*** Official Clevo P67xRP6-G/P67xRS-G (Sager NP8172/8173) Owner's Lounge ***

I used XTU first but then swapped over to ThrottleStop. ThrottleStop seems lighter and more superior. There was an issue where XTU would mess with the NVRAM/Fan settings and people were having serious fan issues. ThrottleStop doesn't have those issues.

 

Havent tried ThrottleStop properly yet - gona monitor temps for now and see if simple undervolting does trick good enough. If will temperatures will still be too high - gona try out Throttle Stop extra options like triggers that activates different CPU "profile" to drop temperatures down (changing SpeedStep or turning off Boost if reach certain temperature on cores).
I guess ThrottleStop still needs to be started on PC boot-up to apply undervolt values and there some fixes with task try for it needs to be applied.
iXTU seems simpler and more effective for just undervolting - as you set up undervolt values and dont even need to start app again after reboots - "set up and forget" (so its kinda lighter than something you need to start every time) - unless you need to change them again. Changes made to CPU in iXTU gets caried over to other OS - like Linux - so changes values are saved in BIOS and you kinda nont need PREMA BIOS or any advanced BIOS...
Cant say nothing about fan issues yet - gona try out and see if i gona stick just to iXTU...

Undervolting by 0.130v gives me around 15*C drop on CPU while playing BF1 - conclusion i made after around 15minute playing - but cant say if thats under same room temperature that may affect that number... Extended gaming incoming... :0

 

BTW - nVidia WhisperMode is awesome

 

I need to give it a go but handing more fine control to the user is always a good thing.

 

Xtu services will running into the background, same as TS. But ThrottleStop is lighter and almost don't use processing cycles. You can always shut off TS afterwards when settings are applied @unclewebbs tool is amazing.

 

Is it okey to use there bios and bios tutorial: http://www.eluktronics.com/p650rs-g-p670rs-g-p670rp6-bios-update/
For any non branded P670RS-G machine ? . .

 

usually not a good idea. people have bricked their machines. contact your reseller.

 

Not an option as i buyed from notebookguru.de : SCAMERS : not supply any kind of warranty or support . . .

 

mmmm notebook grey market then??

They are a Germany based company, so time to work for your lawyer...

Also, you could try to contact Clevo itself to inform them about a company selling their products and not offering support.

Clevo provides this contact as Germany contract service center, worth giving it a try:

http://www.clevo-computer.de/

from:
http://www.clevo.com.tw/clevo_contact.asp?lang=en

 

So long as you are certain the model matches it should work, people have been bricking machines flashing between G-sync and non G-sync setups etc.

 

Cheers! ill try to email them see what they say. . need to order a spare part keyboard also,
My Bios is messed up, restart twice and on cold start it freeze/Hangs. , enoying.

 

That's really good mine is also from PC specialist but its the 15inch version

We have similar specs as well Core i7 6820HK + GTX 1070

Do you experience the throttling issue when you try to overclock the CPU?

The throttling happens in CPU+GPU workloads, you can try and monitor your frequencies once its past its default 3.2ghz(mine even down-clocks from the default 3.2ghz sometimes). The throttling shows up as 'EDP Other' on throttle-stop and Current limit throttling on Intel XTU)

 

Have you tried undervolting the CPU?

 

Yep Max I was able to get out of it was 3.3ghz and that's with a -145 voltage offset on the cache and core

 

Do you guys just use your discreet most of the time?

It might be nice to see / share some stable 6820/1070-80 oc settings.

 

I used Intel XTU to overclock mine. Did you change IccMax?? Changing this requires a reboot, and setting PL1 and PL2 without changing IccMax is useless... And overclocking without using a conductive TIM is also useless (keeping also in mind its cons.).

Max. overclock I was able to achieve was 4.2GHz Cache and Cores, with a light overvolt, and 4.1GHz Cache and Cores with a light undervolt. 4.3GHz was imposible because hardware that provided power to the CPU began to overheat at this point. Max. stable overclock I found (for the long run...) was 4.0GHz Cache and Cores with a bit of undervolt.

BUT, I don't think this notebook was ever designed to be overclocked, or at least to be overclocked to interesting values... This, of course is my opinion

Yes, I use always nvidia's GPU, but about 99% it runs plugged to AC.

 

What are yours specs?

And to note this throttling/down-clocking issue only happens in CPU+GPU workloads

 

This is what it's inside mine right now:

Chassis & Display
P670RS-G: 17.3" Matte Full HD IPS LED Widescreen (1920x1080)
CPU
6820HK
RAM
16GB HyperX IMPACT 2133MHz SODIMM DDR4 (2 x 8GB)
GPU
GTX 1070 - 8.0GB GDDR5
HDD
HGST Travelstar 7K1000 1TB
M.2 SSD Drive
256GB SANDISK X400 M.2 2280 (up to 540MB/R, 520MB/W)
Thermal Paste
ARCTIC MX-4
GIGABIT LAN & WIRELESS INTEL® AC-8260 M.2 (867Mbps, 802.11AC) + BLUETOOTH
OS
W10/Linux Mint 18.1

And when overclocked It had different:

Thermal Paste
TG Conductonaut

 

how comes you ended up swapping out thermal paste to arctic mx-4 and where you able to reproduce the throttling issue?

I can send you a screen print of it if you want to see it

 

Same here. Always discrete and 99% AC. Pretty much a portable gaming rig

Sent from my SPH-L720 using Tapatalk

 

Nice planning to repaste with some conductive paste. I'd be happy with the 4.0 maybr 4.1 you achieved. Same here always on discreet plugged in as intel graphics has some issues every now and then.

 

The screen print would help

My GPU died, so had to RMA my notebook and a new motherboard was fitted. MX-4 was the only paste I had lying around when I got it back.

Right now I can't reproduce anything my notebook doesn't like summer and needs a cleanup and new paste, which I should receive this week. It would thermal throttle if I pushed it right now.

By the way, I found my score for Time Spy running CPU at 4.2GHz and GPU stock:

https://www.3dmark.com/spy/591210

 

MX-4 ain't too bad a paste.

 

Yeah. Great paste for measuring the pressure between die and HS before you go with your preffered thermal paste.

 

For people always using sleep. Is it normal on occasion to fail to completely go into sleep? On occasion i find my nb still on after it was scheduled to sleep. The monitors are both off (tried reattaching the display port but it won't detect a sigal) and the fan is maybe going about 80% faily loud. I have to press the power button. It then shuts down and when i repower on its like it came out of sleep with everything the way it was?

 

Something, a background process or a driver will have kept it awake.

 

Telemetry

 

WTF.... any one ells getting the 0xc0000225 after installing the latest Creators build of Win10 ? . .
using the win10 update assistant , keep getting blue screen after install.. i have a fresh w10 Home installation on it. . says missing : Winload.efi . . . .

 

I always recommend new clean OS install when a new main upgrade comes. Aka install newest OS build. Possible fix https://neosmart.net/wiki/0xc0000225/

 

Would this show up in event viewer or something?

 

Not always, sleep can be quite a tricky thing sometimes. For humans and computers :/

 

The stock build can usually sleep without issues which would suggest not

 

Luckily it only happens on rare occasion. Maybe its a driver / update problem that hopefully sorts itself out.

 

Ok, had some time to clean and repaste and overclocked my notebook again to check this.

I've overclocked it to 3.6GHz cache and cores, with 150mV undervolt, and I've noticed it downclocks for an instant or two (one or two values logged) to 2.6GHz or 3.4GHz, but I've no idea why it does that, as it's not showing any throttle reason. I'm not sure if this is what you were talking about.

Here are two runs of Time Spy:




As you can see there's still a bit of thermal room for overclocking it further.





Here you can see the 3.4GHz downclock could be due to EDP/Other (or not... you can see Core 1 is not downclocking...), but no explanation for downclocks to 2.6GHz. Also CPU draws about 30W at almost full load, but when it downclocks to 2.6GHz it's using 10-20W (so it's not running under full load when downclocking).

But for the rest of the test, CPU holds 3.6GHz with GPU at full load. I'll check if it does the same while running stock.

Screenshot of XTU is from another run of Time Spy I ran later, to check if I could reproduce your problem, it shows the downclock, but no reason...

EDIT:

And it does....:



Appart form turbo going up and down, it downclocks to 2.4-2.6GHz at about the same time. So it might be a "feature" then?

 

Nope its definitely not a 'feature' and as you can see the burgundy bar shows the IA:Electrical Design Point/Other throttling

 

Well, I officially ordered my laptop a year ago today. Man I was so pumped when the NVIDIA 10 series GPU's were available in laptops, and so gutted when my laptop had serious issues (faulty hardware, then BIOS issues) for the first few months of its life. Looking back, I wish I had kept my old laptop a little longer and waited for the manufacturers to get really comfortable with the new designs. Hindsight is 20/20 I guess. Laptop works fine now, but that first impression really sticks with you. I'll go Sager again, but never again as soon as a new GPU is available. When is the 11 series out?

 

I'm playing watchdogs 2 and my cpu is throttling? Over 90c is this normal? What could be the cause?

 

Could be anything. Any chance of some graphs from monitoring programs during load to show what is going on?

 

What can i use to make a graph? Is this happening to anyone else playing a high quality game? As everything is stock. Using performance profile in ccc with auto fan. And the fans are really load during game play

 

OK did some searching and created some graphs.


Idle to Gaming start

Gaming

Quit Game


also there is:
* GPU = Dark Green

And Temp1 Looks to be:
* CPU

Thanks

 

Ok so it's just generally running warm rather than an instant hit. Have you cleaned out the heatsink recently?

 

So you think its running warm on idle? No haven't touched anything with the heatsink. Apparently it was suppose to have diamond compund when i bought it. If this is sort of normal for this model i might repaste but if this looks faulty I'd rather look into the warranty. If you know what i mean?

Or maybe it's a bios update issue?

 

Hold the fan from spinning with a thin screw driver and use compressed air to blow out the dust to clean it

 

Lol i use my friends air compressor when cleaning out the desktop. But i think there ain't much dust in this lappy.

I'll call up for a bios update and wait to see what other owners say.


Wonder if alienware owners get all these little problems

I'd like to hear from other owners about the temps they get when playing a high end game

 

The dust can hide between the fan and heatsink with the rest of the machine looking pristine so it's worth doing regardless.

 

I'll give it a go then

 

Alienware's never ending problems!!

 

Lol guess the grass is always greener

 

Let us know how you get on.

 

Anyone have any tips using conductive paste? Is 1gram enough or should i get the 5gram? And is that all i need or do i need to buy thermal pads too?

Hoping to do it this weekend