*** Official Clevo P75xDM and P77xDM/Sager NP9758-G and NP9778-G "Batman 2.0" Owner's Lounge ***

Wow, that is a couple of hundred cheaper than what I paid at Pcspecialist! I wasn't considering an import because I thought you have to pay customs? Did you?
Sorry Meaker, I know you responded to everything, I just wanted to add a couple of things I had experience with...
2. I don't see the need for cooling the Samsungs at all.
4. Some have suggested some external battery packs on this forum that should work, but not through USB, but through the dc-in. With a heavy laptop and a heavy adapter, I wouldn't want to carry another brick around though
5. There is no Premamod bios for now, but tbh, XTU is doing a good job on it's own. I went straight to 4.5GHz, no problem, but I don't see the point in overclocking a machine that will just throttle the Cpu even at stock speeds with continuous transcoding. While on benchmarks you will get good temps when pushing only the cpu, my experience shows heavy throttling when both cpu and GPU are heating it to the max with Media Encoder for a few minutes. Depends on the project and your use though.
6. I got the Cooler Master Xl pad, but as Meaker said, it's cooling is so powerful that I don't see any real difference in temps because of it. Might be worth the peace of mind that you're not blocking any air vents and there is a USB hub and a cool Led light But the laptop is actually more quiet than the pad when in idle. I would still get it, it's like a throne for my Batman on my desk hehe

 

Arrives Monday so can't say with absolute certainty about customs but I'm 99.9% sure there won't be.

. With UK VAT paid already and inter-eu trading it shouldn't be anything.
Saved quite a bit in total between their prices, 10% student discount and I claim the VAT back through my business so very pleased.
I was looking at wired2fire.co.uk too since any warranty issues will be pricey for me now but hopefully I made the right choice.

I'm not convinced the SM951 needs the cooling either but with I have some off-cuts from thermal pads of varying thickness from desktop GPU waterblocks and I like the idea of it being "as factory" for some reason.
That could be interesting, every other month I have a 2 - 3 hour flight and carrying a brick the size of the current battery wouldn't phase me, it would just be tricky to change the battery in-flight.
I'm hoping I'll overcome most of the throttling issues by delidding but I suppose that'll be down to luck quite a bit too. Won't be often both CPU and GPU are fully maxed, at least for the the foreseeable future.

Thanks for the info! I do like the idea of a throne! I'll look into it but won't be expecting any cooling improvement. Hopefully. maybe, a little quieter at full tilt though.

 

Urgent touchpad help needed!!

My P751DM touchpad has some dead zones near the edges. The bottom 10mm of the touchpad is basically useless. The right edge is better than the bottom edge but worse than the left edge. The corners are worse, as shown below. Can you kind people please confirm? Should I RMA it?



While mousing, by the time I physically feel the bezel around the touchpad it's already too late, and if I was dragging a file the file gets dropped. I've temporarily attached a rectangle of sticky tape around the edges so I can find my bearings without looking while using the touchpad.

I'm already well aware that the touchpad edges can be configured to do a number of fancy things, I've already disabled all of that and the problem happens even if the driver is not installed.

 

Hi all,
Ive just installed a 2nd m.2. 850 evo ssd and its showing up in the BIOS but I cant seem to see it on My computer. Anyone know the reason why?

 

Maybe because it isn't formatted?

Try going into Computer Management => Storage => Disk Management so you can see the unformatted volume, right click on it, and format it.

 

Ahhh...ok, thankyou!!! I remember my old 840 SSD didnt need formatting but it looks like this one might. Ill give it a go tonight. Just getting ready to setup RAID.

 

You don't need to format it if you are going to RAID0 the 2 drives, just go into the BIOS and pair them into a RAID and the formatted RAID0 volume will be visible to Windows for install

 

Guys while you are online can you please answer my question about the touchpad? Please scroll up a few posts. I really appreciate it

 

I was waiting for someone with your specific laptop model to respond, but as long as you are desperate for any answer...

It seems to me you already answered the question yourself. You found the area of the touchpad controlled by the touchpad driver, and after disabling the driver that area of the touchpad is dead.

That's the answer

The dead part of the touchpad is dedicated to the function the touchpad driver enables, and that area is unavailable to the generic touchpad driver from MS.

 

Ahhh...cool, Ill wait until ive backed up my data then just do it in a oner.

 

It might be worthwhile to format the drive and test it now before putting it into the RAID. It's an off chance it's bad, but debugging outside of the RAID config might be worth while in case it is flaky.

You could copy the contents of large directories to the new SSD - filling it completely to make sure it's all functional, run disk benchmarks against it.

But, odds are it's fine, and if the RAID fails to build or you have install problems, you can back down to your backup image on the single SSD and test the new one then.

 

I think you misread my question. What I said is the problem happens whether or not the driver is installed. Which means it's not related to drivers. Which model do you have?

 

We can only go by what you say, what you describe, and this states it pretty clearly to me:

" I'm already well aware that the touchpad edges can be configured to do a number of fancy things, I've already disabled all of that and the problem happens even if the driver is not installed."

When you disabled the functions of that area in the driver you disabled the function of that area - making it dead even with the driver installed, that's why it happens whether the driver is installed or not.

Get it?

If you re-enable those functions of that area with the driver installed, does that area respond?

It may be some of the features are enough to make the area alive, experiment with which options for that area you like/dislike and disable/enable them, but don't disable all of them.

 

I'll give it ago to make sure its not corrupt first then. Need to dig out my manual anyway to read in setting up RAID. Im sure I saw something in there, might of been in ther sevice manual but I've got that knocking around somewhere too.

 

In the Synapctics settings I have disabled one-finger scrolling, which simply means the right and bottom edges are used for regular mousing instead. It does not mean that the edges become disabled. Even if I enable those functions anyway, the area near the edges is still unresponsive.

I'm under the impression that the actual active area is in fact smaller than the visible touchpad area, in other words, Clevo made the touchpad look bigger than it actually is, perhaps to make the laptop look more impressive, but significantly compromising ergonomics. Furthermore, the active area is not centred which makes the problem more noticeable because asymmetry usually stands out and is usually a bad sign.

 

It could be, but the area is suspiciously that which gets assigned to special scrolling functions, vertical and horizontal.

Maybe look for a driver update, and reset options to defaults?

It's pretty rare for an exposed portion of the touchpad to be inactive.

 

Exactly, that's what I would expect based on my experience with literally every other touchpad I've ever used. It's not a driver issue though, I'm sure because the the Synaptics configuration window has a touchpad monitor which shows that I can reach the edge in the software, but on the physical hardware my finger is not touching the edge yet. Which model of laptop do you have anyway?

I just did an experiment, I put a strip of green tape (in fact two strips stacked) about 5 mm from the buttons. If I touch anywhere below the tape, no matter how hard I press, the mouse pointer won't move. If I gently touch on the middle of the tape, even if I use hardly any force, the mouse moves. Meaning that sensitivity is not an issue but active area seems to be. The red rectangle represents what I have empirically determined to be the "active area"; notice how the red rectangle is deliberately not centred on the touchpad, so for example the right and left dead zones are different widths.



I just need someone with either a P7xxZM or P7xxDM to confirm. If it's normall I'll just accept it as a design flaw, otherwise I'll RMA it.

 

Just tried on my p750DM-G and the touchpad shows the same behavior. Odd I never noticed it before, but I usually use a bluetooth mouse.

Addendum: Also odd, when I'm using Firefox, when I scroll up/down and left/right on these areas, it does respond.

Addendum 2: I uninstalled the Synaptics drivers (19.0.24.1) through control panel and rebooted. The the aforementioned dead zones now work; however, scrolling on websites of Firefox using those areas not appears not to work, so it seems that it could be issue with Synaptics drivers relating to the touchpad scroll regions as @hmscott said.

Addendum 3: I reinstalled the Synaptics drivers 19.0.24.1 and same behavior again. It seems that it manifests most noticeably when initiating touchpad movements from those aforementioned areas; if you initiate movements on other areas, the cursor does seem to be detected by the "dead zones" (more consistently on the right and less consistently on the bottom) if you move into those areas.

 

I have a p770dm and have noticed similar behavior. Hadn't thought much about it till now. Hopefully it doesn't bother me now that's it's in my head. Most of the time I use a BT mouse also.

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-N910A using Tapatalk

 

Well at least I'm not going mad. Sorry if I've made anyone feel like the time they found out Santa wasn't real. I'll email Clevo about it so future touchpads don't suffer from this problem.

What's the word on the rubberised finish? I see it's been used since the P7xxZM series, but in my experience so far it's a stain magnet, especially anything oily, and then it's infinitely difficult to wipe off. Does anyone have any experience regarding scratch resistance of the rubberised material? The plastic on the underside of the laptop, by contrast, seems very tough, like you see on high-end Lenovo laptops, and is very easy to wipe clean. I don't understand why they didn't use this finish everywhere.

 

Yup, it's not a faulty touchpad, hust a feature of it. Why would it bother you, it's huge, and by the looks of your images you seem to have normal sized fingers lol Plenty of space to work on...

The finish is my biggest issue with this laptop. What's the use of having a fancy led keyboard if the bloody thing looks ugly and dirty all the time? And I'm a particularly clean person, I can imagine what it looks like with some geeks eating pringles and coke while gaming
I have a glass cleaner and a microfibre cloth tucked away in my desk and I clean it every couple of days with it. No scratches yet, but I would rather have scratches on it than dirt. In the end I might just use some fine sandpaper on it and spray paint it. I'm sure it will happen eventually when I loose my mind from cleaning it all the time.

 

Double post, sorry

 

Well let us know how you get on if you do

 

So I bent some pins and just received a replacement P750DM-G. But on the new one, some of the numbers in the SN on the bottom are P750DM0, while the old one was P750DMG. The box also just says P750DM and there was no g-sync sticker on the video card like on my old one. In the bios, the MB model says P750DM (-G), but the video card just says 980M.

Is there a way I can make sure this one is g-sync? Is there a way windows will show it?

 

Could you please tell me what this trick is?

Thanks


Sent from my GT-I9505 using Tapatalk

 

Max speed fans.

 

In NVIDIA Control Panel, under Display, there should be setting for G-SYNC, such as "Set up G-SYNC".

 

Set up g-sync is there. So I am good then?

Thanks.

 

I believe you're good to go (I presume the option to enable or disable G-SYNC is there and able to be checked or unchecked).

 

If the option is there then you are all set up to use it

 

You can also format it from the raid manager if you are in raid mode

 

What's the story? Did you get over the keyboard issue? Are you happy now?

 

Deleted

 

This is quite concerning. So what's the story? Did you RMA, or is this how the laptop is actually built?

 

The size discrepancy of the touchpad is problematic because by the time your finger starts feeling the physical edge you are alreayd off the "hot" area so if you were, say, dragging a file, it's easy to drop it in the wrong place. That's why I'd never buy one of those new fancy laptops that have the touchpad completely blended into the chassis, with absolutely no tactile feedback.

I love your "geeks eating pringles" example . The rubber finish is a pity because this laptop would IMO be absolutely perfect if it wasn't for this, and the touchpad thing. Some times I don't understand why desingers make such strange decisions. One possible reason is that nobody ever complained about this during the "ZM" iteration, so Clevo probably thought they had got it just right.

 

Where can I get a spare battery for the batman 2? @XMG don't seem to sell them.

 

HIDevolution has them. Email them for a quote

 

Has anyone noticed an infrequent flicker of the screen on their laptops? While I'm using it I'll notice it black out for the briefest of moments and then come back. Like the time it would take to blink. It's not bothering me but I'm just curious if anyone else has this. I'm noticing it even at 60hz refresh rate. 980m p770dm Running prema vbios with no overclock and it seems to do it whether plugged in or not. I notice it about once or twice a day in 3 -4 hours of use.

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-N910A using Tapatalk

 

I created an account here to find out if anyone else has started encountering random shutdowns on the P750 DM. They're not so random in my case anymore. The machine is essentially unusable. I've been troubleshooting for the past 12 hours or so.

The shutdowns started a few days ago. At first I thought they were flukes. They've been increasing in occurrence since then. As of today, I can't keep the machine running for longer than 15 minutes under any circumstance. I usually can't get it to boot without a lot of effort.

Getting it to boot usually requires unplugging and plugging in the AC adapter, removing the battery, and resetting the CMOS. In no particular order, and sometimes they aren't all necessary. Resetting the CMOS guarantees me another boot. It shuts down within 15 minutes or so regardless of whether I'm inside of an OS or not. If I make it into an OS and shut it down normally before it has a chance to shut itself down, it will boot again without any problems.

The machine isn't overheating. Temperature on the CPU are at 36-44, GPU 36, SSD 41. I used crystaldisk, cpuid, coretemp, and hwmonitor to compare temps.

The shutdowns will occur while sitting in the bios, sitting idle in windows 7, or even in a live environment (macrium reflect or memtest86). I also put in a mechanical drive with windows 10 on it. A fresh untouched known good install that I made when I first received the machine. They all suffer from the shutdowns.

Both sodimms passed memtest with no errors.

The machine suffers from shutdowns with or without the battery in and with or without the AC adapter plugged in. I've ran it in every possible combination of those two things. I figured it was the battery initially. It's not.

I've decided the problem must be hardware related. I've also decided that it's probably the mobo or whatever controls power distribution on the mobo. Mostly I was posting here to see if this is a known issue, if anyone else had experienced this issue, or if I was just unlucky. I really don't feel like sorting this out with the distributor, but I have no choice I guess.

 

Would it be feasible to use the laptop to run an external monitor and keyboard? In other words, treat it like a desktop?

I'm thinking of getting an ultrawide monitor and I don't want to build a desktop.

Any ideas and advice would be greatly appreciated.

 

It's feasible. Not cost effective though. I use it all the time with an external monitor and controller for gaming. However, it would have the benefit of being portable when taken away from whatever workstation your external display and keyboard are at.

 

Under what conditions did you 1st notice shutdown? installed anything in particular? how about the power button all is well with it? not feeling stuck or anything of sorts?

Memory speed? running with individual sticks?if you happen to boot into windows try getting logs

By reseting cmos i assume you mean nvram,if not try that,and go bare minimum disconnect/remove all none essential gadgets.

 

All is well inside and outside of the machine. It's pretty new and immaculate. No sticking of the power button. The first time I noticed a shutdown was while gaming. I assumed the game crashed, and dismissed it. I probably would have put more thought into it going dead rather than to desktop had I not been drinking. Then it happened again shortly after plugging in an HDMI cable to run to an external display. It happened several times while pushing that display the night. Unplugged the display and was able to game the rest of the night. The next day random shutdowns were more frequent. Yesterday they got to the point where the machine might as well be bricked.

I haven't installed any new programs or games in the past two weeks, and haven't changed any drivers. I keep the OS as bare bones as possible. I would notice if anything was there that I hadn't installed. I've also booted into 3 different OS's on three different drives (with the other drives removed) and still had the same problem. It's not software related.

I'm actually only running one sodimm at the moment. A single 16 gb 260 pin dd4 module. I refused to pay the price the retailer wanted for additional sticks, and I haven't been able to find any retailer selling consumer grade sticks at this point (not 16 gb sticks anyways). That was one of my worries and one of my go-to-possible problems. I don't have any other sticks to test with, but I can say that memtest86 ran 4 passes on it before a shutdown in a live environment with no errors. It seems far fetched that the sodimm is the problem, but it could be. All the symptoms point to thermal issues, but it just isn't the case.

I have booted removing all absolutely non-essential components in the machine. I've booted using 3 separate ssd's/hhd's only one at a time with different OS's on them. Same problem using live bootable usb sticks. A few hours ago I decided it could possibly be the GPU. I was considering removing it and trying again. I really don't want to go through the hassle of repasting after removing the heat sink though. I think it's pretty far fetched that the GPU is failing already. It's an 8 gb 980M just for reference.

I find it strange that I can make it a few hours while running memtest but only 15 minutes idle in an OS or hanging out in the bios or backing up with a macrium boot disk. I also find it strange that the problem escalated so fast after I first noticed it. Once it started shutting down on me, I went to my old machine to game and would wake up in the morning to troubleshoot more. Very few hours have been put on the machine since the problem manifested. The problem gets worse even with the machine off overnight and the ac adapter unplugged and the battery removed. It's baffling to me.

I haven't checked logs yet. I should have. I have to check and see what logs would be important and where to find them. A friend mentioned the same thing. And by resetting cmos I mean removing the cmos battery (watch battery) for a few moments so that it gets pissed and forgets whatever hardware fault is preventing it from starting. It consistently works, but it's not always necessary. I think there might be a button of sorts on the mobo that does the same thing without removing the battery. I remember back in the day on desktops you just had to move the little jumper and it would reset the bios.

Edit: I also don't know if skylake has any integrated graphics. So I'm not sure I can test by removing the GPU. And I also don't know exactly what you meant by memory speed. Are you talking clocks? I don't know. But like I said, it's tough to test with only one stick. All I can go by is what memtest is telling me. I'm also really curious if both fans should be running at start up. I've booted with the machine on it's side and the back exposed to see what the fans are doing. On of them doesn't spin on startup, but I can only assume that's intentional since everything is cool. I can force it to work at whatever speed I want with various applications. It does work.

 

I had random reboots after I tried to disable Cortana by deleting the related EXEs, but it seems yours is a different problem entirely. If the shutdowns don't occur at regular intervals it could be a thermal / mechanical issue.

You could try:

• Replacing the CMOS battery
• Re-sitting the CPU etc.
• Re-flash the BIOS

 

After you reset cmos,then power on i assume it gives a message saying system reset bla bla bla...if it does it clears the nvram,if clearing the nvram allows boot up. it kinda seems something keeps messing it up,with memory you just never know memtest may not always be inclined to diagnose instability,i'm not saying it is,but having one stick makes it hard to diagnose since it seems to be one of the few things that make this machine go nuts.maybe someone else with more experience with those machine may offer better perspective but you can check out the 870dm thread.Maybe the bran of memory and speed,it should be written on the module...Have you emailed your support team yet?incase the hardware really is faulty.

When you reset cmos power on without ram,power off then re insert module

No,intel GPU is physically not connected.

Well you can reseat everything to be certain,have you used xtu by any chance?

 

Hello, guys.
I just got p750dm-g today.
Without @Prema mod bios which I believe would come out soon , is there any way to increase the max current?
With xtu, "number" looks as if it goes up, but when I OC 6700k to 4.6 or higher, it keep saying "current throttle".

Any one succeeded OCing 6700k 4.6 or higher without any kind of throttle?

BTW, [email protected] works perfect without any throttle even on Linx 0.64AVX.

 

XTU gives me different results with the same settings. I can clock it stable to 4.4, maybe even higher with nice temps during benchmarks etc.
But those exactly same settings, without changing anything can give me much higher temps, throttling and instability also. Maybe sometimes some voltage settings change which XTu does not show

 

That's because, different tasks require different power/current/voltage etc..
That's why to be sure everything works perfect after OC, runnig Linx or Prime is required.

 

That is probably not what I mean. If i do a benchmark and stress test in XTU @ 4.4 and 1.21v it goes perfectly well. Reaching 75 degrees. the next day I do the exact same thing, exact same settings and it hits plus 90degrees. Some how I guess Bios overrides the voltage settings to automatic while XTU states static.