*** Official Clevo P870DM/Sager NP9870-G Owner's Lounge - Phoenix has arisen! ***

Ahh! Thank you for the correction. But wont that setup push the PSU to its limits?

<3

 

You could actually just about get away with a P570wm with a single adapter at stock in games, just not so much if you loaded everything up.

 

Yup the P570 was just about ok on full load but it didn't really like the dreadded Prime95/Linpak and Furmark simultaneous running due to the 2x 100+ and 130W possible CPU. Though the 330W PSU had headroom to run higher.

@ssj92 - I think you have your answer from Prema ;-)

 

so the ones purchased from non-prema vendor have 330w limit?

 

They limit the maximum total board power draw. A stock system will throttle once CPU and SLI GTX980M are overclocked...even with modded vBIOS and Throttlestop.

Doing anything remotely to this would have been impossible for anyone but Clevo themselves:

Firestrike: http://www.3dmark.com/fs/8291254
3DM11: http://www.3dmark.com/3dm11/11199450
Vantage: http://www.3dmark.com/3dmv/5404030

 

prema bios mod remove the limit? how much power draw is allowed before the system throttle by then?

because hidevolution allow you to buy the 330x2 adapter

 

HEHE. @Mr. Fox has pushed the system power draw to over 800W using 4 x 330W bricks.

 

HIDevo is Prema Partner...just make sure to select their EVOC brand to get it with the Mod.

 

Bit expensive compared to others, but I think it's ok.


Did fox use (330x2)x2 plugged into a third power converter box?

With a 6700K UV + desktop 200w gpu 660w is still sufficient right?

Also, can this version of Intel 8260 work in the P870DM? http://www.ebay.com/itm/Genuine-Del...892617?hash=item3d1c01ea49:g:M04AAOSw3R1XTffX

 

Jupp and jupp!

 

I would guess that the 800w was the 180w 980 desktop in SLi


Any info on this intel 8260 work in P870DM? It's a dell model and not retail: http://www.ebay.com/itm/Genuine-Del...892617?hash=item3d1c01ea49:g:M04AAOSw3R1XTffX

A lot cheaper than what the retail 8260 goes for.

 

double

 

A single PSU should handle the desktop 980 and 6700K at stock just fine.

 

Nope, i dont remember it correctly, but it was either the desktop 980 200W or 2 x 980M's. And this was a while back.

Yes that Intel 8260 works.

Also HIDEvolution, does price matches. So talk to them once. My system actually ended up being cheaper than a lot of the others out there.

@Papusan pushes around 4.8Ghz / +300/+500 on the GPU, using a single brick. But that works out only for short durations, not for extended use.

The 200W 980 easily draws 250W+ If you are not using an AC to cool it (will need more volts to push higher clocks) and the 6700K at 4.8Ghz under loads will easily go over 100W.

 

but if the GPU is going to be OCed you would recommend 330x2?

I just bought the 9usd 8260, going to try to run it on the M15x first and see if it works or not




also the primatch, I'll do that. but unsure if they can exclude the cpu and stock wireless card

 

Depends how hard, but you should mostly still be ok. You could use a wall meter (and estimate PSU losses to 15-20%) to get the rough draw of the machine.

 

Price matches are usually for similar configs.

 

ah dammit
I really don't want to buy a cpu/wlan card from them if possible

What do you mean by 15-20% loss? So for Xwatt power draw the actual power draw of the system is 20% lower because of psu inefficiency?

 

Yeap, something like the full size PSU efficiency, like 80+ rating. Mostly its around 80% or so for the best PSU's.
http://www.corsair.com/en-us/blog/2...at-does-it-mean-and-what-is-the-benefit-to-me

 

Mobile supplies at the higher end find it harder to be more efficient due to the closed and passive design but yes around that level.

 

Ah okay.

Mobile pascal can't come soon enough

 

I have only been using one brick on my daily overclock of 4.4 on all 4 cores, -100mv, and 980 gpu 175/300. Unless you are really into benchmarking, or just have the extra cash I don't think most people need two bricks. It is really nice to have the option to use two when benchmarking or messing around though.

I want my daily overclock to be stable on one brick because when I do move my system around or take it out of the house I do not want to A) lug two bricks or B)Have to change my cpu and gpu settings back and forth.

 

I have one at work and one at home. Beats running around with that extra weight.
Single brick is more than enough for 4.6-4.7Ghz OC along with about 200/300 OC on the 200W 980.

 

Choo choo got derailed.

 

Yeah I keep one downstairs and one upstairs, and a third in my backpack so if I leave the house I have one with me. Heck I've used it in my truck to rip movies

That is good to know on the approximate limit of a single brick, thanks!

 

Worst day. Backpack came unzipped getting out of my car and my P870DM came crashing to the concrete, marking up the left rear side. It was a hard enough hit to break one of the plastic standoffs from the bottom cover. Ugh.

I can't tell if it will actually boot as I can't get anything on the display. It was in sleep mode when it crashed and when I opened the lid it made the Windows "wake up" sound, but no screen. Attempted a manual reset holding the power key but upon power on I still have no display.

I'm disassembling now to see what might have come loose. GPUs were firmly in their sockets. Boot drive is a 950 Pro.

Trying to figure out how to disassemble further. Does anyone have advice or a service manual or anything.

What a poo sandwich. Thanks in advance for any help!

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One thing while you have it apart, you may want to pop out the CMOS battery for a minute to fully reset the BIOS. I think it was under the keyboard on the left side.

*Also check the display cable(s) but I didn't notice where they were at on the board.

 

Tried external display ? Win 10 at leadt defaults to mirror both screens.
Thats what I like about my dedicated velcro secured laptop space for my 15" laptop. More trouble getting it out but safer.

 

I tried external HDMI to my TV and no dice. I'll have to take it to the office to check display port functionality. I'll definitely try the CMOS reset. Thanks for both of your replies so far!

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Best case scenario, the display cable is loose/damaged. Worst case scenario, display might have gotten damaged. Worst to worst case scenario, something on the motherboard is bye bye (unlikely).
Check these videos out :

http://forum.notebookreview.com/threads/how-to-upgrade-the-phoenix-clevo-p870dm-g-from-fhd-to-4k-picture-guide.787821/ (PICTURE GUIDE)







Be very careful, make sure nothing is stuck. Everything simply just pops out.

 

Can't thank you enough for this post. Now to watch some videos!

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You might be able to buy the chasis , but its super expensive.

http://www.eurocom.com/ec/upgrade(2,348,0)ec

 

Good luck, hopefully whatever you find is simple and free(or cheap) to fix. The bottom cover is an easy to replace item for sure. Most of us have either dropped a laptop, knocked it off a table or even spilled on it or at least known someone else whom has. It happens. Just learn from it and try not to do it again

 

Well unfortunately, I've followed all the videos and have a fully disassembled machine. I see absolutely nothing loose or damaged. One thing I can't really see is what I assume to be the GPU-display connection, but it seems secure.

I suppose I'll attempt to reassemble and hope that a CMOS reset fixes it or send my baby out for service. Holy screws, Batman. At least I'll get to apply a better coating of CLU on my way back to assembled.

Thanks for the help everyone, if you have any other ideas while it's skeletonized feel free to chime in! I'll give it time for a mixed drink before I attempt reassembly.

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Make sure you push the display connectors in properly. I once had my display connector slightly loose on the motherboard end and its seemed to be fully seated, but it wasn't. Also check the display end of the cable.
Can you post a picture of where the system hit the ground first?

 

While I'm letting the alcohol soak into the bloodstream, I want to express how easy this machine is to undress and get inside. Other than the sheer number of screws that hold it so well together, there's nothing tricky or inconvenient to getting to the bones.

The videos posted earlier are excellent guidance as well.

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This is where the initial impact was taken, best I can tell. Left side mainly on the lid, but some on the speaker area.

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Ouch, there is a good chance, the display side cable to the motherboard end of the it is either loose or the cable got squeezed.

 

Where the cable transitions from the motherboard on the left side of the display hinge, or inside the display lid?

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Where it transitions into the LID. If it gets squeezed there it can even get dislodged from the LCD side inside the LID. Its pretty easy to take the LCD LID off as well.

 

Gotcha. What's necessary to remove the lid? I don't have an iFixIt kit or anything. Obviously a LMGTFY link may be warranted. I appreciate your quick responses.

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A long finger nail, or a think kitchen knife / xacto will do. You will need to take those square stickers off, and then the screws under it.

 

You couldn't have made it a little bit harder? Doing that now. Thanks!

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Ouch! That blood soaked towel tells the story...

 

Haha im sure its just how it is colored.

 

Clu + strong sudden movement. Make sure the old Clu didn't leak or anything. It recently happened to a owner of a P750ZM. Those generally got bad heatsink connections though, so u might be fine with your pheonix

 

Throttlestop = 4 profiles for CPU + Nvidia Inspector with as many as you want for GPU = Two click

 

So is powerlimit removal a hardware mod done at manufacure or just through bios?

And jesus liquidbud thats some badluck getting it dammaged like that

 

Haha yeah the tie dyed cloth doesn't have blood on it. Well I got everything reassembled and I'm still having the same issues. I can't get video out on any port yet, but giving it time for the long CMOS reset boot that I'd read about.

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