*** Official Clevo P65xSA/SE/SG / Sager NP8650/51/52 Owner´s Lounge ***

The unlocked 6820HK is a nice addition too.

 

No i5cpu option :sad:

 

Each chip requires a different motherboard so it may be down to not having too many variations. It could also change over time.

 

Could you explain why the 6820HK costs more if intel decides they're the same price for the new machines?

 

I don't understand what you mean sorry, more expensive than what?

 

6700HQ is $125 "cheaper" than 6820HK for the refresh to these machines, but Intel says they all cost $378. Any ideas on why that might be? Or why the 6820HQ isn't a default option?

 

Probably same reason resellers charged extra to upgrade from 47xxMQ to 48xxMQ even though they're the same bulk pricing from Intel. They want to make money.

 

If the 4700MQ actually shipped at the same price you would have seen more 4800mq units.

 

That quantity price is also for 1000 processors too. The pricing might be different if you are buying a smaller quantity, which I imagine a lot of places do.

 

@octiceps and @wickette

Awww, you're killing my hopes. I want MB5. Stupid Creative, is it really that much to ask for a little bit of product support? I even wouldn't mind paying a small fee for the privilege of upgrading to MB5.

Speaking of MB3, I have an issue. I've installed the Windows 10 audio drivers but now I no longer see the option to load the built-in speakers profile in MB3, only stereo channel, which lacks the bass punch the built-in speakers profile had in Windows 8.1 audio drivers. Any ideas on how to fix?

 

Has anyone overclocked AUO B156HAN01.2 or has anyone tried to reduce the ghosting somehow ??

 

You can't due to Optimus. The Intel gfx driver won't let you. But apparently Intel finally got the wake-up call and is working to remedy that.

 

Howdy folks,

Up front - I recognize this post may be skirting the rules slightly - if the mods want me to remove this post, I will do so voluntarily. Just trying to help out the NBR community with a good deal... here we go:

A couple of months ago I purchased a Samsung LTN156HL01-102 (the matte version), to replace the LG panel that came with my P650SG. This was generally regarded as the 'best replacement display' for the P650SG (unless you were doing photo editing, in which case there was another display that had better color coverage). Notably it had the fastest display latency, which is why I bought it.

Long story short I ended up returning my P650SG :/ (I'll be a Batman 2.0 owner quite soon though... ), so I have the panel just sitting around and am now looking to sell it off (completely new, unused, removed from OEM packaging for a quick visual inspection then put right back in it and stored in a safe place). I can't post this to the NBR marketplace due to post count (<100), but have been a member of these forums for quite some time (and a lurker for even longer). I'm about to post the panel to eBay but figured I would give the good folks at NBR the chance to take it off my hands for less than I'll sell to the general public. (Bought it for $136, going on ebay for $126 + shipping (from Colorado), will sell it to an NBR member for $106 OBO + shipping, because I love you guys and want to recoup my losses )

PLEASE BE ADVISED: If you're thinking about putting this into a P650, you must must must double check you have an eDP interface (this panel is 30-pin eDP). I'd originally thought all P650s used eDP but it turns out that some of them ship with LVDS, depending on the panel stock available to Clevo the week of manufacture. I was unlucky and had received an LVDS-compatible mobo, and thus couldn't install the panel (moot point, I returned the laptop anyway).

Again, if this is a huge TOS violation, I'll remove the post. Honestly just trying to hook up the NBR community. PM me if you're interested.

 

I've heard so much great things about the Prema bios, but I dont know what I gain on flashing? I'm not going to overclock or anything, but will I benefit from it anyways? Better temp regulation / fan speed or something? I use my computer mostly for gaming. Thanks

 

I'm not from the US so I cannot buy it. Just a question, how can you check if your laptop uses eDP or LVDS ? Do you have to open the screen to see it ?

 

eDP and LVDS can actually share the same cable, so visually it may be hard to tell the difference. I'm by no means an expert on this so perhaps someone else can help answer your question. But the one way for sure to tell would be to open your laptop and determine the exact model number of your panel (there's almost always a sticker or etching on the panel itself listing the part number), then look up the spec sheet for that exact model on panelook.com

Again, there may be a way to ID the connector visually, but I'm not too smart on that. Also beware of simply looking at the advertised specifications to find the panel's model (or similarly looking at a review laptop) - as I discovered, the exact same laptop SKU was sold with two entirely different interfaces.

 

From what I saw in HTwingnut's video, you will only know if you open your laptop and take a look at the connector on the mobo.

Sent from my ONE A2003 using Tapatalk

 

You can find out your screen model and look what connection it uses.

 

Hi all,

I have a P651SE (XMG P505) since about 1 week now. I have installed Windows 10 Pro on it. Problem I have is that the internet connection is very unstable and slow. At first I thought it was AVG, so I switched to Webroot Secure Anywhere. Same problem. Even with webroot disabled and malware bytes disabled, still have the problem. The connection just disappears, the network connections are dissappearing from the list only to return shortly after. Today I installed the realtek LAN drivers and Intel WLAN drivers that came with the laptop, but the problem remains.
While doing a speedtest, I only get about 50% of my internet connection speed (30Mbit from 60Mbit). Upload speed is very unstable.
On other devide internet works fine. Is this some kind of windows 10 issue? Anybody recognizes this? Since it's affecting both the Intel WLAN and realtek ethernet, it doesn't look like a hardware problem at first?

Thanks,

Opper

 

What wifi card do you have on your laptop?

 

Whatever the card is I would suggest getting the latest drivers for it.

 

Intel AC-7265, the dual band thing.

 

The drivers that came with the laptop on the usb stick were from end of august and newer than what's on the XMG/mysn website.
Just downloaded the latest and greatest from Realtek/Intel. At the speedtest I am now getting the full 60Mbps, so that's one thing that looks better already.

 

Looks like I am ahead of Intel with my drivers. Screenshot from Intel Driver Update tool:

 

I got a AmazonBasics Ventilated Adjustable Laptop Stand and it works really well for the NP8651. The feet of the laptop sit right on the edges and the tabs at the bottom are shorter than the laptop so they don't stick up. The crossbar covers the fans just a tiny bit. I haven't done any heat tests but I'm sure it's much better ventilated than when it's sitting on a desk.

It seems really well constructed and sturdy. I was a bit worried the laptop wouldn't fit very well but I couldn't ask for it to be any better.

 

Hey, all, long time no see... anyone have any problems with the touchpad becoming permanently disabled and the keyboard frequently missing/dropping keystrokes? I've had problems with the space bar not being recognized for a while, but it was a mild annoyance, but a few days ago the touchpad got stuck off, and now the keyboard seems to miss or drop about 1 in 20 keystrokes, not just the space bar.

By "stuck off" I mean that even when I press Fn-F1, and the hotkey tool pops up the "Touch Pad On" and "Touch Pad Off" messages, the touchpad is not responsive to input, neither finger drags nor taps.

The keyboard behavior is irregular, but unless I type with a very heavy hand rather slowly, the keys I press don't result in characters on the screen. I spend more time correcting than I do typing.

For example, here's an uncorrected block of typing at my regular speed with regular pressure:

My cat did walk across my keyboard around the time this started, but I'm not aware of any key combination that would result in this behavior.

My first - only, I guess - debugging step was to reinstall all drivers, but that didn't solve anything.

 

Hey guys I am having an issue.

I want to disable my 980M while I am at school so that I can extend my battery life, I am using the Prema Mod BIOS and vBIOS however am experiencing an issue.

When I do disable the 980m in the BIOS and boot into windows its all good, however once I put the laptop to sleep and turn it back on, the keyboard doesnt work so I am unable to enter the password and enter into the OS.

Do you guys know why this could be happening and what the solution to this is as I would like to extend my battery life as much as I can.

 

In addition to disabling the GPU also enable ASPM and set it to L1 (not sure if L0 works, only few boards support it. If it doesn't you may have to take one RAM out for one boot in order to reset the BIOS).

 

In the nvidia control panel set it to always use the igp and the dgpu should remain asleep. In that state the impact on battery life should be negligible.

 

So I have my left click touchpad button not working, showing up always clicked in synaptic driver icon (same issue that Lonewolfs sometime ago).

According to him it is caused by dirt in the touchpad button mechanism, so it has to be cleaned. As I cannot part from my laptop right now, is there any teardown guide for this model that goes as deep as the touchpad? Any time I did disassemble my laptop was for repasting, so I am thinking how to do so.

 

I've been having an issue with my P650SE over the past week where the speakers were randomly cutting out after a few minutes of use. There didn't seem to be any relation to anything i was doing on the laptop and when they were cutting out, it appeared to be completely random, often when i was listening to music or watching a video.

The only way to make them work again was by restarting the entire laptop. On a few occasions, toggling the speakers between enabled and disabled under Device Manager also seemed to sort it.

To solve the problem i tried installing the Realtek audio driver from the PC Specialist website, as previously i wasn't using any drivers for the speakers. Unfortunately this stopped the sound altogether and i couldn't get the speakers working at all. After a bit of playing around, uninstalling and reinstalling, i managed to get the speakers back with the Realtek driver but the same thing was still happening where the speakers were cutting out after a few moments.

Since then, the problem has worsened and the speakers haven't done anything for the past couple of days, i have tried doing the drivers again but there's no sign of life from the speakers at all. I think there might be a physical problem with the laptop because i tried booting into Arch Linux and Ubuntu, and they didn't work there either. If the cause of the problem was something to do with the drivers in Windows, then it wouldn't affect any other operating systems on the laptop.

Can i ask whether anyone has experienced a similar issue with their P650? I'm very reluctant to do a return because i can't be without my laptop for any lengthy duration of time, so for this reason i'm hoping that the problem could be sorted by myself at home. It's a bit of a nuisance because i've only had this laptop for a month and there's already an issue.

 

Do you have the issue with the sound cutting out when you are using headphones? That might give you an idea if it is software related, or maybe isolated to the speakers some how.

 

Thanks for the response. The problem only happens when using the speakers, playback through my headphones is perfect. So unfortunately, i think this indicates that the issue is hardware related which is a nuisance.

 

Now that I have all the latest drivers, I have the problem that Clevo Control Center won't start anymore.

"Control Center has stopped working".

It's the latest version from Clevo website: 5.0000.00.11.

Anybody knows how to fix this, or an alternative way to control the fan profiles / speeds?

 

I had the same issue before but now it has gone. I'm not sure how I fixed it because I tried a lot of methods, one of this is installing the Clevo Control Center (I didn't use it before). Maybe you should try CCC if you have not done so.

 

I have a Sager NP8651 I bought from XOTICPC earlier this year and it ran great for a long time, and still does. Problem is it started to get really hot (nearly 100 C) under stress. This also seemed to do something odd to the W key on the laptop. If the temperatures were somewhat high and the W key was held down long enough, it wouldn't register as released for about a second after it was physically released, and it didn't seem to be sticking or anything either. I assumed it has something to do with the temperatures and I had been planning to do some basic maintenance anyway, so I open up the laptop, remove the heat sinks, clean out dust from fan exhaust grills (heavily clogged, probably a large part of the problem), repaste both CPU and GPU with some MX-4 I had left over from my desktop build, and put some dust filters on the outside intake vents to prevent future buildup, and closed it back up. After starting it back up I was happy to see it idling at around 55 C and just grazing 70 C under stress. The issue seemed to disappear at first but it came back not too long afterwards, albeit to a lower degree, but even having a half second delay on releasing the W key is irritating at best, especially in the case of Counter Strike where it makes it difficult to control movement very well after running for a while. I also popped off the W key cap and checked underneath but it didn't seem like there was anything wrong. The issue disappears if the W key's function is bound to any other key as well.

So my questions about this are has anyone else had this issue, and if so have you found a solution? Also, if this can only be fixed by replacing the keyboard, is that covered by the default warranty, and would it require me to ship the laptop in for repairs, or could I just be shipped a new keyboard and replace it myself and send back the original? I would prefer not to send in the laptop for repairs since its the only portable PC I have and I need to use it quite a bit, but I can still send it in if necessary. If this is not covered under the warranty, where can I go to find a replacement keyboard, preferably even a better 3rd keyboard (if I have to pay for a replacement I may as well get a nice replacement :3) that still fits this laptop? Thanks in advance.

 

Mine is 3 weeks old. As soon as I start a stress test it hits 100 degrees almost instantly.

 

Should be a heatsink issue, or just a bad thermal paste.

 

I would think the keyboard would be covered under warranty if it isn't working right. Contact our service team, and they should be able to help get a different one. If you are comfortable with changing it out yourself, ask them if you can cross-ship one out, and I would think we could do that.

 

Thanks, I'll look into doing that as soon as I can. I would definitely prefer to replace it myself, the keyboard seems to come off quite easily anyway. Less down time is always better!

Yeah the thermal paste did seem a bit shoddy when I repasted mine, you could try replacing that if you feel comfortable doing so. I would recommend repasting any computer once in a while anyway.

 

Does anyone know how to raise the polling rate on windows 7 to 500 or 1000hz? I know I may need to disable usb 3.0 but can't for the life of me find the steps for this.

 

What device are you trying to do it for?

 

Mouse

 

Might be less hassle & safer to just buy a cheap gaming mouse! (almost all gaming mice now come with 1000Hz standard).

 

I'm not sure if it works that way, I would think the usb port's polling has to be raised but this can only be done with usb 2.0. I have a decent mouse but I suspect the polling is at 125hz.

I have read that some have had success disabling USB 3.0 via BIOS and/or uninstalling the driver for Intel USB 3.0 eXtensible Host Controller but I can't find this option in Prema BIOS and when I try to uninstall the driver I lose all USB functionality.

 

Damn, USB port overclocking. 1337 g@m3r 360NoScope status. Intense.

 

It's not a big deal for me, was curious if it was possible. Your comment makes you come across as a jerk.

 

Why so serious?

 

No Joker picture? For shame..

 

Joker is a lightweight