*** Official Clevo P67xRP6-G/P67xRS-G (Sager NP8172/8173) Owner's Lounge ***

Did you check the PSU is ok? Does the light go out? Is the battery drained at all?

You probably want to speak to your reseller.

 

okay after being in other threads etc i finally confirmed the model so this silly medion is the p670rp6

things i noticed,

they supply the latest bios 1.5.07 on their website
but not the latest ec its still 1.5.02

flashing the actual latest ec didnt update it weirdly enough.


Also using throttlestop caused some weird cpu throttling issues/stuttering
Well at least the one with obsidian tools.

Like i launch world of warcraft a poorly cpu optimized game and my frames would stutter/ in 20+ player content under heavy load it would drop to sub 10 .

I was literally racking my brain on how to solve this until I started opening programs 1 by one on a fresh install dual boot since it didnt have the problem.
Just opening throttlestop would bug it out, it didnt even need to be enabled and also closing it would make it persist until reboot.

Like cpu loads would look the same but gpu loads would be halfed and it would stutter like hell

Also the cooling on this is pretty decent i only hit 60-70c under load with my Heating on at home ambient temperature is a good 10-15c higher than normal

I already pre-bought CLU /Pads/Tape so im holding out with it for now until then runs great

 

If you have more than one monitoring app open they can conflict.

 

Nothing was conflicting, I have just received this laptop so it was a fresh install with just obsidian tool drivers and AV.
It was annoying to the point where i just dual booted in a complete fresh install that just had the game install.

It worked fine, so i started all the tools stuff being install 1 by 1 until I pinpointed it being the stupid throttlestop conflicting. Even with it turned off just having it ran would cause system issues until rebooted.

 

i have a question about Keyboard removal: there are only 2 screws? - the ones that are visible on the bottom or there are few more inside?

Gona replace it tomorrow - as im getting "W" "stuck" and left Shift too. Stuck happens when you hold button for some time - and usually unstuck like 3..5seconds after release.

 

Yes, no more screws hidden, just be gentle.

 

Hello. I am experiencing crazy thermal issues on my laptop. Overwatch at min settings and i get GPU temps of 95°C. After a bit of playing at 30 FPS or less due to thermal throttling, my computer will shutdown. First thing I did after I couldn't bear it anymore was opening the back to check for dust, and there was some. After cleaning, temps dropped only to the 85-90°C. I even get thermal throttling playing CS GO.

Anything in particular I should look for? Thanks.

 

It would seems that your heatsinks are covered in dust and could do with a repast. My P670RG would heat up and throttle and shutdown if it temps was too high. I repaste and cleaned out the heatsinks and temps went back to normal, no more shutdowns.

 

Open it up and check, if a clean and repaste does not make a difference then it's likely a faulty heatsink.

 

Well my P670RS-G is crapping out on me, random shut downs/hibernations, upgraded BIOS/EC to 1.07/1.05 plus fresh Windows install but no change, the laptop will turn off ANYTIME randomly (in BIOS, booting up, sitting for 10-30 minutes), may be a temp issue but don't want to crack open and paste this thing constantly just to play some games, gonna get a water cooled desktop rig from Amazon since I don't want any overheating issues, got 2 awesome years out of this thing but sad it's over most likely.

 

You'll always get more out of a desktop performance wise. It could be a bad solder joint.

 

Yep, I am desktop for life myself after my experiences with overheating, etc.

 

I do tend to find desktops a little boring but they are easier to deal with on the performance side.

 

I had similar issues just now got my laptop back from warranty process. Issue was the motherboard.

 

It's likely a similar issue.

 

Who buys a new rig because they don't want to repaste, or at least try? Also, terrible time to buy as new GPU's are juuuuuust around the corner.

 

I did take a look at getting a 2080 but since I am in no rush for 4K settled for a 1080 Ti, everything else in my new rig is pretty good so only upgrade I will need to make in 4-5 years would be the GPU.

 

What sort of temps are people getting now? I've re-pasted with liquid metal (a few months ago) and I undervolt my CPU. When gaming for extended periods the CPU hovers around the high 78-80c and the GPU around 90c. I have the system set to 'entertainment' in the Clevo CC, and the fans then don't seem to spin at 100% under stress (which I'm OK with, I think). I will see temps drop by a 1 or 2c if I put the laptop onto 'performance' in the Clevo CC and you can hear an audible difference in the fan speed. I have the laptop raised under a laptop cooler.

 

Mine running Far Cry 4 (I know, not the most demanding game, but it's the only one I've got installed right now...) on my 4K TV (ultra, 4K, about 1hr, kryonaut, 6820HK & 1070, auto fans CCC, sitting flat on this table, about 1hr):

 

Nice info, what are the clock graphs like?

 

What does entertainment vs performance mode do? Im planning to setup my system again, will I be losing anything apart from lighting if I dont install the ccc?

Also is premamod available for us yet?

 

Mine runs a bit hot then, but it still a good deal cooler than before I re-pasted it.

 

Like this:

Sorry, forgot to mention that mine also has Arctic pads, and took care to leave the tightest fit possible between CPU/GPU and heat sink when changing pads.

 

So your around an average of 1560Mhz core clocks.

 

The average of the values higher than 1000 is exactly 1559.12, so yes, you guessed right.

 

Lol not bad from judging by eye

 

So arctic pads are similar to liq metal? I bought liq metal but never got around to applying

 

Which pads specifically?

 

No.

AFAIK the most thermal conductive material (for use on cpu/gpu cooling) right now is "liquid metal" which is some kind of eutectic alloy, most likely a variation of "galinstan" 16.5 W/m·K (gallium 40.6 W/m·K, indium 81.8 W/m·K and tin 66.8 W/m·K alloy). Conductonaut is supposed to to offer 73 W/m·K, so looks like an indium richer variation of this alloy (indium's melting point is 156.5985 °C, so it may not be that easy...).

Arctic thermal pads are 6.0 W/m·K, Arctic's paste mx-4 is 8.5 W/m·K and kryonaut is 12.5 W/m·K.

Now copper's thermal conductivity is 401 W/m·K, so the paste/"liquid metal" increases thermal resistance: the more you fit between cpu/gpu, the lower the performance of the whole system.

The paste is good to "fill" the space between cpu/gpu and heat sink. But the greater the gap, the bigger amount of paste needed, so in order to reduce thermal resistance, you want the heat sink to sit as close as possible to the CPU/GPU (having the other components in mind of course, again, "as close as possible" without damaging anything).

The pads are great to "fill" uneven gaps. The ones you find between VRMs and heat sink.

The "liquid metal" stays in place because capillarity/surface tension, so it's good to "fill" the gap between cpu/gpu and heat sink if this is small and even.

So in order to get the best performance out of "liquid metal"/paste, you must take great care fitting the pads; if these are not the right thickness, or the heat sink is slightly bent, the gap between cpu/gpu and heat sink may not be the right one.

And "liquid metal" is electrically conductive, so add that to the equation...

Hope the brick adds a bit of light here...

 

Liquid metal wont cover large gaps anyway, it does not have a high surface tension and is much more fluid than paste so does not fill gaps well.

 

Wow that explains a lot. I wonder if warranty is covered after apply your own paste? I seen a video of someone using cinductanaut on a laptop and he used some compressed foam to stop to leaking into other areas is that what you still the recommended method?

 

It is highly recommended - http://forum.notebookreview.com/thr...r-liquid-metal-safety-insurance-guide.817207/

 

Certainly for beginners who have not worked with the stuff and are likely to use far too much of it.

 

I've used Grizzly Aeronaut, Kryonaut and Conductonaut (which is liquid metal). Saw a good improvement from Aero to Kryo, but not much from Kryo to Conduct. If I could go back, I would have stopped at Kryo.

 

You may not be getting perfect contact if the difference is not as big.

 

Ok, got some more real world testing results:

I needed to render the preview of an animation, so I brought my notebook to my workplace and put it to some real world Blender rendering stress. This thing has been rendering yesterday for almost 8h non stop (100% GPU load for 2-3min, then a few seconds without load while the CPU gets the next frame ready for rendering); also no cooling pad or table with holes this time.

I took a screenshot when it had almost finished, showing the typical GPU clocks and temperature when GPU was under load.



Also this thing renders WAY faster on Linux; for the same frame, just changing the tile size to fit CPU/GPU:

W10:
->GPU: 2:32:93
->CPU: 9:55:20
->CPU (OC 4c. 3.9GHz): 8:10:77

Mint:
->GPU: 2:22:12
->CPU: 8:09:48

 

It could be the program is optimised for linux.

 

What sort of difference are you getting now? What were you expecting to get?

 

Mind posting your OC settings in Win?

 

These:



Unfortunately I ran later a fluid simulation, which crashed 30min later, so that voltage offset is unstable for my CPU on the long run. If I were to use those settings, I would need to try -0.07V, and most likely repaste with conduct. again (and then try to take it to 4.0 or even 4.1...); there's not much thermal room to OC with normal paste on this thing.

Those were just some fast 'stable' settings I tried when testing blender, prior to decide how to render... But could be a good starting point.

 

Or tag down the speed one notch, it's a tiny percentage difference.

 

Thanks. I'll try those setting and adjust accordingly

 

Try it with stock voltage and go from there.

 

how can i prevent the built-in battery from charging when plugged in?
is there a specific Windows setting or can it be done via registry?

 

It's handled by the firmware more than windows, I don't think you can.

 

I don't think you can completely stop charging but you can set it to only charge to specific percentage eg 90% and stop

 

how can i set such a percentage-step?

 

See section 5-9 of your manual, I'd advise giving it a good read though to familiarise yourself with all the features on your machine.

 

Would a 15mm drive fit in our laptops? I'm thinking not...

https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B01LZMUNGR/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s01?ie=UTF8&th=1

 

I'd like to know this too. Also thinking not though.

Would a 4th hdd ssd work?