*** Official Clevo P75xDM and P77xDM/Sager NP9758-G and NP9778-G "Batman 2.0" Owner's Lounge ***

Investments must produce positive cash flows. In this case investments are days spent on the hard work, assests are intangibles, outcome is the eficacy and additional utility of using purchased product. So until sales go down or new product is out, investments will pay off.
Frankly speaking you should pm @Prema for more information.

 

Oh! So sorry, I had thought you released it to them awhile ago. I will wait patiently good work Prema, and thank you for making our laptops way better!

 

Hi, I'm new to the forums. I decided to buy a P77xDM and I have some doubts so I came here to ask some questions. I hope you can help me.
This is the configuration I'm thinking:
i7 6700/6700k
32 Gb 2133
GTX 980M
M.2 1 500 Gb Crucial mx200/ Samsung SM951
M.2 2 500 Gb Crucial mx200
HDD1 2 Tb Mechanical drive

1) I'm not sure about the processor, I'm not planning to OC, it's worth to get the 6700k or should I go with the 6700?
2) It's possible to install W10 in a M.2 drive? If yes, it's worth to get the samsung SM951 for the 1st M.2 slot to make it the system drive?
3) I'm planning to buy from PCSpecialist, any reference about them?
Thank you very much and sorry about my English .

 

1) get the "K"! It will do you no harm! And it's more futureproof.
2) Yes, but why not get the 950Pro?
3) That I cannot answer. Why don't you get the "Wingman" instead (P775DM)?

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Very happy with my Samsung 950 Pro, yes it runs W10 just fine.

Edit: does anyone know if the issue with having two M2 PCIe HDs still exists? I was considering putting in a second 950 Pro but read that was causing several issues (although adding a SATA drive in the 2nd M2 slot seems to work just fine).

 

I'm running two 512 950 pros in raid0 with no issues

 

Sweet, thanks

 

They don't have the 950Pro as an option, so it's the crucial or the 951.
The 951 it's more expensive so I wanted to know if it's worth to pay 100 euros extra for the difference in performance.
The 775 it's also more expensive for the same configuration, so I don't see any advantages, since probably I'm not going to upgrade to a desktop card in the future.

 

Why do you still want to mess around with HDDs?
The difference between a good SSD and a highend one is barely noticeable. But the difference between SSD and HDD is huge. Additionally SSDs are much more shock resistant and they are quiet.

So i'd recommend to get rid of the 2TB HDD and replace it with bigger SSDs. Bigger SSDs tend to be more power-efficient and faster.
If you want to save more money, order one SSD at the shop (with windows) and the other one(s) elsewhere.

 

The price of the M.2 SSDs are the same at the shop that at other online resellers, so I won't save any money buying it elsewhere. A 2 Tb SSD cost around 500$, a 2 Tb HDD cost less than $100, that's a huge difference. I want the laptop to perform some quatum calculations, the output files of the software I use have a size of 5 Gb for each simulation. I plan to use the SSD for the current running simulations, and keep the old files for data analysis that not need a fast access in the HDD. I don't really care much about shock resistance since I won't be moving the laptop a lot, I need a laptop because due to my job I travel for a couple of week every two/three months and I need it to keep working, but I wont be moving it on a daily basis. I don't care about noise either, my current laptop has 2 HDD and the fans are permanently on and it doesn't bother me.

 

An SSD + HDD combo is a great value combination, I suggest getting a larger SATA based one over a smaller PCI-E based one though.

 

I agree with this for sure. I did 2 256 gig Sata M.2 SSD's, One for Windows and one for Linux, and one 750 gb WD Black. I'll never use that much space but it's there.

 

That's what I was planning to do, 1 M.2 for w10 and windows soft, 1 M.2 for linux and soft, and two HDD for data. What I wanted to know is if it's worth upgrading one of the M.2 from a crucial MX200 to a Samsung SM951.

 

Well Xidax ****ed up and striped my drives when I specifically asked them not to now I'm in a no boot situation trying to reinstall Windows. The recovery media they sent was cracked and I get a PXE error on every USB stick I use Linux tried to boot and then went black.

 

Going from a Sata III ssd to a PCIe ssd is going to be ~3 to 4 times faster roughly (depending on which drives you are comparing). Since you use the computer for something where you have to read and write a lot of information to the drive, then it very well could be worth it. If you are using the computer for daily uses (web, video, email, etc) or gaming, I don't know if it would be worth the upgrade as you might not see a big difference in real world scenarios.

 

Well I can't boot from USB atm to Install an OS and no Support at Xidax on Sat so I'm sending it back Monday and rebuilding my desktop.

 

It sounds like you might have made up mind up but all the same. What kind of USB are you trying to boot from?
The uefi bios only allows for bootig from uefi tables with gpt partitioned drives. Anything legacy you need to change the uefi boot option to off in bios and save and reboot. You'll see a splash screen with hot keys for boot selection. You can't boot from gpt partitioned drives but mbr will work just fine.

 

I got it to boot. It's still seeing one of my SSD's as the entire raid volume.

 

Intel rapid storage may have let you migrate the array back or taking an image and then restoring it to the split drive is also another fairly easy way of doing it.

 

Still waiting on that 17.3 inch 4K display...

 

On the topic of M2 drives, just wanted to clarify if the limitation still exists for NVMe drives; that you can only use a single M2 slot if you use an NVMe drive (as opposed to being able to use both slots if you go with non NVMe M2's)?

I have the P750DM with the M2 Samsung 951 NVMe version - just wondering if I have to downgrade/sell my NVMe stick and get 2x non NVMe's in order to utilize both slots.

 

Nope, both slots are PCIE x4 compatible. That being said, keep in mind you are still somewhat limited by the DMI connection back from the PCH -> CPU since it's only 4 lanes wide.

RAID0 won't see a complete doubling in performance for that reason. But if they'll just be used separately then you're good to go.

 

Okay great, thanks for clarifying. Yeah they'll be used separately, my intention is to use one for Linux the other for Windows. For the two large bays I have 2x 2TB mirror in a software RAID via ZFS.

Edit: though interestingly, in a possibly related matter, my P750DM-G died today.

The original review from HTWingnut indicated some concerns regarding heat and the M2 drives. Is it possible the M2 NVMe drive I have in this system has contributed to 'cooking it' ? I wasn't aware of the cooling issues until today and otherwise would have been keeping a closer eye on temps.

 

Unlikely, the thermal energy it puts out is comparatively small, the heat concerns are for the controller chip on the SSD (which thermal throttles itself).

 

Guys is there a way for me to oc the screen to lets say 80hz and use gsync at the same time? I tried running games w gsync but it locks itself to 60hz

 

Gsync will lock to the refresh rate of the panel. So OCing the panel to 80hz or whatever you desire will make gsync lock to that rate.

 

I got it fixed now I'm just waiting for them to send the Intel card I ordered to replace the Killer 1535 they put it by mistake so I can have wireless in Linux.

 

I am seriously thinking of getting a new P775 with the 980 and I am a bit concerned about the fan noise for the CPU. I know I can undervolt the CPU to keep it a bit quieter but out of the box how noisy is it?

 

85-87ºC is a safe temperature for i7 6770k without OC? The graphic (970M) only goes to 65ºC.
BTW, playing The Division with 1080p in Ultra.

 

Yeah, mid 80s are okay. Not ideal, but not horrible.

 

guys any idea how i can do a clean install? i mean will it boot up properly bec i did it before with my alienware 15 and it was easy. but i dont know how to go about the clean install since this does not come with optimus. also this is the drivers right? http://www.malibal.com/drivers/770dm/

 

Firstly you're better off getting initial drivers from here if you want the stock experience. Though for the best part the versions on your link seem the latest seem the same this is the Official Repository.

You'll be able to do a clean install without Nvidia drivers so the procedure is the same as usual, you'll just lack any kind of 3d acceleration.

You might want to take a look at this thread here. Though the drivers are for the P870DM most of the hardware is identical.
Install in the order listed.
The only change from their list is that I'd recommend installing the newer Control Center v5.0001.0.39.
This is technically the P775DM-G version and according to the P870DM Drivers thread some users reported issues with their trackpad. I've been using this 2 weeks and had no such issues. Plus if you feel link tinkering with the *.ini files prior to installation you can enable a GPU overclocking tool (no voltage control) and make a few other alterations.

Edit:
IGNORE ALL VBIOS/BIOS for the P870DM at best they won't install, at worst they will brick. For VBIOS look to premamod.com

 

What changes with the newer version of Control Center? And why there is only that version for Clevo P6xxRx?

 

I haven't seen any dramatic changes and unfortunately there's no changelog. There's limited GPU overclocking support (edit the oem.ini file in the directory before installing) but I presume it's mostly bug fixes and the like.
That version is actually for the P775DM-G. In my experience it's been fully compatible with the P770DM-G.

 

So i am half way through the clean install and i didnt have to input the product key. Apparently what i got was an oem product key that is stuck with the motherboard. I found a copy around online for around 30usd or less but i paid 80usd for it when i ordered it to lpcdigital. Anyhoot i was wondering if this is standard and if not could i ask for a standard copy?

 

That's pretty standard practice.
Those cheap OEM keys are grey market, sure they work but they aren't usually authorized to be resold.
Someone correct me if I'm wrong but typically they're effectively spare volume license keys, or OEM keys that people had included with their machine that they no longer wish to use.
You won't find any authorized re seller with those kind of prices for a reason.

 

please delete this sorry for duplicate

Who's got some Best Practices to share?

.I'm trying to avoid avoid natural oil stains from hands etc..on the rubber coating on the laptop and the keyboard I've used some 70% Isopropyl Alcohol it works but the the rubber coating starts to flake off. I've used some MGM Glass Cleaner as recommended by EuroComm but same thing.

The worry is that Alcohol may dry out the rubber over time.. and cause it flake, and then peal..
Any ideas?

Wish there was some rubber conditioner that would take away oil but not cause the rubber to flake.., and not make the rubber oily

 

Who's got some Best Practices to share?

.I'm trying to avoid avoid natural oil stains from hands etc..on the rubber coating on the laptop and the keyboard I've used some 70% Isopropyl Alcohol it works but the the rubber coating starts to flake off. I've used some MG Chemical Glass Cleaner as recommended by EuroComm but same thing.

The worry is that Alcohol may dry out the rubber over time.. and cause it flake, and then peal..
Any ideas?

Wish there was some rubber conditioner that would take away oil but not cause the rubber to flake.., and not make the rubber oily


Maybe Clevo should get rid of the rubber?
I may try this not but sure...

Auto-Chem Professional (830-032) - HD CLEAN ALL - Heavy Duty Universal Cleaner & Degreaser-Concentrated for Engines, Tires and Rims 33.8 ounces
by Auto-Chem Direct
Link: http://amzn.com/B00JBNYYJ0

And then there are these...
http://www.mcmelectronics.com/browse/Rubber-Cleaners/0000000456

 

What do you need Optimus to do a clean Install for? It should be the same. Windows will install a driver and you'll install an updated one from Nvidia.

 

If i knew that i would have gotten the windows myself instead of spending 80usd lol. Anyways thanks for the info!

 

Better to have a proper real key than microsoft yank yours at some point

 

Please let me know your findings, I've been using 70% iso wipes and hadn't considered it could damage the rubber. I'll revert back to microfiber and serious elbow grease but if there's something better I get that in a second.


On an unrelated note

Received the final copy of PremaMods Bios Of P770DM-G from Eurocom yesterday.
First Firestrike Run (Needs some fine tuning still) http://www.3dmark.com/3dm/11360065
VCore is running too high but CPU didn't exceed 83c and 67c on the GPU.
Amazed at the cooling on this machine.

 

I read somewhere that Prema just released the mod for our P7xxDM to prema partners. So I guess it will take a long time to see the bios in the wild... We have no prema partners in Sweden. O well...

 

Well I did state it in the post above yours.
I did see someone state that they purchased it from Eurocom without having one of their machines but I may have got mixed wires, could be worth an email if you're in desperate need of it?

 

Prema himself wrote somewhere that the mod was finally released, but only to partners. I was just hoping it was out for non partners.

 

Do you know what different to stock?



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I don't have mine yet, but I plan on taking the exact opposite approach. Instead of trying to get rid of the oil stains, I plan on applying a thin, uniform coat of specialized oil to all of the rubberized surfaces. The "rubberized" surface is not natural rubber, but is a man-made synthetic. All synthetic rubbers are primarily made of crude oil, which is why applying alcohol will gradually strip away the oils in the original material and lead to flaking.

In manufacturing, oils are often applied to both natural and man-made rubber materials to maximize longevity and prevent breakdown...it's called conditioning. I figure it will help prevent wear and tear on the rubberized surface AND give it a uniform look rather than splotchy oil stains. Plus, if you routinely clean the dust out of the fans, why not spend all of 5 minutes conditioning the rubberized surface?

I've done the same thing to other electronics with a "rubberized" surface for years (e.g., even way back when for walk-mans, PDA's, etc.), and it's worked great. Be interested to hear if others also do this.

 

A small micro fiber towel came along my ZM, Ive been using that to wipe the keys and the whole laptop in general clean.

 

Exactly. But i could have saved around 50usd if i bought it myself over at kingwin instead of getting it from my reseller. Could have gotten myself another 8gb of ram.

 

Sorry for my ignorance but since we still don't have a prema bios, is there's any benefit to sager bios over clevo bios, or vice versa? Does sager ever update their bios?