*** Official Clevo P65xHS(-G), P65xHPx(-G) / Sager NP8155, NP8156, NP8157 Owner's Lounge ***

The fans are designed to last a decent length of time, so mostly it's the people around you.

 

So the wear and tear is minimal for these small fans for extended high fan speed use?

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It's easier to make the smaller fans last longer but yes they are designed to last under those conditions.

 

SAGER NP8157 / Clevo P650HS-G owners:

Anyone try out the USB Type-C ports? I've been testing it, but I am getting some weird results. I just bought an external USB enclusre (USB 3.1 Type-C) and inserted 1TB Samsung 840 EVO drive. into it. I have a Typce-C to USB 3.0 cable, as well as Type-C to Type-C (USB 3.1).

When I use the USB 3.0 cable (typce c to USB 3.0), I get typical USB 3.0 speed as expected. Avg 320 MB/s. But when I use the Type-C port, I am getting ridiculously slow speeds, similar to USB 2.0 speed. I've installed all the latest drivers from Sager site, and running windows 10 Pro.

Anyone try type-c port to confirm it's working? Is there another driver somewhere I can try? Any help would be greatly appreciated.

Thank you.


********* False alarm ********
It was bad cable. Type C ports are working great.

 

Depressing to hear. I still havent got around using 3.1 ports due to the dearth of devices in the market.

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My bad... It was a bad cable. I just used the good cable which came with the enclosure (Satechi) and I can confirm that both USB-C ports are working fine. getting avg 400MB / s transfer speeds.

 

Phew

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Comments on the quality of the 4k PLS Samsung panel offered by HID? Is is real 4k or fake 4k?

 

Fred Richardson in the p650RS thread has a 4k display. You can pm him.

Ive heard its a nice display with some quirks like banding etc. (each display has its own issues). It is pentile screen. Probably technical details Meaker can provide from datasheet. Response times are slower due to PLS. However 4k on a 15.6 is overkill. I prefer 27' or above for 4k.

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Always worth checking, it can also be a controller issue in the external enclosure if anyone else has this issue.

 

I have the exact same problem. I tried the original Control Center in the CD and Obsidian (both same version). Same issue. The issue might have been since I purchased the laptop. I have never noticed. I was messing around with undervolting in BIOS and I thought I messed up the system.

Looking back at this thread's history, It is a common issue. I guess I am relieved. I couldn't care less if Control Center isn't working.

Why is everyone using ThrottleStop to undervolt? Is there a disadvantage to using the BIOS undervolt? I would like to dual boot Ubuntu. The BIOS undervolt is the only way for it to work there.

 

Mine stock Clevo Bios for example does not have any undervolt option. Seems like your reseller offers his own (patched) Bios.

 

Could you send me a copy of your bios because mine doesn't have that option.

 

Edit: Nevermind Ignore what I just wrote. You can't undervolt from the BIOS. The default Clevo Control Center without SupportXTUFanTable disabled (OBSIDION disables it). If you attempt to undervolt with it, the voltage offset in BIOS will INCREASE. I am not sure if that is safe.

I guess I will have to stick to throttlestop until Prema Bios.

 

Anyone with this laptop know if the function keys, for the keyboard backlight, work without the Clevo/Sagar control software installed?

 

It doesn't work.

 

Hey sorry for asking but im having the same issue and im going creazy to fix it, my problem is that i cant install nvidia driver and the hd, one time i manage to do it but had the problem with control center.

Let me know how u did it

Enviado desde mi SM-G930F mediante Tapatalk

 

Your problem seems to be different to the one i had. I could install the NVIDIA drivers fine. Only the Intel driver did not install (...not the minumum requirements...) but that was gone after i installed the latest version with the obsidian Tool. Also my MSHybrid/Discrete BUG in the Clevo Control Center (CCC) was gone after installing the latest version.

**edit**
Clevo has added new Intel + NVIDIA + Touchpad + CCC drivers for P65xHPx(-G) on 03/01 2017 Maybe these version work fine (i have not not checked them yet) - but it seems only the ASIA Mirror is working at the moment and its very slow <25KBit/s

 

@Meaker@Sager : Is there USB 3.1 driver? My USB host controller under device manager only shows USB 3.0. This does have me worried a bit here..

 

have a look here, i have had installed the modded drivers via VNC or Teamviewer a several times on other laptops (because USB will not work during installation), but in our laptop the touchpad+keyboard seems to work. Maybe because its just PS2 based?

 

Clevo p650HP6-G has gotten clevo control center update twice and many other updates in Clevo's website. Clevo P650HS-G has not gotten a single update since 2017-1-12. I am thinking of just downloading the control center from p650HP6-G​

 

I would not do that.
You should use the CC for each model.

 

I used to have a 2011 HP laptop. I got all drivers working in Windows 10 by downloading stuff for other HP laptops. They had generic drivers that work on every model. But don't bother updating the download page of older models past release or critical update.

Clevo Control Center 5.0001.1.05 is the exact same for both models without any change in installation files. The 2 models only have a different graphic card. If you look at P650RS6 and P650RP6, they didn't bother updating after 5.0001.0.98.

The cpu.ini file contains parameters for as old as intel 4th gen. IMO, they just make a generic version that works on everything. They don't have the time to produce exclusive version. They just don't update the older download pages like other brands. Just to be safe I am going to send them an email.

 

Somebody tried the following simultaneously and it worked:

1x NVME m.2 ssd
1x m.2 sata ssd
2x sata ssd

You can find him here:



My own NP8157 has the following disk config:

1x m.2 sata ssd 256gb samsung 850 evo BOOT
1x m.2 sata ssd 500gb samsung 850 evo
2x sata ssd 500gb samsung 850 evo

I run the 3 500gb 850 evo in raid 0, contains games and apps.

BTW, what are your long term GPU and CPU temps under battlefield 1 ?

 

Control Center does a lot more than it looks like, it´s not actually a driver in the common sense, since there is no CC specific device.
Remember that it does communication with hardware layers at some level, guess it installs some filter/service for it.
It also does stuff like Headphone jack enable after PC Resume and other functions after PC Resume.
The ability to change from Discrete to MSHybrid.
OC features for unlocked CPUs using a XTU service.
Fan Profile stuff.
Keyboard Lightning stuff.
Keyboard Macro stuff.
The list goes on...
What happens is sometimes they do model specific changes to any of the many functions/tools of CC but they forget to change the program version and edit both the setup and oem.ini files.
These changes are done for SPECIFIC models to correct some bad behavior of any of the CC parts. That is why i would NOT use CC for another model.

As for general drivers most are model independent, same driver will work for all, it´s just CC that should be taken in consideration.

At the moment the only part i remove from CC is the OC bit, so that the XTU service wont mess my system/fans as reported by some forum members. But even if you use my app (check my sig) each model will have it´s own CC version just like in the CLEVO website, i just do the same mods to all.

 

Hello, I recently got my new laptop Sager NP8155/P650HP3, and everything looks good so far. except that I tried to use the USB 3.1 ports ( USB type c ) but neither of them are working.
In the device manager I can only see Intel drivers for USB 3.0 root hub, even when using Charge doctor to check the voltage it seems there is no voltage on the ports at all. and the windows 10 could not even detect any extra hardware without drivers.
so am I doing something wrong or there is some extra step needed to use type-c (bios settings) or is there the chance that my motherboard have a problem on the usb 3.1 controller?
anyone know any other ways to test if it is software problem or hardware problem? although everything else works great even the 3x USB 3.0 ports ( including the powered port ). So I am not sure if I should RMA my laptop or not.

Thanks.

 

yes it does. I have:

960 EVO pro 51GB PCIe x4 NVMe stick on m.2 slot 1
850 EVO 1TB SATA M.2 stick in m.2 slot 2
(2x) 840 EVO SATA running in raid 0 in 2.5" disk slots.

All working beautifully.

 

Has anyone with P650HS-G or similar model have any luck in getting the Synaptic software to run? It comes with the drivers, the controls are only accessible via Windows 10 settings. On my previosu MSI laptop, I was able to use the Synaptic software to control the sensitivity of the pad while typing so that the cursor doesn't move around everywhere. My palm keeps on touching the pad and it goes everywhere. If you have any suggestions, I'm all ears. Thanks.

 

Thanks for the link. Do you know which driver will work? I know that it isn't the ASMedia because I've already tried that.

 

It is Intel, but i just tried it and it shows as 3.0 too. I will try to get a 10 GBit device next week to do some testing...

 

I'm going to preface what I'm going to say below that I've been living under a rock with Windows 7 for the past ~4 years, so my problem might be not configuring a magical Win10 setting somehow.

Anyway, I have the stock 8265 card, and for the life of me it doesn't like 2GHz bands. Whether it's connecting to my home router (A Cisco DPC3941T that came with Xfinity) or the one at my parent's place (Some ATT modem/router) I just can't get a stable connection. I have good signal strength, but loading browser pages or pinging in the command prompt is sporadic at best. Connecting my Galaxy S3 (yeah, laugh at me) to the same wifi gives me zero issues.

When pinging the router itself I get value anywhere from 50MS response time to 3000(!). So it's something wrong with the connection between my computer and laptop, but I don't know if it's a setting or if it could be hardware related.

To top it off, my 5GHz connection doesn't work flawlessly either. It takes about a minute or two before my machine sees my 5GHz network at home. Sometimes I even have to connect to my (terrible) 2GHz network for a few seconds before the 5GHz shows up. However, once I get a lock onto the 5GHz network it works without issue.

I have the latest drivers, and I think I've set up my network and adapter settings right (granted, I've only been using Windows 10 for a few weeks at this point). Software issues? Or is something wrong with my wireless card?

Or should I be asking the Dexter's Lab mod guy over in the networking section.

 

I would suggest the wireless card itself is having issues if you have checked the physical antenna cables.

 

Mine has no issues with wireless. By the time OS boots, my laptop has already been connected to either 5ghz or 2ghz.

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Looks like a faulty card... Get your reseller to change it! Or cross ship a replacement!

 

Someone know the colour space coverage (srgb and adobergb) of the IPS panel of the NP8155? I'm planning to buy it if it has good color accuracy

 

How was your screen? I haven't tested my USB type C ports yet, no available adapters in my area.

 

I actually just replaced the 7260AC min my wife's desktop with an 8260AC as 5Ghz had stopped connecting properly and 2.4Ghz was slower than it should have been. It's all fine now.

 

My usb-c ports work out of the box without any extra drivers. I am using a cheap usb-c to micro usb cable for phone and other micro-usb devices. The connection is usb 2 though.

 

I am a complete idiot! The supplied chipset drivers will install USB 3.1 host controllers. You just won't see it until you plug in a USB 3.1 device. If you plug in the USB 3.1 host controller device, the device manager will then show the controller. So far everything works.

Now my focus will be directed to nagging and complaining about the software & bios / EC design . Which IMO is healthy in case Clevo is listening.

 

So... check this guys. I took the NP8157 to work and tried the wireless out there. I was able to connect nigh instantly to the 2GHz network and had a smooth connection through cmd pings and speedtest. And, as far as I know, we also use comcast in the shop, so my home router/modem and the one at work might even be the same model.

Considering I've been having issues at two places (home and my folk's place) but not at another (work) I'm back to square one.

I'm working at our second shop next week, and I'll see how it works there.

 

would you guys recommend p650rs(if I am not mistaken) over aw13r3?
The thing that I concerned is the thermal of laptop

 

Have you tried restarting the router before anything? Sometimes that solves the issue.

2.4GHz is heavily crowded in residential areas since almost everyone owns a router or device that emits 2.4GHz frequency. This causes interference. There are different channels in the 2.4GHz spectrum. You can try manually setting your router to a unique or less crowded channel. You can check the channel of every network around your laptop using

Code:

netsh wlan show all

. 2.4GHz uses channel 1-11. 1, 6, and 11 are non-overlapping so if one of them is little or not used, take it. Otherwise, take something like 3, 4, 8 or 9.

Btw your router is old as it uses 5GHz 802.11n which has shorter range and harder time penetrating walls compared to 2.4GHz 802.11n. On the other hand, 5GHz 802.11ac has same range as 2.4GHz 802.11n with beamforming technology.

I would personally return the comcast router (they charge you 10$ rent per month) and buy my own modem + 802.11ac router. The investment will pay off in 1.5 years and you own the equipment.

 

I have. No change.

The problem is that my phone, my little old Alienware, and my old MSI 16F3 had absolutely zero problems with 2.4GHz. I'm only getting these funky spikes with my new machine. And while I just have channels set to automatic (and I can see the channels with inSSIDer), again, my other machines had no issue.

I obviously use 5GHz where I can, but it bugs me when things aren't working as I expect. On top of that even 5GHz has issues.

Unless I'm being lied to, the Cisco DPC3941T uses AC.

I definitely would but I need a telephony modem since we have Triple Play (I think). I need to bone up on my digital voice knowledge more before I do that.

 

I looked at this manual from comcast and saw dual band 802.11n on page 24. No mention of wireless-AC in the manual. Just check in the router's 5GHz network configuration whether it is a/n or a/n/ac. I think cnet thought 802.11a (which is a very old wifi technology) was 802.11ac.

Yeah that sucks. There are modems that support voice but they are expensive (might take 3+ years to payoff). I would still buy a wireless router and switch the modem's wifi off. Comcast are notorious for bandwidth throttling mac addresses with heavy internet use. The router would prevent them accessing invasive information (they have full access on the modem). Also, did you know that your router gives a public hotspot called "xfinitywifi" by default. That might affect your connection if too many users are connected. I hope you have disabled it.

It has happened to me before. I get random spikes/no internet on my old laptop while everything is stable on phone. It might have to do with interference or incompatibility between devices. Not all wireless cards are created the same way. I had a friend whose router would stop working until restart when an Iphone connects to the router.

 

On a funny note, 5GHz connected instantly when I booted today. Maybe it didn't like me badmouthing it.

2.4GHz is still borked.

Yup, definitely has AC

I actually had that set since a few days ago which I didn't mention.

I probably will. Thing is I don't really need the functionality of a higher end router at the moment. Only thing I really miss is DDNS. Maybe when I set up my ghetto servers again I'll need to.

And yeah, I disabled the hotspot from day one. Also MOCA, since, somehow, I found like three Apple computers connected via MOCA when there's no Macs in the house.

Curse you Steve Jobs.




On a completely unrelated note I did a a -150mV core undervolt on the 7700HQ and it ran solid for over an hour in Intel Burn Test. Roughly 61F/16C in my room. IT did this while sitting on a Zalman NC2000 (fans off) with the Overclock fan profile in Control Center

 

Total noob question here but how do you turn off the comcast wifi thingy you guys are talking about? I have comcast too and I didn't know about this.


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It's not on the router itself. You have to go through your comcast account page.

Basically this.

 

Do any of you guys have any luck using the latest Nvidia drivers (378.66) with the 120Hz G-Sync and 1070? I have tried using them but it seems to break G-sync. When I reinstall the drivers from Sager dated 03 FEB 17 (21.21.13.7587) everything works great. Am I missing a setting change or are these Sager drivers optimized to work specifically with this laptop? Thanks.

 

It's pretty similar with BT over here, though I have the router in modem only mode and feed it into an Asus AC unit to actually do the wireless.

It's more Nvidia breaking the way they detect supported systems. A downside to how they manage G-sync.

 

Thanks Meaker, any suggestions on what driver to use or just stick with the latest Sager that works?