*** Official Clevo P65xRS(-G), P65xRP6(-G) / Sager NP8153(-S), NP8152(-S) Owner's Lounge ***

It's from XMG. Listed as .07a but shows .07 in BIOS. Flexicharger not working.

 

I bought the P650RP6

However, I have noticed some issues so far. The first is the stacked drive arrangement. Clevo says it should be compatible with 1x 9.5mm and 1x 7mm but thats a lie, it was about half a mm short. Fortunately I had a 7mm ssd so I removed the external metal casing from the Samsung 840 and slotted it in, shaved off about 4mm. I could even get a 12.5mm drive now if I can find one thats more than 2tb.

The next thing is the battery life. I have been on MSHybrid mode and I can't see any GPU usage of the GTX 1060 but I am running on battery right now, the only things that are open are chrome and HWMonitor, and the battery is going down 1% every 90 seconds. This roughly translates to 2hr30 of battery life which is shockingly bad compared to the up to 5hrs they claimed. A lot of reviews seem to get a consistent 3hrs with more usage than what I am doing right now, so if I don't make that I will be a sad panda

I also have 1 dead pixel and 1 stuck pixel which was superbright green yesterday but has faded slightly. I would rather it be dead than stuck to be honest, if I can see it on a black background it will wind me up. On white backgrounds I don't mind so much It isn't so bad with the screen being 1920x1080 i guess, if it was lower res it would be worse.

On the positive side is everything else about this laptop. The GPU, the CPU, the running temps (30C on idle WHAT?). I did a kombuster overclock and got +265 core +535 memory which gave a 10% increase in FPS which I can't complain about, and the GPU temp stayed at 65C. However, playing GTAV on basically every setting maxed out except MSAA (2x) and reflection MSAA (2x), ran at 40fps mostly in the city without overclock and that hit 73C, so I think Kombuster is probably not really stressing the GPU at all. Also when I used the overclock above, the game crashed. So I think I will be more conservative in future, I also don't really care about OC so long as this GPU can play games on at least high for the next 2 years and at least medium on 2 years beyond that. Thoughts on this?

Keyboard has maybe 1mm of flex if you really press down hard, you have to mean it. Trackpad is so big it needs satellite navigation. Fingerprint reader didn't work until I put a PIN into windows Hello but now it works fine. FlexiKey app is amazing! Being able to set macros to any key except the windows key and P is awesome, but the macros only register 14 inputs for some reason. The fan has a proper ramp too, it speeds up like a jet engine up to the rpm it wants to spin at. So much more I like but I will leave it at there for now

 

I'd say there are 2 types of p650rs experiences. A group of people getting about 70C under maximum load and another one getting 80-90C, both of them with good TP, not factory. What's the difference? I don't really know

 

Getting rid of CCC was the first thing I did (reinstalled windows), along with an NVRAM reset.

As for thermal application, I actually used the dot/line method the first time. temps went a bit lower at least for the CPU when I did the spread method

 

If I want to install my own NVME SSD (like the 960 Evo), do I need the laptop configured a specific way or is the P650RS always compatible?

 

Yeah, sounds awesome! I'm a bit color blind too, red-green defiencies but nothing too bad, it's great because I never seem to get red lights when driving. Just some crazy people honking.
Running in Discrete has a BIG impact on battery life. It's a bit of a dealbreaker for me because I use it a lot on battery, if I didn't I would have gone for a new P750DM but they are massive. It has some good points too, a little more system stability and performance.
I'd love to see it for sale somewhere in the EU.

Yeah it's weird, I'm in the first group. Great temps, mine has Grizzly Kryonaut. I've been having some performance issues (fixed as of now) but didn't see any throttling happening, why such a big temperature delta between units?

 

Huh that's funny, now my temps are reaching 60 C while on load.

I'll continue running tests to see if the those temps are more consistent.

 

The fastest test is to run a really demanding game, in my case Witcher 3, but any other demanding game should do (like Unity)

 

I've heard that ICD is a good choice because it is pretty viscous compared to other TPs. You might want to check for pumpout if you are using a different TP.

Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk

 

I had a somewhat similar experience. My GPU temps were low, I fiddled with things like CCC and some GPU settings while in discrete mode, whatever I did sent GPU temps into high 80s low 90s and I had stability issues. Uninstalling ccc and xtu, nvram reset, changing GPU settings and mshybrid mode for some reason put my temps back to high 60s under load. Wish I knew what was going on...

Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk

 

I just flashed the last bios available from my provider. Fans are drastically improved from the one I had. I'll check later if it affects temps or performance

EDIT:

Ok, so I've checked everything now. After all the updates, BIOS etc I get about 75-76C max when playing Witcher 3 with auto fan. About 72-73 with max fan. This in MSHYBRID, if I choose to discrete I get about 3-4C more in each case, but I can't see any noticeable performance difference, although I have 60fps cap

It looks like the latest bios improves fan profiles and temps by a bit, and also matches the performance in discrete and hybrid (my previous version had worse performance in hybrid)

However I've noticed that using a 2nd monitor duplicating displays I have freezes quite often and I can't even open Witcher 3. I don't have this problem using just either of them instead of both. Anyone knows why?

Also, I have some stuttering in high populated cities in Witcher, what could be causing this?

Not yet under 70s like some people here, but in any case, I prefer this 72-75C temps than the previous 85-90C

 

So, I may prove my abject incompetence, but here goes.

I have a Sager NP-8153-S/P650RS-G purchased from LPC Digital. I attempted to update the BIOS using the Eluktronics BIOS from the link in the consolidated list at https://docs.google.com/spreadsheet...Qvn-spKxhSmMhqNiZWkcL0vBkw/edit#gid=377497278.

I started the update and in the middle of it all my screen went blank and has not yet recovered. It eventually turned off, but the thing will now only turn on to a blank screen and eventually turns itself off after a bit.

I'm assuming I managed bricked it. Did I screw myself by using the Eluktronics BIOS?

Thanks.

 

That sounds absolutely terrible, although I'm no expert in BIOS, but did you get any messages before the problem? Are you sure you chose the correct BIOS version? (I haven't tried that Eluktronics one)

If you turn it on it just goes black and nothing else?

If you can tell exactly what step gave you the problem maybe it could be useful

 

Inexorable - have you tried connecting an external monitor to see if you get any display on that?

 

Wow that sucks. I have only updated the BIOS once (.05) and upon reboot it took a really long time to get going. Made me super nervous but it eventually booted (2-3 minutes).

I hope yours isn't bricked. Good luck!

 

I plugged it in via HDMI to a monitor and the monitor could not detect it as a source, much less display anything. Tried to "log" into Windows blindly and use the function keys to change the display options, but that did not work.

This all happened around " Step 7: Run FlashMeWinX64.bat", taken from http://www.eluktronics.com/support/p650rs-g-p670rs-g-p670rp6-bios-update/. It started to run and do its thing, then eventually went black. I could not tell you exactly where in the process of that command it went south.

I took the thing apart and removed the internal battery, then unplugged the CMOS to see if that would help, but no dice.

Thanks for the replies, all.

 

Far Cry 4 and Gears of War 4 seem to be equally demanding as well.

Now, my max temps is at 88 C, after 45 mins of play. I'm thinking the TP might require some heat cycles

 

Have you tried undervolt? 88C with max fan or auto? Discrete or hybrid?

I think the best way to reduce temps is latest bios-undervolt-hybrid-max fan. That should put you at least in the lows 70s.

As for the guy with the bios problem, I believe updating from windows instead of from bios boot can brick a laptop more easily.

There are some things you can try, like nvram reset, trying usb boot and such. However I'm no expert, so maybe email a reseller directly asking for the best recovery in clevos, even if it's not your reseller they should be able to help with that question.

Worst case scenario BIOS chip should be able to be fixed/replaced or RMA depending on the reseller. Maybe someone else's BIOS backup could help.

These are just ideas, again, don't try anything I say without asking an expert in clevos first

 

And now the Google Doc has "Contact your reseller" next to the BIOS and EC cells.

Learn from my mistakes, I guess.

 

Something might be wrong with your battery life and -175 undervolt on CPU, 50% screen, MSHybrid, power safe, three days ago I got this



Today, I have almost 6h in MShybrid and power save.

My config is:
Intel Core i7 6700HQ (Skylake)
8 GB DDR4 2133 Mhz HyperX Kingston
Nvidia GTX 1060 (6GB GDDR5)
256GB SanDisk 6Gb/s M.2 SATAe
LCD IPS de 15.6" 1080p without G-sync

 

I just received one of the Eluktronics p650rs today. the light bleed is liveable except one spot is kinda annoying. Removing the bezel helped, but when I put it back on it was the same.

One thing I noticed is that certain colors have a slight textured look (orange and medium blue are the worst). It almost looks they have vertical lines. Does anyone else have this? I'm trying to decide if I'm crazy, but my budget tablet's IPS doesn't seem to have the lines.

 

I've already undervolted my CPU (-125mV). Currently running on Discrete, for GSync. Is going MSHybrid worth doing, at the cost of no Gsync?

With max fans, temps went down to 77C. Any way to set fans to max without having to press Fn+1 every time?

 

Someone very early in this thread had this problem. Think he used the Intel website to show it. There were clear vertical lines. I think it's a bad panel and you need a new one, but I'm not sure.
Search this thread and see if you can find the post.

Edit: http://forum.notebookreview.com/thr...s-owners-lounge.795090/page-198#post-10346961

 

You may save about 3C in hybrid, not a big deal really. I guess you can just max fan every time you play until we find out why our units are hotter.

You can also turn on max fan through CCC, but the easiest is fn+1

 

Does anyone know how to open up the backcover of the 650rp6g? Or maybe know where I can find a disassembly guide? I'm trying to install a hdd and have removed the screws of the small cover but am unsure of how to remove it. I'm scared that I will damage it if I pry it open.

 

it's a different clevo model but the method is the same. start from the LAN port area.

 

Remove ALL screws from the backcover, then pull the backcover out.

 

So I've done further tests for anyone interested, I've been playing Witcher ultra, hairworks 8x, hd mods, 1080and specifically trying to stress out the gpu with dense areas, weather effects, fire... Etc

As a result, being in mshybrid I've been at 70C or under most of the time (mostly 67C, ocasionally up to 72C). However, with this max load I've seen fps drop to 45, although most of the time it's been stable at 60fps. Being in discrete the fps have never gone under 57 in the same circumstances, although temps have been up to 77-79C.

So I'm really starting to think that there's some difference in gpu/cpu behaviour between both modes. But I think you'll only notice it under extreme setting that are really pushing the laptop to the limit, not with benchmarks or light games like doom.

So I'd advice anyone that don't really need super ultra performance to try out hybrid, and using discrete if you're going over the top.

I now want to try to OC the gpu being in hybrid and see if I can get the same performance as discrete with less temp.

Btw, I think some people here have the 6700k/6820hk and some others have metal thermal paste too. Since I don't have that model, could a 6700k be cooler than the 6700HQ under the same circumstances? Given that the 1st one would be working less and producing less heat because of more raw power. I guess the 6700k and up would only be hotter if it's working at 99%. Anyone knows about this?

 

I tried to follow this video, but when I was going to take the cover out for the first time, I hear some glue or tape sound like that I was unstick something... That Scared me a lot and I stop without opening it.

Dummy question: If i close the throtlle stop, it will still work? Or I need to leave it open all the time? I tried to minimize it to system tray but this feature isn't working on mine.

Other thing. Every time I came to this particular thread, there is a song playing and I can't find the source. Also, only on this forum I have experiencing slowness. To right this post I have to close the tab and open again... I hear someone here have a similar problem, but I can't find it...

Thanks all

 

Hi there!

Is you fingerprint reader absolute useless as well?

Mine won`t recognize "me" 3 ot of four times...

According to the Clevo download site I am on the acctual driver version.

Best regards

phila

 

If you start and after that shutdown throttlestop its options will still work for you until you close system. You can see that clearly in HWmonitor where it shows undervolted options from throttlestop.

 

Even if you do it slowly? I have to do it really slow, but it works. Maybe registering again the fingerprint?

 

I'm about to order an NP8153-S: what's the consensus on i7-6700HQ vs i7-6820HK? Is there enough thermal overhead for overclocking?

 

sure, with 6820hk you can put 4ghz without problem temperature should be fine after a little undervolt.

 

Guys, I have a problem with my P670RG.
This night I used it and turned it off. Then tried to turn it on again few minutes later, nothing, blue led is on, but nothing on the screen and fans not turning on, just HDD spinning up. With AC, same but after few seconds fans spin up to maximum and three lock leds start flashing. I tried to boot it without HDDs, swapping RAM and it is same.
This happened month ago, and then next morning it started working properly. But now I don't know what to do, I need it to work and I am quite stressed. What can possibly happen?


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CORRECTION. The Clevo spec is: Up to two changeable 2.5" 7mm(H) SATA HDDs or SSDs - or one 2.5" 9.5mm(H) SATA HDD

 

One person who has a P670 succeeded in fitting a 7mm at bottom and 9.5mm at top. P650RS might be able to, but not sure.
P650RP = 25mm
P650RS = 28.7mm
P670RP = 30mm
P670RS = 30mm

 

So if we compare the 120Hz FullHD TN panel to the 60Hz 4K PLS LED Display, which would you advise? And why?

 

I played a session of Battlefield 1 and GPU temp soared to 87-88C while a couple of CPU cores hit 93-94C. Is this a safe temp range to game at? I used ThrottleStop to undervolt my CPU by -100mV but there seems to be no noticeable drop in CPU or GPU temps. Please help me out!

(Also, does ThrottleStop only work when it is running in the background?)

 

Throttlestop will need to set each boot IIRC.

Battlefield will load down all aspects of the system so it is somewhat or a worst case. What were your averages?

 

Hello guys! My P650RP is working like a charm S2

I was wondering if someone use a keyboard protection like a silicon cover... I'm planing to buy one, but not sure yet, once the keyboard layout is little different from the regular ones (like the button before #1 above letter... it is small then the usual...

Any suggestion?

 

I've never used a keyboard cover, so I'm not sure what to look for in good ones, but this is the only thing I could find that's even close. As far as I can tell the P650RP6 and P650RP should have the same keyboard, but I'd maybe look into that just to be sure.
https://www.amazon.com/Transparent-Keyboard-Protector-NP8152-S-15-6-inch/dp/B01LWKIE6C

Eluktronics didn't seem to want to replace my display (or even acknowledge that it might have a problem). It seems that they would rather I just return the device for a refund which seems kind of weird to me. My screen isn't as bad as nasawhy's. I'm probably just being overly picky, but those lines would've driven me crazy. Not sure if I want to try again or just wait at this point.

 

Average GPU temps hover around 78C while CPU stays around 70C if I'm playing other stuff.

 

Anyone has a fix yet for adjusting volume while in game? Doesn't seem to work for several games for me. I have to alt-tab to desktop for the fn-vol up/down to work.

 

Mine works well, as long as I swipe in the exact way as I have swiped during calibration

 

No matter how hard I try (... you keep pushing me aside and I can't break through...) I just can't get more than 3 hours. I have it on MSHybrid, 50% screen, power saving mode everyone, even in nvidia control panel I made only the integrated gpu active as the global setting. It just wont budge from around 3 hrs, the power usage is the same regardless

 

Hey Guys,

Do any of you have any experience with re-seller Eluktronics? I saw there products on Amazon (5 star reviews) and went an spec'd out a P650 (see below) using there coupons available right now it came to only $1678, no tax and free shipping. Plus they are giving an extra year warranty and 30 day "No dead Pixel" gurantee for free.

I was planning on using Gentech, LPC or HID after great reviews on this thread but I just cant ignore the over $400 in savings right now. I think its a pretty good deal, questions are though about there own brand SSD and the thermal paste they use?

Any care to chime in on their experiences with Eluktronics, I'm a little anxious to part with my money not knowing much about them.

Eluktronics P650 Series 15.6-Inch NVIDIA® GeForce® GTX Gaming Laptop PC
Operating System: Windows 10 Home
Processor: Intel™ Core i7-6700HQ Quad Core
Memory (RAM): 16GB
Display: 15.6" 4K QFHD Anti-Glare (3840 x 2160)
No Dead Pixel Guarantee: FREE! 30 Day "No Dead Pixel" Guarantee ($25 Value)
Graphics Card: 8GB NVIDIA® GeForce GTX 1070 with G-SYNC®
Eluktro Pro Performance Solid State Drive (SSD): 512GB
M.2 SATA or PCIe SSD: (Primary Drive C: for OS if selected): None
Secondary M.2 Storage: None
Added Storage Options: None
External Optical: None
Warranty Options: 2 Year Eluktronics Warranty

 

I've asked xotic pc this question, but they are asking sager on my behalf, seems like an obvious question, let me ask you on this thread because some of you have the actual laptop: which parts are plastic? which parts are metal? obviously the top is metal, and the bottom? around the trackpad, is that metal? sides and back look plastic? If you could write up which parts are metal and which are plastic I would really appreciate that.

 

Finally ordered an NP8153-S/P650RS from LPC-Digital over the weekend. Went with the default CPU, 16 GB of RAM and the 120 Hz screen.

I made a thread about it on the reseller feedback forum which I'll keep updating.

 

I've been dealing with Eluktronics this weekend. I think you would have a better experience with the resellers who visit this forum. You should be fine with Eluktronics though, and it is a lot of savings. They told me the thermal paste they use is not any specific brand or anything special. Apparently if you ask them they can upgrade your thermal paste for a fee. My support experience was frustrating, as they didn't believe that my display panel could have a problem and told me to just return it. In the least they won't leave you with a dead machine.

Edit: Turns out there was some miscommunication in my support experience. I think it was an exception from the usual though. I don't think you can go wrong with any of the resellers, but I do think that the resellers who visit here would generally be a bit more aware of problems and such.