*** Official Clevo P775DM2/3(-G)/P75xDM2(-G) (Sager NP9152/NP9172) WINGMAN 2.0/BATMAN 3.0 Lounge ***

Careful. Not everything can be reseted by pulling the bios battery. Had a bunch of user in my inbox who bricked their systems by writing cmos variables. Not everything you see there has been assigned proper space in CMOS and corrupt even the backup table.
Certain options also brick the system when used via proper bios setup. Some reseller even sell their unlocked BIOS's with options that will cause a permanent brick when used only once...so much for quality control.

e.g. iGPU is physically not even connected...

 

Woah

That is quite serious!

BTW, Have you had a chance to do your magic for the P870tm series?

 

Testing:

http://hwbot.org/hardware/videocard/geforce_gtx_1080_notebook_mxm/

 

can you share the content of your inbox about "my inbox who bricked"?
i want to knows and i will abort that what can make brick
thanks

 

Compressed air can spin fans far faster than their rating and a fan run on reverse (spinning the blade using air) turns it into a generator and will generate a voltage on the fan header.

 

Listen to Meaker, this is pure physics, and you can short circuit the whole thing if you spin the fans, even if you spin them a little, it still produces induction current.

 

There is some tolerance built in but particular reverse spinning will throw around negative voltages

 

Has anyone noticed with updates from nvidia that temps on gpu seem to increase massively. Everytime I update to latest my gpu starts to really heat up over 10+ degrees hotter but if I uninstall and add the windows 10 self update drivers it's much better. There's no overclock on my gpu (1080) and my system is clean and has the usual undervolt and pasted with grizzly. It's a p775dm3-g

 

Can you try with previous nVidia drivers? I noticed some temp increase too, but didn't think was driver's fault.

 

Extra performance can often not be free in GPU loading but have you checked your contact pattern for the paste? Does it look thin and even?

 

I've tried previous drivers but it's always the same. Currently I'm running the driver Windows 10 installs automatically. Everything runs fine and I can play all my games without the CPU raging and fans going insane. With the driver update just running a few things at once chrome/vlc and few windows would have the fans ramping up and temps increased. I know with a shared heatsink any increase in gpu would show in the CPU heats increasing therefore more fan usage but surely just browsing like now I shouldn't be hearing fans at all.

 

I've done a few posts previously for my system showing contacts etc. I switched to liquid metal last year but worried about it shifting with me constantly moving my machine around between work and home so I switched to grizzly paste and it was fine. I tend to repaste every 3-6 months anyway and clean the system itself once a month. I wonder if the drivers are giving more performance? i'm tempted to test them with the basic drivers from win10 and then install lastest drivers and test again.

 

Hi, John@OBSIDIAN-PC, is this model affected by the latest security flaws (Spectre and Meltdown)? are you going to release BIOS updates for this model?
Thank you!

 

Everything running an Intel CPU is, and that doesn't really matter in the long run, an attacker needs to attack you specificaly for them to work, and if you had somebody targeting you like that, you'd really know it already, and you'd also know how to protect yourself already

 

Been lurking for awhile and decided to pickup a P775DM3-G at a good price. I purchased a 7700k from Silicon Lottery so I could have it delidded with a warranty. Plan is to use conductonaut on the CPU/GPU and undervolt the CPU. My only concern is that since I purchased it from a retailer that doesn't load a Prema bios that I might have some throttling issues. It's going to be plugged in almost 100% of the time and sitting on a laptop cooling pad (tree new bee pad). Also bought an intel 8265 to replace the older wifi/bluetooth Anything else I need to think about or do other than kindly and professionally PM Prema about a bios?

 

How far do you intend to push it?

 

Honestly, I'm good with stock clocks. I just want nice and cool temps. Without replacing thermal pads and using gc extreme on the GPU and CPU (no undervolting) it was 88c on cpu and 91c on GPU after running firestrike extreme on loop for an hour. I had it slightly propped up, but no cooling pad. I did that to get a baseline. Once it comes in I'm going repaste with conductonaut and undervolt; probably leave GPU where it's at and hope the conductonaut helps with temps.

 

The stock BIOS does fine for undervolting and tuning for stock speeds.

 

This was the golden tip to solve my overheating problems, thanks!

 

Excellent, glad to hear it's back to normal.

 

Hi everyone,
I have just bought my frist 775dm3, I have already managed to replace the screen to FHD 120hz ChiMei, set 7700k@4,5ghz stable at 1,19V, temps seems fina, 100% stress low 80s. I have found a very irritation problem, that my bios forgot the setting, and always start with override -100mv offset. The correct value for 4,5 is 55... all the settings remain expect this... bios set back to -100. Which cause in win contact freeze after the cpu usage kicks in... when I go to cpu settings in bios it says some kind of warning... anyone can help with that? it is an unlocked bios, machine bought from UK PC specialist? Are they prema partners? thx for the support in advance!

 

-100mv is what is standard from the clevo factory. I wonder why the single value is resetting though... Are you using any overclocking software too?

 

We had to remove Clevo's forced 100mV- undervolt in the PremaMod among other things like throttle, so whatever you have there as firmware is not a PremaMod.

 

The standard BIOS has a few values unlocked anyway so that might be what you are seeing.

 

Thank you for your answe! PCSpecialist is your (prema) partner? Is is possible to get a prema bios for it? I could solve with intel xtu startup to fix this -100mV undervolt issue, however I do not like this method.
Beside this, the bios has a very ugly Clevo Terminator startup logo... make me puke

 

Nope, they are not 'Prema Mod Partner'...did you buy it directly from them or is it second hand?

 

Yes, I am the second owner, my friend bought, but the warranty has been transfered to my account, I also have the original invoice. The laptop still has 2 year warranty...

 

So far I have some concerns about temps. I used conductonaut on the CPU and GPU. GPU doesn't get above 67C under full load for 30 min of Firestrike on loop. The CPU will reach 82C on stock clocks with a -136mv undervolt. The undervolt is stable, but I'm not getting the temps I would like. The fan curve is set to "overclock". If I underclock down to 4300mhz my temps are around 76-78C. I also did the easy mod using paperclips and toothpicks to apply extra pressure to the CPU and GPU. Is it worth trying to repaste the CPU? I've used liquid metal a few times before so I know how to apply it. Is is possible I just have a bad heatsink?

 

How good was the pattern from the normal thermal compound?

 

It appeared to completely cover the CPU.

 

Yeah, it could be a bad heatsink. Not the first time Clevo throw out a uneven/warped HS.

This does Not necessary mean you have a good fit between IHS and heatsink. Test the fit with cheap thin soft thermal paste, toothpaste or even medical cream/gel as I did. Don't use too much of it. Only enough for measure the fit. Same for the final application of thermal paste.

 

Thanks for the input! I'll do a fit test to really see if it's making good contact. If it is making good contact, is it just me or are those temps just way too high considering the -140mv undervolt at stock clocks?

 

yeah they are too high, you can do the undervolt and should be good.

 

Those temps are with the -140mv undervolt and underclock, it's a 7700k.

 

I haven't followed everything you wrote from wherever you started, but my first thought is you need better paste or a delidding, maybe even need to be making better contact.

Sometimes a 7700K doesn;t make as good contact and sometimes they have to use a copper shim, happens on many laptops with them.

at 4.3Ghz and underclocked you shouldn;t be hitting close to 80C unless your stressing it heavily. Also you could tell us what your fan tables are like maybe ?

You have this option I think to go as high as 150% on the fans.

So get me up to speed and maybe I can offer my 2 cents to help you.

I sold a few of these so I generally know it, especially what to expect from the CPU.

At stock I've had some of these shipped to me hitting 90C and usually low 70's once delidded and repasted, and about mid 70C-75C with 4.5Ghz when gaming, using it regularly. Benching can still make it hit 80C but thats 4.5Ghz not stock's 4.3Ghz

Ambient temps are also a factor, like we could have the exact same PC in two different houses and the temps would be different. But worst case you can play with the fan tables.

 

I haven't followed everything you wrote from wherever you started, but my first thought is you need better paste or a delidding, maybe even need to be making better contact.
It's a 7700k delidded from Silicon Lottery. I knew I wouldn't hit the OC'ing numbers they list, but I wanted a really nice delid job.

My temps haven't changed between using GC Extreme and Conductonaut. I used GC Extreme while I waited for the Conductonaut to come in, and have seen 0 difference in temps.

Sometimes a 7700K doesn;t make as good contact and sometimes they have to use a copper shim, happens on many laptops with them.

Can you suggest where to purchase a shim that would be appropriate?

at 4.3Ghz and underclocked you shouldn;t be hitting close to 80C unless your stressing it heavily. Also you could tell us what your fan tables are like maybe ?

I don't have a Prema bios, so I'm using the "Overclock" setting in the Clevo software

You have this option I think to go as high as 150% on the fans.

So get me up to speed and maybe I can offer my 2 cents to help you.

I sold a few of these so I generally know it, especially what to expect from the CPU.

At stock I've had some of these shipped to me hitting 90C and usually low 70's once delidded and repasted, and about mid 70C-75C with 4.5Ghz when gaming, using it regularly. Benching can still make it hit 80C but thats 4.5Ghz not stock's 4.3Ghz

I've been using Firestrike Extreme and just playing Overwatch that generates the numbers I've stated, ~80C undervolted -140mv and running at 4.2-4.3Ghz.

Ambient temps are also a factor, like we could have the exact same PC in two different houses and the temps would be different. But worst case you can play with the fan tables.
Ambient temp is 22C or less while using a cooling pad propped up so it has plenty of access to fresh air. I'm using the Tree New Bee cooling pad.

All of that to say, I'm quite happy with my GPU temps sitting at max of 66C under extended load

 

Coverage is fine, but was it consistent and thin? Do you remember?

 

It was with the GC Extreme that I used, and I used a thin layer with the Conductonaut, and added a very thin layer to the heatsink as well.

 

It's just liquid metal needs good contact and normal paste gives clues if there is a slight angle which could scupper the thinner margins you effectively have.

 

No need for shim. See if you can get one of this http://www.performance-pcs.com/bitspower-cpu-integrated-heat-spreader-silver-shining.html

Don't forget to do a lapping... See link in my previous post #4331.

If you have bad fit/contact... Try Phobya NanoGrease Extreme or ICD thermal paste. Only use Liquid metal if your heatsink have good fit on lid.

 

Ok, I can get a hold of the Bitspower IHS and the NanoGrease. Would that be my best route? Also using Conductonaut between the IHS and the die as well; that's what was used, but I assume I'll need to redo it if I'm replacing the IHS.

 

Yeah, You have to redo. Aka put new Conductonaut between the IHS and the die. As I said... Liquid metal ain't the best option with bad fit. But if the fit being better/good with the Bitspower IHS, then go for Conductonaut.

 

Ok, I'll give that a shot and work on lapping as well. Thanks!

EDIT: I assume, I'll need to redo the conductonaut on my GPU as well if I'm removing the heatsink?

 

It's unified Heatsink. You can look on how your Liquid metal looks when you disassemble HS. If it loook good maybe paint the old LM nicely on place again. I would clean up and apply new. Only when you open you can determine what you should do. Good luck

 

Is there any benefit/possibility to slightly lap the heatsink on the CPU side as well?

Thanks again for all of the help!

 

Only if you are correcting an angle or convex IHS matching issue.

 

I lap the heatsink slightly with 2000 grit paper if I replace old Liquid metal. Not needed but I do it this way. The problem is the IHS.

 

Hi,
I have managed to finetune my beloved 775dm3. Pretty stable at 4,6Ghz@1,2V (-45mV offset), gpu +180core +450mem. Temp "wise" under cod ww2 reaches 78-82C, which is ok. Tomorrow I go further 4,7-4,8 just to see firestrike results.
cheers

 

further update: 4,7ghz@1,25 (+15mV offset). It is pretty clear that my 7700k chip is potato, but that's what I have firestrike 18.900 points, temps 83-84D under cod ww2 gaming.

 

Thanks for this link. I was looking for the SL model with the extra height and they have them in stock. I ordered one. Spread test on my 775dm3 shows less than optimal fit.