*** Official Clevo P870DM/Sager NP9870-G Owner's Lounge - Phoenix has arisen! ***

If the Philips head is stripped, try laying a rubber band (wider than the screw head) over the screw and press the screwdriver into the rubber. This will sometimes allow the screwdriver head to grip the screw well enough to remove it.

 

(I would wait with the re-paste). Be sure you have new screws ready if the one you stuggle with being destroyed or already are damaged. You risk not being able to use this screw again. And heatsink wouldn't work properly with missing screws.

Edit. Be sure you use proper screwdriver.

 

Heating the PC will only expand the metal and stick it in fast.

Last resort is taking a serrated blade and running a groove in the screw so you can seat a flat head. Obviously blow out any metal dust and check none has got stuck anywhere once the heatsink is off.

 

I will try with some rubber, but the main issue is that the pressure is very very tight! Almost impossible to remove, to the point where my hands are sore after trying, I have three swollen fingers and that one screw didn't budge

Using proper screwdriver, and I have extra screws, if need be, but I can't remove this one!

Hm... That wouldn't work because of the small space actually

Heat worked for one screw that was also too tight.




Almost all of the screws were too tight to be removed without massive effort...

 

Just be careful with the heat. It's good that it worked for the one, but it would be cheaper to just break the head off and get a new X-bracket than buy a new GPU.

The screws being too tight is not uncommon when the vendor assembles things with a power screwdriver. The softness of the screws exacerbates the issue. I have replaced all of mine with stainless steel pan heat screws (larger head and deeper Philips slot, harder metal, etc.) for this reason. Going back together, there is no reason to cinch the screws down tight. They just need to be tightened until they stop with no extra force. That applies to all computer screws. No reason to make any of them super tight, just lightly snug.

 

Thank you for telling me!

Well... I will see what can be done...

About the heat, I didn't do anything too crazy, just ran a Cinebench and a Firestrike, then turned it off, then tried to unscrew.

 

Oh, that should be fine. I thought you meant some serious heat like a little butane torch or heat gun, LOL. Those screws on the spring arms can be a real bugger sometimes, and since they are recessed below the surface, cutting a slot in them it pretty difficult. If the head is not messed up too bad, see if you can use a very slightly larger screwdriver and tap lightly on the end of it with another screwdriver or something (nothing crazy like a hammer of course) while you are unscrewing it. You can get someone to help you if you need three hands. Sometimes the tapping vibration will help loosen it and it also helps to firmly seats the screwdriver tip into the damaged screw head. Hopefully, it is only over-tightened and not cross-threaded.

 

I don't know what the screw size my GPU uses to hold down the heatsink.

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I don't know if 1070 is the same size as 1080. Do you have an MSI 1070 or Clevo 1070? I think that varies by brand as well. Pre-Pascal Clevo used to be smaller than normal. Is the screw thread size the same as the WiFi or M.2 retaining screw?

This is what my Clevo and MSI 1080s use. These are the stainless steel pan head screws I mentioned. They are M2 size, same size as WiFi and M.2 retainer screw. Most of the other screws in the chassis are M2.5 size.

http://www.laptopscrews.com/M2x4.htm

 

I have the MSI 1070 and some of the heads are nearly gone so I would like to replace them ASAP.

 

You can get them at that link I posted. The improvement in the quality for something as seemingly simple and inconsequential as a screw is pretty amazing. The stainless steel pan head screws are so much better it's not even funny. They even feel different putting them it because they are not nearly as soft as the OEM screws and the screwdriver fits the slot so much better.

 

M1.6x2.5L for the 980dt

Service manual, exploded part diagrams part 9 on page 55

Though I found I needed bigger ones for my 1070s Xbrackets so maybe M2 is it.


Using the correct screw bit helps immensely in preventing stripping

 

1080 is M2 and Dell/Alienware have used M2 for years. The M1.6 screws used by Clevo was Mickey Mouse for way too long. Glad they finally started using a larger and more common M2 size.

 

Maybe @woodzstack would know?

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would know what ?

 

If his MSI 1070 installed in his P870DM-G uses the same M2 screw size as the Clevo and MSI 1080. Older Clevos used the chintzy little M1.6, but as far as I know everything newer uses M2 screw thread size.

These are what I bought for the P870DM3. Much better than the stock screws.

 

oh yeah everything is M2 these days. Though 6mm and 8mm. 4mm would be smaller then what you find everywhere, but it should be perfect for the graphics cards

 

That is what I thought, but thanks for confirming it for @thegh0sts. You are the expert here. I only know things about the stuff that I have. You sell a lot of different things. Thanks.

 

Pretty much m2 on clevo and MSI and Alienware. 6mm pretty much everywhere is perfect, THOUGH you will find 8mm in the hinges. The smaller ones, like on some backplates for backpanels on Alienware's and HDD caddy's, and then even smaller for the M.2 drives and wifi cards of various form factors are all the same.

Not sure if the sizes are like M1.8 and M.6 or like M1.6 and M1.4 or something, I only recognise the M2 size and it's lengths everywhere.

You can use 6mm ones in place ot the 8mm ones though even on hinges, and these are also good for the vidoecards in most cases, except where you have those 6mm extenders like in the F5 under the card. For those you at the least want better then some cheap M2 6mm, and usually they are 4mm and steel.

 

so M2 for the MSI 1070? looks smaller than that IIRC.

 

thats cause it's those smaller 4mm steel M2 bolts

 

I have a single 980m and the second gpu fan doesn't run, is there any way to activate it?

 

I believe it requires a GPU to be installed in the slave slot for it to spin.

 

Dont think so, since both the fans work with the 980DT.

 

You right. I forgot about that lol

 

anyone else getting a bsod with the latest windows update and IRQL not less or equal being the description

 

What were you doing during that time?

When I get that, it is usually a sign that it needs a windows reinstall because I broke something...

 

It's after it makes a rather large update I'm not sure if it's the creators update I haven't really been keeping tabs on Microsoft but it will go through the whole install process and then attempt to boot in almost like a fresh windows install and bam bsod. I have rolled it back about 3 times now.. I may just end up formatting as you said though


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performance-pcs.com offer Bitspower IHS(The Skylake model is also for Kaby lake - $15.95) if you wonder.

 

Good idea to oc 2400MHz RAM with Prema bios?

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@Prema
The 8700k will work on the new bios???

 

No chance. 8700k won't work in any board other than z370. While it fits physically, Intel changed the pinout

 

Looks like the idea of the silver IHS is spreading too.

https://videocardz.com/73268/intel-core-i7-8700k-ultra-edition-with-silver-ihs-teased

 

Wow for some of those prices. I could just buy a X299 CPU lol

 

How do you safely overclock 2400MHz RAM without a POST failure?

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Try the timings of the speed grade above that your manufacturer uses. Loosen them if they don't work.

 

Hello All,
Just a quick update, I7 6700 4Ghz CPU, Ballistix 16gb 2.4Ghz RAM, SSD1 480Gb and Samsung 960 EVO NVMe 250Gb all installed. Just waiting on my 980m GPU to turn up from China and it will be time to boot her up! Can't wait!

Some probably very simple questions for you all, what thickness tape do I need for the GPU heat sink. I've gone with the 980m for now just to get myself up and running but would like to eventually get it up to speed for VR for when I am home. Is the 1070 the only option? what is required to fit them? Most of the pages on this forum seem to be blank so I haven't had much luck.

With regard to BIOS set ups, where can I find these?

Thanks all!

 

980m is enough for VR. You can't do supersampling very much at all though if you're using the HTC Vive. A slight overclock will help too.

No idea on the BIOS

 

Excellent news, I have it all up and running, just having problems with the laptop not finding the graphics card, I think this is causing the vertical red lines across the screen which only happens on black colours but doesn't appear when I open applications so I'm fairly sure it's a driver issue. Just updating windows 10 now but most hardware drivers seem up to date.

 

Has anybody else noticed the new Aetina 1080, used in the Asrock Deskmini 1080? Looks like a better fit than the Sager 1080, and is normal MXM heatsink compatible unlike the MSI 1080.

http://www.aetina.com.tw/products-detail.php?i=201

 

There is any news about upgrade old p870dm with kaby lake?

 

No, coffee lake is around the corner so wait for that.... Good time to upgrade to a new system.

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Hello everyone,

For some reason Windows 10 isn't detecting the speakers in my P870DM system. System specs are:

I installed the drivers exactly in the order specified here:

http://forum.notebookreview.com/threads/clevo-p870dm-drivers-mirror.786094/

With no luck - Windows keeps stating that there are no speakers connected to the sytem when I do the right click/troubleshoot at the sound icon.

Any suggestions?

 

Does it detect the sound card device in Device Manager?

 

Unfortunately no, the only thing that shows up under "Sound, video, and game controllers" is Nvidia High Def Audio as you can see here:

https://imgur.com/4kMDj8t

Is this likely a hardware issue? Thanks so much for the reply btw.

 

Have you installed the drivers?

If it is not seen in Device Manager, it might be a hardware related issue...

 

Definitely installed the drivers and even did a completely new windows install again as this was a new system.

I think it is a hardware issue as well.

 

Any idea what to do if it's a hardware issue?

 

Send back to the seller you bought from. The Soundcard is embedded in the motherboard as far as I know, so you might require the whole motherboard exchanged, if they cannot fix it by fixing the motherboard.

 

I think its actually on a separate board under the subwoofer (next to the battery) There are three flex cables there; check they are still connected firmly.