*** Official Clevo P775DM2/3(-G)/P75xDM2(-G) (Sager NP9152/NP9172) WINGMAN 2.0/BATMAN 3.0 Lounge ***

Hi there . This will be noob question but can i upgrade screen in my clevo from FHD 75 mhz to 120 hz 1440p? If so where i can order it in Europe as Dream Machines in poland only offer 1080p :/
I have played games on AW 17 R4 120 mhz 1440p and i reallly like it so would like to have same/similiar screen in my Clevo P775DM3.
Thanks

 

Hi.
What model specifically? Try xmg they offer 1440 120hz 5ms screen on the 870 model perhaps on others too

edit: I am an idiot. Never looked at your sig haha. Guess replying on forums after a bottle of wine is not the best idea

 

No it doesn't. the manual says so, yes, but you only have to angle the screwdriver about 5 degrees. It's nothing. Leave the heatsink.

Don't doubt. I play Battlefield 1, Star Wars Battlefront, World of Warships and Just Cause 3 on 3840x2160, everything at Ultra settings. No problems here at all. Very very playable.

Yes, you need a B173QTN01.0 panel from eBay. Costs around 90 euro's. The cable for the WQHD is the same as for the UHD. Just unscrew the two screws under the square black stickers on the hinges and pry the bezel loose carefully.
It IS that simple. http://www.ebay.nl/itm/132115179721?_trksid=p2055119.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT

And for a question of my very own:
I'm having a **** time trying to install Windows 8.1. BSOD galore every time.
I try to install it on my M.2 drive with all other bays filled as well.
Does W8.1 like M.2 out of the box or do I need tricks to make it work?

 

What M.2 drive. Is it SATA or NVMe? There is a big difference. Windows 8.1 would support either out of the box in any case. What is the STOP code?

 

I would not recommend ebay for a product quality. Rather pay a bit more and have assurance of reputable source such as reseller.

Been buying of ebay for years. It's always been hit or miss at best.

Try sending it back to China if something goes wrong

 

Thanks for reply but I have fhd screen not uhd so do I need order cable aswell?

 

If you bought yours from them I would get in touch.

 

It's a 960Pro NVME. I recently had my Prema bios installed so I need to re-check if that did anything. Trying it again later today.

Edit: tried it, seems to work now. Dunno what fixed it. Now to collect 8.1 drivers...

Your own reseller will ask much more for it as he needs to eat too. I think it's worth the 'gamble' as far as there is any. eBay still works with reputation so if it were crap people would say so.

Unfortunately I do not know this for certain, but there is reason to believe the FHD uses a different cable as my reseller was surprised the WQHD and UHD shared the same cable.

 

Yeah definitely worth the gamble if you can be bothered in case something goes wrong.

With regards to reseller yeah definitely agree about the prices being higher. For this tho you get same level of support as the unit you purchased. In the end it is an official upgrade trough them. The resellers also work on reputation so it should be in their interest to keep the client happy. I do not see why they could not take the old screen and upgrade it for a fee? Of course this is dependent on circumstances (condition of such panel, company policy for upgrades like this)

Personally I upgraded my old units screen from HD to FHD and had gone trough 3 panels before I found one with no dead pixels. Right pain in the ass

 

Thanks. Already spoke to my reseller. They can replace for extra cost. Even if this going to be double price I'll go with them. I have no time to order 1 from China and risk doing it by myself.

 

I think that is smart. You probably need a new cable so it is not just a simple swap for you.

Small note: the WQHD 120Hz screen does have some issues with banding/stripes. Some don't mind and some hate it. Please read up on it before you pull the trigger. Also, check what the cost would be to keep the old set, in case you hate it and want to swap back.
On the plus side, if you ever wanted to: going to UHD is real easy when you have WQHD, because you already have the cable installed.

 

I will share that here once i get email from them . I've seen WQHD 120Mhz with banding/stripes. I use most my laptop for gaming so don't bother about banding or stripes . Thanks for help i will definitely ask them about keeping my old screen (if i decide to upgrade) . Atm my lappy is second time in service in last 30 days lol . First GPU Failed to work, now motherboard.

 

I know it shows the heat sink removed, but there really is no need. As long as you remove both of the keyboard screws then the hole they show in the diagram is actually one of those holes and none of the screws used for the heat sink screw into the keyboard. I've removed keyboards of multiple P775DM3's and never removed the heat sink once to do it. Not sure what tijgert is referring to about 'angling the screwdriver' as you don't need to angle one to remove the keyboard, just make sure both keyboard screws are removed from the underside then carefully push something through the hole as indicated in the diagram until the keyboard pops out

 

Hi guys,

I hope this is the right spot to ask for help. I bought a barebones P751-DM2, and got the following components for it:
i7 7700K
Samsung 960 Pro 512GB M.2 NVMe
2x Kingston 8GB DDR4-2400 SODIMM (KCP424SS8/8)

Everything seemed to go together fine, followed the installation manual for everything. RAM is in the two ports on the bottom, not under the keyboard.

However, when I boot it up nothing much seems to happen. The fan spins up for a sec, the power light turns green, keyboard lights up, but the screen stays blank.

Any ideas on what could be wrong? I tried reseating the RAM, but that didn't change anything.
I also tried following the troubleshooting steps in the manual related to the display being turned off etc, but nothing seems to help.

 

Where is the Graphic Card??

 

That was part of the barebones deal:
NVIDIA GeForce GTX 1060 - 6.0GB GDDR5 Video RAM - DirectX 12.1, G-Sync

 

Perhaps the P751DM2-G was 'old' stock and it does not have the Kaby Lake BIOS and EC. If this is the case then you will need a Skylake processor to flash the BIOS and EC.

 

Is there any way to tell? Would certainly suck, but worst case I can grab my i5-6600K out of my desktop PC...

Strangely enough, it also seems to be reacting differently depending on if it's plugged in or not. Plugged in it'll turn off and on again by itself, unplugged it'll turn on for a few seconds then turn off again. Could the problem be with the battery? I let it charge for a few hours now, and it is indicating that the battery is fully charged.

 

I am pretty sure your P751DM2-G has a Sky Lake BIOS and EC and that is the reason the laptop will not POST.

If you have a '6' in your serial number, for instance '6J'/'6K'/ '6L' and your reseller did not flash the Kaby Lake BIOS and EC then you will need your i5-6600K to flash the Kaby Lake BIOS and EC.

A reseller should always deliver a laptop/barebone laptop with the latest available BIOS and EC.

 

Yeah, it's a 6K... argh. Welp, thanks for the help, I'll try with my i5 and report back.

 

Great success! Big thanks to Frits for the advice. Luckily I had an i5 to drop in temporarily to do the update, I was indeed on BIOS 1.5, not 1.6. Found a thread on this forum with a download link for the BIOS update, updated it, and the i7 works now

I'll have to send a mildly miffed email to my supplier though. For people reading this, if you're planning on buying a barebones from laptopplus.nl and want a Kaby Lake CPU, tell them to upgrade the BIOS!

Now to install all the drivers. Very nice that it comes with a driver CD but no CD drive But that's no biggie.

 

3M DI-NOC CA-421 carbon fiber vinyl skinned EVOC P750DM2-G anyone? I cut these pieces by hand. I know I am missing a section of the lid, I was having issues cutting that section but will do it soon.




@Donald@HIDevolution @steberg

 

Wouldn't the glue and the papers themselves act as a heat insulation?

Wouldn't this mean that it runs hotter than it did before because the heat doesn't transfer as well to the case so it escapes the case even less?

 

@Georgel nothing is heatsinked to the plastic case. Plastic is a bad conductor of heat. That's why these systems have huge copper heat sinks with fans.

 

Nah, it's fine because they use high W/mK adhesive and carbon fiber acts like heat fins. If you're worried about it you can CLU on some copper shims onto your palm rest.

also that laptop looks boss

 

@Q937 the carbon fiber also reduces the weight of the system so it's easier to carry.

 

Has anyone seen higher temps in newer BIOS on the p750dm2-g?

I switched to the new BIOS Eurocom provided (they were legit so apologies to them- although they should have preempted any concerns on my end), swapped a 6700 for a 7700, and in the process mildly bent the heatsink. Mind you, the thing is surprisingly flexible. It bent right back into place when I reinstalled it and made sure I screwed the heatsink back snugly.

Now, the standard +200MHz core OC on the 1070 isn't stable and the core doesn't boost as high by default. With a 60 fps framerate lock, my GPU would always max out at ~84-85C and it now hits 90C within minutes of playing BF4.

Any thoughts? Should I reapply TIM to the GPU? I just took the heatsink off then put it back on without reapplying anything to the GPU- just the CPU.

 

a little bit of cheating, haha. i7 6700k, P775dm3

well, not really cheating, just a few trick and tweaks. no extra cooling or anything.

 

@ahmedmo1 delid the 7700k, apply CLU to the die and on bottom of IHS around where the die is, reapply IHS, then repaste CPU and GPU with IC Diamond.

Apply a -100mV undervolt to the CPU.

You cannot expect to use Kaby Lake on these machines and treat them the same as Skylake, Kaby Lake run too hot.

 

Nvm- was late and I wasn't thinking clearly. I meant GPU- it was maxing out at 90C and throttling. I was lazy in not reapplying TIM- found some and after a reapply, max temps are back to 84C and OC is stable.

I have a non-K 7700 - got it to save ~$75 and for the lower TDP. CPU rarely goes beyond 70C in-game.

 

I finally had the prema bios flashed on my system and I'm currently in the process of overclocking. I have a 4.8ghz 6700k from Silicon Lottery and I've reached 4.5ghz with a -40mv underclock, but am having trouble going further. When I stress test, my processor is being throttled and throttlestop says that the reason is "EDP OTHER". I tried to find out what this means but I couldn't find much information about it. I found out that I am not throttled when I lower the voltage, but this causes my overclock to not be stable anymore. I'm using p95 for testing because I occasionally use programs that tend to make use of AVX instructions. Under max fans, peak temp and voltage are approximately 90C and 1.3V, though temps usually hover around 86C-87C and voltage sits between 1.24V-1.28V.

I'm wondering if there is anything I can do to fix this or if I am stuck at my current overclock.

 

Please put your laptop model / specs in your sig so we can help you better.

Where did you buy it from?

 

hey guys.
anybody knows how to turn off permanently the clevo flexi access? i keep deactivating it and after a while i find it On again without me enabling it?
also what's the best profile to set in the CCC for best perfomance in gaming? entertainment or perfomance? ( the first one on the right or the second profile going from right to left)
ty!

 

Performance is the highest performance profile which stops any part from idling at all.

 

Updated sig, purchased from HIDEvolution

 

so should i select perfomance when i game?

do you know how to permanently turn off the flexy access?
ty!

 

so today made some final tests:

p775dm3-g(kb). 6700k + gtx 1080

6700k undervolted -120mv running 4.0ghz all cores

gtx 1080 running 1850mhz(locked) at 0.9mv

tested with:

Valley benchmark UHD + 2x AA High settings
+
XTU stress test running in the background.

average 99% CPU and 98-99% GPU usage.

Automatic CC fan profile

1 hour duration of testing

results:

average 79C on the CPU, peak 82C

average 74C on the GPU, peak 75C

soon will make a thread about cooling customization made.

 

If you mean how to turn off the lights....... just set the color to black in Flexi Access and magic!! no more keyboard lights

 

HIDevolution.com has great technical support. If you should ever need tech support or warranty service, it would be better to contact our Tech Support Team by phone at 562-485-6541 or 888-666-3418 Extension 200, between 9:00 AM and 5:00 PM Pacific Time, Monday through Friday, by email at [email protected], or by Online Support Ticket at http://www.hidevolution.com/contacts/ (in the department dropdown menu select Zoltan S - Tech Support).

Please let me know if they don’t resolve your issue.
.

 

no i mean this

https://gyazo.com/15ae0f33d317433655802e0beaaca6e0

it keeps turning itself on..

 

Oh I've never touched that. By default it's always off.

I suggest uninstalling CCC using Revo Uninstaller, when the uninstaller prompts you to reboot, select no, let Revo clean up the registry and file remnants then reboot manually

then reinstall CCC and don't touch that Flexi Access. It shouldn't ever come on automatically then.

 

i updated my CCC using obisdian's app.. yeah i think i touched something but nothing major.. what version of CCC do you have?

 

I don't have a Clevo Laptop

Can you not read my sig?

 

I didn't consider this a problem of that magnitude, but it's great to know that you guys help out with overclocking too. I asked here to see if any of my fellow overclockers have experienced anything similar to my current situation, but I will definitely contact Zoltan if I don't receive an answer.

 

Some people on here have multiple systems, but yeah Pheonix went a little more mainstream with his system

 

Hello everyone . I have to share some NOOB work with i have done on my Clevo P775DM3

After when i recieved laptop from RMA (motherboard faulty) i decide to use Grizzly Conductonaut third time but this time i only applied LM on CPU Die . After fitting cpu on socket i have applied IC 7 on CPU and GPU(with X combination) . I add some pictures with results here. All test are done in Full Fan Speed + U3 CoolerMaster no mods with fan just standard .

CPU all cores 4.5 Ghz
GPU Core +175 Mhz
GPU Memory +450 Mhz

3DMark 11 Result and temps.
Score P22168
Graphic Score 32182
Physics Score 11704
Combined Score 11126

And here are Temps:
Core 1 68c
Core 2 68c
Core 3 65c
Core 4 67c
GPU 75c

Firestrike Result and temps.
Score 18443
Graphic Score 23875
Physic Score 14056
Combined Score 8242


Temps :
Core 1 65c
Core 2 67c
Core 3 64c
Core 4 65c
GPU 78c


And Stock Results without any OC

3DMark 11

P20898
Core 1 58c
Core 2 60c
Core 3 56c
Core 4 58c
GPU 73c


I'm happy with almost everything but GPU still to high...Why??? while gaming when i use AutoFan in game like Battlefield 1 GPU Reach 91C after 30 min of gaming when CPU is about 77-80. When i use MaxFan (FN+1) . My GPU will be arround 80C and CPU 75C with is still to high? . Not sure if i can get lower temps on my GPU . I know 1080 will run hotter then 1070.
BTW even NooB like me can work out with temps and OC a bit

 

~

Those temps are worthless, any game will make more heat then those benchmarks since those are short benchs.
Please give us AIDA Extreme Stability test with FPU + GPU, run it for 15m.
With that information i will be able to tell you if the temps are good or not. A 6700K is very easy to keep in good temperatures.

EDIT: By "Wortheless" i mean, we can´t judge a system temps by them... not sure if i used the best adjective.

 

Here are results

First Test
CPU OC all cores 4.5 Ghz - 50mv
GPU OC +175 Core and +450 Memory
Temps are very high!

Second Test
CPU OC all cores 4.2 Ghz - 150mv
GPU Stock
Temps are cool

 

Yeah with OC the temperatures a bit high, can´t you undervolt it a bit more?
Are you doing your testing with the latest BIOS/EC and with OC Fan profile?

 

thanks for quick reply. I use max fan profile fn+1. Should I change it to oc profile?