*** Official Clevo P65xSA/SE/SG / Sager NP8650/51/52 Owner´s Lounge ***

Hi, can I disable the GTX970 graphics card from bios?

My Computer Clevo P65/P67SE

 

you can disable it in device manager (windows)

 

This may lead to it being powered on however as the drivers are not working properly.

 

Yeah the GeForce is powered down unless you run a program that the NVidia drivers recognize as something that should be run on the GeForce instead of the Intel GPU.

 

help reset the bios, I modified in the bios "Launch Video Oprom Policy", now black screen.

Solution?

 

Have you taken the CMOS battery out (system battery and AC too ofc) and left it for some time?

 

edit

 

Thanks resolved.

 

It helps others if you share your solution. Though I would avoid changing more other options without understanding the implications of doing so.

 

I applied your advice, I disconnected the CMOS battery (it's under the keyboard) + notebook battery, disconnected for 15 minutes.

 

If your system has that slot, you can simply install an M.2 3042 LTE module such as this one: https://www.qualcomm.com/products/snapdragon/modems/4g-lte/x5

The Antennas are provided by default, even on much more modern Clevo chassis designs.

No drivers are required, as they tend to work out of the box, both on Windows 10 and Linux.

 

Hello guys, I have a problem. I broke the display on my p650se, but could not find the original panel that was in it (samsung ltn156hl01-102), I found only 104 model. Are they compatible?

 

Check them on panellook, if the details match then yes.

 

Where to obtain the latest drivers for my XMG P505 / P651SG? The official site only has drivers from 2015, which is very old:

https://www.mysn.de/driver/1_XMG/XMG_P505/Drivers/Win10/
http://www.clevo.com/en/e-services/download/ftpOut.asp?Lmodel=P65xSE&ltype=9&submit=+GO+

I think the driver support from clevo is very poor as there are no updates?
The official CCC version doesn't work on my laptop, it just crashes when started.
So I had to download a newer version from another laptop model to get it working.

The reason I'm asking all this is that since a couple of weeks, I think since the windows 10 updates of October 10th, my p505 is constantly having the cpu fan turned on.
Alsmot at full speeds while I'm doing nothing, only internet browsing.

Any thoughts? CPU usage is low (~10-15%) so I'm not sture why it's turning up the fan so much.

Power profile is set to quiet.

 

What temperature is the CPU at?

 

Does anyone know what is the thickness of these thermal pads?

 

I've updated all my drivers using DriverEasy (there are lots of these free tols) and the problem is gone now. Laptop is back to original noise level, which is OK-ish.

 

Get a 0.5mm and a 1mm pad and stack if needed, it's not more than 2mm.

 

Thanks. I opened her up and the blue ones are 1.5mm, while the gray one is 2mm.

 

Hello everyone..!

I just bought a LG OLED tv... It runs at 3840x2160 at 120Hz. I have a P670SG (i7-4720HQ, 980m).
My question is, would it be possible to run the display at 4k 120Hz from this laptop? Display port or HDMI?

P.S. LG OLED 55C7P is $1550 for an open box on Amazon USA.


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That TV is 4K @ 60Hz. There is no 120Hz UHD TV.

If you plug the TV into the laptop's HDMI port, it will run at 30Hz due to HDMI 1.4's bandwidth limitation. If you get an mDP 1.2 to HDMI 2.0 adapter, you should be able to run 4K @ 60Hz

But you will not be able to playback content encrypted using HDCP 2.2 copy protection, and the TV will not run in HDR mode, when it is connected to the laptop. Also you won't be running any recent games at 4K 60 FPS on the 980M. So for entertainment purposes, the TV is a bit wasted on this laptop.

 

hello guys. i tried to clean my keyboard but cant seem to reattach the backlight cable of my 8652. i usually take a picture of stuff im about to disassemble but the cable disconnected before i had a chance to do it.

can someone show me a pic of how its supposed to look like with the lock attached (the pic in manual too small) and general tips on how to reattach it for guys with big, clumsy hands

 

TVs can often quote repeated frames or interpolated frames as extra Hz even though it's not really any smoother.

The cable above should be lift the black latch, push the cable in and close the latch.

 

Yeah I was talking about the true refresh rate.

 

I am tempted by the OLED TV too but saving up for a house makes that a little tricky to justify

 

Thank you for the quick response...!!

I am getting an xbox one x for 4k HDR gaming. Mostly will be using it for streaming directly from the xbox or the inbuilt apps.

Would have been nice to be able to have my laptop display in HDR on the TV.

Thanks again..!


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Perks of being single and independent...


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I bought one of the LG OLEDs. It's pretty sweet. I bought it for two reasons. 1) Most of the games I play benefit greatly from excellent black level. 2) Extremely fast response time. I don't like LCD pixel response blur with games. I replaced a plasma and didn't want to downgrade that aspect.

The OLED perfect black brings an interesting new issue though. You can see how games often don't produce the greatest shading without banding, especially in dark games. The not-so-black-blacks of typical TVs hide this to a degree like a form of dithering. Film has lots of dithering/noise/grain to help with this.

 

Mortgage
Car repayments
Life Insurance payments
Health Insurance payments
Kids college fund
Monthly bills
Retirement savings

 

My health insurance is like £45 a month to cover both of us so the mortgage is covered if something happens so at least that is something

 

I've been having temperature problems with the CPU in my P650SG. Lots of throttling. I've tried a few different thermal pastes but nothing has changed the temps.

Today I decided to try some Coolaboratory Liquid Ultra in it. I have the stuff from delidding my desktop 7600K. It's scary to work with, but what the hell. It's also incredibly effective. I got a major temperature drop. We're talking going from throttling in Prime95 with only 2 threads to no throttling at all even with all 8 threads going. I don't think the fan even hits the same speed as before. I figure my heatsink contact / pressure just isn't good enough for regular paste to work properly.

I did some research on how not to blow the laptop up via electrical short. I put clear nail polish on the Haswell FIVR capacitor/resistor bank and used electrical tape to seal the sides of the CPU package perimeter to protect from stray flecks of liquid metal. Some people have actually gotten the liquid metal under the CPU. I finally applied Liquid Ultra to both the CPU die and heatsink.

 

Did you use cotton swabs to apply it? I also thinking of using liquid metal soon on my first ever repaste.

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No, Liquid Ultra comes with 2 brushes and they work great. 90% alcohol even cleans it up. You do need to be careful though, with how you brush, so as not to splash any of that metal around. You can kill your notebook if specks of it get thrown around inside.

Be aware that this stuff's longevity is a question mark. It changes over time when in contact with copper. They slowly interact. It becomes more of a solid material, and to remove it from the copper you need to use the included abrasive pad. Basically sand it down.

Of course you must never use it near aluminum.

There is also Liquid Pro and that material is much more difficult to work with. It's the original formula of their liquid metal.

Oh and also I found that the notebook still throttles. If the GPU is also throwing out heat, the CPU heatsink just isn't enough to keep the CPU cool with that extra hot air around it. I looped some 3DMark with sensor monitor in the background.

 

I went back in and removed the Liquid Ultra. I just don't like how it slowly reacts with copper. I saw a Youtube video of someone who ran into overheating problems down the road because the stuff had become hard and lost conductivity from copper gallium amalgamation.

So instead, I've gone in and done what I like least. I lapped the CPU heatsink.

This has brought temps way down with plain thermal paste. It's staying under 90C much of the time with Prime95. The CPU heatsink was concave in the center, so the contact with the CPU was mostly at the edges. Regular thermal paste performs terribly with any significant gap (ex Intel delidding). Liquid Ultra is also a bit like making a perfectly flat heatsink. It's too bad that gallium / galinstan should probably only be used against a nickel plated heatsink.

 

Which Prime95 did you use?

 

It's the current one. 29.4b5. I guess you're thinking of how it's using AVX2 these days? HWInfo says the CPU is using around 46W, which I think is the power limit. Though I have a feeling the CPU would hit that limit without AVX2. Good old 3DMark Vantage's CPU tests can get it hot enough to throttle, though that is with the GPU also kicking up the ambient air temp.

 

is there any way to control the fans outside of the fn+1 combination? the laptop will barely go above 60% speed and ends up thermal throttling. using grizzly kryonaut as paste and heatsinks are clean, fans have no trouble going 100% when i use the key combination, it just has very lackluster control scheme for it.

 

There is a program called Control Center Utility on the Sager download page for NP8652 that has some fan options, but I've heard it can cause fan control problems too. I've also read that if you install it, you will need to reinstall/reimage Windows to completely remove it. I've only tried it once long ago.

https://www.sagernotebook.com/drivers.php?cat=602

 

Guys, could anyone clear up things for me about NVMe drives? I do own a P670SE running Prema Mod since 2016, and I'd like to buy a PCIe SSD. A local reseller has a very good offer for a Samsung 960 EVO. I did some research, as if I remember correctly there are issues with boot when running NVMe drives on this model, though I couldn't find a very clear answer.

 

Yes the 46/47W is the power limit for the chip.

 

Interestingly, in 3DMark Vantage with HWInfo recording sensors, the CPU reports power usage up to 56W. The Intel IGP used up to 14W for some reason even with the 980M in use. The CPU tests use Physx so maybe something is going on there...

 

Default long and short turbo power limits for the CPU are 47W and 58.75W

 

Anyone else care to run 3DMark Vantage on the Extreme preset 1920x1080 and see if CPU Test 2 causes the CPU to run right up to the 99C limit? Let it run through the other 3 tests until it gets to that one so the notebook has heated up a bit. Have HWInfo in the background with the sensors panel open.

The nice thing about 3DMark Vantage and older is you can get the paid version for for free now.
https://www.futuremark.com/benchmarks/legacy

Hwinfo
https://www.hwinfo.com/

 

if that's the same thing as my P650SE only with a gtx 980 instead, then i can assure you an nvme drive will work. i've had the 950 pro in mine using prema mod's bios since pretty much the holidays last year and had no issue with it. just make sure it's in the m2 slot that's closer to the battery, the other one close to the edge of the pc is not compatible with nvme.my first window install on it was just a cloning from a regular sata ssd, but i've since then made a fresh install from a usb drive onto it and everything worked fine. if you need proof, just look up pictures i've already posted in this thread, even if some people still don't believe it for some reason... the only worry i have is that you want to install a 960 evo, are they any different from the 950 pro? besides the added speed i mean.

 

The 960 EVO is an improved controller paired with the 3D stacked NAND compared to the 950 pro.

 

Hey guys. Just wondering whether this is normal for my P650SG.

The wires inside the right hinge are exposed:

Spoiler

While the ones inside the left hinge are covered by a black sleeving:

Spoiler

 

That's just the display cable you are seeing on one side that is sleeved, the thin black wire for the other antenna is hidden by its colour.

 

Ah, so you're saying it's normal for the other antenna to not be sleeved?

BTW I did wipe the dust off the lid today, so the laptop doesn't look as disgusting as it does in those pics anymore.

 

Yes totally normal, nothing is loose or frayed.

 

I have narrowed down the problem I am having with the internal display not being detected:

When I boot up the laptop normally, without any external display attached. Everything works fine. Internal display is working.
I can attach external display via mini displayport, change between having duplicate view, extended view, pc only, external only. All good.
Windows 10 device manager is showing 2 monitors: Generic PNP monitor (=internal display) and Dell U2412M (external display)

I now shutdown the laptop with the external display still attached. Then I turn it back on. Now Windows comes up with only displaying on the external screen.
Just after turning it on, the laptop display works. But during the early stages of windows booting, it shuts off the internal display and only displays screen on the external display.
Switchting to "Duplicate" or "Extend view" doesn't work. PC Screen only doesn't work. Device manager only shows external monitor (Dell U2412M).
Intel grahpic options also only sees the external monitor.
Going to windows display settings and selecting "Detect displays" doesn't help either.

When I detach the external display, nothing happens. Internal display stays black.

Only re-attaching the external display or a cold restart without external display attached can now fix this.

Why the bleep is this happening?

I have all the latest drivers according to Driver Easy.

Should I install some kind of driver for the internal display to prevent it from dissappearing?