*** Official Clevo P65xHS(-G), P65xHPx(-G) / Sager NP8155, NP8156, NP8157 Owner's Lounge ***

You would need to find a LTE module that works with this model. I bought one off AliExpresss which is used in Lenovo/HP laptops, and it didn't work. Apparently the module I picked is a PCI-Express based one where P650 requires a USB type module.

 

It's not really that hard thanks to Clevo being way better about after-market components than DELL and Lenovo (who whitelist parts like there's no tomorrow XD) with the biggest hurdle is the antenna array. If you're lucky (like me), the system shipped with it outta the factory, so then it's just a matter of finding an LTE module (covering the right signal bands for your location) and putting a SIM card into the slot beside the SD card reader. To be fair, with smartphones being way better these days, it's almost pointless as an endeavour, because you can get the same end result via USB/Wifi Hotspot mode on your phone, without having to worry about sourcing a second SIM on the same data plan and ... well.. cracking open your device

Cool, I didn't know of this limitation, but otoh I just newbied'd out and just ebay'd the same module (A Huawei ME936) on offer by the laptop vendor, only at like 1/3rd of the price and with spare antennae in the box for good measure. I've now ordered an EM7455 (Sierra Wireless/Qualcomm) which should also do the trick as its specs overview mentions it using USB2.0/3.0 signalling, but I'll probably only get to test it out come x-mas time


Edit: By the way, has anyone in here per chance heard/seen something about a refresh of the full-fat 650 chassis with the new 9-series CPUs and 2-series GPUs? I'd love (potentially) to upgrade to Turing and Coffee Lake, but I don't want to lose the 4-drive expandability of the 650HS

 

The PB series is the replacement to the 650.

 

Well that's unfortunate, because I'm one of those rare edge cases where the loss of a storage slot (I'm about maxed out on each slot and I'm considering trading up speed for space if something above 2TB on the m2 front and 4tb on the 2.5'' 860 Evo pops up) outweighs the extra horsepower of the RTX+8750H... Of course, it helps that you guys made a beast that holds up like a champ

 

The 9 series an md an external drive will take up about as much space

 

9-series and an ADDITIONAL external drive (I already have a pair already... as I said, edge case user here XD). Otoh, I think that I can get my boss to comp me for one, especially since I'll gladly certify his pressing need for one for his own (company policy is fun like that)... just like we did for the P51's awhile back... Or, alternatively, it's never too late (or early) to make yourself an X-mas present

Edit: If anyone is wondering, the AX200 works fine on this bugger, unlike the Netgear router my wife managed to brick earlier today

 

Hey Guys, I wanted to add another 16GB to my P650HS-G. I am pretty sure I have an available slot for it since its capable all the way up to 64GB. Any way of checking without opening up the chassis? Would you have any recommendations for a 16GB DDR4 2400MHz So-DIMM module that would work well with the stock module installed? Any particular resellers having good deals right now?

Also does anyone know what the current BIOS/EC is available for this model?

Thanks very much for the help!

 

Right, by order of questions (I'll be brief, because typing on a tablet is un-fun )
1. Pretty sure you've got two slots free (most vendors populate one or two of the four on-board)
2. Yes, quite easily - three quick examples that come to mind are CPU-Z/SPD (and look at Slot#1 to 4) or HWinfo64 (Memory Modules) or Task Manager / Performance / Memory (just beneath the graphs).
3. Unless you're planning on overclocking, just grab a Crucial or Corsair (or the like), whichever is cheaper this week AND has the same timings as your installed memory. It's no longer as horrible as earlier (when you absolutely had to match RAM sticks), but it's best to buy as similar components as possible. Also, check what is the speed on the installed memory, because if your vendor stuck 2133's inside, the price premium of the 2400 is pointles.
3.1 If overclocking, your best bet is to grab a full kit, because things get a bit too fun when overclocking dissimilar parts (same specs, different vendor).
4. Eh, you've got to check for yourself, because what is "a good deal" for me in Dublin may be a horrible deal for ya. As usual, Amazon and Newegg are your best bet
5. Personally running a somewhat outdated 1.05.11, (still newer than the .06 I originally had), but basically if your machine is running well, a BIOS update can be more trouble than it's worth.

 

Go raibh mile maith agat bk109 from a fellow DUB, now expat living stateside. I'll check out Amazon and Newegg like you mentioned. You are very helpful. Thanks again!

 

I've noticed that the fans ramp up like crazy the second I do the most minor thing likeopening chrome or starting a steam download. The second the cpu usage hits 20% it just goes like crazy. An help would be really appreciated.

 

What performance profile do you have in the clevo control centre?

 

I have a Prostar P650HP6-G. I have been fighting a CPU heat problem for about six months now. I had no problem for the first year or so. Suddenly the CPU temp went from sitting at about 34° at Idle to around 70° at idle. I have tried everything I can think of hoping it would make a difference. I have repeatedly repasted with either Kryonaut or MX4. I would have thought it was a bad paste job on my part, but I doubt I managed, like, consecutive 20 bad paste jobs on the CPU, but a perfectly good one on the GPU. The fan works fine, and the heatsink looks fine and seems to transfer heat. I keep both dust-free. I have throttlestop at an offset of -123 on both the core and cache which brings me down to about 45° on idle if I crank my fans all the way up, but under load I jump right up to the low 80° range. I'm using the discrete GPU, and the GPU sits around 32° on idle. Nothing seems to make a difference. I don't see anything weird or that stands out in task manager using my CPU or memory. I really don't want to do a fresh install of windows because I have a lot of software for work that would be a huge pain to re-install. I've successfully built at least 13 different computers for either work or gaming, and I've repaired or rebuilt several laptops, so I would say I'm generally pretty good at this, but I'm in over my head here. I've also tried my backup power brick just in case. Does anyone have any suggestions?

Should I but a new heatsink? If so, what's the deal with the heatsink that has been punched, or cut-out? I can't find a clear explanation.

 

Could be a damaged heatpipe, if you take it out and put the contact point in hot water you can feel if all the heatpipes are performing.

 

I'll try it. Thanks.

 

I tested a few different ways with hot water, and the heat pipes are definitely conducting heat directed on the contact plate. The contact plate does have a few thousandths bow to it, so I am going to grind it flat.

 

Note the pressure will warp the plate a little, you can judge flatness by the contact pattern left by paste when you remove the heatsink.

 

I got it flat to within a few tenths, repasted with Kryonaut, and found maybe a 2° difference. I bought a replacement heatsink for $60 shipped on e-bay, and it should arrive in a week or so, but I don't think the problem is the heatsink. I'll try a fresh windows install.

 

It would be a rather serious over voltage for such a temperature change.

 

Seems my iGPU doesn't want to change screen brightness again...

Version: 1903 / Built: 18362.356
Intel VGA: 26.20.100.7000

When using the GPU no problems at all. Is it just me or does someone else also has this problem?

 

Have you tried different intel driver versions?

 

Definitely not just you - personally I am experiencing intermittent flickering and artefacting on any iGPU driver above 25.20.100.6374 (from late last year), with a couple of the "approved" ones from the Obsidian Updater also having issues with the display brightness controls.

 

Does anyone know why KeyboardLED from OBSIDIAN-PC doesn't work with this model?

 

You may need to speak to john, different models do have different ECU/firmware.

 

it does work, but you need to install FanControl as well, it has a service that KeyboardLED needs in order to work. They said they are now working on an independent service for the KeyboardLED. Until then, you need to have FanControl installed, but no worries, you dont have to buy it. Just run it once and it will prompt you to install the service, then reboot and it should work.

 

hello guys, after a long time I am coming with another issue that I cant find a solution for. You might have probably heard about the headphone jack issue, when the sound doesnt work after sleep. I have been researching the problem and I have found some old solutions such as running InitHeadphones that is run by Hotkey from CCC. That unfortunately has no effect in my case. I am on newest windows build, fresh install and also I have recently flashed newest EC and BIOS. I have tried Microsofts sound driver, also realtek driver directly from manufacturers site (btw its an XMG P507 2017, or P651HP6-G). Currently I am using obsidians control center, since its more usable and I would like to stay away from CCC if possible. Did anyone encounter the same problem and managed to fix the issue?

 

I did a fresh install of Windows and I replaced my CPU cooler and temps are still high. It seems like it has to be a bios or firmware problem.

 

Or hardware causing it to over volt.

 

Any suggestions on how to figure that out?

 

Using a multimeter would be the only way to be sure.

 

Yeah, that makes sense, but I don't imagine there is a procedure to tell me what to touch with my multimeter and what voltages I should be seeing.

 

Usually you would find the power phase near it and probe the inductor, likely the one towards the fan in this case.

The other option is to put a small heatsink on it or a pad shim pad sandwich to the case.

 

Hello everyone, is there a way to set up 2 SSD on SATA to use them as a storage in a NON-RAID mode?

 

Not only you can, but that's basically the default setup for multiple drives regardless if you're using the m2 slots or 2.5'' ones - each drive is on its own and you use as is (with the added benefit of potentially going for a software RAID from inside your OS down the line). Hell, even if your vendor is one from those rare birds that actually sell the machine as RAID-ready (so with Intel's RAID solution enabled by default) you can add in extra drives and use them as standalones outside of an array.

 

Raid mode is a little slower but simply allows the system to combine drives, as above you don't have to have any raid sets technically.

 

Eh, "A Little Slower" is a bit misleading After all, while, yes, it is in fact slower than the individual drives' speeds, depending on the array, you'll be getting a combined speed of way faster than a SATA drive... That said, for most people, you get the same benefit from within windows via software RAID (ie disk stripping). Honestly, I'm not entirely sure I'd recommend Intel's RAID solution for most people (as it can bork one's install), but for edge cases where you use several different OS', it's a godsend as it's platform/OS agnostic

 

It's slower as in slower to boot as it has to initialise the raid controller.

 

Ah, sorry for my mistake, I assumed (in the array vs JBOD context) that it was device speed and not, well... Intel RAID controller-induced lag (though, tbh, I haven't really noticed it on my machine). I stand duly corrected

 

There is a small delay caused by raid which you can see in pc perspectives articles so a single drive capable of saturating the bus is technically faster but at that point it is impossible to notice.

 

Do I have to purchase FanControl?

 

He did write that you don't have to buy it, so... Let's call that a "Probably not"

 

Hey there again, so the bug still persists. It is only the case with the optical s/pdif connector, the other two work fine (except for being lower on volume). When the pc is waken up from sleep, it no longer works and only restarting the whole system fixes it, so I believe its some kind of a software problem. Anyone who could help please?

 

The strange thing is that in bios I can only see one of them (the one closer when notebook is opened). Both 2.5 Sata standart 7.0mm. Sometimes SSD mounts for awhile and then disappears again. With RST option enabled it is the same.

 

That's definitely odd, have you tried swapping the drives to see if it's drive-related or port related, because it can be either and if you're lucky, it may be the latter, but only because there's something intermittently causing the drive to stop working. That said, this sort of behaviour reminds me of an old OCZ Vertex (and a Seagate hybrid drive for that matter) of mine that intermittently froze or failed to initialize at POST, before it eventually died completely..

 

The problem is with ports definitely, I have tried swapping and leaving only one ssd. It is the same port every time. I have no idea how and what to diagnose now. Is there a chance that Obsidian Bios might help?

 

Check that the connector is not wobly and the soldered connections look good.

 

Might as well also spray some electrical contact cleaner there too, because this could also be some sort of surface corrosion that intermitently screws up the connection

 

That's not a bad call on cleaning the contacts.

 

A little late, but I hope this helps. Have you tried Obsidian-PC's Control Station? John has a headphone fix that fixes the exact problem you are speaking of, including post-wake-up by hibernate and sleep mode. In my case prior to the fix, unplugging my optical s/pdif connector/analog headphones cable and replugging it works, or restarting can also work, but is unnecessary. However, Control Station resets it automatically for you upon waking up from either aforesaid mode once you check it off under Windows Tuning tab's Optional list. Other things to take into consideration: You should set the Realtek Audio Console's Power Management to Off. Also, if you have fuzzy audio, under Realtek Digital Output set the Default Format to 192000 Hz 24 Bits for sample rate and bit depth.
Here is a link to Control Station by Obsidian-PC:
http://forum.notebookreview.com/thr...-by-obsidian-pc.801464/page-248#post-10789828

 

Hello and thank you a lot for your response. However, I am aware of obsidians control center and have been using it for a year or so. I also know about the headphone fix in the windows tuning and have already tried it. I was thinking I had a bad audio driver, but I tried more of them and still no difference. You also mentioned realtek audio console and so I have searched for it, but it wasnt a part of any driver that I have installed. I would like to mention that a headphone fix exists for linux systems, I have installed it on ubuntu and I confirm that it fixes the issue. Only OS that doesnt work (probably not surprising) is windows.

 

In the Microsoft Store, both Realtek and Creative have released Windows apps that work with the corresponding audio driver: Realtek Audio Console and Sound Blaster Connect. Also, when you download the audio driver from Updater it should come included with those two apps. Have you tried NP8157's (P650HS) audio driver - version 6.0.1.8591?