*** Official Clevo P65xHS(-G), P65xHPx(-G) / Sager NP8155, NP8156, NP8157 Owner's Lounge ***

Speaking of the cpu if you don't plan on overclocking you are better off with the 7700hq or 6700hq. I have the 7820hk and it runs really well just a bit hot. I am however able to run it at 4.0ghz constantly without it overheating for long hours. Any higher and it becomes a problem. Also if you do plan on getting the 6820hk or 7820hk do tick the option for liquid metal or better thermal paste it will come in handy! Just my two cents . Wishing you good luck on your future laptop!

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You won't regret it this laptop is a portable beast! Plus that 120hz screen is oh so very sweet. I hope you will enjoy it as much as I am

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I'll echo many of DaSpood's comments. Although I'm not a big gamer, I do encode lots of video which drives the cpu and gpu full out for over an hour at a time. Never has the fan noise approached the noise out of my old HP DV7 laptop.

Like you, I tend to keep my laptop for at least 5 years, so I purchased a unit with the 1070 just to give me the edge in longevity.

I am a touch typist and the right shift has never given me any issues.

 

1070 can deliver 2k @120hz. Have a good cooler.

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Hi Phoenix,

Actually, rather than have you do this, could you give me the instructions for how to do it myself (at least for most of it)? This is something I would like to know how to do as I help out several other people with their computers. Do you have a thread/threads on this?

I just installed Classic Shell on another machine I have and holy cow, why did I not do this ages ago?

 

Then after doing all that's in that video........

Windows 10 Tweaks and Fixes

Also, here is my Classic Shell Menu Settings XML file, import it in the Classic Shell settings, it is even better as my settings mimic the Windows 7 start menu a LOT: http://www.mediafire.com/file/dsu9lz5a7sl8qn2/Menu_Settings.xml

Be smart....be like Phoenix.......

 

Hey All,

I hope not to derail a conversation. I'm really thinking of buying this machine (6700 with a 1060). I think I have done as much research as a human can do about this thing, but I do want to ask a few questions of the owners. I hope that's ok.

I'm basically trying to decide between the p650 and p950 (both with the 1060). I move the machine around a lot, and do travel. I do game, but more rarely. However, what I really want to ask about is the build quality differences (if they exist). I know people say that the lid on the p650 is a bit flimsy, but is it so bad that people actually worry about it when putting the machine in a bag? Do you guys find it an issue?

Also, is the weight difference between these two machines substantial?

Any help would be hugely appreciated.

Thanks!

 

EDIT: Wrong thread

 

I've placed an order for a P650HP-G from Avadirect about a week ago. I got the IPS display version, i7-7700HQ, 1060 6GB. I have been building my own PCs since I was first enrolled in university courses in 1996 after military service, with Windows 3.1 and hardware that as often as not conflicted somehow and predating plug and play, although for several years it earned the nickname of the time anyway 'plug and pray.'
I say that because I know what I need in a computer, and I know what I want, too, and I prefer to make my own decision as to where in between my computer lies. I made a huge mistake a few years ago when I assumed that notebooks couldn't be custom made, and I bought an HP laptop that turned out to be impossible to upgrade past a modest RAM upgrade and switching out the HDD for SSD. I'm now working towards a bachelors degree in CIS and my old laptop is on its deathbed. I don't do extensive gaming but I do play old favorites and the occasional new game in the market. Not knowing for sure whether I might have a need for graphics in my work I found the 1060 more than adequate. I chose a 256GB evo 960 for OS and room for tools needed for work before doing the research that proved it lacking a real world advantage over the SATA alternative, but it isn't a big deal to me at this time I think. I also have a 1TB crucial SATA in the new machine.
I decided on the 16GB HyperX Impact DDR4 2400MHz, CL14 because it leaves 3 slots for upgrading when it becomes and advantage to do so and because I think that for my overall use latency is the more important factor than memory speed. I went with the Killer WiFi and bluetooth card just due to years of terrible experience with the Intel card in my HP. Hopefully the folks over at Killer Networking care more about their products and drivers (a great deal more) than their counterparts at Intel. Even if that isn't the case, I feel good about a little boycott because this damn Intel Wifi card still isn't working right after a clean install of Win10Pro and driver update.
Just my way of introducing myself here and to say that I am really excited to get my hands on the new machine as well as being excited to be a part of the community here at the Clevo/Sager section of notebookreview.com forums.

 

Welcome to the new owner club!

 

To be fair the intel cards have got better but I hope you enjoy your system

 

I've read or at least skimmed through all of the posts in this thread now (it only took me a week, between classes and assignments lol) and have a few issues I'd appreciate advice on.

I'm installing my own OS because my university provides Windows 10 Education license to us, which is a form of Enterprise I believe. This means I am going to be updating my drivers personally, too. I was an engineer in the Navy, nuclear power school and all that. I was a senior chemistry student when I took a break, upon returning to studies recently I decided to change majors to CIS. I want to fix any machine that is broken, and upgrade those that aren't, it's just how I'm made. I really do not care about the product warranty at all. There is no way that I will ever send it back to be repaired, because I can do it right myself and what's more, I like doing it. I even change my own oil in my car, seriously I am helpless in this way.

Would it be helpful or better to get the Obsidian software? I am not an expert in all things computer at this point, though I am working on that. It sometimes takes me awhile to figure out the problem, and I tend to put too much time into looking for the problem and solving it when it would be easier to delete and reinstall. Maybe Avadirect has their own resource for this. My computer hasn't even been assembled yet and I've had little direct contact with them at this point. I don't even know if they have a company rep here on the forums, though I tried searching to find out. I also asked their customer service if there was a rep here just a few minutes ago. I thought at first that I would go with the Obsidian tools, but if there is an option with Avadirect I will consider it first. It might save a lot of time to automate driver issues, that's what I was thinking with Obsidian. If so, it would be worth the price of buying their software. From reading the forums, it looks like their tool has been very well done and that it works right the first time, almost every time. Since I don't even have the computer built and on its way by mail at this point, that is probably going to just about cover it for now

 

You can if you like, the basic driver set and then keeping your GPU drivers up to date will pretty much get you there.

 

Yes, that is true. I knew writing it that I was being a bit unfair because the Wifi card in my HP was the bargain basement one too. Still, I expect that they would at least put out a driver that reliably worked, and they did not. I have done extensive research on it over the past 2-3 years and have seen a lot of people with the same problem, a few people who thought they fixed it (but that was often unrepeatable by others), and most people who were stuck with a product that couldn't do the job of connecting to their router. It's the 7260 AC and believe me I have tried everything. No need to get into the process I guess, it stays connected now *most* of the time and I have the awesome by comparison replacement being put together right now. If I am not mistaken there is a further issue with some manufacturers like HP getting a different version of the 7260 AC as well. I don't feel like going back to do the research again to find out for sure though, so I shouldn't say more than that.

 

Thanks, I think I'll install Windows first, and see how things work before trying anything further. What you're saying makes sense, I bet it's HP and not Intel that caused my wireless adapter problems now that I think of it.

 

There have been a couple of not so great chips from intel the in the past so it depends on which one. Another thing that can happen is one channel dies and then it works but is never fast or stable after that.

 

For what it is worth, I ordered mine with the Intel AC card and have had absolutely no issues with it. My previous laptop, an HP DV7, did not get the throughput or dependability on the same network as this new one does. Having said that, I had a friend buy a unit with the killer option and it also works well for him. I think one would be served well with either of the current Wi-Fi options.

 

Weird, this morning as I turned on the laptop Control Center was not showing up anymore, thus all the functionalities related are disabled (impossible to set keyboard illumination, screen brightness and so on). Similarly, SBX icon is not showing, thus sound functions are down too.

The program is shown as "not available" in the windows apps and functionalities setting menu. Restarting the Pc does not do anything.

I will try and investigate this afternoon, but any clue on how this could happen?

 

Reinstall the CCC through Obsidian's driver update program, and that should do the trick. What happened to you is very similar to ending the CCC process, though I'm not sure how it's related to the SBX.
If that doesn't work you could try a system restore, if you have one saved.

 

Hi guys. I have a P65HS-G (EVOC) from HID. So far I love it. Great build and plays everything just fine. However, I have noticed since day one that the USB C ports don't work quite right. At first I thought it was my USB 3.1 hub. Then I tried a different hub and same problem. I would get constant disconnects and errors (from my mouse, keyboard, etc). I eventually switched to the USB 3 (type A) port and everything has been great. I can't help feel that I am being robbed of two USB ports though.

Tonight I got a new Google pixel XL and tried to use it with the USB C port and, just like before, I would get data errors when transferring files. When I switched to the USB 3 ports, no problem. I'm running Windows 10 and have tried both the MS USB drivers as well as the Intel version. It makes no difference.

Is anyone else having this problem? Is it worthy of an RMA or perhaps a software/BIOS fix?

Thanks for reading!

 

Awesome, thanks!

 

Would it be possible to just use your Bloatware free edition of Windows 10 and save some time?

 

O/T:
Yeah, the 7260AC is a bit infamous, but at least on my end (a frankenstein'd TravelMate P643M-G that I've been itching to replace) it's been rock-solid for the past 6 months with uAPSD disabled and the latest-ish official Intel driver (18.33.7.2).
On-topic:
Does anyone know what is the generic thermal paste used by PCSpecialist (et al.) in the P650HS-G and how it stacks against the "classic" MX4 or the newer Kryonaut? I'm checking, because I may have to order one from Amazon or somesuch while I'm still in Germany as grabbing one in the old country is a waste of money (think 200% markup on the cheap stuff, more on the higher end )?

 

Clevo applies a standard paste to their heatsinks so all standard paste is that. It's reasonable but an application by yourself of something like the thermal grizzly paste you mentioned would be better.

 

I repasted with grizzly the day I got my laptop. Gpu temps have been fine. The Cpu idled at about 35 C after the repaste. A few days later, the Cpu was idling at 45 C, and was creeping towards 50 C. I re-repasted the Cpu yesterday again with grizzly. It was fine for a day, but It's creeping up again today. I am in Ohio, and the room temp is about 23-24 C. I have repasted several laptops in the past with no problem. Has anyone else experienced this, or does anyone have any advice? I am not gaming, I am running solidworks which is very Cpu dependant.

 

Did you check the screws were fully tightened and did it appear looser when doing the repaste?

 

I tightened the screws as tight as they go both times. I used the spread method when I pasted.

 

You pre-spread it? That could have introduced air bubbles which could impact performance.

 

Does anyone know where can I purchase the CPU fan used on the P650HP6? Mine has been whistling like MAD, I've sprayed it with compressed air, cleaned it. It's got this whiny pitch it's absolutely horrid.

 

Your reseller or a local reseller should be able to sort you out.

 

Just ordered my P650HP6-G from Obsidian-PC

 

Hello guys,

I have a little problem with games in general. I own the GTX1060 60hz non-GSync version of the notebook, and it turns out the GPU is overpowered for some of my games.

Games like World Of Tanks and CS:GO have noticeable screen tearing which makes it unplayable ; but so far my only option now is to turn on V-Sync which creates an also very noticeable input-lag, that is really annoying to play with, considering those games often rely on quick reactions.

Is there any way to limit the fps output to 60fps (thus avoiding screen tearing) without having to use V-Sync (thus without additionnal input lag) ? So far I am at the point where I simply cannot play either of those games on my laptop, because either I cannot react fast enough, or the screen tearing makes it feel like I'm playing with 30fps. It's a shame that having a GPU too powerful is a real issue, I am unable to play two of my favorite games because my specs are too good for them, while still not being quite good enough for some other games.

 

You can use Nvidia Profile Inspector to limit the FPS globally or for individual games. Download it and find this setting:

 

The official nvidia tech is whisper mode. It will change the clocks and save power too.

 

In csgo, you can type this command in the console (where XX is the fps value you want)

Code:

fps_max XX

If you don't know how to open the console, check this out.


This ingame command actually has less input lag than using nvidia inspector. This guy did some testing and proved that using nvidia inspector gives almost as much input lag as vsync (check at 2:36)




And btw the best way to have minimum screen tearing without vsync is to set the fps limit at a very high fps (like >180 fps). Setting fps limit to 60 without any sync will give you a lot of screen tearing. This same guy did some testing on a 60Hz screen in below video and you can see all the results (check at 12:11 for all sync disabled)



As for World of Tank, I haven't played it but there should be an fps limiter according to pcgamingwiki.

 

Hey guys, I am very interested on the Gsync and Optimus coexisting in the same machine. How do you switch from igpu to dgpu to choose from gsync or optimus? what is the batttery life using gsync and using optimus?

Cheers

 

You can switch either in BIOS or through the Control Center software, it is really easy but needs a reboot.

As for battery life, I do have around 2h30 on dgpu and 5h ish on igpu (1070 and 7820hk, 32gb ram ssd and hdd plus 120hz config)

Envoyé de mon LG-H870DS en utilisant Tapatalk

 

Thanks man, those are really good battery life numbers... as per the reboot, that is fine for me to have the best of both worlds... Lets just hope they improve it in the future to let us switch on the fly or even do it in the background... Congrats for the laptop
Cheers

 

It's the wiring since the Intel IGP is connected to the display in optimus the DGPU (and so nvidia) have no input on this.

 

I know that. thanks anyways... My hope is they (Nvidia, Intel and system integrators) improve on that system. cheers

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That would be letting intel into their tech... Not something Nvidia or Intel is overly known for.

 

So I just order a p650hs-g with a 256 gb m.2 ssd and 1tb 7200 rpm hdd.

I am replacing a 17" alienware that will not power on. It has a 256 gb pcie nvme ssd and a 1tb 7200 rpm drive. Of course the ssd is the boot drive with win 10.

First, physically, can the drives from the alienware be added to the p650hs and keep the new drives?

Second, how do I handle the two ssds both having win 10 system files? The nvme is much faster but it doesn't have the drivers for the p650hs. Initially I want to be able to recover data from the alienware drives, long term I would like the nvme ssd to become the boot drive.

Lot to ask for my first post, thanks for any help.

 

Today, there are 2 thickness sizes for laptop hdd; 7mm and 9.5mm. This laptop has 2 slots on top of each other. You can fit in this area any of these options:

• one 7mm laptop hdd
• two 7mm laptop hdd
• one 9.5mm laptop hdd

You can't fit one 9.5mm hdd and one 7mm hdd or both 9.5mm hdd. Usually 7200 rpm hdd are 9.5mm and 5400 rpm hdd are 7mm. There are 7200 rpm 7mm hdd but they are 500GB max. So both of your 1tb 7200rpm are 9.5mm. They can't fit both in the laptop. Your only option is to use one as an external hdd or drill a whole in the laptop's case .


For the ssd, there are 2 slots. Officially (as in resellers and clevo's site) these are your only choices:

• one sata m.2 ssd
• two sata m.2 ssd
• one nvme m.2 ssd

I am going to assume by the first m.2 ssd that you ordered with the laptop that it is a sata ssd. Two nvme m.2 ssd will not work because only m.2 slot 1 fits an nvme ssd.

But IIRC there was an old post (can't find it) where someone tested successfully one nvme m.2 ssd and one sata m.2 ssd but the speed is shared between the 2 slots. So if you are copying from one to the other you will have a huge slow down. I am not sure about this so you have to test it yourself to confirm it. Otherwise according to resellers, the 2nd slot will be disabled if you install an nvme ssd into m.2 slot 1.

For booting Win 10 from the nvme ssd, pretty sure it should boot normally. You'll have to install the drivers for the hardware that is changed and remove old drivers. Also, Win 10 will be deactivated as soon as you boot cz motherboard change. You'll have to reactivate it before using anything.

Legally speaking, you would need to buy a new license but you could always use the serial number from the other Win 10 preinstalled in your laptop and it should activate cz same hardware . Just be aware that dual booting win 10 with one license violates Microsoft EULA.

 

You can fit 1x 7mm and 1x 9.5mm drives.
I've an old SanDisk SSD and an old 1TB HDD plugged in without an issue

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Thank you, not what I wanted to hear but at least now I know where I stand. I have ordered external enclosures for the old 1tb hdd and the new m.2 ssd.

The p650hs is coming with win 10, installed on the ssd. So I will have two licenses. I'm thinking that upon receiving the laptop, I'll boot up and create an usb system disk. (Just in case) I'll remove the m.2 ssd, put it in the enclosure, then install the old nvme ssd into the new laptop. Can I set the bios to boot from usb with the ssd enclosure attached? If so, i can then move the data I want to recover off the now internal nvme ssd onto the internal hdd.

Once I have recovered the data, then I would like to make the nvme drive my new boot drive. What's the best way? Somehow mirror the m.2 ssd (now external) onto the nvme? Or just boot up from the internal nvme and try to install all the drivers? That seems pretty arduous of a task.

 

I guess you are right about this part. Clevo says in their site that you can use 1x 7mm and 1x 9.5mm. Most re-sellers for some reason don't allow us this configuration. Do the 2 drives touch each other by any chance?

Anyway @jdguay configuration doesn't work.

Win 10 license is not transferable between different PCs. The win 10 license in your alienware works only on that laptop. So you have one license (the one that will come with p650hs) you can use on the p650hs.

Booting from the external enclosure should work. Disk cloning should be the one with less headache and it's better to start fresh every once in a while.

 

Yeah the drives touch but doesn't exert pressure on each other.

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Prostar does offer a second drive in hdd bay after choosing a 7200rpm 1tb.
https://www.pro-star.com/p650hs-g.html

But I now notice none are 7200rpm, because of the thickness, I'm sure.

 

I have been looking for a laptop like this for a long time but only came across it last night. I looked back through the pages and saw it was selling cheap on debaro, is anyone else discounting it that is available to the UK with the UK keyboard? I never thought I would find a laptop that has dual hard drive bays and dual SSD bays (despite the limitations).

Any help would be greatly appreciated as it is the perfect form factor and ports for me.

 

What kind of price are you seeing?