*** Official Clevo P65xSA/SE/SG / Sager NP8650/51/52 Owner´s Lounge ***

Question: Is it normal for the P650SE to ship with a Delta power brick instead of the Chicony?

 

They can ship with any brand that meets the requirements, delta are an excellent manufacturer of supplies.

 

I just bought a P650SE-S and I was wondering if this is normal. It looks like a crack but it doesn't at the same time? Is this normal? Can someone do me a favor and take a look at yours to confirm this is normal? It is right above the mic and webcam (arrow/circle in red). Thank you for checking in advanced!

 

I have a Delta adapter as well. It's strange, though, that is does not show the Wattage of the supply. Anyone know of an AC plug that will make the brick work the same way as a Magsafe adaptor?

Did anyone buy a separate AC adapter that is compatible with this notebook? I'm looking for a thinner lighter alternative that I can use when I travel. Something that will not melt or explode when in use. lol

 

looks more like a patch than a crack to me. mine does not have that though.

 

Wattage is never shown on the brick directly I stand corrected. It's Some bricks show voltage x amps I believe. For example, my old 220W power brick is 20v, 11A, for 220W.

 

it is P=IxV

I thought the Chicony brick shows the wattage.
Anyway, I still looking for something light and thin that I can use that is compatible with the P650SG for when I travel. There are a lot of 180W supplies out there and I don't know which to buy.

Also looking for a AC plug only (without a long wire) like the one on the Macbook of the Del XPS13

 

The chicony model does show the wattage indeed. I do not remember which one but a 150W smaller adapter was found working earlier in this thread, you can look for it.

 

This is probably a stupid question but what is the safest way to remove the larger black ribbon cable for the keyboard?
I can't see any visible catch as on the smaller of the two cables and do not wish to risk damaging it by being too forceful.

Image:
https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B99GIDjD6xqiWXdtLXdNdmNHWm8/view?usp=sharing

 

See image



There are two black tabs highlighted in yellow which need to be carefully pushed away from the white socket by just a couple of mm - best to use a small screwdriver of plastic tool. To fix the cable back in place, just reverse the process!

The keyboard backlight power cable (smaller one) just needs the white tabpulled up 90 degrees - it pivots in the middle of the socket whete the white tab meets the black socket as you have found. It is a different type of catch to the main keyboard socket.

 

Can anyone else confirm? I'm really hoping it's not something I have to send it back in for nor do I want that to break off.

 

Mine has it as well, I am guessing it has something to do with all the stuff that is at the top of the monitor there. Don't worry about it; it is clearly just part of the construction.




Also, does anyone else have issues with their GPU fans spinning up in a sort of "stuttery" way? I don't think my laptop did this when I got it, but now a lot of the time the GPU fans will spin up for a half second or so and then back down, and do this a few times before settling. This seems to happen most when I am changing the power profile and stuff like that, but it also seems to happen on restart as well.

 

Mine ramps up like that too. It goes wrrrrr, wrrrrr, then stops. Is that what you're talking about? I haven't figure it out yet...

 

Please remember that there are two kinds of bricks. One which is rated for delivered power and one which is rated for wall-drawn power. Make sure the brick you're getting is capable of delivering the full 180W to the system (I.E. drawing over 200W from wall) and not that it draws 180W from the wall. Also try to get similar voltages. If your default brick is 19.5v then a 20v or 19v should be ok, but if it's 20v don't get a 19v brick. Might be problematic.

 

For the "vrrrr vrrrr" fan noise.. It is normal, everybody has it (or has confirmed it so far". It wasn't fixed by the latest Hotkey version, maybe next EC?

Anyway, I do not know why it is here, maybe a gimmick to copy car tuning amateurs and make our machines roar at the traffic light...of our dorm room or library, which is pretty annoying.

 

Those are mold lines, also known as molding flash.

 

That's good information, thank you. It's like efficiency ratings in PSU.

 

Does this laptop only come with old dos-like bios? or can we have something like UEFI found in most desktop motherboards that support mouse input? Additionally, does anyone else have issues with the screen dimming adjusting brightness by itself even though the adaptive brightness is turned off?

 

Its just the old school style. Most notebooks have the BIOS pretty locked down so you can't change much anyway.

 

You need to turn it off in the intel gpu control center in power savings.


@Mjolner

The fan ramp up is due to hotkey software as far as i can tell....due to the fact that each power profile has a custom fan profile attached to it.

So every time that you change the profile or restart the computer the fan profile will be reset/changed.

 

when i remove my heaphones and then insert them again via h/p jack the sbx prostudio settings always reset . all other settings remain the same though. ive tried and saved profiles but the same thing still occurs. the sbx settings for the onboard speakers are retained though even after using headphones or a usb dac. is there a way to make the sbx setting for headphones 'stick'?

 

I can't say that I have a clear understanding about the responsiveness and sensitivity between Linux and Windows, but I could only imagine that synaptics own drivers are closer to what they intended for the hardware.

That aside I think Windows does a great job at supporting multi-gestures nowadays, but of course Apple is the king of that domain.

However I love to use the touchpad with Windows, I can write something with both hands and quickly change to another app or swipe a page back and forth or whatever.

Even when using the machine as a desktop, I tend to use the touchpad more, because it just works to well

 

Indeed

 

I don't know if anybody else had this problem, I read through the latest 30 pages or so to check, but sorry if I am repeating. I am having a weird issue with my sager np8652. It's been working fine since I bought it in February, but now occasionally the screen flickers and black bars appear going up and down the screen (I can try to get a picture of it if it would help, but it would be a little difficult). Sometimes it is just a quick flicker, sometimes it lasts a few seconds. I did upgrade my nvidia driver recently, so I think maybe that could be the problem, but I'm not sure. I tried to uninstall my old drivers, but when I went to install the older nvidia drivers i was using before, it says specified file not found. Anyway, any help fixing the driver install problem would be appreciated, or if anybody has any other possible causes of the error, I am open for suggestions.

 

Get a nice micro fiber cloth and wipe down your screen often.

The problem with screen protectors on computers and smart phones is that you lose up to 20% of the display quality when applied.

 

If we rush order the laptop through XOTICPC, will the testing time of the laptop be cutshort? Meaning, if we rush it, they won't be able to test it completely and hence standard shipping is better ? Is that correct?

 

Yeah I was talking about when the fans go "vrrrr vrrr" sometimes. I'm not sure it is entirely due to the hotkey software though, since it seems to happen sometimes when I am starting up, before the hotkey software has started.


Also, for anyone who is interested I just ran a calibration of the 1080p matte IPS display that sager offers (I have been told it is the LP156WF4-SLB5, but I'm not sure) with my Spyder 4, and it measured a 590:1 contrast ratio, 283 cd/m^2 max brightness, and 79% sRGB coverage. I'm not sure how accurate the brightness and contrast values are, but this display definitely has a bit less than 100% sRGB coverage, but not a huge amount less so 79% sounds about right.

 

Wow, that sucks for the sRGB then. The 72%, 90% and 95% TN panels usually have 95-100% sRGB when calibrated.

 

I think you should just download the driver directly as an executable from nVidia and then override the old settings or something in the installer. I'm not sure what you're talking about with the missing files. The installer should include everything, unless you got a bad download.
Do you know what file is missing?

The flickering should not be related to drivers though, I'm on the latest Intel and nVidia driver with no issues at all. Of course it's always worth the while to try and help the problem in software.

 

When in idle select the "customized" fan profile, it will shut down that vrr vrr.

 

For those like me searching for short AC plugs and cords here are what I found

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001HL84Z4/ref=ox_sc_act_title_4?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B006H5K6CY/ref=ox_sc_act_title_2?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=A8ZS0UANLEAA6

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00BHGY04I/ref=ox_sc_act_title_2?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER

 

I would like to know some undervolt/underclock results for the 4720hq processor, can anyone who has tried this show his/her results?

 

Here are my settings, stable.

Did not try to underclock as I do not need it much

 

Thanks, i've ordered two 970m models(one for me, one for a friend), and i'll see what i can manage with those once they arrive.

Any info about overclocking the 970m gpu?

 

Undervolting is different per machine. You may want to try settings and adjust over time through thorough testing. Sure jack's settings works for himself, but if you try it, highly likely you will crash.

Overclocking the 970M 3GB version should still be able to put you almost on par with 980M 4GB.

 

It's really not that bad. My previous laptop had 54% sRGB coverage AND was a TN panel with the worst viewing angles known to man. The colors on the P650SE panel aren't as good as those on my U2713HM and there is more ghosting in games, but it also isn't a $600 monitor. For general use the IPS is a very good option as long as you don't need to do photo editing on it.

 

But the TN panels currently available/in-use are 72%+ NTSC and 95%-100% sRGB, so the IPS panel is in fact a downgrade, inclusive of the worse response times. The only benefit is the viewing angles. I don't get why the current IPS offerings are a good idea knowing this. Maybe if the only downside was the response times, and the colours were more or less the same but with better contrast, then sure. I'd understand.

 

Did anyone here experience stuttering in games. Similar to lag? I am playing D3 for over an hour to test temps and notice that the game is stuttering a lot. Feels like watching stop motion animation.

 

Did you update bios, EC... To versions more recent than the one that are provided default with the laptop?

 

I got the Samsung PLS panel, and maybe it's because I'm colorblind, but I find the colors to be perfectly acceptable, and have no problems with response times either. It's hard to put the difference into words, but to me it's almost like the difference between printing a picture on high settings on plain card stock vs printing it with medium settings on satin photo paper. You might have more accurate colors on the card stock, but it still looks a lot better on the photo paper.

 

no because I am waiting for a reseller version as I have read you can't flash the reseller version when you flash the stock clevo bios.

Here is another weird thing happening: fluctuating temps and frequency in the gpu.

 

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B006H5K6CY/ref=ox_sc_act_title_2?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=A8ZS0UANLEAA6


[/QUOTE]

Ironically, the Amazon UK site doesn't seem to sell that plug! :-(

Shame, as in situations where I don't need the long cable, it would be more suitable

 

But have you tried say... the 95% gamut AUO 15" TN panel? I'm not trying to say that you can't be happy with what you've got. I'm just saying that most of the IPS panels that are being sold for notebooks right now are not very good quality panels, and there are TN panels that have better colours out there. But people do not care, because "IPS" or "PLS" makes them instantly wish to discard anything "TN".

My original point was that users who are willing to take a low-quality IPS panel over a top quality TN panel simply because it's "IPS" aren't doing any kind of thinking.

 

Indeed, I have not. And unless there's a system out there that would have that screen and be on display at MicroCenter or Best Buy, it's unlikely I'll be able to see it, either. Wish I could, though - it's always interesting to see first-hand how things compare. I did see some videos on YouTube showing a 90% and a 95% TN screen, and it is interesting to see how much noticeably better the 95% screen was.

This is true. I put a lot of consideration into my choice, but the color gamut was never that significant to me (again, colorblind). Seeing those videos, I'm wondering how much of the difference I'm seeing between the stock 45% TN panel and the 60% PLS (IPS) panel is due to the manufacturing technology, and how much is due to the gamut. Maybe if I could go back and do it again, I'd give the 95% TN panel a chance.

 

So nvidia released g sync for some laptops, I wish somebody can make it work on the p65x's / p67x's

 

That´s a no go because of Optimus.

 

???? Optimus doesn't have anything to do with G sync

 

You have to be directly connected to the dGPU which means no Optimus.

 

Yeah, just read that part, sorry my bad.

 

It's disappointing yeah, but viewing angles are a huge deal to me. My last laptop had viewing angles so bad that you couldn't look at the screen without having tint shift between the top and bottom of the screen.

Do you know what the viewing angles of the compatible TN panels are? Also can you point me to tests that verify their color gamut? Also do you know what the contrast ratios are? The IPS panel I got has pretty good contrast and pretty low levels of IPS glow and backlight bleed compared with even desktop IPS monitors that I have had.