*** Official Clevo P65xHS(-G), P65xHPx(-G) / Sager NP8155, NP8156, NP8157 Owner's Lounge ***

Question, what is the average under volt these systems seem to accept. .125? .140? or lower at .100mv?

I am curious so as to set a bar. I am at -.115mv and everything seems ok. I do get blue screens from time to time but they vary and are always different, from pointer BSODS to IRQ issues. Seems to be different every time.

What is the most prevalent BSOD you would get if your undervolt is too aggressive?

Thanks in advance

 

I run my system with Clevo 1510 (P65xHS-G) @-.1000 very stable and a lot cooler under heavy load, no throttling. On occasion (very rare) I do get BSOD's and always appear to be random causes. Never crashes while gaming though from what I recall it is when I wake the screen or when the computer has been running idle for a while and I tap the keys to do something, weird but probably has a definite cause.
I have not gotten to the point where I have found the need to analyze the crash dumps. You can check Windows "Event Viewer" may give you an idea of what is happening

 

I've tested up to -0.140 but not 100% stable. Currently running at -0.125 stable.

 

It's also good to share the VID you end up with during sustained load so people can see the final voltages you are running at.

 

My VID averages at 0.95v under AIDA64 stress test. Max 0.99v.

 

Not bad at all voltage wise.

 

Hello there,
I have talked to XMG about the bleed issue and it all came to a weird conclusion. From schenker support i was told that the issue is the panel and it can be replaced, just need to open RMA ticket. On Facebook chat with XMG however, I was told that all their models have bleed and that changing the IPS panel wont solve it. So I asked about the TN replacement, but they said that the whole barebone would need to be replaced for that. So I am basically stuck with an IPS panel that will always bleed, because I dont think they will replace whole chassis under warranty. Can @Meaker@Sager confirm that this is true please? Does the chassis of P650HP6 need to be replaced for a different screen or they just dont want me to replace it?

 

It comes down to the connector in question, with a 4k to 1080p then yes as I doubt they want to mess with the cable being replaced too.

For 1080p to 1080p then no.

 

Its 1080p both, one is ips 60hz and second one is tn 120hz, 15.6 inch both

 

120hz does need a different cable too, should have thought of that too. It uses the same as the 4k.

 

Oh well, too bad for me, I should have gone for the TN panel when I made the order. Thanks for info anyway.

 

Sounds like your are getting jerked around there is no way that light bleed is normal or acceptable, I remember the picture. Whoever you chatted with is just downplaying it.
I have no doubt that can be fixed or significantly minimized, it certainly couldn't get much worse

 

I would really like to get it fixed, but the guy I chatted with described it correctly, it all made sense. I know it is because of the pressure of the bezel, so the person I talked to through support basically lied to me when he said, that the problem is in the panel. So sending it back for replacement wont fix it, the bezel will be still pushing towards the screen creating bleed effect and getting a TN panel is apparently not possible, or wouldnt be covered under warranty which means I would need to pay a lot more. I can write to the support again, asking what is and what isnt covered under warranty and how much would it really cost, but my hopes arent really high. The 120hz panel cost 70€ more back then, now its 80€ more, so that would be fine. But if they have to change whole chassis and the cable mentioned by Meaker above, then it would be a lot lot more. So if they wont agree, I am stuck with the bleeding panel unfortunately. The confusing thing is that they are giving me contradictory information, so idk who to really trust.

 

It can be "minimized" to an extent, completely removed is almost impossible.
It all depends on what each re-seller defines as "acceptable", and what each user is willing to accept.

 

Thanks for your tips! One clarification: by standby you mean sleep mode?

 

Yes same thing. Basically sleep mode stores the computer state in RAM memory which needs constant power so when you lift the lid or press the power button (or keys on some systems) the other components that are still active can wake the computer pretty much immediately. You can have a laptop computer for days in that mode depending on the battery.
Hibernation stores the computer state to the hard drive which uses no power to maintain but depending on the hard drive you can have a very noticeable delay when starting up

 

I tend to disagree with that having a few IPS panels with zero light bleed.
After basically taking my lid apart and re-seating the panel on my Clevo 1510 it is essentially a non issue now, does it still have a bit yes. Could I get rid of it completely almost certainly but it is so minimal to not even be noticeable under most conditions I am not going to bother, I am about as picky as they come..

Can it be corrected in manufacturing, yes. But that would take time and money. Can it be fixed after the fact definitely but again..

 

I don´t get it, did you mean you "agree" with me?
Because what you said and did goes inline with my statement.

"It can be "minimized" to an extent, completely removed is almost impossible." - What you did proves this.

And about what a manufacturer finds acceptable and what a user accepts, that sentence is a fact. Nothing to agree or disagree.

Maybe what you want to reinforce is:
"I think it is the manufacturer job to supply a IPS panel mounted in a way that, like my panel, is close to zero bleed."
or
"I think re-sellers should either complain to manufacturers or correct the problem themselves."
or
"I think all panels should be close to zero bleed, or else it should be considered a factory defect."

If that´s your opinion i won´t say i disagree with any of it

 

There is also the fact that the chassis goes through shock and vibration testing and panels fit/finish are designed to survive that.

 

I agree most people are willing to accept a bit of light bleed especially when they are told by both manufacturer and reseller that it is normal and not a panel defect which technically it is not, it's an manufacturing assembly compromise.

What I disagree with is that it cannot be eliminated completely which I know from the laptop I own to not be the case. I chose not to put anymore time into it taking it apart etc. since I find it acceptable for the purpose I use the unit for.

I also know from other quality IPS type panels I own straight out of the box which have zero light bleed issues it is entirely possible to manufacture one without it.

I do not know the warranty policy regarding this problem but I am sure the reseller or manufacturer could and probably would go back to "it is not considered a defect"

My advice to anyone with this problem if it bothers you return it while you can, under warranty it will be an entirely different situation

 

Question about light bleed.

Can you just apply pressure to the outer edges to get it to subside?

 

On mine it was pressure from the bezel that was causing the problem, really though it is the way the panel is seated.
The front bezel is just a cover that snaps in place you can remove it completely (along with the panel) if you needed and make any necessary adjustments, I started from the bottom with my fingernail.

 

Hey guys, I'm having some trouble with the keyboard backlighting and was wondering if anyone had something similar or any ideas as to what the problem is.

https://imgur.com/a/5D51F33

So it looks like all the blue LEDs are really dim, while the reds and greens are perfectly ok and bright (in the picture I set the two side zones to blue, and the middle to yellow).

Some Stuff I tried:
-changing the keyboard brightness to the first level (it gets even dimmer) and then changing it back to maximum(a little brighter, but still way dimmer than all the other colors)
-turning my computer off and then on again
-Reinstalling Control Center version 5.0001.1.05 (the blue is dim even without the control center installed)
-Reinstalling windows
-Unplugging the battery and holding the power button for a minute, then plugging the battery back in
-GENTLY popping out the keyboard and unplugging and replugging the keyboard connectors (all three)

I thought it was a faulty led issue, but i didnt think they would all be affected, which makes me think its either software or maybe a problem with the keyboard. Any ideas would be helpful! xD.

It's a Sager np8155

Edit:
Also, I googled about this, but there doesn't seem to much, aside for some cool youtube videos of fancy light shows

 

... for what it's worth I'm having the same issue, with blue specifically. Mine's a PC Specialist Defiance III (Clevo P650HS). Started recently and I've tried several different Control Centre builds but no change. Red, and Green are fine - just not blue!

 

It could be a hardware issue if it's happening separate to software versions.

 

YA sounds exactly like what's happening to me

It's a pretty minor thing so i wont worry about it too much, but would a fix be to just replace the keyboard part?

 

Does anyone know if @Prema has completed his awesome Bios for the 650HS-G systems? I cannot pm him for some reason or I would ask him myself. Thanks all!!

 

@Sandwhale did You manage to replace lsd to AUO B156HTN05.2 120Hz ?
Is there possibility to buy lcd LG LP156WF6-SPB1 (what cost) ? Or there is needed worse replacemant

How much cost botom cover Bottom Case (D Cover) - P650HP6-G6-39-P65P3-013 (about 100$ ? )

 

x post from the equivalent thread, but I wanted to post this here in case anyone had suffered similar issues.

"
Sigh,
hey everyone. So it's been roughly about a year since I bought the p650RS-G model and I've honestly had nothing but problems with it.

It's fine 100% of the time if I'm not gaming, but as soon I start playing games this thing goes to **** unfortunately. I'm guessing it has to do with higher end games because something like PUBG, fortnite, Path Of Exile will crash, it's just a matter of when. And all it does is hard crash my system, not a BSOD, and it gives no good error code that I can debug.

It's event 41, task category 63, "The system has rebooted without cleanly shutting down first. This error could be caused if the system stopped responding, crashed, or lost power unexpectedly."

I've tried pretty tried much every solution on here, undervolting, reinstalling windows, reverting to previous drivers, I even have the latest BIOS and EC from my reseller and all this does not fix my problems. Is it finally time to just RMA this thing. It's given me so much headache it's not worth the trouble anymore.

On a side note, the crash is basically the laptop hard crashes and a looping sound goes on FULL blast basically destroying my ear if I wear headphones/earphones, so I basically have no idea when it will happen.

I think I should probably just RMA."

 

So I have been trying to get my Celvo opened to to fix some issues (CPU temps started going high again after they got fixed by PCSpecialist and the keyboard doesn't seem to fit well causing some flex). But, it seems like the bottom cover and keyboard are resisting any attempts to open it up. Does anyone have any tips on what I have to do to fix these issues and actually manage to open the system up? I'm too worried that I will bend something.

 

Also my panel suffered from some light bleed (not very noticeable unless you look for it in most cases, but a tad annoying) and I have been wondering what sort of level of light bleed is normal and if it is fixable. I'm considering returning for another fix, but I'm not sure if it is worth the bother (having no machine for one/two weeks is a pain).

 

Had the same exact problem that got fixed after I replaced the keyboard because foolish me broke the control key, so I'm betting that it is a hardware problem as well.

 

Has anyone used the Obsidian-Tools to update the BIOS?

I've updated the bios of my desktop a couple of times but that was done with a USB-pen... Is there anything else that I should do other than stated in the Obsidian-Tools (turn off anti-virus, ensure powerplug and select laptop model)?

 

It should be, if in doubt contact their support.

 

Yep confirmed - mine was out of warranty for parts but I bought a replacement keyboard and swapped it out - LED problem fixed. Good thing replacement was cheap, around £30.

 

And the keyboard is not riveted in either

 

yo wher did you buy the keyboard so cheap from i have the 17inch model and it has the same blue dimmed issue i thought it was software at first.
looking around i can only see the 17 inch keyboard and 15inch for £50+

 

Direct from PC Specialist as listed as a spare for my model.

 

Always worth asking your reseller

 

looks like the free license doesn't work anymore as it forces you to purchase

 

It has been almost a year since I got my np8156, been working great aside from having to endure high temps due to local weather. Sometimes I get fps drops due to high GPU temps. CPU does get hot too, but it doesn't affect fps loss that much.

I'm wondering if I should repaste. Can I repaste both the gpu and cpu?

 

Yeah and you'll notice an immediate drop in temperatures, especially when coupled with an undervolt - in my personal example, the 8157 (7700HQ+1070) was doing mid-70s during sustained sub-optimal gaming (no cooling mat, half the time propped in my lap in bed) during the heatwave in Germany this weekend. There are a couple of easy guides to follow on youtube on how to open the laptop and to repaste things successfully - just don't cheap out on the thermal paste and get something like the Kryonaut

 

I was wondering if anyone else is having issues with the black paint chipping off their key tops? Sager has already sent me on 'E' key top, and now my 'A' and 'D' tops are losing their paint.

 

Thanks man. Any recommendations for paste? Did you paste your gpu too?

 

IC diamond or thermal grizzly.

 

ICD got my thermals down by 5-8C as well. At high settings extended times at ambient 70F my temps are usually at 70-75C CPU/GPU. Only game it skyrockets to 90C easy is BF1@4k - crazy hot!

Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk

 

I personally use Thermal Grizzly Kryonaut as it strikes the best balance between performance, price and (for peace of mind) lack of electrical conductivity. The classics like MX4 also work, but with a machine like this the extra couple of degrees of the higher-end pastes you get out of the higher end stuff is rather welcome,lol I know people that went with liquid metal, but honestly - the difference really isn't worth the risks (as my wife's fried ROG can attest to XD)

 

Just had a "video_memory_management_internal" BSOD upon waking up my computer from the sleep state. According to BlueScreenView it seems like, the minidump points to "Filename + Address in Stack": "watchdog.sys +331e" & "dxgmms2.sys+18f2e". I also realized later on, that my laptop is a magician (Clark's 3rd Law) because it somehow switched from discrete state into mshybrid mode without my doing. Not only does it show that in Control Center, but the discrete light is off as well. I'll check BIOS in addition to confirm it.

Edit: After checking BIOS, same result all across the board - it definitely switched to MSHybrid.

 

Sounds like it did a bios reset.

 

Well, I had recently updated the BIOS successfully to the latest version of 1.05.14 RLS2. I still wonder as to why it would do a BIOS reset after the fact post-update.