that high.
Mr. Fox likes this. -
That is so funny. You don't need a bunch of psu's for cpu benching only.
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I think you missed what I was talking about.
I said cpu benching, not 3d benching. -
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Not sure why everyone is not understanding this....
3d benching is one form of benching and cpu benching is another.
CPU benching
wprime32/1024
cinbench 11.5
3d benching is video card benching.
3dmark11
3dmark vantage
3dmark
Ergo why you only need 2 psu's for CPU benching
Hope this clears things up.TomJGX, Papusan, Mr. Fox and 1 other person like this. -
Meaker@Sager Company Representative
You should not really need 4 PSUs though, at 660W from the wall you still have at least another 100W to play with on 2 PSUs.
Mr. Fox likes this. -
Three 330W adapters should be enough, but I have only tested quad 330W. I don't know if having 3 connected might create an imbalanced condition where the one on a converter box all by itself is overtaxed or not. One would have to try it and see if it works OK with 3 versus 4.
I have already pulled just over 700W with 4930K and 980M SLI. For full-on overclocked 3D benching with the Xeon, 660W isn't going to cut.
Even the Sky X9E with the 6700K @ 4.7GHz and 980M SLI pulls over 600W. The 200W GTX 980 GPU overclocked to 1500/2000 and 1.275v pulls close to 300W by itself using a wicked test vBIOS @Prema made for me. With the 6700K overclocked to 4.7GHz the GTX 980 overclocked to that extent will trip the breaker on a single 330W AC adapter in 3DMark 11 test #1 within a matter of about 3 seconds. -
What the....?!!? A $1K+ power brick setup??!! Just for overclocking!!??
You overclocking gurus remind me of those street racers on that TV show. I'm in awe of how they feed their "passions" and get their cars modded and tuned (and repaired when they stress components to the max...sound familiar?) just right, with huge sacrifices in costs incurred in time and money, just to be #1 - just as my jaw drops when I start adding up the numbers and figuring the hours for what you guys do. Perhaps that's why it appears that most of you are pretty tight-lipped for the most part when it comes to revealing information that might give an "edge" to a potential overclocking "opponent", such as which TIM results in a 1 degree C decrease, or which tweaks allow you to get an extra 100 MHz or use .001 volt less. It's all a bit cutthroat, really - but then again, so are a lot of things in life. I guess that when you spend so much money and time on figuring out a mod or a tweak, it's not something you want to just "give away."
And yes, I'm intrigued on various levels - a lover of it all - not a hater. A member of the "if I could, I would, too" club, to be sure.
TomJGX, CaerCadarn, Papusan and 2 others like this. -
Meaker@Sager Company Representative
At 85% efficient 700W from the wall is 595W, an extra 2 cores should not eat another 65W.ole!!! likes this. -
See that AC unit in the background? That's my benching cooler. There are several of us that do that. Brother @johnksss is who hooked me on that idea, so he gets all the credit for creative thinking. Do you remember @scook9 and his chest freezer Alienware benching? That goes way back to the good old days right there.
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Can you turn the system upside down, use an external monitor, and throw a dice pot on there? Keep the Temps much cooler :-D could probably do the same with the GPUs.
Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I337 using Tapatalk -
Meaker@Sager Company Representative
Someone modded an all in one water cooler on it, nothing stops you from going all out with Dice, however with the plastics around you have to be careful.
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I know @scook9 has a photo or two floating around here somewhere.
edit: found the post and the pix are gone... these two thumbnails are all I could find on the web
As far as the AC cooling goes, it works great. I started out using the units in hotels rooms as I traveled extensively for business and after work I stayed up all night benching on the hotel AC. You can using an ironing board and adjust it to exactly the right height for the under-window units. The fold-up stands to lay your suitcase on also work fairly decent.
Last edited: Feb 16, 2016temp1147462323, zdroj and USMC578 like this. -
No problem
Yeah, you are a bit off the mark my friend....
Tight lipped when others try to take what you teach and pass it off as their own is where the problems come in.
You know...you know you are like....lets see....180 watts off of your 700W number. This is coming from someone who actually has one. This is not something i found on the net but i know to be a fact.... Just saying my friend.
Yep, I remember i caught alot of flack from members for "getting it colder" as we use to call it over at evga. And the never ending stories of what they would or wouldn't do. What they would or wouldn't buy. And temp this and that. And bad for you this and that parts. and blah blah blah. Now it's only a hand full of people that try to pull that stunt.
Sure, did it already, but burned up a board in the process. I was half stepping with the prep work and water dripped on the board and that's all she wrote. Luckily only the board went. Cost was 600 bucks for a replacement. I can't be sitting back crying over spilt milk. Throw the cash out and get back in the game. There are a couple of other steps to go with that, but you get the general idea.Mr. Fox likes this. -
Definitely makes sense. I burned my board on my deployment and that it was $450 to replace. I do remember when I diced the Alienware, I rubber gummed a lot of the board.
I ask cuz yesterday as I was doing some cleaning I came upon my Koolance dice pot and was reminiscing of seeing that sweet misty coolness lift out of the cup as I benched. Man, I miss it. One day I'll be back.
Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I337 using Tapatalk -
I could gain from it but i get a bit lazy, when most can be done with just ac. As long as you are maximizing the output potential.
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Yup. I just enjoyed seeing a max temp of like 28°C
Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I337 using Tapatalk -
Haha, sure did, have screen shots at - 29°C too. That was the better part.
Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I337 using Tapatalk -
Good times!
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Don't forget about Mr Moo And the original kitchen freezer.
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5960x x99 would be nice but skylake-E would be nicer with support of pcie ssds and more ram and all. id jump on that for sure.
two psu can get 660w still some room to play with how much from the cpu alone?
v5 pls, skylake all the way with dmi 3.0 -
Oh, yeah... good old Moo.
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Not really sure I understand what you're asking here....
Cut off point is roughly 880W which has already been done. -
I always wanted to try something like a fridge or a cold garage (which I've had plenty of this winter), but I had heard that condensation could form and destroy everything. Maybe not?
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eww thats like mini space heater
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You do have to pay attention to that. I have never had an issue with condensation, but it could be an issue in a humid environment. Even so, I do reach underneath and feel the bottom every once in a while to make sure nothing is feeling damp. It's like anything else... be smart and pay attention, then everything will be all right. But, being stupid and not paying attention, one can expect problems. It might take a while, but trouble will always coming knocking at your door if you're stupid. Some people might think some of the things that we do are risky and stupid, but if you pay close attention, not so much. I actually baby my stuff, but I do expect it to perform. Sort of like the old expression "rode hard and put up wet" kills horses. If you treat them right you can ride them hard over and over again. Life is full of risks, but if you manage them well and have an effective strategy, disasters can usually be averted.
Now get out there in that cold garage and get cracking, mister.
Edit: here is the latest poll on HWBOT. As you can see, "Winter Air" ranks right above liquid nitrogen among the risk takers that live life to the fullest and take calculated risks with their hardware.
Last edited: Feb 17, 2016 -
I still don't understand?
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I think this might be what he is talking about... 800W space heater.
TomJGX likes this. -
Now get out there in that cold garage and get cracking, mister.
As soon as my order of the latest and greatest Mr. Fox-endorsed TIM arrives...
Mr. Fox likes this. -
if you dont get condensation what AC temp are you running at right below the machine? 15-20c?
Mr. Fox likes this. -
When using your rig outside you "only" have to watch at humidity. It should be under 30%. Otherwise it could get you some fireworks while benching.
When it is too cold for snowing then you know the time is right!
Gesendet von meinem LG-H955 mit TapatalkMr. Fox likes this. -
Or use a portable dehumidifier in a winter cold garage. Will definitely work
zdroj, Mr. Fox and CaerCadarn like this. -
Meaker@Sager Company Representative
I'm curious how you are working that out, you are saying that your system is drawing 880W from the bricks or from the wall? If your system is consuming 880W from the bricks then it's drawing 1035W from the wall, if it's 880W from the wall then yeah that would be at most 748W from the bricks (85% efficiency) but more likely around 704W which is pushing that bit past what two bricks could do.
Maybe the CPU is that much more hungry but yeah you would certainly need air conditioning for that amount of heat dissipation inside the unit
My own personal findings from the system and having it fully clocked was I saw 660W from the wall peak (330W from each brick using a wall meter).
Maybe your 980M cards are just hungrier than mine were since mine did hit a fairly early voltage wall they may have just been on the more efficient but less clocking side of the bell curve, that combined with the extra 2 cores and a leakier (but again better clocking) CPU could combine that way.Last edited: Feb 17, 2016 -
Using artificial cooling like AC or super-cold winter air you can get started with IC Diamond. That is all I had for years. The liquid metal comes in handy for times when you are not using the laptop in a freezing cold environment... which is obviously most of the time.
Yes... as a matter of fact, a little colder. Cool-down between benches my GPU sensors are often reporting 12°C, sometimes as low as 8°C. CPU DTS is usually reporting around 18°C at idle during cool down.
That's perfect for benching. I am comfortable with extended benching sessions on the patio in -18°C (0°F). I normally don't even wear a jacket in that kind of weather... jeans and t-shirt time... unless the wind is blowing. That's actually perfect weather to me, benching or not. I love winter and hate summer, LOL. I don't like being out in windy weather at any temperature. If the wind is strong enough to take all of my leaves and blow them off of my property, that is the only time I like wind. Then I don't have to rake and bag them stinking leaves.
My AC unit has a built-in dehumidifier, but I seldom actually need to use it.ole!!!, CaerCadarn, Papusan and 1 other person like this. -
Not all places in the world have need of an Ac unit
. Here at home is the need more for a good wood stove/oven. Norway have really only 2 seasons and not 4. Green and brown winter
. Almost never summer heat. More like rain or sleet. Summer is a nice 13-20 degrees. More like 15. We are happy if the summer temperatures become 21-23c.
Mr. Fox likes this. -
Prostar Computer Company Representative
Lol. Who needs thermal compound when you have ambient temps like that?
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Very very important.... My wife loves the heat. She heats the whole house with a huge fireplace, and I hate it
Must go out when it is at its worst
temp1147462323, TomJGX and Mr. Fox like this. -
I had this big long reply, but deleted since it would just go on and on....
Short answer...
The cut off is 880W from the wall only. -
Prostar Computer Company Representative
I was just being facetious.
Your wife sounds like she would like it out here in California; our "winters" are very short and usually in the 50s (in Los Angeles) Fahrenheit during the day. The rest of the time we're facing anywhere from 70 - 100 Fahrenheit.
Papusan likes this. -
Extreme in terms of what you are reading means stuff like crazy high clock speeds using liquid nitrogen cooling, etc. The kind of overclocking we do is not on that level. What we do is definitely extreme compared to what other notebook users typically do, (which is basically nothing,) but not extreme in the context of the desktop world of overclocking where hardcore cooling options are available.
You cannot use liquid metal paste for LN2 or other sub-zero cooling options. You need a paste that stays soft at sub-zero temperatures. Kryonaut is not the best option for overclocking using air or water cooling. It won't handle that well at all, but it will do fine with LN2 cooling. Conductonaut is the best option for overclocking using air or water cooling.USMC578 likes this. -
Ah well... at least you got that out of the way and can ask for her forgiveness instead of carrying the burden of a secret. You did the right thing, now take the punishment you deserve.
I've got a room if you need one, but I think my wife would be mad at me, too.
Thermal Grizzly product recommendations are somewhat confusing as they are written. We think of extreme in different terms than how they are using the word.
...the bold part is what helps you understand they are talking about using extreme cooling options, and using liquid metal with DICE, LN2 or phase change cooling is risky. It can get as hard as glass and break something. -
Meaker@Sager Company Representative
Oh, I know I was being very generous assuming 85% efficiency, so you have found it to be around 80% with the bricks likely able to give slightly over what they are rated for.
I was being conservative
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I have to ask....Exactly where does it say in black and white that our psu is 85 percent of anything? Just curious. Maybe im missing something. i mean stamped on the actual label. Thanks.
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Meaker@Sager Company Representative
The level 5 energy efficiency moniker (the V in the circle) says it should be greater than 86% efficient up to 250W so I took 85% as a generous figure at 330W, it will be lower than that of course. -
Then going by that. You could go by about 90% -10 percent.
Which brings it up to 800W off of 880W
Assuming you have a good psu.
Or a bad one at say
80% -20 percent
Which brings it up to 704W off of 880W
With yours being in the middle.
That is just way to random.... -
Meaker@Sager Company Representative
You could, but unlikely given how power supplies curve efficiency over 0-100% of load. They should not vary a huge amount from unit to unit in efficiency as this is more down to the architecture of the PSU but the actual limit of what they can supply would be impacted more yes.
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No need to over clock the psu, you only need to drop it's operating temp.
From around the net it's 80 to 90 percent. 10 to 20 percent. And a true accounting of watts from the wall, which most get wrong using these 15 dollar kill a watt meters.
That's why I don't even try to talk on those points. It's not 100 percent correct, no matter how much adding one does. No 2 parts are identical as most keep saying.
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