*** Official Clevo P775DM2/3(-G)/P75xDM2(-G) (Sager NP9152/NP9172) WINGMAN 2.0/BATMAN 3.0 Lounge ***

Yeah I don't even make it into windows if I set the max multi in the bios to 50. I don't know how I could make it to 5GHz otherwise. The chip is good for it. Previous owner did 5GHz @1.3V so I should be able to as well.

 

@tijgert voltage offsets are working in v2 in both negative and positive values.

 

Throttlestop? I did say my bios is set to 4.4GHz

Also is 1.3v so impressive for 5? Or do we mean effective

Sent from my OnePlus 1 using a coconut

 

I found it. Had to up the multi in Fivr before TS main window would allow me to up it. Guess bios is not that much of a limitation.

I'm not sure 1.3V is that great, seemed at first, but I really don't know for sure. But I saw on CaseKings.de that they sell 5GHz guaranteed CPU's for more and 5.1GHz guaranteed for far more (crazy 600€ and up) and they all ran >1.3V. Doesn't matter really.

On another note; since we don't use the IGP, is there any thermal gains to be eh.. gained by underclocking/volting that thing? Or is it technically switched off when not in use?

 

Should be switched off

Sent from my OnePlus 1 using a coconut

 

Usually for the high end like that you can't quite hit the same numbers as you don't have 12 phases to play with along with large electrolytic capacitor banks.

 

Oh I wasn't trying to. I just figured a good chip like that should be able to hit lower speeds at even lower voltages.

Like my 'old' 7700K that came with the machine couldn't do 4.7GHz at -100mV. It could do 4.6GHz all night long, but not 4.7GHz.
The 5GHz one seems to be able to do that and might even go lower than -100mV given enough testing, or 4.8GHz at that same -100mV.

I'm stressing it now to see if it'll hold. If it does it's already a little better chip than what I had and I'll try for 4.8GHz first for a night.
(Though I'll have to repaste it again first, I botched that earlier tonight I guess and it's hitting TDP a lot. Let's see if maybe the Kryonaut settles over night and has lower temps in the morrow).

Can't wait to decapitate it if it stays sweet like this.

 

anybody knows what this thing in CCC does? i click it to disable or move the bar but nothing happens.. idk what is that..

https://gyazo.com/f18fa0cda0d90481a8bca5db7a69a88e

ty!

 

I think it's the minimum fan speed maybe, most def fan speed related.

On my previous post; the chip holds 4.7GHz at -100mV but now I run into the power limit. Had to up that to 98W as it occasionally bumps against 97W.
Thermal throttling went away as the Kryonaut settled as hoped and temps lowered by 10c or more.

Guess this chip is here to stay.

Edit: 4.7GHz @-149mV runnend smooth at 80c. Almost doubting the need for a delid. (Almost, when the GPU gets taxed too temps will rise again).

 

If you are happy with the temps/performance then no one is going to force you to crack it open

 

Volume level

 

ahah ty ! i could not figure out!|

 

Hahah i just noticed this one
You would not believe the amount of times that our clients asked the same question.

 

Well, 'happy'. Seems I did it too well on the repaste/mod for the GPU.
Now the GPU won't go above 74c as it's quite effectively dumping all its heat into the heatpipe system, taking away cooling capacity for the CPU...

At only CPU load it looks peachy, but at 4.4GHz and the GPU in full stress the CPU bumps its head at an even 100c. Seems a delid is a must (though I don't know where the excess heat can go...). If I add LM to the mix as well, oh boy.

 

anybody knows if it's normal that i get these windows notices in my events log?

the speed of processor 3 in group 0 is being limited by system firmware by " Microsoft-Windows-Kernel-Processor-Power" .. and the same kind of notice with different number of processor..
I'm plugged.. windows is on high perfomance.. i cannot figure out why they show up.. i thought they would just show up when on battery but now they show up plugged as well
anybody got the same behavior?
tyvm

 

Guys, a question. On Repasting. What happens to the memory chips of the MXM card. Are they connected to the heatpipe system as well and need to be pasted?

 

I bought 3 pieces with a delid tool.
I will put them on ebay in Germany in a week or so. The lid with the delid-tool for 20 bucks or something

 

What repaste/mod have you done? would you share it ?

 

They contact the heatsink plate with thermal pads.

 

Do I need new heatpads for repasting?

 

You should be OK re-using the existing pads if you are careful, I use plastic tweezers to avoid getting finger grease on them. You will probably find some will be stuck to the GPU parts and some will be stuck to the heatsink. When I do mine I carefully remove any that are stuck to the heatsink and place them on the correct parts of the GPU and reposition any on the GPU which look a bit wonky.

 

I would only touch any that look like they have moved on removal, they can sit on either side of the heatsink/GPU when the heatsink is put back on.

They only need replacing when they appear damaged to the eye.

 

Did they say how it dries out?
This heat spreader has been sitting like this for about a week now and it's still completely liquid. This would be conductonaut

 

I haven't pushed for more info. As I said, I haven't experienced this by myself. But I mean @bloodhawk and @iunlock have seen it by themselves. They could probably chime in. This is all about CLLU, not Phobya or Conductonaut Liquid metal.

 

Yeah same thing with Conductonaut, no drying out at all.
However last 2 tubes of CLU , before i switched to Conductonaut, dried out for me on the heat sink. Even the heat sink that i left out side with CLU on it caked up after a day or so. Had to sand it off.

 

Hmmm, let me check...I may still have a tube of ultra sitting around. If yours is done, then so is mine.

Edit: Scratch that. It's gone.

 

Oh'well, I painted old CLLU as a test on some metal. The syringe is opened first time over 3 years ago(sent to me 04/22/2014). I didn't put the syringe in special good storage all this years. In my living room with sometimes very hot temp due the fireplace. Also the cap on syringes isn't put on very well. But was easy to spread. Fully useable.

 

I say leave it like that for the next few days to a week and let people know if things are better or worse. I will hit mine with a heat gun for like 10 minutes to see if that makes things worse for mine. And the reason why it's even like that is because I was testing the new heatspreader and did not want to wipe it off. Will need to in the future now that it's been sitting there collecting lint and dust and all....

 

I was trying to pull up the short blurp that I've written on this subject a while back, but yes it is true that CLU can "dry out," or "clump up to a cloudy grey goop," in cases where there is uneven contact.

I've called this, " liquidoxidation," (made up word of course) where with there being any form of containment (surfaces not thoroughly cleaned before application) and/or just due to the fact that there is a gap with oxygen present, with extreme temp changes within seconds, I really do believe that this is what causes the LM to, "burn out," / "liquidoxidation."

I have a feeling that it also has something to do with dust (dusty environments) and possibly a reaction between the elements of what LM is made of and the copper.

What we do know is that LM binds to the copper filling the micro pores and once heated & cooled drastically like it normally does on the die(s), the LM to binds / bakes into the cooper surface.

That's why when cleaning LM off the cooper heat plate, it has that nice smooth shine to it that is much smoother than before.

This brings me to another interesting fact of when I had tested temps after using pre-LM'ed HS's (with the stain / smooth silvery surface).

Whether it is a coincidence or not, I did get slightly better temps on average and this is just of those things that I've noticed after the many systems that has come across my work station. (Many clients have sent me their, "attempted LM," systems for me to fix...I've seen some very interesting things...but on a productive front, this has allowed me to use those pre-LM'ed heat sinks to have gathered this data over time...)

I have yet to experience any 'dry outs / or effects,' with Grizzly Conductonaut, which is the reason why it is my go to paste for LM.

Indeed.

How ironic. That's very interesting that you've mentioned the heat gun test as it is similar to what I've done, but to see if the LM'ed burned faster on aluminium. (controlled test)

The element that is missing is the drastic temp change that we're not able to replicate, when it comes to the die(s) + CLU + copper heat plate.

However, I did find that applying high heat (while using an IR temp gun to control the temps around ~90C's to mimick the cpu die(s) temps) to this aluminium cube (yes, aluminium and LM as I wanted to test the behavior of not only how it eats it for lunch, but to see if high heat would accelerate this process) and applying the heat did 'burn' the CLU...

 

I have a phase change unit?

 

papusan live in phase changed climate

 

Temperature will increase oxidation rates and chemical reaction rates (like on the aluminium which is changing the chemical composition).

 

Sorry about the delay. My mods are very rudimentary. The cooling pads were too thick and were pushing back against the cooler too much... so I squished them till they were quite flat. They'll bounce back enough later but I needed to overcome the backpressure to mount the heatsink properly.

Also the little arms on the GPU heatsink are way too weak, so I propped up the GPU with a piece of hard foam underneath the daughter board. It's ever so slightly bending upward now and makes *perfect* contact now.

Result is that my 1080 stays a nice 77/80c when overclocked 120/120 but the GPU dumps so much heat into the heatsink setup that I can't doublestress it over 4.2GHz or it'll start to throttle at 100c. Needs a delid.

Edit:

Question: Does anyone know what "HDC Control" means in the Prema bios?
It supposedly enables the HDC configuration option which can also be set to Turbo.

 

hey guys , with warmer temps coming in, i noticed that as my room temperature went up of 6 degrees.. cpu temp went up of 10 degrees -_- so during game sessions i peak up to 90 degrees with my cpu -_-.. it's all undervolted and such.. it's just my room temperature that has changed ( right now it's about 26 celsius but can go up to 30..31.. in summer)... so i wanted to know what's the best cooling pad that you might have been trying for our model.. i mean considering the ventilation of this clevo.. which could be the best one? any reccomendatios?
i already have this " Cooler-Master-NotePal-LapAir" .. but honestly between plugging it and unplugging.. i have not noticed much of a difference..
ty!

 

Coolermaster U3 is the best option for extra cooling but not with standard fans . I have made my own (i learn from guys here in this forum) i use 3x fans 120mm cheap Arctic 12 and i have connected them to the old charger 15V from my old router. It will give me drop around 7-10C

Here is the picture of original one and one where i cut space for the fans for better air flow .
First time i use 3 fans in same position like those left and right but my keyboard get hot so i turn middle fan (take hot air out) and now keyboard doesn't get hot at all.
Btw your setup isn't K model and 1070 (runs cooler then 1080) so you should have lower temps.
Delid CPU is something with should be done in first step . This isn't hard trust me . Mine run 90C+ when was new out from the box . Now ? benchmarks CPU 60C GPU 66C (FN+1) or CPU 67C and GPU 70C when fans are on Auto Profile. While gaming Battlefield 1 for example long session(at least 3-4h) and Auto Profile Fan CPU max 65-67C and GPU 70-72C .

 

thank you but i don't have the skill to make one by myself, what is a good one i could buy and use it the way it is? :/

 

you always can buy U3 and just replace the fans using 120mm without cutting like i done .

 

There is not one out with a stock fan worth running really.

 

yeah well i have not done a delid nor requested it because i just don't need it. it's a kabylake and non k version... it's well balanced the system to not produce too much heat and on the long run i hope it's gonna pay me back for this.. my cpu usually stay around 80 on full load and gpu stay on 69-70 and i have no issues at all but still when the room temperature goes up, it's just mathematically that the cpu's temp goes up as well.. it would happen the same even if it was delidded .. i would just have a lower starting point.
all i neeed is just an effective cooling pad.. damn i would buy yours if you sold it.. i'm really not good at doing any modding believe me.. i'm a newbie in that.. i need a solution out of the box.. but thank you for the suggestion ))

 

damn :/ don't you guys sell your stuff on ebay or something? i would buy it .. isn't there any place where i could get this modded version?

 

My version is not even finished yet

Still have to properly secure all the cables and finish programming the fan curve.

 

I'm sure You will FIX it No need for cutting holes in the cooler if this is your problem

 

thank you for the suggestion . how would you reccomend the fans position for my laptop? all the 3 fans on the rear back to back onto the same line?

 

All 3x 120mm fans in a row exactly like my U3 MOD

 

That's the best position for fans for our case ? Wouldn't be better to put the middle fan a bit more low ? Because I mean , aren't the fan gonna blow directly into the laptop like that ? By doing so would not they counter flow and oppose to the warm flow coming from the laptop holes ? Sorry for the noob question XD


Inviato dal mio iPhone utilizzando Tapatalk

 

This is my dual 140mm setup:

 

Put them exactly as I said. All air flow has to be forced into the bottom grills as the pict of your machine. Push air into the plastic in the bottom lid doesn't do a ****y. The hot air go out from the rear grills, not out from the bottom grills.

 

Oh right that makes sense !


Inviato dal mio iPhone utilizzando Tapatalk

 

I did test all 3 fans as you said and my keyboard get really hot so i decide to turn the middle fan (suck hot air from middle of heatsink out) my temps are the same and keybaord isn't warm

 

That's an interesting result swapping the fan like that.