*** Official Clevo P75xDM and P77xDM/Sager NP9758-G and NP9778-G "Batman 2.0" Owner's Lounge ***

And I bought the laptop from him and now I have an P751DM-G with P775 bios.... but it's working... and looks stable... except it takes 3-5 seconds in bios... doing nothing... on each boot/restart... a lot more then my former P650SE that was lightning fast with the bios faze.
It looks like I am a deep s**t...

 

I am confident @Prema can help us. What is amazing is the fact that the laptop is running and is stable.

Sent from my Nexus 5 using Tapatalk

 

Yes, right, but at the next attempt to update the bios.... failure... brick... probably new moderboard needed.... arrghhh XMG !
@Prema is the ONLY one that can help us.

 

I am having trouble with g sync 75hz.
Can't make the frequency of LCD from 60 to 75hz.
I have FHD with gsync p750dm-g.
Can anyone help me on this matter?
Thanks.

 

Hello All, this is my first post.

I am looking to buy the NP9758-G Special. (6700K,980M,48GB,4K monitor)

I have a question about using RAID 0 on the SAMSUNG 950 PRO M.2 (512GB) for the purpose of having one logical partition for my root OS. I don't believe nor care about a performance increase, but my fear is that I will shorten the life of the M.2 drives by doing this.

If I have to I will keep them split up and dived my space between the drives, but my preference is to have one partition.

Thoughts?

 

Having them in raid 0 should not impact longevity.

 

Why doesn't the wingman P775dm1 have an owners lounge in nbr?

Sent from my Micromax AQ4501 using Tapatalk

 

Most likely you have the LG panel that is locked to 60hz and cannot be over clocked.

Most 750 models, if not all, have the 60hz panel, unlike the 770 model that comes with a factory OC 75hz panel.

Sent from my Nexus 5 using Tapatalk

 

Thanks alot.

 

had the P751DM non G too, maxed out @ 66hz sadly, i tweaked the horizontal and vertical pixels a bit. Especially i lowered the vertical 1 at a time and left the horizontals mostly alone.

not everytime, i have a 771DM-G and my display is 60hz at stock not 75hz. Maybe i got a protoype EDID or something dunno , overclocks tho without any issues to 75hz and 100hz

 

my guess is that there are just not a lot of them on the open market. I've only seen one other person, and not even on this forum, say they actually own the "Wingman"

 

My 771 dm-g also has 60hz as default, but can run 100hz without any issues.
I see my screen gets a bit darker when running 100hz, are there any icc profiles people use or do you just adjust it as best as you can?

Also wondering if it is posible to raid 2.5" ssd`s while using a 950 pro nvme disk as boot drive

 

Maybe stick to 90hz? It's a nicer rounding of 60hz in titles that force it too.

Yes you can do that with the drives so long as the controller is in raid mode.

 

That isn`t something I thougt of, but I guess you are right

With the controller set to raid I cant boot from or install windows to my 950 pro

 

Which version of windows and have you tried adding the intel raid driver?

 

I`ve tried with both 8.1 and 10 no I have not tried to add the intel raid driver. I guess that will be my next step

Edit: do you meen this one?
https://downloadcenter.intel.com/do...Te-AHCI-SCU-Software-RAID-driver-for-Windows-

 

Sorry if this is off topic ... but which, if any, resellers are selling the P775DM1?

 

Wow how did I miss that I wrote panasonic. They're definitely samsung and they're identical to the ones that came with my laptop. Mine work perfectly. Absolutely no issues and yeah, they're really inexpensive which I was suspicious of as well, but after I got and tested them I figured I'd share to help everyone else out.

 

Hello,

i received my P750DM-G from Prostar and over all i am very happy with this laptop.
I do a lot of video editing, 3D modeling, etc..

Here are my specs
P750DM-G
6700K
64 GB RAM
2X Samsung 950 Pro RAID 0
2X Samsung 850 Pro RAID 0
nvidia 980m
330 Watt A/C
Samsung 4K Matt Display

my question is regarding the 4K screen, i am getting a lot of light bleed that shows up when the screen is dark, i am not sure if it this is common in clevo laptops with a 4K screen?
also i have a vertical dark line that only shows up when the screen is dark and if viewed from the side.
does anyone else have any of these issues? do i need to contact Prostar or can i fix these my self?

Thanks

Here is a video and photos to show you what it looks like although it doesn't look as bad on video as it really is


notice when i touch the bezel lightly i am not pushing and the light bleed goes crazy








Notice the vertical line.

 

That is very bad light bleed.. My IPS display doesn't have anywhere near that level..

 

I would return it if I were you. Do they have any kind of quality control before they ship out laptops? this is totally unacceptable.

I have 0 light bleeding on my Eurocom Sky X9 with an FHD/IPS/GSYNC screen. I also have a P870DM-G before this and it didn't have any light bleeding.

 

The only issue with returning it is that I'm halfway across the globe in Jordan and i paid $280 for shipping so I'm not sure if it would be me or them that's responsible for shipping costs?

I paid over $4300 for this laptop not including import tax and customs, so I would definitely like it to work in a perfect condition.

I'll call prostar tomorrow and see what they can do.

 

I live in Dubai so we are close by. That's why I bought my laptop from HIDevolution, they pay for shipping both ways if anything goes wrong with the laptop. Priceless feature really.

PS: One a sidenote, I don't think you should be paying for shipping since this is not a warranty repair, this is a DOA case (dead on arrival) before a company ships out a laptop, they need to do quality checks not just package it and send it blindly.

I've hard that Pro Star warranty is bad so good luck on that bro.

 

Is it normal for a repair/RMA to take over two weeks with these Clevo distributors? I know Eurocom has had my machine in hand for two weeks. I called them last Thursday and they said that they hadn't looked at it yet. One week had passed with my machine in store at that point. They advised me that they would notify me when they had more information. Another week has passed with no new information. I guess I'll call again as soon as I'm not busy with more important things, but in the meantime I've sent an email enquiry.

This all started with the random shutdowns I couldn't diagnose after a few days of troubleshooting. I'm pretty disappointed with Eurocom's support, and I thoroughly hate their purchasing process. I would be livid if I actually needed the machine at this time. Fortunately, I have a perfectly suitable backup for the time being. I was just curious if this was normal a time frame.

 

It really depends on the issue with the machine and how hard the issue to pin down, I would contact them again as 2 weeks without looking at it does seem a bit long yes.

 

I haven't been having the best experience with Eurocom and their warranty at the moment either. It's taken over a week and a few phone calls just to get two emails for troubleshooting with a dead machine. Last phone call at least had them saying it was moving to RMA so hopefully I hear something in the next few days so I can send it off. With any luck it won't be sent to them at least. Canada is not particularly close to me and hearing you've had a machine sitting there for 2 weeks with no news doesn't inspire confidence.

I'm left with a laptop that worked for 3 weeks and now only boot loops (no POST) they've taken another week to suggest they're doing anything other than recommend things I'd stated I already did. (CMOS reset, RAM reseat) and having to pay shipping to get anything done. I would have hope that would be covered for 30 days (or even 21) but ah well.
They do seem to need a bit of prodding or a phone call to get anywhere, between this and the lack of PremaMod by default I'm a little disappointed really.

 

Oddly enough, today I received an email from Eurocom saying that my machine was on its way to me via courier. They never bothered to respond to my email I sent last night, and normally I would be pretty mad if they hadn't explained the diagnosis and what they did to remedy the situation before sending it back. However, on the attached invoice under warranty, it stated they had replaced the mobo and updated the bios. I'm happy with that. I knew it had to either be the gpu, cpu (less likely), or the board itself.

Hopefully all will be well, and the machine will remain happy for years to come. I still think Eurocom could profit from better customer service in every department.

 

Fingers crossed it is sorted for you now Could well have been the motherboard.

 

Explain further, or it never happened!

 

yeah, I would like to know too.
Is it possible/does it work to get a disk image of a fresh osx install for this so I can easily try it on my laptop ?

 

Just saying... most modern laptops are fully hackintosh-able. My W230SS works perfectly with Mavericks (why only Mavericks? I'm not bothering to upgrade to El Cap. Looks terrible.)

You need a Mac and an Apple account. Then you can download the Yosemite/El Capitan installer and prepare a Clover boot drive and install it almost natively onto a separate drive (external ThunderBolt/USB drives are fine, as long as they are formatted as HFS+ Journalled).

Then you can proceed to install the Clover bootloader, and then onto DSDT edits for the necessary miscellaneous features like display and keyboard backlights, Fn shortcuts, audio, any outputs, and power management.

Recommend setting aside a full day (it will take around 6-8 hours, including download and formatting and installation) for this if you're serious about it.

 

Hey all... The past week I have been getting a ton of random crashes in Windows and Linux. I suspected that the memory is to blame so I fired up memtest86 and its still running but so far 14 errors were found. I am using 4x 8GB Kingston HyperX.

I have a Core I7 6700 so no overclocking or anything. I guess I'd like ideas on memory that might be more compatible (it's possible I have some defective DIMMs but I kinda need a lot of RAM for the workload I have).

I appreciate any tips!

Edit:

Just finished and the test found errors ranging from 5GB to 31GB so it looks like at least two DIMMs are affected.

Sent from my A0001 using Tapatalk

 

I have an hacked Mavericks install ROM laying around somewhere from my last attempt at a Hackintosh, the project was a failure. Too many driver issues, dysfunctional hardware, it was a headache. If my P750DM can be fully supported, i'd give it another go. Especially if the thunderbolt port receives some love. I'm fully interested in the OPs install process, as hackintosh builds are fully involved, and require varying levels of wizardry depending on hardware config.

I've actually just went through this with my notebook, same RAM, same CPU. In fact my Windows partition has never recovered from the constant crashing leading up to its death. I'm currently working from my Mint partition, which has not complained once. It may very well be we received a few samples from a faulty batch? I've tested the RAM to kingdom come during my troubleshooting before I counted my loses. I'll return to Windows when I upgrade my RAM, as i'll likely be going to a Samsung RAM in the future.

Edit: Your situation had me second guessing my RAM, booted up to memtest86+, probably with in 3 or 4 seconds, it had 77 memory errors. I don't know your next move, but I will very likely get in contact with my reseller for some answers. If you don't mind, I'm referencing your post. As well as uploading my own. The Kingston RAM is the issue.

 

Yeah I don't use my Windows partition that much, which may be why it's still working (though it sometimes takes several tries to boot). I've had less luck with Linux (when I was using btrfs... when I changed to ext4 it's been able to recover better I think).

I saw that they have a "lifetime warranty", though I don't know if I can wait that long for replacements to arrive. I might just bite the bullet and buy new RAM.

 

If you have the time you could test each stick by itself in the first slot.

 

I've considered doing the hardware troubleshooting, but I will leave it to AVADirect, they have an excellent customer service department, and I do not wish to come into conflict of interest. I do not wish to cause any suspicion of user error, so I'm not even going to open it up. I haven't had to and do not wish to start now.

 

That's fair enough, hopefully they can get it sorted quickly for you.

 

Is there p750dm with prema super bios on it yet?
Stock bios is so locked that oc is really not possible.

 

Thanks but I will pass. No Mac around, too much work, editing and reading to do for something that might even not be worth it at the end. I already thought this would be the case, I tried a hackintosh once, also a lot of work and it was not fully operational. That is why I asked for a disk image. I mean if you have the same hardware I thought this might work. Just plug it in and continue setup. But maybe this is not the case with OSX

 

I have a disk image somewhere, but I am not interested in going through the process again. It was a pain. If the OP had an install running that was painless and fully functional I'd give it a shot. I'm not interested in the techno-wizardry.

As a complete side note, any of the reseller reps (or users) that lurk the thread have any ideas on how I can go about getting my hands on the LTE-1 and LTE-2 antenna cables from a P751DM(-G). I have an P750, and I may attempt modding it if the SIM card slot, and LTE module slot are fully functional, but I'd need the antennas for any real reception.

 

You can grab generic internal antennae or try speaking to your reseller.

 

http://www.3dmark.com/3dm11/10883436

This is the best OC I can make with stock bios on win10. Maybe some more points on physics if I use win7.
6700k wont OC enough with stock bios due to the locked boost power and current limits.
And my memory can't be overclocked as well with stock bios.

 

So, here's a question. I guess when I had the board replaced in my machine, they neglected to take the little mounting bracket for the m.2 card that goes behind the gpu fan off and put it on the new board (or anywhere at all). Anyone know what that little nut looking thing that is male threaded to connect to the board, and female threaded to accept the screw to hold the m.2 card in place is called? Or better, yet, where can I get a replacement. I'm tired of dealing with the distributor. It would be easier for me to just buy a new one.

Edit: Apparently it's called a standoff. I just need to know what size to order I guess.

 

Your reseller should be able to point you in the right direction or send you one.

 

Yes. They should. But I pretty much hate them at this point.

@Cathydoesmith: Thanks for that. I'll see how Eurocom responds to this latest bit of incompetence. In the meantime I'll be looking for someone to sell me that piece.

On a related note... I truly pondered whether or not to leave that standoff attached when I was removing my components from the machine before I sent it back in to be looked at. I guess I made the wrong choice. I figured I'd leave everything they had shipped me inside the machine, and nothing else. It was a mistake.

Edit.... I guess I might have to deal with them again. I'm not having luck finding a standoff with all of those particulars.

 

They are not hugely common no, which is why I suggested asking your reseller to send it to you, they should if they left it out by mistake.

 

If I had to I would use one M2.5 X 10mm screw with some M2.5 washers. I would adjust the number of washers in between the motherboard and the m.2 drive to account for the height of the standoff.

 

Or go a little ghetto in the mean time and use electrical tape (be careful if you intend to move it around a lot however).