*** Official Clevo P65xHS(-G), P65xHPx(-G) / Sager NP8155, NP8156, NP8157 Owner's Lounge ***

Have the HDD closest to the cover you removed to get to it.

 

Anyone have any recommendations on Flexicharge settings in the BIOS?

 

I personally don't bother but really it depends on your usage.

 

Hello team,

Considering moving to this model from my good old P651SG that has serviced me pretty well the last two years.

Do we have any info on Prema's development for this model? I do not see any infos on his website.

Cheers

 

Have had the NP8157 for about a month now. I had to get used to Windows 10 since 7 doesn't have native USB3 drivers and all, and I've dealt with various little nuances/issues getting Win10 the way I wanted and all.
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However I've realized that comparing the LCD display on the NP8157 to the one on my NP8130, the colors are definately not displaying identically. Additionally, the display on the NP8157 seems to have this kind of a slight and natural yellow-green "p-ss" filter bias compared to the display on my NP8130. I can use Nvidia Control Center to alter the blue color stuff to offset most of it, but in various games the "p-ss" filter is easily noticable in dark and shaded areas when it shouldn't be. It's not a perfect fix, and I don't know of a good ICC profile that can offset it yet [none that I've seen in the topic so far works as a fix]

I was considering swapping the displays between the two laptops, but the problem is while I know how to open up the lid on the NP8130, I have no idea how I'd open the one on the NP8157. I don't see any screws to unfasten, let alone a spot on the lid that looks like I can open it. Can anyone confirm if they've been able to open up their lid and replace or look at the LCD screen? I'm hoping it can be done, even if only because of having to replace the screen some day in the distant future like I once had to for my NP8130.

As for the coloration problem itself, I can't really show a proper comparison at the moment, since I don't have a good enough camera right now to capture the differences [the screens are way too bright on the images so you couldn't see the coloration of the two monitors]. I can confirm though the models of the displays in both laptops.

The NP8130 uses a "B156HW02 v.2", and the NP8157 uses a "LG Display 156WF6 [DELL P/N: 3874Y]". Both seem to be 30-pin connections though.

Is there any software that can help me in showing a comparison of the color differences on the two displays [as in it would take screenshots and combined them to easily allow you compare the differences]? I feel it could help if I was able to show it more clearly without use of a physical camera. x.x

 

If you are mostly plugged in and don't need the extra minutes on battery, I recommend 80% start and 90% end. If you need the extra minutes, then 95% start and 100% end.

Battery doesn't keep recharging after losing a small amount of charge resulting in wasting a charge cycle. 90% end has extra protection against overcharging and is better than 100% for non-use.

Check this video for the LCD replacement. Different model but same case.

The yellow filter you are noticing in dark areas (if I understood you correctly) is backlight bleeding. It is pretty common on the default 60Hz 1080p IPS screen that comes with this model. There are few fixes online but with limited success. The reseller can try and fix it for you using the warranty but there is no guarantee the bleeding will be 100% eliminated. You can try getting a different screen from the reseller as an upgrade price instead of full price.

 

Those two models use different display connectors so you can't swap them.

 

I doubt I can really send it back for a replacement, and since you're saying I can't use my other LCD display for it, I need to know what specific LCD screen models would work best and don't have this backlight bleeding problem so I can look them up online better.

 

Any chance you can take some pictures or a video of the problem?

 

As I said, I don't have a great camera[many years old, haven't used it enough to consider getting a new one], and any pictures or videos I take have the screen too bright, or too blurry to really tell any difference. That and I have to make room to put both laptops side by side with a similar image on the desktop first. Like I said, I wish there was a way through software or so to get the differences between displays. :\

Sorry.

 

Also, can backlight bleeding even affect the ENTIRE display, or just in the corners/edges? Because the coloration issue is on the entire screen, not just specfic spots. When I said "dark areas", I mean areas in games where the lighting is very low, or where dark grey colors should be have a trace of that "yellow-ish" filter/coloration on the whole screen. I also noticed the natural gamma of the display is lower than my NP8130's natural gamma, though that on it's own isn't as big of an issue when I can use Control Center to change it.

 

That does sound more like a panel issue that a bleeding issue (Which impacts the edges more).

 

It's nice to see a forum with a thread dedicated to this type of laptop! I have a p650hp g-sync 120hz panel. Is this an aftermarket BIOS on the way? Anything else you folks can tell me about these?

I've tried several different pastes and currently on Kryonaut with a -.130 unvervolt via XTU. Temps and performance have been really good. I'm ultimately looking for 3000 mhz RAM compatibility and whatever else this is capable of lol

 

Yeah, the NP8130 uses a 40pin, and the NP8157 uses a 30pin. Isn't there a converter cable or so on the market that could help if I really needed to move the one screen to the NP8157, or would there not be enough room inside the lid to fit the converter cable?

And barring that, I still haven't found a good listing of alternative 30pin displays. I doubt getting the same model again would fix anything. Anyone have any suggestions?

 

40 pin LVDS vs 30 pin EDP.

 

I believe I might have found the "sweet spot" via Nvidia Control Center [the blue channel needs to be 75% Brightness, 100% Contrast and 1.2x gamma (Red/Green stay at 50%/50%/1.0x), and I even managed to "reverse" this to make the NP8130's display calibrated to show the slight "p-ss" filter colors the default calibrations of the NP8157 have as a test].

But I need to know if there's a way to convert these calibration settings into an ICC color profile. The normal Color Calibration tool for Windows 10 won't really allow changing of Brightness/Contrast/Gamma on individual channels, and the Contrast and Brightness settings in it are useless unless you're using a monitor with its own toggles for those options.

Mostly I want this because I hear some programs or games will override Nvidia's color settings with the default or even their own at times, and I want to stave off those problems ahead of time if possible. >.>;

 

I dont have this yet but how hard is it to add hard drives later on?

 

Easy and intended for the end user to be able to do.

 

Good to know. Gonna start off with a single hdd and add more later on

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Sounds like a plan All brackets are included with our machines (and those from some others) so that it's plug and play.

 

I urgently need help with my laptop. I bought P650HS-G from HIDevolution, and it arrived today. I turned my laptop on, and entered the time zone and keyboard for first blue setup page, pressed "do it later" for the second blue setup page that asked for product key, and connected the laptop to my wifi on third blue setup page. After that, my laptop screen changed to "just a moment page", and when when it started booting, it went back to first blue setup page. What should I do?

Sorry for the broken english

 

Did you try going through again? Someone else was saying they had an issue so a re-install with a fresh image could be your best bet. If you are unsure then give them a call.

See here:

http://forum.notebookreview.com/threads/new-p775dm3-g-looping-through-express-settings.802947/

 

@Meaker@Sager Thank you so much!!!!!!!! I was able to fix it, and It works!! Without your help, I wouldn't have been able to fix this thing!

 

Is there a BIOS update in the works for the 8156?

 

Nice to hear, don't forget to update either thread with what helped, it means others can see what path you took to resolve your issue.

What issue are you having?

 

There is 1.06.08 with EC 1.05.05. You can enable intel speedshift from BIOS since 1.05.04.

You should contact reseller to get the latest version.

 

If I could make a wish regarding a "fix" that I think a lot of NP8157 would appreciate, it would be for a better fan table, one that reaches 100% or equivalent to fn + 1, so that us, the users, will not need to manually toggle it on or off, or better yet a bios option to define maximum fan speed.

 

Actually the unit should never need FN+1 to stay out of the throttle zone.
If a unit actually needs FN+1 to stay properly cooled down then that unit is not working as it should.

 

What are the throttle temps for:

7700hq - ?
1070 - ?

 

Define throttle, running below advertised base frequency or running less than maximum turbo speeds?

 

I'd like to enable XMP 1 or 2 with my 3000 mhz RAM without black or blue screen. I'd also like to see the 7700 hq idle at 800 mhz like the 6700hq instead or 1200-1600 mhz unless this is what Kaby hq chips do?

 

Oh wow! I'm on 1.05.1 Why can I not get the others off of their website like I can with Acer, MSI, Asus ect..?

 

Can we have the information on both e.g. temps where it throttles below advertised frequency and / or temps where it throttles below turbo speeds?

Personally its ok for me to run less than max turbo speeds or advertised base frequency as long as it prevents the product from dying early due to excess heat etc.

I am seeing 88c GPU and 90-95c CPU after 1 hour of playing Witcher 3 and it bothers me if this machine can keep this up for a year with those temps or will it suddenly die due to excess heat.

 

My 7700hq idles at ~800mhz, i adjusted the power options in win10 control panel to achieve this, I set minimum processor state to 0%

BTW temps on screenshot are taken during normal office work, word, excel etc.

 

Thanks, I tried setting to 0% and even rebooted but this is what I get.

 

Where did you find this information on the specific BIOS available? I just called Eluktronics and they have no clue that any BIOS exists beyond the factory BIOS and stated that Clevo sends them over when available, which makes sense.

Perhaps a Sager rep can shed some light on this fro me

 

I got it from my reseller HIDevolution. I am going to flash the BIOS next week as I have a couple of important things to finish this week on the laptop (Don't want to take any risks of bricking).

Btw I am P650HS-G not P650HP6-G. But they usually have the exact same BIOS versions.

Anyway your BIOS is 1.05.1. OBSIDIAN-TOOLS reports that the latest version is 1.05.04 for P650HP-6. So I don't know how your reseller doesn't have that one at least.

 

MYSN shows 1.05.3 and EC 1.05.2. [hide] [/hide]
I hope they will release the latest version soon.

 

This temps are a little worrisome. I wanted to buy this machine but those temps some of you seem to be getting are higher than what my crappy Razer blade was giving me =/...

Has anyone gotten one from hidevolution with the 30$ thermal paste upgrade and have experience and know if temps are any better if you go that route as that is probably the vendor and set up I would go with.

Also how new is this laptop? Kind of disappointing this thread doesn't ha e too many pages or seem to have as many people who own the machine compared to some of the other clevo machines. I need to make up my mind soon about what to do .

 

Thanks! It appears there's new BIOS available but how on earth does someone like me get their hands on it?

https://forum.obsidian-pc.com/discussion/75/p650hp6-g

 

I couldn't wait for next week. So, I just flashed the BIOS today. Apparently, it is only 1.05.04 as the one reported in Obsidion-Tools.

The HIDevolution technician told me it was 1.06.08. They even wrote 1.06.08 on one of the scripts to execute. I guess it is a typo.





I didn't see any option to enable Intel Speedshift. It is still NOT enabled.

The major change is that now you can undervolt the CPU

 

Your reseller should get it some time soon.

 

Hello everyone!
I plan on getting this from HIDEvolution( link here, I think this is the right model). I hope this is the right choice to go for, since I want international warranty! And also that EVOC is a good brand to go for as far as Clevo rebrands are concerned.
I want a TB3 port but it is mostly for an eGPU and the need for that won't be 3-4 years down the line, as the laptop has a 1070, so I can compromise over that and go for this laptop. My budget is around 2000USD, and this was the best price-to-performance ratio laptop out there, as pointed out by @Galm.
I have a few doubts though, as I've never owned a Clevo laptop, or even a gaming laptop, for that matter.
Would this laptop last me 4-5 years? Considering the build quality etc, this seems like a pretty good choice. I will go for the FHD 120Hz/7820HK/16GB RAM/1TB HDD+256GB SSD config.
Would anyone recommend that I change anything, like go for G-Skill RAM rather than the ordinary or Samsung SSDs rather than the ordinary "HIDEvolution approved ones"?
And how much difference does RAID make? I could go for 2 128GB SSDs in RAID rather than one 256GB one.
Also I'll be going for the Coollaboratory Liquid Ultra repaste and wanted to know after how long I'd need another repaste?
And any other general advice the owners of this laptop want to give to me? I want to go over everything with someone experienced with this laptop before I finalize the purchase.
Sorry for the long post!

 

I just sent an e-mail to Sager and GentechPC (the reseller I purchased from), but I'm having issues with my 1060 refusing to downclock/idle. It keeps running at maximum clocks, even if the computer is just idling, with CPU and GPU at 0%. This causes the GPU to heat up, and the fan to run excessively loud, which is really annoying, not to mention it drains the battery when I'm not plugged in. I've looked at several different things, including multiple driver versions, but haven't been able to find the issue. The general issue happens in both Windows and Linux, but the fan seems to run even faster/louder in Linux. Restarting will fix the issue about half of the time, but it always comes back within a day or two.

I was wondering if this is a firmware/BIOS issue that could be fixed by an update.

Edit: The mention that the new BIOS has an OS selection option gives me hope, as generally BIOSs that "autodetect" OS shut off many features when it doesn't detect Windows, which causes a bunch of problems. This is needed by people still running Windows XP or ancient versions of Linux, but is a pain for anybody running a modern non-Windows OS. By being able to force the BIOS into "Windows 10" mode, it will actually expose the hardware capabilities to the OS properly, which may fix this issue.

 

Don'e get raid. It increases latency with minimal real world improvement. Otherwise your config looks good. The best way to save money is often to just buy a drive yourself, otherwise the HID approved ones are usually fine. RAM as long as its 2400MHz should be good enough, it doesn't make a huge difference in most games.

Definitely get liquid ultra, it's hard to tell how long it will last, usually quite a while.

 

Thanks!
As for the RAM, how much difference will 2400MHz and 2666MHz make for productivity purposes(game development, for example)?
And as for the SSD, do you have any recommendation in particular? I've heard that of you install a SSD yourself, it does not void Clevo warranty(not sure about HID warranty though), so I'm interested in what options I have.
Also is professional display calibration worth it? Or can I just grab a calibrated display profile from someone else?
Sorry to sound like a noob!

 

Connected to an external display at idle, I get random restarts maybe after 3 or 4 hours. What could be a cause for this?

 

It won't void any warranties. You can install an ssd yourself without any issues from HID.

The ram difference will be literally like nothing in normal usage. Game development I'm not sure, it still should be much.

Depends, can you access a calibrator yourself? You can't really download a profile from someone elses screen and have it be perfect for yours. They won't be perfect.

SSD recs, I like the Sandisk X400 and Ultra II lines because they are really good value. The 850 Evos are good too.

 

You'll want an NVMe SSD, which one is a matter of preference. They're WAY faster than SATA ones and won't take up one of your limited SATA ports, which you can instead put a 1 or 2TB normal HDD for storage.

Every display is slightly different, so grabbing someone else's profile, while possibly better than nothing, isn't the same. Also, display backlights change over time requiring display recalibration every 90 days or so, especially when they're new. So getting a calibration for a brand new monitor with no way to update it is mostly pointless. Instead of spending $50 on a one-time calibration, you can buy a Spyder5 colorimeter for $99 and calibrate your own display, update the calibrations, and use it on each of your computers.

 

Thanks. I'll look into the colorimeter!
And yes I've done some research on the different types of SSDs. I'll look towards buying one.



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