*** Official Clevo P65xRS(-G), P65xRP6(-G) / Sager NP8153(-S), NP8152(-S) Owner's Lounge ***

I own the p650HS-G w/GTX 1070 and can attest to the heat issue. While playing less than 20 min (BO3) I was spiking to the mid 90's and staying in the high 80's until Phoenix helped me undervolt the cpu and now occasionally hit the mid 80's.

 

I´d say, the GPU makes some diference. The Asus Strix you mentioned only comes with the 1060 (95 Watt) while the P507 features the 1070 (120W), which - so there should be more heat to cope with. Hence the difference.

You could put the MSI ( http://www.notebookcheck.com/Test-MSI-GT62VR-6RE-Dominator-Pro-Notebook.170012.0.html) up against the P507 - yet the MSI is 4cm high and thus has better cooling possibilities.

Best regards

phila

P.S.: I just ran Furmark (98% Load - while the test over at notebookcheck shows only 93%) and Prime 28.10 (maximum heat mode) for 20 Minutes and got 85 GPU / 93 CPU. So after an hour you could probably reach reach the 100°C...

 

A lot of designs let the GPU portion soak up some more of the CPU heat while clevo focus on the GPU temps to make sure the GPU clocks are maintained as best as possible.

 

This may have already been answered, but you have to update to Windows 10 anniversary edition, download the Xbox accessories app from the Microsoft store and update the controller to continue using it.

 

(AKA the right choice). Their cpus still tend to at least hold their clocks anyway, though admittefly sometimes stock paste jobs are not always great in my experience. Add some good paste though and your good to go!

 

So, I got the P650RP6 (no G-Sync) from Eluktronics. Two main problems that I have with it:

1) Holy mother of god, who designed the goddamn backcover? Mine is Model A - Design II, and it took me two hours to carefully open up the backcover. While I appreciate the fact that they designed the case such that it is sturdy enough to hold the cover in place even with no screws supporting them, it is way too hard to open it up just to add another SSD/RAM/clean the internal. Basically, there's no easy access to those aforementioned parts.
There apparently aren't any documentation on how to open it as well, which resulted in a slightly bent USB 3.0 port in my case (because why not make the port extends outside the main body and then make that back piece a part of the "back cover" as well, right?)

2) During startup, and occasionally while idling, I can hear the laptop's fans making a 3-stage speed up sort of sound. Not sure if I should be concerned about it, but that's kinda weird - unless it's designed to flush out some dust or whatever.

Link to the exact model + configurations that I bought.

 

1... Next time ask here. We all could have helped with that... I'm sorry about your port.

2. Seems harmless enough. Check your temps I suppose to make sure nothing funky is going on, but that's probably some sort of test or ramp up I guess. @Meaker@Sager would probably know the answer to that better than myself.

 

Actually, if you could link to a guide on how to remove it, that'd be nice. I intend to open it up in the future to clean the fans, after all.

Forgot to mention this, but it took me another half hour to put it back in because it just kept bulging out near that same USB port somehow.

Also, this is a bit of a d*** move, but it is still within the return period for the laptop. I don't know if it's worth returning though - the port's still functional, it's just the metallic adapter part that was slightly bent. I also tested the screen for dead pixels earlier and there were none (RGB, Black and White), and I don't know if the new unit would come in with zero dead pixels or not.

 

It's all available in the service manual. Technically you're probably not supposed to open it according to your re-seller warranty/terms and completely at fault for any damage if you do (pretty normal).

I find the key to opening/closing the P series is:

1. Start from the ethernet port, but put the most pressure opening toward the "front". The rest should click out by levering it open.
2. When replacing the cover, make ABSOLUTELY sure you "tuck" the rear USB and power connectors in FIRST, then the rest drops down easily.

 

I don't have time to make a comprehensive guide right now, but basically unscrew all the screws except the 2 differently marked ones (I think keyboard and fan or two keyboards). Then push the cover back towards the rear of the machine and it should slide right off.

 

I did started from the ethernet port as well, but that was after some googling that led me to a YouTube video that showed how to open another Clevo model. I made the assumption that they would probably follow the same steps.
Same for when I put the back cover back in, although I sort of made a logical conclusion on that part (the USB port protruded outside the laptop's overall frame... there's no way that would go in last). Nevertheless, that still took me a few tries before I could get it in properly - for some reason, even when I tuck the rear part in first, the area away from the USB port would always bulge out. I'm not sure if this is the case, but right at that spot, there's a cable for something that wraps across the motherboard's edge with a clear manufacturer's tape affixed to it.

Btw, I was googling for a while but I couldn't find the service manual for this model, although I did found the complete user manual for it. I guess Clevo only gave them out to their resellers with maybe some NDA involved?

There are 14 screws total - 12 normal ones, and 2 for the keyboard. IIRC I couldn't remove the back cover until I took those 2 screws for the keyboard out as well.

 

Hehe, whoops you're right you do take them all out... Was thinking of my old MSI.

 

We recommend new users speak to their resellers if they want to open the machine, they can assist with the right technique. Sometimes a description or a video link works better than a manual.

Even the likes of @HTWingNut reaches out and asks to be sure they are doing it properly.

 

Thank you for making me regret not coming here for solutions in the first place I shall quietly lamenting over my slightly deformed rear USB 3.0 port in this corner over here...

Also, the first time opening it was the hardest for me. Since then, it became a lot more loose in subsequent attempts. I assume that what's shown in the video wasn't his first time opening it up, either (or maybe he skipped over his actual attempt part).

Btw, I forgot to ask these questions @Galm @Stooj :
1) This laptop came with a fan profile/overclock/keyboard backlight/FlexiKey software. Should I just use this software to overclock, or is Afterburner still a more preferable method for overclocking?
2) From 1), how should I control the fan when I have my overclocked profile enabled? With the included software or Afterburner still?
3) What else can I test that slightly deformed USB port with? I hooked it up with my Nexus 6 to see if data transfer is still possible, which it was. Is that enough to conclude that the port's working as intended?
4) Still unanswered, so I'll ask again: during startup, and occasionally while idling, I can hear the laptop's fans making a 3-stage speed up sort of sound. Is this a normal behavior? I recalled some laptops in the past have this one feature where their fans will briefly spin in the opposite direction (compare to its normal operation) in order to flush out accumulated dust. So, maybe it's a similar feature?

Frustration got the best of me at 3AM last night, and that was after one hour of trying to open it without either getting my fingers cut by the chassis's edges or trashing the whole back cover via sheer force.

I'll probably ask my reseller tomorrow for a more detailed instruction. Thank you for the idea though.

QUICK EDIT: I totally forgot to ask this: For 2017, what is (or are) the go-to software for GPU benchmark? I haven't put together a desktop in years, and now I don't know what people use to stress-test their overclock for stability.

 

Hi all. Could anyone guide me on how to.setup flexicharge. What level is appropriate for battery charging typically?

Sent from my SPH-L720 using Tapatalk

 

3dmark is still a nice go to.

 

Afterburner is still preferable as it has other nifty stuff (like RTSS). Personally, I set my keyboard backlight and stuff then disable it the Clevo stuff (generic HotKey program for airplaine mode can still run).

Afterburner doesn't control the fan. In fact, it's mostly in the hands of the system itself. You really only get the profiles in the Clevo CC which don't seem to do all that much.
Manually, you can use the FN+1 shortcut which just forces full fans which is good for chasing benchmark scores.

How deformed is it? Usually it's just the shielding on it as all the actual control pins are on the "block" inside the port. You should be able to bend it back into shape (with the exception of the block part, bending that could break it off if you're not careful).

It'll just be normal fan behaviour. I've noticed since the Skylake (could just be a <16nm thing) that temperatures can spike and develop very quickly. You can go from a nice 35C idle to 60C under load in less than a second which makes creating nice controlled fan curves bloody impossible. In Skylake Intel calls it "Speed Shift" which can theoretically jump you from base clock to turbo clock in ~50ms.

3DMark Firestrike (you can download the "Demo" version on Steam which gives you access to the default Firestrike bench). Most overclocking issues will be uncovered with the 2nd part of the test, particularly memory overclocks.

 

I don't quite understand what you mean by "I set my keyboard backlight and stuff then disable it the Clevo stuff." So, do you set up the keyboard backlight one-time, then uninstall that control panel software? Or is that control panel software separate from the keyboard backlight controller?

So for the fan option it's either default (let the OS handles it) or crank it to full with FN+1 (for when you play games/benchmarking)? Basically, there's no need for the whole fan profile thing?

And yes, I did used the wrong word. What I mean was the metallic casing that got bent, although it's on the side closest to the inside "block" with pins, and not the opposite side with empty space in between.

That's a pretty weird "normal" fan behavior indeed. But, my latest laptop is on Haswell (lol), so I've been out of the loop for a long time anyway.

Lastly, will running Firestrike for stress-testing alone be enough? Also, does the demo actually simulate real-world usage or does it just crank it all the way up and see if the GPU (with whatever voltage/core frequency/memory you set) is up to the snuff?

 

Basically I installed the Clevo CC, configured the backlight (I just use a plain blue, not too bright), then disabled the start-up item so it doesn't automatically run. I can manually start it up if I every need to change it. The ClevoCC can interfere with other OC tools so other than the keyboard backlight I don't really need it running all the time.

Yep. System is basically in charge at all times unless you use the FN+1 shortcut (press it again to go back to auto-fans btw).

I guess it's probably still a little relevant on Haswell and they run hotter all round. Judging by the avatar I'm guessing you're from Oz? Since we just got through summer ambients are higher so you're more likely to trigger fan levels.

You might also want to look at re-pasting since (given it's a Haswell) I'm guessing it's over a year old now? I'd recommend Thermal Grizzly Kryonaut as it's super easy to apply and theoretically has a longer life-span than GC Extreme (my previous favourite).

Firestrike is good enough as a normal test. I think you can get the Time Spy (DX12) test as well which has much higher draw calls (which creates a slightly different load). Furthermore, it's usually worth running the Firestrike Extreme/Ultra tests as they can sometimes generate more load than the standard Firestrike test (typically only for high end GPUs like the 1070/1080/980Ti where CPU throttling becomes a thing).

If you're serious about pushing your machine, I'd definitely have a look at buying 3DMark (sometimes comes on sale for $15USD or so). Buying it unlocks all the tests (except VR mark..zzz) and you can disable the "demo" that plays after every bench (saving you a minute or 2 on every run).

 

This is so funny, I opened my laptop the day I got it and from analysing, I too started with the ethernet port, and when I put it back together I started with the rear USB and power ports making sure they were aligned first. I like how people manage to get to the same conclusion without previously discussing it

 

But after disabling HotKey process and restarting system custom profile for keyboard backlight doesn't work - only default blue backlight.

 

It should work until the EC is reset.

 

Hello, I have an order being built for a P650HS(-G) running a i7-7820HK and Coollaboratory Liquid Ultra. Has anyone got any temperature reports for these new models? I've read some posts saying they are running hot but with what paste job. stock, IC Diamond? Cheers!

 

Hey there, I recently updated my BIOS and ME to 1.0.5.8 version without a hitch. However, after the update I forgot that I have yet to update the EC too. Am I screwed now or can I just simply update the EC normally?

 

I guess so far there is still no solution how to stop the pulsing of the fans during idle?

 

My reseller recommeds to flash EC first an BIOS second. With this in mind and safety first, you could repeat the entire process (EC and BIOS). It might even be that the program will recognize, that the BIOS is the same. As far as I remember it does chech /compare teh versions first.

At what frequency is your GPU running?

Best regards

phila

 

I would say the GPU isn't the problem. The fans are running at 1700rpm and it's pretty much unrecognisable. But the CPU fan is sometimes spinning up, of course there is some load, but just not enough that it justifies the loud fan.

 

Something interesting happened to my friend's 650RS-G. Played Overwatch and GPU temps climbed all the way up to 91 celcius and it was pasted with Grizzly Kryonaut. Took a look at it and ran Heaven at max settings at 1080p and it seems that the GPU fans were not turning. Near instant climb in to the high 80s. Fan setting in CCC was Automatic. Setting it to overclock seemed to force the GPU fans in to the max speed as you would get with the fn+1 shortcut but temps stayed down. Not too sure if the BIOS/EC has been updated and i do not want to risk flashing new ones as i have not done it on these types of machines before. Any solutions that hopefully don't involve using the new EC/BIOS?

 

I've visited Australia, and those dumb mammals left quite an impression on me, hence the avatar lol. And I guess it's a well known fact that Haswell runs hotter than normal (dear Christ, I wonder which rock had I been living under all these years)? And yes, after I'm done transferring my files and doing a factory reset, I'm going to repaste this laptop with my spare MX-4 before I hand it over to my relative.

Btw, do you literally disable all the stuff that comes with Clevo during startup (except maybe the keyboard backlight software)? I was pretty shocked by 12 icon trays post-boot. Even my current laptop has only like 6. I personally do not care much about backlight thing, so if you're saying that all these Clevo software can potentially conflict with other software that I normally use, I'll probably just go ahead and disable them all.

 

I noticed the fan profile would be messed up if you opened and enabled custom Profile. Even if you revert to Auto or Overclock, it still be "broken". Only solution I did was do a NVRAM reset. That did the trick at least for me. Worth a try in your part.
Also installing XTU with the CCC can cause some problems accdng to some. Better disable it if you know how.

 

Hello, it seems clevo has stopped updating drivers for RS model, is it how they always do it when new version of model comes out and should I get driver updates from new model then?

 

Use the app in my signature, have fun.

 

No XTU on this machine. Read about how it messed it the tables so it was a no go from that point on. Gonna try the reset tomorrow. Thanks man

Sent from my D6653 using Tapatalk

 

How do you get the app to work? I get an error when running it that says:

"This application failed to start because it could not find or load the Qt platform plugin
"windows" in ""."

 

Please try again!
I forgot a file in today update.
Download again and tell me if it works.

 

Okay works perfectly now. Thanks!

 

I also just bought pro CDN for the app, hopefully better speed for everyone anywhere.
Not sure if it will cause problems with anything, im testing it, but please report if any download fails.

 

Wow excellent app, thanks for this!! Sager website also doesn't update theirs anymore. Nice to see my 2 month old laptop lose driver update support from the manufacturer


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Also, does anyone get into the restart/reboot loop with Realtek Audio Driver Install? I hate this and cannot ever figure out why it happens. It will uninstall and then reboot to install and it just does step 1 again, uninstall. So I get stuck in this reboot to take effect. Thanks for any help in advance.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

Yeah that´s a common problem with the Realtek Driver
Happens sometimes to me too... nothing i can do about it, at least for now. Hum.... wait... actually i can solve that if i add a extra step in the app, but i don´t have time for that atm.

Just made the app a "Tray Icon" app, for those who want to start it hidden with Windows, now it does a nice Tray Icon with Tray icon menu, and gives you Notifications using the Windows Notify System -> much requested feature.

Will be available on next update!

 

This app is brilliant! Thank you so much for this!!!!!

 

Very useful app. Thank you.

Also, not related to the app but I see you are working at a Clevo reseller.

Would you be able to shed some light regarding the light bleed of this particular model? I know the screen itself is pretty much perfect, it's the frame that is not as it's pushing down the screen too hard thus creating the light bleed. I tried tightening up screws of the screen as well as readjusting the frame but none of that worked. Do you have some sort of a workaround for that issue?

 

Hi John, is the App recommended for all P650RS-G owners or should we check with our reseller/builder on this one?

 

it works perfectly for your model as well

 

Bought mine from Xotic Pc and the app works perfect for me. Drivers have been less buggy than the ones I've downloaded either from Sager or on my own.


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Works with all models.
I will add more new models in the next days.
Big update in the engine is coming.
I also have BIOS and EC Firmware update ready, but im still considering the dangers of flashing the BIOS in Windows (probably need to add a lot of checks and tests before flash).

 

The driver set on the website is a base, most really should not need updating where as the video driver can be had from Nvidia directly.

 

For me if I disable the hotkey stuff on startup it keeps the color on a reboot but it doesn't keep it after turning computer off and on.

 

Can someone tell me the real weight of the P650RP6-G ? (barebone with battery, and without HDDs, SSDs, RAM).

I am confused, because of the following data from Notebookcheck:
- P650SE has 2.6kg (Clevo website says 2.5kg)
- P650RP6-G has 2.85 kg (Clevo website says 2.6kg)

Now I'm petty sure the HDD makes 100 grams on both... But even if I subtract these, the P650RP6-G seems to be off... what has happened? Why is it such a brick?