*** Official Clevo P65xHS(-G), P65xHPx(-G) / Sager NP8155, NP8156, NP8157 Owner's Lounge ***

Lol newer is not always better for software

 

True, but it seems like Intel unified different editions, so not much had changed: "The v10.1.1.xx (for "normal" Intel Chipsets from 6-Series up) and v10.1.2.xx series (for 'Enterprise Edition' Chipsets like X99) were the versions of the 'Intel Chipset Device Software', before Intel unified them by releasing the new Chipset Device Software v10.1.17415.8036 Set in September 2017."

Edit: Come to think of it, that may actually be the reason for why it is incompatible...

 

Just opened my M514D aka P650HP6 after 8 months. Is it normal that there was so many dust on CPU fan and 2 TB disk ? There are so many weak connections on tape - weird. Is it possible to buy back cover for this laptop ? How much it cost

 

Hi. Sorry if this isn't the right forum but I feel like I'm in dire need of some assistance as I can't figure this one out myself.

I have a Clevo P651HS (GTX 1070) and 7700HQ Kaby lake. I bought it used 2 months ago and it's supposedly been in business for a little over a year. I do not think the previous owner repasted it.

What I have done:

• Undervolted -0.100 CPU, down to 0.900mv on GPU
• Dusted the internal parts ~2 months ago (due to be done again).

What I'm planning to do:

• Repaste the GPU and CPU with Phobya Extreme, one can be hopeful but I don't expect a yield above -5c after reapplying.
• Considering loading a custom bios to unlock the fan profiles, currently the fan reaches 80% maximum.

I have run several tests with different benchmarking tools and gotten different results. All with a low ambient room temperature around 17-20c with fans on maximum (read: 80%). And most of the tests where under 15 minutes long. The PC idles around 50c on the CPU and 40-45c on the GPU.

• Aida64 -

With GPU: GPU reaching 85c and CPU cores 95, 95, 93 and 96c. CPU throttles.

Without GPU: Cores now reach 83, 78, 82 and 78c.

• XTU - Temps running stable around 75c across the board.
  
  
• Assassins Creed 4: Black flag - GPU reaches 85c and the CPU 75-80c.
  
  
• Witcher 3 - GPU stabilizes on 90c and the CPU can peak around 95-97c.
  
  
• Sniper Elite 4 - GPU 90c and CPU 85C.
  
  
• Prime95 Small FFT - Temperatures reaching 77-72c across the cores, stable ~2 degrees lower.
  
  
• A small session of PUBG on medium settings ran at decent temperatures, with 60-70 degrees on both the cpu and gpu.
• Dark souls 3, 90c GPU and a spike of 97 on the CPU.

So the PC can run quite hot in some applications.

So my question is, is there anything more I can do aside from what I have already planned? Could it be a software/driver/settings issue?
I've read something about thermal pads, but I'm pretty new to those so I don't know if they should be replaced or what size this laptop actually uses.

I know it's a laptop and I don't expect it to be able to go below 70-75 under heavy load, but somewhere close would have been nice. Mostly concerned about longevity as it is my first decent computer.

If there is any nessecary information I have left out, please point it out. Thanks in advance!

 

If those temps are right, assuming everything else is OK, you ought to see a serious enough improvement over those GPU temps with a decent repaste job - hell, at the moment I'm checking out the new areas in The Division + streaming movies for the kiddos with Plex(with hardware transcoding) and I'm seeing max temps of 65*C (CPU) and 69*C (GPU) with the room temp at 23*C, with the laptop resting on a coffee table. From looking at what you've already done, the next logical step is to repaste - I personally did it with the TG Kryonaut and if that doesn't help, then I don't know what will... Btw, you may want to try to undervolt the bugger a bit more using ThrottleStop(and while you're at it - you may want to see if SpeedShift will help out as well)
Ah - btw, do you have the 7700HQ or the 7820HK?


Edit: To all - quick question,guys - according to specs on the NVIDIA website the 1070's boost clock goes to 1645MHz, yet I'm seeing it hit and maintain 1835... So, my question is - did Clevo factory overclock the 1070, does the GPU overclock itself beyond the boost clock if conditions allow it or is just GPU-Z reading those frequencies wrong?

 

I'm running the 7700HQ. I won't be able to repaste it for another week and right now I'm so hung up on those temps.. They are not healthy for the machine.

I also have the same frequencies as you on the GPU.

 

Ok, I asked because the 7820's been known to run hot (hot enough, to make it perform on 7700-levels, but at a price premium). In that case, a repaste is definitely the way to go, but in the meantime you can mitigate things by grabbing throttlestop to try and achieve a better undervolt (CPU + Cache, not sure if there's any real point in doing the IGP) and to enable SpeedShift, which according to the totally unecdotal evidence of asking people around the office shaves a couple of degrees as well...Ah,you might want to lift the back of the laptop as well - even a couple of centimeters help and finally - when gaming - Fn+1 to run the fan at full bore (as opposed to the 80% in automatic mode) . Ah, a quick suggestion for when you open the bugger to repaste - take the time to also apply thermal pads to any m2 drives (and 2.5'' ones for that matter) so they can use the laptop's backplate as a heatsink as it does wonders for thermal management (or at least it does for me,lol)

Edit: Found an answer to my question on the forums over at Tom's hardware - apparently, the Boost clock isn't actually the ceiling to a card's performance and a card can and will surpass it depending on voltage/load/temperatures/your soul's pureness:

 

Yes, the exact boost clocks will depend on the silicon lottery and the maximum power/cooling threshold specified in the vBIOS.

 

So I did some more digging and in nvidia inspector my GPU temperature limit is set to 91C, and I can't move it down.. Google doesn't really gives me any answers on how to lower it either.

Any takers? It would be nice to at least force the gpu to throttle some while I wait for the thermal paste to arrive so I can check if the pasting job is bad before I send it in for possible repair..

And what thickness thermal pads fits this chassis?

 

If you're careful - you won't need to replace the stock thermal pads themselves on the cooling system (I think they're 1.5mm though, but I'm not 100% sure) - as for throttling the CPU and GPU - you can try to underclock the GPU using either the bundled OC app (you can shave up to 200Mhz) or MSI Afterburner (-400MHz) and you can disable the CPU Turbo Boost through Throttle Stop.

 

Yeah I have already done that, but it doesn't limit the temperature at all, just delays the peak for a minute or two. So I guess I'l have to park the PC until I get the paste..

And it seems I will have to tinker with the vbios if I want to actually set my own temperature limit.. Not really loving the clevo software solutions..

 

Your temps are high. Mine currently excluding undervolt/overclock,

Witcher3, high 1080p, 3h play, cpu 70-84C, gpu 60-70C, laptop cooler + fn+1

-------------------------------
@ALL Is space engineers a badly optimized game? Anyone experienced? Only game that increases cpu gpu temps to 90mark within 5min at ultra high for me.

 

As of yesterday my P650HS-G makes a weird beeping sound (you might want to turn up the volume a bit). The sound comes from an area right of the trackpad and left of the I/O (so that's close to the HDD right?). Beep sound isn't consistant. It appears (can also be during boot or reboot!) and out of the blue it dissapears. Any suggestions?

 

Check all the fans properly to make sure they are all spinning. Last time my laptop made a noise like that it was due to one of the gpu fans been blocked but then it shut down after so Hmm not too sure

Sent from my SM-G935F using Tapatalk

 

While gaming my GPU temps are in the upper 70s but not crossing 80s.
My CPU temps on the other hand are in the upper 80s and sometimes even cross 90c.
I have undervolted the CPU by -140 and that has made no effect on the temps. I plan to repaste it but the screws 12,11,10,9 are stripped and I would have to replace them if I open them (opening itself is a big problem).

In the meanwhile I have disabled Turbo Boost using XTU and now my CPU temps have dropped to upper 70s (same as GPU) and don't cross 80c mark.

Two questions:
1. Is disabling the Turbo Boost a problem?
2. Anyone knows what's the specification of screws 12,11,10,9 on the heatsink and how to open them if they are stripped?

 

Disabling boost would only lower performance if I'm not mistaken.

 

Seems it was just a sound to let me know a RAID1 HDD died (amen to RAID1!). Is it btw normal in such a case that it takes ages to boot?

 

It can do while it tries to communicate with a bad drive plugged in, remove it as it can start spitting out garbage onto the SATA bus and corrupt your data.

 

Most people do not know about this but SMART warnings can cause beeps.

 

Drives do tend to fail less often and not many people are running the raid setups that can run with a failure so I'm not surprised it's not too well known about.

 

Can someone please help me?

 

Disabling turbo boost is not a problem, only thing is you lose performance and maybe gain less heat in return

Disabling turbo means your CPU which is the 7700HQ runs at its 2.8ghz base frequency and not its boost frequency of 3.4(for all 4 core turbo), the leads to reduced performance but also less heat produced by the CPU and maybe perhaps more quieter operation.

As for the the screws am not too sure, you can try a slightly bigger/smaller screwdriver to help remove them or place a rubber bandinside that can act as a friction material to aid the screwing.

Also have a look at this for more info: https://www.ifixit.com/Guide/How+to+Remove+a+Stripped+Screw/13213#s45159

As for their exact sizes, dont know mate.

 

Going by the service manual diagram - they ought to be M2x4L (Part Nr 6-35-B1120-4RE). Still, it's best to confirm it once more with the laptop and the manual in this thread at hand. I do wonder how those got stripped, because even with "zealous" retightening mine look pristine (so .. perhaps bad part batch?)

 

They can be sensitive to screwdriver head size but yes that size sounds right from memory.

 

Thanks for your reply. I know the CPU performance would be reduced because of lower clocks.
What I am unsure of is whether it would affect my laptop's performance while gaming. So far while playing GTA 5 and Witcher 3 the temps have been below 80 and the FPS have been holding at above 60, so that's a good I guess. I am gonna continue the the turbo boost disabled until I re paste it.

I have tried a few things to take them out but nothing worked so far. I am waiting for the replacement screws now before I try anything more so I can replace them once they are out (hopefully)!

Yeah they were stripped since I got the laptop after sending it for repair. I just need to get the replacement screws before I open them now.

Thanks for the help guys! Really appreciate it. I have ordered some replacement screws. Will try to take out the stripped ones once I get them.

 

In terms of the CPU performance, how it affects games is dependent on how the game itself is. Some games are more CPU intensive while some are not where you can get a away with a lower end low power CPU.

Sent from my SM-G935F using Tapatalk

 

Horrible experiences like that is why I stopped using repair centres - my last one was a mobo swap for a Lenovo T420 a couple of years back, where they replaced one with a discrete GPU for one with just the onboard Intel one, which is bad enough... but I only sent it there to install a bleeping 3G module and the antena array for it. Funny how when I called them out on their BS, they "rechecked their records and discovered their error" XD
Btw, for the stripped screws there's two last-ditch methods to use if the rubber band method fails:
1. Contact glue like Loctite - if you're lucky, it'll hold long enough to unscrew the 4 screws
2. When everything else fails - with a drill GENTLY drill through just the screw's head, so you can slide off the heatsink assembly.. and then with pliers GENTLY unscrew the ... err.. screw..

@ALL: Happy New Year, guys!

 

How do you tell if for a particular game the CPU clock is less than ideal? Is FPS the only way?

Yeah they did a MOBO swap for me as well. MOBO wasn't the problem though. Only 1 out of the 4 is badly stripped, rest 3 are still opening with a normal screwdriver. I already tried a glue but it was taking too long to stick. Will try a different one maybe and then a screw extractor if that doesn't work.

Happy New Year everyone!

 

Figures I would post this here as well as our models are similar:

New 3dmark scores gotten after the tdp unlocking my gtx 1070. Highest clevo with the gtx 1070 in the rankings for both results

Fire-strike: https://www.3dmark.com/fs/14528630 (broke the 15k barrier)

Time-spy: https://www.3dmark.com/spy/3011603 (broke the 6k barrier)

 

You can tell by FPS yes but you can also tell by frame times and stuttering.

If your stuttering is worse with the lower cpu speed then you know your problem.

Though I would say run benchmarks and log the numbers to make sure it's just not a placebo effect you're having and that it actually affects performance.

Sent from my SM-G935F using Tapatalk

 

Is there any update to SA-00086 for Intel ME?

 

Doesn't appear to be one, but at this point, the Intel ME bug is the least of your problems... Depending on OS and workloads you'll see your shiny CPU lose up to 30% of its performance

Edit: @Meaker@Sager (and others), any news on a BIOS patch dropping from Clevo with the microcode update from Intel, or it's too early to tell? I'm asking, because there's already a fix dropping from Lenovo and Dell in the pipeline already...

Edit2: My bad - the fine folks over at Obsidian have released an Intel ME fix

 

Hello, I have a Clevo P650RSG!

With the following data:

I7 6700HQ
GTX1070 8GB
G-Sync
16GB Ram
500GB SSD

Now my problem, I have Windows 10 X64 installed and keep getting it when I start a game a bluescreen:

video tdr failure nvlddmkm.sys

I have already installed other drivers for the graphics card no improvement.

In addition, I have extremely FPS Drops!
In the game Rust up to 16 FPS and everything jerky. Temperature is 80 degrees maximum with CPU and GPU

And can someone tell me where I find the current drivers for the device and Clevo Control Center etc ..

Thank you

 

Hello,

I'm experiencing random BSODs - VIDEO_SCHEDULAR_INTERNAL_ERROR(119) on my NP8156 when running on discrete mode. This never happens on MSHybrid Mode and never when gaming on discrete mode (or atleast till now).

I ran a GeekBench GPU test and the scores were normal, so I don't think it's a hardware problem. My games run just as good as when I got the system.

I have already uninstalled and re-installed my graphics driver from Nvidia's website.

Any help is appreciated!

Thanks,
Harid.

 

Is Obsidian tools paid now? I downloaded the latest version and got this message.

 

There is a free license, just search the thread.

 

When I wake up my laptop from sleep mode after opening the lid, the keyboard will light up along with the rest of the laptop, however, the screen stays black, no matter trying to use movements from the mouse, keyboard, and touchpad to affect the display status. In order to temporarily fix this, I've had to hard shut down my laptop. Also, trying to put my laptop back into sleep mode when the display is off, doesn't affect it when I press the power button again to try to wake the screen. In other words, the exact same thing happens and continues to happen. It seems that since the display hasn't started, the keyboard doesn't have any influence as the sleep button (F12) and LCD button (F2) doesn't work and flexikey, for instance, doesn't initialize with my color profile (defaults to blue hue) amongst other things. This has happened to me on multiple occasions so I figured it was not an anomaly at this point. But, now every time I open my laptop lid from the sleep state its a matter of chance if the display reciprocates. In addition, at one point it said, "Display driver failed to start; Using Microsoft Basic Display Driver instead." In addition, would it be the Nvidia driver or the generic PnP monitor driver that is the cause of this? Would a solution be the power management tab of a certain driver and the checkboxes: "Allow this device to wake the computer" or "Allow the computer to turn off this device to save power"? I would assume the additional power options listed in system settings would not resolve the issue (power & sleep button and lid settings).
Anyone have any ideas?

 

Just updated P650HP6-G BIOS to

08.08.2017 13171991 P507_1060_2017_BIOS_1.05.06_xmg.zip
04.05.2017 73182 P507_1060_2017_EC_1.05.03_xmg.zip

https://repo.palkeo.com/clevo-mirror/P65xHPx/
https://www.mysn.de/driver/1_XMG/XMG_P507_P707_2017/BIOS/

Do You know when version 1.05.09 (Update ME F/W to 11.8.50.3425) will be available ?

 

7 weeks ago: http://forum.notebookreview.com/threads/important-security-update.811312/

 

So I eventually got my Phobya nanogrease extreme in the mail (yay 20 days of delivery time.), frankly I hadn't repasted more than once prior to this so I had a few attempts where I didn't really get decent results. I figure I applied too much thermal paste.

However I reopened it today and repasted, while there is likely more room for improvement (I think I applied a bit too much on the CPU) I was finally able to get a decent result.

For now I have tested:

Sniper elite 4 - CPU and GPU stabilizes around 85c

Witcher 3 - Similar to SE4. That's down from 100c on the CPU!

Fallout 4 - 79-80 on GPU and 81-82 on the CPU.

While not the "dream temps" others have around 65-75 under load, I'l consider myself satisfied for now knowing that I'm not completely frying my hardware.

 

Did you also make sure the fins were clean?

 

Yes I've cleaned them out with compressed air multiple times during the last week, the first time I opened up to repaste and again today. I suspect I drew one of the shorter straws in the heatsink lottery (which apparently is a thing I've read on this forum).

 

Or chip lottery, some are just hotter than others.

 

To anyone noticing hitches and stutters during game-play, try locking your card to a particular frequency and voltage point that lets it run below the power limit and without bumping into it.

Can I just say how MUCH this has improved game-play performance of my card, especially after unlocking my 1070 to full desktop power class.

Previously I kept bumping up to the power limit and constantly noticed hitches and bumps in game-play but was not sure where they were coming from. But ever since locking the frequency and making sure it doesn't bump up to the power limit, game-play has changed NIGHT and DAY. Now there are no more hitches or bumps and everything runs buttery smooth.

Clocks are stable and not jumping up and down anymore. To anyone noticing stutters and hitches during game-play, try out this sweet fix. Thanks @Falkentyne .

Now am locked at 1911mhz @0.9620v desktop grade performance in a 15inch notebook

 

Interesting, what did the clock graphs look like before and after you have done this?

 

What do you use to lock the voltages on the card? Also excuse my ignorance but what is the power limit / voltage for a 1070? Mine does do the hitching during gaming.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

My clock graphs where constantly up and down so they would switch frequencies so often because I was hitting the power limit.

So it would look something like 1968mhz~1911~1898~1987~2012~1936 and then after sometime when it was heated up enough to about 81C clocks drop a bit to about 1887~1866~1911~1847~1828~1869 and so on.

But the constant hitting of the power limit caused a bit of throttling and clocks just jumping up and down. This then lead to hitches and micro stutters in gameplay. Even afterburner frame times show this. Smoother frame times with locked clock speed.

I will post the graphs when I get home.

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Clock graphs before, Btw this is after an online match on COD WWII multiplayer TDM

 

Clock graphs after. Btw this is after an online match on COD WWII multiplayer TDM

 

The options for power and voltage for my 1070 are not adjustable for me any reason this may be?


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