*** Official Clevo P870DM/Sager NP9870-G Owner's Lounge - Phoenix has arisen! ***

I just got the standard one year warranty.

 

I did ask for it and I dont believe I was charged with anything. Now whether I actually got it was another question.....

Will report back tomorrow.

 

You are right I just checked Mr.Fox's photos and its not on there

 

Well I just placed my order! Should get this baby just in time for Xmas

 

So I'm running in to an issue, got this yesterday, installed Win 10 and got drivers installed, everything showing up as good in device manager however, I cannot find a way to enroll fingerprints using the fingerprint reader. Has anyone figured this out? Its not a huge deal but would be nice to have everything on this thing working.

Thank you.

 

I would like to remove the black paint from certain parts of the cooling system to be able to put some additional heatpipes on and get clean copper to copper contact. What would be the the best method to remove the paint? Aceton maybe?

I have a SLI system and have a temperature difference between the two cards higher than 10 c. I already tested out to connect both VGA heatsinks/heatpipes with an additional flat heatpipe and get good results, temperature difference is now only 3-5 c between the cards, the slave card (the one with the smaller fan and heatsink in the middle) runs significantly cooler now.

 

My order updated and is shipping to XoticPC.

Further waiting ensues...


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

Shipping to XOTIC or shipping to you? Confused did they order it for you?

Sent from my LG-H901 using Tapatalk

 

To get free shipping, it goes from Sager to XPC, then back.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

What extra heatsink/heatpipe did you use?

 

My laptop still hasn't shipped, they said it should ship by tomorrow so let's see...

 

I use at the moment a flat pipe from thermasol, however it does not fit perfectly so I will order flat pipes from quickcool and will try to connect all 3 heatsinks together.


Gesendet von meinem SM-G928F mit Tapatalk

 

Nice

http://amecthermasol.co.uk/product412.php?url=1&page=282&ty=4&gr=30&fg=148

What is the sink at the cooling end of the pipe? Part of the chassis? Photo?

I didn't see any flat / wide pipes from QuickCool, which model(s) are you thinking of trying? Or a custom one?

http://www.quick-cool-shop.de/en/

It would be cool if someone could make a heat transfer jacket for M.2 drives with custom pipe extension to connect in to the system cooling system, or end tipped in a heat exchanger of it's own to vent through the chassis or externally somehow.

 

after watching mrfox's review my hands all sweaty now

MUST GET

 

Here is a picture of my mod.



In Germany one can order the quickcool flat pipes (1mm thickness) from conrad-elektronik for example. They have pictures of the pipes at their site. Name of pipes: QuickCool QG-SHP-H1.00.

 

Don't have the actual unit yet until early next year But I'm curious if anyone tried installing Win7 on a Samsung SSD (SATA) and then cloning it via Samsung Magician on the nvme drive

Regards,
Mark

 

Thanks, that's a really good looking implementation

It looks like they should have tried a bit harder to get that middle fan / heat exchanger the same capacity as the outboard(s). It might require a wider chassis to accommodate three large fans / exchangers in a row. That would make room for an 18" screen

It does look like they passed some of the heat off through the CPU plate / cooling system, maybe they should have done more, or split some off to the other outboard cooling system - where you tied in.

So are you thinking of splitting some more heat off to the CPU cooling system?

Did you notice a balance of heat / temp increase on the other GPU, as heat from the inboard GPU went down - those few degree's of additional temperature drop - did they cause the lower temp GPU to rise in temp?

 

Before mod temps were e.g. in heaven after 30 min about 70c for GPU1 one and about 80c for GPU2 (middle one). Now GPU2 is at about 75 and GPU1 is in the range of 71-73 c.
I will do some more test when I find the time.

 

Nice Mod. I have ordered the Sli's in my XMG also. I can get the same flat heatpipes from Conrad.at. Please post some more photos of the Mod as you rework it as I will probably do the same with mine

 

On windows 10 you have to set it up a PIN first for your user account then you can add fingerprints. Its all done from the same settings page which is called something like 'accounts' and then the sign in options tab. If you look in the manual, I am pretty sure I saw a section which tells you how to set it up.

 

If I change any settings on the laptop for example powerplan or It could be anything whenever I do a restart of the computer the settings I changed don't stick and they always revert to what they were previously anyone know how to fix this I'm on Windows 10

 

Kinguin.net - I have purchased Windows 7, 8.1 and 10 from their web site and many games. Never any issues at all.

Maybe this video will help explain it even though we don't fully understand it. Perhaps when @ Prema is done with his vacation it might be something he can isolate and castrate in BIOS code. If nothing else it would at least look better to have static clock speeds, so maybe @unclewebb can kill that nonsense with ThrottleStop for all 6700K owners. I really hate "efficiency" that looks like that. It gives an impression of malfunction even when it works exactly as intended. I really don't give a rat's butt about reducing power consumption or extending battery run time and stupid idiot stuff like that. But hey, that's status quo for the screwed up world we live in today. I suspect Skylake facilitates that sort of retardedness in the post-modern era. Stuff like that is almost a religious experience for tree-huggers.

[parsehtml]<iframe width="853" height="480" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/WDnGUcOHLlE?rel=0" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen></iframe>[/parsehtml]

That's an interesting mod. Great idea, but I wonder about something... How fragile is the flat pipe? How is it attached to the heat sinks? What sort of complication will having that attached present for applying new thermal paste without damaging the flat pipe, GPU heat sink(s) or both? Have you explored that yet?

I had not seen how the heat pipes are routed for SLI. Looks like repasting the CPU will require repasting at least the secondary GPU whether you need to or not. Too bad the one pipe has to interfere with the CPU heat sink.

 

Setting a pin does not give me an option to add a fingerprint :\.

 

I am also a owner of p750zm and I am a big fan of the shared heatpipe design between cpu and gpu. Unfortunately Clevo did not implement this in the phoenix. Maybe the reason for this is the argument of Mr. Fox that you would need to disassemble CPU and GPU coolers if you want to repaste just CPU or GPU(s).

I would really have liked to see Clevo use 3 identical fans and coolers, however the fan AND cooler in the middle seems to be significantly weaker. I think they did this to be able to use the laptop with GTX 980 as well as 980m SLI. However, I also think if they had tried harder, they could have designed the laptop with 3 identical fans, without making the machine wider. They did not, resulting in more than 10 c higher temps of GPU2 and different noise characteristics of the fans.

Don´t get me wrong, this is a marvelous machine, but it´s not perfect. I cannot change the different fan design, but it should be easy to add some pipes with adhesive tape. My first iteration is just a proof of concept. In my second one I will use traditional 1mm flat pipes connecting all 3 coolers from left to right (35 cm long pipes) and see what happens.

I plan using this machine primarily for GPU benching and gaming. When gaming my CPU stays at around 60 c even without CLU. So I think in this scenario the CPU cooler can be useful for additional GPU cooling, just like in the P751. My aim is to get lower GPU temperatures AND identical temps between GPU1 and 2. If we are able to use two 980s in SLI in the future (180W version anyone?), the weak cooling design of GPU2 will be imho a much bigger problem.

@ Mr. Fox: The modded heatpipe in use is very stable and I unmounted it a couple of times, no bending so far. However, it´s too wide and does not fit properly. I think the use of thermally conductive adhesive tape is fine, as the pipe is additionally pushed towards the original pipes by the mounted bottom cover.

 

Thanks for the explanation @bsch3r

I wonder how difficult it might be to fashion a clamping mechanism that works kind of like a money clip? So, a wide and flat spring steel clamp to slide over the flat pipe and under the heat sinks on each end to clamp them together and thermal paste like IC Diamond or Gelid GC Extreme between them to help with the thermal transfer. If you need to remove it, just slide the clips off of each end. Something simple, like stealing the metal belt clip off of a couple of old carpentry tape measures might even work.

I have not looked at the links yet. Are the flat pipes available in more than one width and length? Maybe connecting the the two closer to the GPU might give more space to work. It would be interesting to see if the behavior or effectiveness changes based on placement location. In other words, would the balance be most effective closer to the GPU or closer to the heat sink radiator? One would need to test and find out.

 

@ Mr. Fox: Yes, a clip might also work. The flat pipes are available in 10, 15, 20, 30 and 35 cm length. I tried different positions of pipe placement, and so far the actual position worked best. Maybe it will be even more effective to connect also the CPU cooler with a long pipe. This is what I´m planning to do next. I already ordered 3 35cm pipes. Should arrive at the end of the weak. Thanks for the feedback.

 

Read page 6-35 of the manual onwards. Setting a fingerprint option should be below the set a pin option (under windows hello) so if you don't have it I would suggest that you probably don't have the correct drivers installed. You can get them from the clevo website

 

As the flat pipes appear to use evaporation and condensation like a normal heat pipe, it might also be effective, if space permits, to attach one to each heat sink cooling pipes and have it wrap around in a "U" shape in the space between the heat sink pipes and motherboard. You could permanently attach the flat pipe to the bottom of the heat pipes with thermal adhesive (the side facing the bottom cover) and that would give the ideal arrangement for evaporative cooling with the hot area at the bottom and the evaporator area above it and not making contact with anything.

 

Ordered my P870DM-G barebone build from rjtech, to which I also added:

GTX 980M
Intel Dual Band Wireless-AC 8260​

$1660 total.

I will be adding my own (purchased separately):
i7-6700k
64GB (4x16GB) G.Skill DDR4 2400
Samsung 850 EVO 1TB SSD

Planning to delid and apply CLU to CPU and GPU.

By the way, I also modded a similar laptop cooler as Mr.Fox (as he shows here: http://imgur.com/a/IGq3C#2), though I'm using two Gentle Typhoon 1450 with a Modtek 4pin Molex 2A AC/DC Power Adapter.

 

@Mr. Fox: Not sure if I understood this correctly, but it sounds sophisticated. Have you thought about patenting this? ;-) Problem might be u-shaping the flat pipes, especially the ones with 1mm thickness, I think you can easily make them dysfunctional when trying to bend. But maybe with a bending tool.

 

I was looking at the examples shown on their web site of the flat pipes being bent into different shapes. They have published the tightest radius allowed for each size of flat pipe. I think you have to be careful to avoid kinking them and pinching off the channels because the liquid inside will not be able to work as intended if the channels are pinched closed.

 

Even just the thought of bending stuff in a new laptop makes me shiver. You guys are nuts!

 

After doing a little research today about the Heatpipes I stumbled across these Heat Diffusers, they might be easier to surface mount on the bottom side of the existing Heatpipes. This would bring them closer to the bottom vents of the Laptop and with fans mounted on a U2 cooler platform or something similar, they could draw a lot of extra heat away from the system. I'm going to call them tomorrow and ask some questions. If the thickness is close to that of the IHS (and it's stable enough) you might be able to replace the IHS with one of these. I think there's going to be some experimentation time next week...as soon as my XMG gets here.

http://www.quick-cool-shop.de/en/heatdiffuser/heatdiffuser-quadratic/heat-diffuser-quadratic.html

 

The bending referred to is an aftermarket part, not bending the stock heat sinks. I would not start bending on the stock heat sinks. If you make a mistake or ruin one of them, replacement parts like heat sinks may not be readily available on this new machine.

I don't have 980M SLI in this yet, but if it is anything similar to GTX 980 thermals it does not need help with cooling. Even though there is a variance between them on SLI, to some extent that is normal. As long as the temps are good, it doesn't really matter if they are equal on primary and secondary GPU. If the temps are not good, that's a totally different situation.

 

http://www.3dmark.com/3dm/9555613?

firestrike score, crippled by lack of unlocked bios. Horrible score.... Such a shame considering I got a decent ASIC value for both cards.

Core is maxed to +135mhz and memory is at +400mhz.

 

You're kidding right? Your 13K+ physics (CPU) score is AMAZING for a Quad CPU and you probably won't get much higher than that even with the unlocked BIOS. The GPU score is also excellent for such low clock speeds and your machine seems to be running like a Swiss watch. Are you using dual 330W AC adapters?

I am not certain that any of Prema's partners have the special firmware yet. I am using RC1 firmware and still testing that while he is on vacation. I am also trying some memory firmware tweaks while he is on vacation. My goal is to hit 5.0GHz on CPU and 3000 on RAM. Not sure if I will get there or not, but it won't be for lack of trying. If not, 4.8GHz and 2800 on RAM is still stinking wild and crazy good, especially as low as the temps are.

 

Hmmm, I guess I overestimated the performance of 980M SLI. Still on single adapter for now. I am still playing with some tweaks but I am expecting 21k graphic score to be honest. Which, now that I think about it, its actually only 5% higher. Thanks again fox.

By the way, one of my card is getting 10C hotter then the other. Should I be too worried about it?

Edit: Speakers are amazing!!!

 

A few things to help relieve your mind:

• A single 330W AC adapter is enough for just one GTX 980M overclocked and barely enough for GTX 980 overclocked. With SLI, I am actually surprised the machine has not already shut down on you due to lack of power. A laptop with 980M SLI with a heavy CPU and GPU overclock can easily pull over 500W from the wall with a 100W CPU.
• A 10°C variance between GPUs in a SLI or CrossFire laptop is not entirely unusual. I have NEVER seen an example of them having exactly the same temps. As long as neither one is getting overheated, don't sweat it. Not a big deal and totally normal. I have had laptops with 4870M CF, 5870M CF, 6790M CF, 6990M CF, 7970M CF, 8800M SLI, 580M SLI, 680M SLI, 780M SLI and 980M SLI and all of them have had one GPU that ran anywhere from 5 to 10°C warmer than the other one. It may be as simple as the cooler one having a better thermal paste job. If you are staying below 80°C with an extreme GPU overclocking everything is good.
• NVIDIA stock GPU firmware always sucks... I have never seen an example of GeForce MXM cards that run right with the stock vBIOS... ever. They all act spastic and throttle since Fermi days with a stock vBIOS. Once you have the Prema vBIOS it will be like a different machine. What you see now is expected for a stock vBIOS with limited adjustment, a bunch of locked down crap and fixed voltage. Check your max temps and watch the clocks during the benchmark. Be sure NVIDIA Control Panel is set to use the Global Settings profile, not "let the 3D Application Decide" and be sure the Global Profile has the power management mode set to "Prefer Maximum Performance" or your GeForce cards will be crippled at the driver level.

 

Thank you!!! I am planning on grabbing the second 330w AC adapter and converter once I got the vBIOS, I cant wait until I can put some proper clock on the 980m and get it to at least a 970 level. As for the temperature, edmonton winter can get to around -30.

 

Also, look in the BIOS. If the stock BIOS has anything called NVIDIA GPU Scaling or something similar, disable that garbage immediately. That is there to block overclocking and cripple the GPU(s) to reduce power consumption on turdbooks that are ill equipped to handle extreme performance demands. You do not want that enabled if there is an option for it. It is being marketed as some kind of fancy feature, but it's not. See quotes below.

 

Ofcourse, anything that is designed to conserve power/save battery is an enemy to performance.

 

• http://forum.notebookreview.com/thr...80m-sli-upgrade.765169/page-291#post-10149194

 

oh snap, that option is there in the stock BIOS, I initially thought that means like to enable SLI thanks for pointing this out.

 

Regarding the Heat diffusers from Quick Cool
http://www.quick-cool-shop.de/en/heatdiffuser/heatdiffuser-quadratic/heat-diffuser-quadratic.html

I spoke with them this morning and asked specificly about mounting these diffusers directly on the underside of the existing heat pipes in a laptop (side closest to the air vents in the case bottom) and fixing them with a Thermal Glue. The diffusers don't have a top or bottom side and will work in both Vertical and Horozontal planes. The efficiency is less when mounted in the Vertical position though. The surface of the heat pipes would need to have the black paint sanded down to expose the copper and then glued with the Thermal Adheisive. The closer the "cool side" of the diffuser is to the cooler air of the exterior the more efficienct they will be. I imagine with the "forced air" from the fans on an external cooler blowing across them they should be very efficient. Depending on the clearances inside the bottom cover it could be possible to use multiple diffusers per heatpipe set (I won't know untill my new XMG gets here next week). The diffusers are 3mm in height. As for replacing the IHS with a diffuser, he didn't know....That will require some testing to see if it works. I ordered 3 of them to play with. If they work it could be an easier way to pull out more heat from the system without modifying or bridging the two GPU Heatsink pipes.

 

What´s considered a good ASIC an 980m? Pls provide your ASIC. Mine are 69.5(GPU1) and 67.1(GPU2, Slave in the middle of the chassis). On a desktop I would consider this rather poor.

I bet the GPU in the center of the chassis connected to the smaller fan in the middle is the hotter one, isn´t it?

 

I´m looking forward for pictures ;-)

 

Yesss....Just got a reply from Schenker/mySN that the laptop is finished and will ship today, hopefully I'll get it by Monday....

 

I have a few more questions if you don't mind.... it's still not clear to me what config do you have
1. do you have the 6700 or the 6700K
2. can you tell if the CPU or the GPU fan/s generate/s more noise?
3. using the silent profile in the clevo app cuts down the noise a lot, is it usable while gaming?

I was also concerned about the machine noise and I am looking for a 6700k and 980 combination... but I want the machine to be quiet... I have the same setup wife/living room/noise ... so I was thinking that 6700 and 980 could be a better combo regarding the noise. On the other hand you can always take the 6700k to the 6700 level of performance and make the CPU fan more silent

Thank you

 

Even on OC, the fans are not THAT loud with 980M SLI. Compare to some of AMD's desktop cards, its practically silent!

 

79. and 80 is my asic score. And yes.