*** Official Clevo P67xRP6-G/P67xRS-G (Sager NP8172/8173) Owner's Lounge ***

First you need to make sure you are getting a good contact pattern with regular paste. Then you only need a tiny amount. Look at the threads of people using foam barriers to ensure no spillage.

 

Thanks I'm expirienced with arctic silver but this stuff is a new animal.

I've been researching online nut can't find any with a similar model. When i remove the heatsink what else will I have to repaste? I've seen AW videos that it's one piece.

So will I need to repaste the gpu and NB along with the gpu, if you know what i mean?

Excellent idea with the foam is that really necessary though as I've seen people just use electrical tape or esd tape. Bit worried the foam might melt?

After the paste is broken in does it harden a bit like AS

Also what do you think about cracking open the cpu and repasting the die?

Hopefully some more people using a similar/same model can post a guide

 

CPU and GPU both are on same heatsink - so you will need to repaste both...

 

No Northbridge?

 

Integrated in the chips now

 

Lol dude, now i feel old

 

Just the southbridge these days to add I/O on a 4x Gen 3.0 link to the CPU. It can run passive.

 

What did u mean about getting a good contact patten with regular paste?

Could u direct me to a good guide?

 

Due to the viscosity of liquid metal pastes they don't deal well with a large gap between the chip and the heatsink. You need to look at the contact pattern when removing the heatsink and ensure the contact is really good before moving to liquid metal is a good idea.

The mobile CPU range does not have a heat spreader to take off. Heat spreaders primary function despite the name is to actually protect the die from the pressure of large tower style coolers in desktops. Not a concern in a notebook.

 

If contact isn't good what are my options? Lapping?

Does it harden up after use?

 

It does slightly but it's still not to be trusted. If contact is not perfect you can try adjusting the mount to correct the issue. Usually lapping makes contact worse in low pressure mounts unless there is a bump of some kind causing an issue.

 

Interesting. Is there any detailed guides for applying this stuff?

 

In terms of the application see this:



Notice how small amount was used for such a large area.

 

I'm getting a very infrequent BSOD on my Sager (see signature) that is slowly driving me crazy. I found a Microsoft forum that seems to show it's an issue with Clevo, and not Sager in particular. It usually happens when gaming, but does sometimes happen when just consuming media or browsing the internet. Happens maybe once a month. Using the latest Synaptics drivers, but tried the older Sager drivers as well.

Any suggestions? Error codes and link to MS forum below.

Stop code: DRIVER IRQL NO LESS OR EQUAL
What Failed: SynTP.sys

https://answers.microsoft.com/en-us...g/6814d433-1c38-42d8-a423-4b70cc48ccc1?auth=1

 

New XMG Bios is out, anyone using it allready? txt refers "Microcode" WTH is that?

https://www.mysn.de/driver/1_XMG/XMG_P507_P707/BIOS/

 

Looks like there is another BIOS out since last week again. 1.05.09, from 1.05.08 the week before.

UPDATE: Spoke to Sager support and they have not received an updated BIOS yet.

 

So. i got win10 v1607 it looks like this will be the highest version working in a P670RS-G . . . .
Have tried to install the : Windows 10 Fall Creators Update , but it will end up with a BSOD with error code : 0xc0000225 winload.efi crashed :-
Any one lucky to get the v1709 working ?

 

I have the P650RS-G and I can confirm updated to the Fall creators update and it has worked fine for me. Update Ran smooth and its even faster so no the v1607 is not the last update because P670/P650 are similar

 

Lucky you then. . i use win10 Home . . might be some hardware issue then . . i will try to call Windows help desk. . bloody enoying

 

yh check your drivers as well they may be causing the issue

 

I'm on W10 home and had no issues with the update.

If you're having issues you cab try updating drives, or doing a clean install. I usually do a clean install once a year at least, but sometimes more for big OS updates.

 

well i have this boot freez after using driver boost 5 with Intel updates. . . might that couse the win10 update issues

 

Maybe but not sure what exactly that is

Sent from my SM-G935F using Tapatalk

 

Don't use those types of automatic driver update software. They're known to cause issues. I can personally attest to that. If you feel that you need one, check out the Obsidian one.

 

I put a base set on and then just update the GPU drivers typically if I am not having issues.

 

Agreed those types of software have always caused problems

 

What do you mean by optical out? Like does it need an optical cable or something? Like a TOSLINK?


Also, can these drive a Sennheiser HD650?

 

So riddle me this, computer people.

I have a W7 Pro key, and I want to install it on this laptop and then upgrade to W10 pro. It's an OEM key, so I haven't been able to just update my current W10 Home install. I've used Rufus to create a bootable USB, disabled UEFI in the BIOS, and stared the install process. I get to the first window and click on install, but then setup asks me for a driver which I don't seem to have and can't continue without. I've looked around the internet and people have had success by adding a USB 3 driver.

My question is where would I find a compatible USB 3 driver for W7 and this laptop?

 

Read http://forum.notebookreview.com/threads/how-to-install-windows-7-on-samsung-950-pro.785498/ as well http://forum.notebookreview.com/thr...are-free-edition.804247/page-99#post-10616328

 

You dont need to install Win7 - just enter your Win7 cd-key when you install Win10 and key gets upgraded when you go online... Worked for me year ago - like 5 month after free upgrade period expired... I logged into MS account during install process - so i didnt get any problem with win7 cd-key on win10...
Just be sure you using proper windows 10 version that qualifies for upgrade from your win7 version (no home to pro... etc)


My key is linked to Microsoft account now and after replacing motherboard everythings fine too with it

 

I tired that initially but it didn't work. Something about it being an OEM key.

Thank you, I got it installed...but now another problem. I had to disable UEFI to get 7 to install, and had to put USB 3 drivers into the install package. W7 Pro then installed with no problems. I formatted the HDD during the install process. I used the assistive technologies upgrade assistant to upgrade to W10, expecting to get W10 Pro. I signed into my MS account during the install process. However, when I look at the system properties it says I still have W10 Home installed. Also, when I reactivate UEFI the laptop cant find the HDD to boot from.

Where did I go wrong?

 

You do need to install it in the mode you want to run it in, it can be tricky to get 7 to boot from UEFI.

 

If your win7 cd-key/license is upgraded to win10 - you just need to format drive and install win10 again - but with uefi activated. Win10 will activate by itself when you go online after reinstall...

Leave cd-key blank when you install win10 again...

 

Turned out to be a bit of a mission, but got it sorted in the end...

https://www.tenforums.com/installation-upgrade/96577-upgraded-w7-pro-got-w10-home.html

 

Can we upgrade the gpus in these?

 

Nope!!

 

It's soldered in so no you can't.

 

Has anyone here replaced thermal pads on their P650/670 RS-G and if you have could you please say what size you used or what size is optimal

If anyone has the answer you are also welcome to say it

The reason for this is because I repasted with liquid metal but my temps didnt really drop(maybe only by like 2-4C) and I still get temps of up to 93C during load though the CPU is OC to 3.8ghz.

So was wondering maybe the thermal pads are causing the conductaunaut not to make good contact, or there is some lapping issue somewhere as I expect the conductonaut to do better. Any guidance advice is welcome. thanks.

@Meaker@Sager
@Mr. Fox
@anyone that can help

 

When you removed the old thermal paste, did you check how the heatsink fits on die? Did you check if older pads had good fit on components (Not too much compressed) ? And did you apply Liquid metal on both die and heatsink and with proper amount? I would open up again and do the suggested/correct steps.

 

did you check how the heatsink fits on die? Yep I did(I mean I checked the mounting hole and the points to mount, but I can always have another look though this would be my 3rd time)

Did you check if older pads had a good fit on components (Not too much compressed) ? Not too sure I can judge this properly but they did seem a bit compressed

And did you apply Liquid metal on both die and heatsink and with proper/ amount? Yep I did, I applied it twice even. First when I did it the first time, and second when I tried to do it again because the temps didn't drop.

 

Was not meant as you did not do a good job (sorry if I wasn't clear enough about this). But as an opportunity why the outcome don't came out as expected. Maybe for second time use a thin creamy thermal paste, even toothpaste for measure of the heatsink fit on die before final LM. Could be a uneven or warped Heatsink (Liquid metal ain't a good choice if If your heatsink isnt't in good shape). Or it could be too thick pads.

 

Take the heatsink off and take a picture of the GPU area and heatsink afterwards and show it so we can inspect it.

 

Alright I just got the 1mm arctic thermal pads am going to be applying it now, I will be taking pictures of before and after

 

Pictures of the gpu/cpu area and the LM after I just took it off

@Papusan
@Mr. Fox

Does anything look off?

Sent from my SM-G935F using Tapatalk

 

After change of thermal pads pictures

Sent from my SM-G935F using Tapatalk

 

What paste are you using again?

 

Its Liquid metal am using

 

For those larger gaps regular paste usually performs better. Try and experiment with maybe shaving some pads down to 0.5mm, especially closer to the cores.

 

Right so you reckon I should just switch back to normal paste

I had kryonaut installed before but I thought LM was meant to be better?

 

It is when it's in a super thin layer (single coat of paint on each of the heatsink and die).