*** Official Clevo P870DM/Sager NP9870-G Owner's Lounge - Phoenix has arisen! ***

Don't send the whole laptop lol just that 1 ram stick..

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I can remove it? How?
You mean that i have to give back the" kingston hyper x?" Because i tried to put there the other kingston ram and i have the same problem.

Anyway i forget to say you that when i put the ram inside the port C i can hear some "tic-tic"
So for sure is faulty

 

Prema is a forum member who provides a great service unlocking the BIOS on these machines. You can find Prema in a member search, or invoke @Prema.

The list of Prema Partners are Clevo boutiques that have enlisted Prema's help shipping this unlocked (or varied) BIOS already flashed on the Clevo they sell (or at the very least get you Prema's BIOS for flashing and support the warranty on that machine. You just need to check with the Prema partner for details. The list of partners can be found here - https://biosmods.wordpress.com/partner/

 

Report everything you experienced and did to your reseller. they should have a list of options for you.

 

This is what they write.
Robert
Is system working fine with 2133 memory?
Sky X9 is extremely stable system and we have experience any issues with RAM sockets.

It maybe that your Kingston memory is below the spec. There is not real 2400 memory available yet so you should stick with 2133 for now

We will see 2400 memory around March 2016 for now Kingston is overclocking 2133 to 2400 so sometimes there are timing issues.

This is what they answer.. What you think?

 

Just wandering through the thread and flying through the posts...

I'm one of those unfortunate AW17 R2 Owners after they switched my 3 times smoked R1 ( did you ever see sparks coming out if the vents? ^^ ) to that one... Actually I'm experiencing those nice 800Mhz Problems when I'm running ARK or sth. similar and my GPU runs around 100%. I HATE Handbrake every 2 minutes... GPU is at 75°C at that time... 4980 I7 and GTX 980M is fast and nice, but not if you get 10FPS every 5 minutes.

Now after a bit arguing Dell denies me another exchange to a R3. They only give me my money back. So I have to take another grand extra to get a similar machine. Since I don't know how to cope with that throttling except switching off BD PROCHOT ( and as far as i think smoking my GPU that way... ).


Ok reason for my post...

After that 1 Year Dell incident I deny going for a ROG. Seems to be the same **** there... So there is only a single choice left. Clevo P870DM-G.

I can't afford going for 980m SLI. That's 500 bucks too much. I even have to use my msata ( EVO 840 ) in a 2.5 case to keep the price low.

Config of my choice is a 6700k and a GTX 980 with 16 Gig, FHD Display and a standard HD. Results in a 3000€ config. 1000 more than my R2 and a big hole in my pocket.



I've tried to read the whole thread... Reached around page 45? and backwards page 110.

Are there any throttling problems with the Clevo? Other problems? I'm not planning to reach for record benchmarks... Just want to play my games fast and without problems.

I've read sth about a throttle issue which Mr.Fox has solved? Didn't find the initial posts until now. Must be between page 45 and 110 lol. Only a quote stating that there where issues and they worked out with a static voltage?

Need to do my decision this weekend. Keeping that R2 and SOMEHOW find out how to avoid throttling. Or kick Dells ass, pay another ****in grad and get a Clevo hoping I will enjoy my evenings playing without any issues...



EDIT: Just found Matrix' Review. Is that issue meant? If yes, is it there with a single 980, too?

 

Upgraded Win 7 to Win 10, thought I'd share in case someone wants to do it the same way.

I had a Windows 7 Professional key and a bootable USB which didn't install properly with UEFI enabled. I found some workarounds but decided to not use them (after trying a couple of easiest).
What I did is:
0)Disabled UEFI in BIOS settings
1)Installed Windows 7 in legacy mode (with USB drivers saved preemptively)
2)Installed all available updates so that I had Win 10 upgrade application
3)Upgraded to Windows 10 (encountered some weird BSODs because of my Razer Kraken USB headset (had to unplug), had spent quite some time looking for the reason of errors)
4)Created bootable USB of Win 10
5)Enabled UEFI
6)Did a clean install of Win 10 (since I had some weird behavior I decided this was a better way to go)

All in all it would take me about 3 hours if I repeat process now knowing what I am doing. I'm not sure if step 2 is necessary though, I had Win7 SP1, so I could probably use Media Creation tool right away, SP1 is the official requirement for upgrade. Without step 2 everything takes about an hour.

Now I've ran some game tests (and Heaven) - extreme preset for Heaven heats 970m's to 62-68 (master-slave respectively), normal gaming temperatures are about 55-60 (master-slave). Seems really good.

 

There is a cpu current issue still affecting the machine and being able to hold CPU clocks when SLI is enabled and pushed into overclocking. With one GPU enabled you do not see this until power values are pushed into the extreme levels and then it's still not easy to identify. With both GPUS enabled it is visible quickly and a real issue once you start overclocking the GPUS, once pushed to extreme levels the cpu will throttle down to 3.6 to 3.7 ghz not allowing me to smile ear to ear.

In testing Mr. Fox experienced the same issue after our discussion over PM with his 980 gpu equiped machine so it's validated and he has a fix.

With further testing the issue was determined to be a problem with the EC firmware. Mr. Fox has tested the older firmware version and the issue doesn't exist solving the problem. Its been said that a new EC version is in testing to resolve the cpu current throttle but nothing is released at this time.

The good part, keep in mind all of us that have been testing do have a vested interest in this product because we know it's potential and know how to get the job done including Mr. Fox, Prema and this forums admin.

The great part, it's still an awesome machine and the EC issue is not something the average person would notice especially without sli. I have been extremely happy after working with a few board members and achieving stock performance to be greater than any machine I have owned so far. There is much more to come and remember great achievments are never easy.

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Hello everyone, i'm thinking about getting this laptop, but can't decide between 980m sli or 980 desktop class, so i have a few questions.

1. Heat output. Which one generates more heat under full load? 980m sli or desktop 980?

2. Performance. I know that the 980m sli performs better than the 980 desktop but by how much in average?

3. Vendor. I live in california near sager hq, so i think i'll get the laptop faster if i order from them, do they give discounts?

4. Prema mod. Can i obtain and install prema mod if i get the laptop from sager?

 

Heat on the 980M SLI is around 60C max while benchmarking, 34-44C while just surfing the web

Can't comment on the heat of the desktop version since I don't have it.

With the bad drivers nVIDIA have been releasing for the past year, if I had the chance again, I would get the desktop 980 and be done with the crappy SLI profiles. If you wanna benchmark though, the 980M SLI will always beat a single 980

So if you don't care about benchmarks and just want a headache free gaming experience, go for a single 980

 

You think the laptop will be cooler if there is only a single 980 desktop?

Does the screen uses pwm? Flicker free?

 

That's what I just said, I don't have a 980 Desktop so I can't answer that.

I don't know what's PWM but I have a G-Sync screen and there is 0 flicker and 0 tearing. Best screen I ever owned on any computer. Even better than the ASUS PG278Q monitor which I had on my desktop PC previously, that one had a lot of flicker.

 

60C under max load?
Some heavy modding right there. Well, you have a modded heatsink from HIDevolution, and I guess you have a really good TIM (CLU?). Because normally 980m should be around mid 70-high 80 under benchmark conditions (slave being hotter), and sub-70 in normal gaming situations.
People have reported even high 80-s in this thread.

 

With removing the crap blocking the bottom cover I gamed for 3 hours and nothing went over 70c sitting on a cooler with the lid closed on an external monitor at 2560x1080p res 60fps.

Only ICD paste also.

Benching is usually short term unless you loop to test stability.

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70 degrees in gaming situation are fine, however, IMHO 60C in benchmarks is very low. I'm talking about stable temperature, since technically you can interrupt a test after 10 seconds, but these temperatures values will be useless.

 

Talking temps is a difficult subject all together, all we do is share our experience such as below another test I performed.

10 min loop on unigine valley on ultra was 75c on the slave gpu.

70deg air temp

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The GPU has no mods, the Advanced Copper Heatsink and CLU is on the CPU. GPUs have stock IC Diamond.

Sorry, my bad, I just checked my review and GPU temps were around 80C in a benchmark:

 

Replacement arrived a couple days ago, they were extremely quick about it. Arrived in great condition besides a small ding in the bottom cover, they're sending me a replacement cover.

Unfortunately, I'm going to have to RMA 2 of my 2400mhz HyperX sticks as well, since they seem to be faulty. Tons and tons of BSOD's during OS installation and on the desktop with all 4 sticks in (just kept getting worse and worse), and completely fine with only 2 sticks in it. Sticks passed memory diagnostics oddly, so hopefully it's not a bad slot on the MB as I really don't want to ship it off for a 2nd time.

Unfortunate experience ever since I placed the order. Will update with how Sager proceeds.

 

Usually you can extrapolate the correct temperature, because graphs will asymptotically approach it, at about 1/t rate, so while there is not an exact right benchmark duration, we are still talking about some well defined values

 

It's hard comparing machines though as the temperature sensors can vary a bit even before taking into account silicon quality.

 

Starting to love this forum. Jeez should have found it last year to avoid my AW disaster... Thx for your Info GTEVO.

And yep, I've already seen how much is put into everything here. Lot of knowledge and, much more important, experience around. And people willing to use their knowledge and help. ( Thx for that )

I will do a last test with older nvidia drivers, because Prema mentioned in his vbios thread, that nvidia introduced those throttling issues around 347 drivers. If that doesn't work... Midfing to AW, hello Clevo.

 

@Matrix Leader. 60c Underdog heavy load, with stock Fan speed or Full Fan speed?

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If you read my previous experience you will read that 2400 memory is not faulty.. Just they are not yet supported from the bios exc.. I spoke with eurocom and they said that they will update soon the bios and increase the power on the ram socket.. Now you can have only 2133 memory with overclock to 2400.. I remove also the 4x8 hyper 2400.. Because working only 3.. Just waiting the bios updatE

This is the answer

Roberto
Use for now 2133 - we will update BIOS/EC soon and provide more power to all RAM slots so 4pcs of 2400 will work correctly.

We are still tunning up BIOS

 

Are you having SLI gpu utilization issues as well?

 

I think the original bios supported it, also... Possible stop gap?

 

I think the problem is 8GB capacity HyperX modules are unreliable. The 16GB Micron (Crucial) 2133 memory works great and overclock to 2400 just fine and the 4GB HyperX 2400 run 2400 and overclock up to 2800. But, for some reason it seems that the 8GB HyperX modules are just buggy junk. The 8GB 2666 modules are not bootable... stays stuck on a black screen and the machine cannot POST with them installed. In order to make them usable, the SPD was rebuilt using all of the same values as the 4GB 2400 modules and only then were they bootable.

 

That's pretty ridiculous they would even list the HyperX as an option for the ram if that's the case. So Sager is knowingly shipping these computers with ram sticks that may or may not work correctly due to the current bios? As a business owner myself, that is completely asinine.

Edit: And just for reference, my computer did boot up originally with all 4 sticks installed but got progressively worse and would bsod/freeze/shutdown at random times over the next 3 days to the point where it would bsod during re-installation of the OS until I removed 2 sticks.

 

I think that is not accurate for reasons already posted. They should have at least tested them machine before shipping it if those are what it came with, but I believe the issue is the memory itself rather than the BIOS.

 

Is DDR4 sodimms still this unreliable? Dodged a bullet there by going for the cheap ram.

 

Whether it's the timings on the ram being reconfigured, the bios, or both.....this is something that shouldn't be listed as an official option if we're at the point of saying "well it may be this or that" since it's obvious I'm not the only one. This should've been extensively tested to be as reliable as the 2133mhz standard option before they even started taking orders. Blame is on both Kingston/Sager.

Personally, I started getting random freezes/shutdowns/bsods 6 hours after installation, so unless they test it for more than 6 hours in desktop mode then I'm sure more people will be having issues with the 4x8gb 2400mhz option until the "fix" is released. I'm more inclined to believe it needs more voltage for the timings with 4 sticks and might also be overloading the IMC requiring again, more voltage when all 4 slots are populated at faster speeds on stock bios. Which would point to it being a bios fix as Eurocom stated....but also craptastic QC from Kingston.

I e-mailed Eric from XotixPC so we'll see what reply Sager gives them when Monday rolls around.

Now for some good news, my ASIC on both gpu's are 80.5% and 76.9% respectively so I should get some nice OC potential once my system is fully operational and I get my hands on the vBios from Prema.

 

Mr Fox what you think its better that i sell the ram?

About prema bios when when is released more or less?

 

Kick Dells ass and get a Clevo

 

Hi Mr.Fox. I just tried the method you wrote here but am still not able to boot. The phoenix will just sit idle for a while with the screen still blank/off and then the fans rev up just to shut itself off again. Is there something I'm doing wrong here or something else I can try? Also, my OS is on an m.2 drive (samsung 950 pro 512GB), would that effect whether it can or will boot itself back up or not? Or is doing this just really time taxing and fails more often then not?

 

60c max. GPU Temperatur with max. fan or automatic fan?

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Whew...after about 12 hours sitting in front of my new beast I finally got Win7 to install. The problem was the USB 3.0 drivers that I had origanally slipstreamed into the USB install package didn't "slip" correctly(The Bios from XMG dosn't have the possibility to use Legacy Mode for USB Ports). I could see the drivers in the Boot(X) but it wouldn't recognize the drivers as Valid. I first slipstreamed the drivers in using the Cmd Promt method, ( http://codeabitwiser.com/2014/03/how-to-install-windows-7-with-only-usb-3-0-ports/ ) eventhough it reported everything sucessful it wasn't. Next I tried a Program called Ntlite ( https://www.ntlite.com ) It's free and really super. I think my failure on this second attempt stemmed from the fact that I used the previously slipstreamed Install.wim and boot.wim that I modded with the Cmd Prompt. I reslipstreamed the USB drivers along with 265 Updates (SP1, .net, Security etc...) into the package and it still didn't work. At this point I was about to pull what little Hair I have left out, so I decided to do a Dual Boot Win 10 and Win 7. This worked great, but I hated win 10 and the "Lost" 50GB partition on my Samsung 250GB m.2 Drive. The screen to choose the OS was also annoying.

At this point I stumbled across a webpage that mentioned an Intel Win 7 driver utility tool, This was the Key...it worked great.( https://downloadcenter.intel.com/download/25476/Windows-7-USB-3-0-Creator-Utility)
I deleted the modded install package from the USB Drive and copied a "Fresh" one onto it, started the tool, pointed it at the USB Drive and it did the rest. The process took about 10-15 min. I then booted up with the Clevo and it went past the dreaded "CD/DVD Driver" screen...I was in like flint .

I didn't complete the install and took the USB drive (with the working 3.0 drivers) and reslipstreamed all of the Updates ect...(this takes about 1.5 Hours) with Ntlite into the package. I Booted up the Clevo/XMG again and she was off like a horse to the races...15 min later I had a completely updated Win7 Ultimate running on my machine. What a F'n relief.....Now I can start playing a bit. I've gone from a Toshiba Qosmio X505 with a GTX 460m to SLi GTX 970m's.....F### me runnin'...(as we used to say down in my neck of the woods) this thing is sooo fast (even though it's hobbled by the Bios).

Back to Business though, The other tool that was really handy was WUD or Windows Update Downloader
( http://www.windowsupdatesdownloader.com/ ) with this tool you can DL all Win7 updates and sort through them and then package them into a compressed file that is then read by Ntlite and then can be integrated into the install package.

If any one else has trouble installing Win 7, this works and is relatively pain free. It can take a couple of hours if you insert all the updates ect...

The steps are:
1: Copy an ISO image of Win7 to your USB Drive
2: Use Intel Creator Utility to insert USB 3.0 Drivers.
At this point you can install, it's fully functional...
3. Run the Windows Update Downloader and package the Updates.
4. Run NtLite, point to the Update Package from WUD to intergrate.
5. Push "Start" in NtLite and wait.

NtLite is pretty self explanitory, just follow the directions here:
https://www.raymond.cc/blog/create-an-integrated-up-to-date-windows-7-install-disc/


Hope this helps someone and saves a few frustrating hours...

Edit: I disabled UFEI in the bios and formatted the OS Drive as MBR.
Edit 2: The Driver disk that came from XMG/Clevo does work in Win 7, all the Drivers except the BlueTooth worked fine. When I put the Driver Disc in the Ext. Disk Drive the GUI did not want to install the drivers. It said there was an OS mismatch. I just opened the disk and installed them individualy and they worked fine.

 

as tempting as the 2400 MHz SODIMMs seem, that's the reason I went with the 64GB Samsung 2133 MHz SODIMMs, just for reliability and less headaches, even though I was really wanting to have 2400MHz + Speeds, since I live in Dubai, swapping such things and sending the system back isn't a very easy thing.

 

Great guide, I will try this, but tell me something, what chances did you make to your BIOS? did you have to disable UEFI boot in order for this to work? Did you initialize the disk as GPT or MBR?

 

Good question, one that I should have put in the post. I disabled the UFEI and I formatted the OS m.2 Drive with MBR. the rest I formatted GPT

 

BTW, on Sager's website, there is no Fingerprint Driver for Windows 7, only Windows 10, does the Windows 10 driver of the fingerprint reader work on Windows 7?

 

Yes it does. The Driver disk that I got from XMG had it on it. Infact all the Drivers execpt the BT worked fine. When I put the Driver Disc in the Ext. Disk Drive the GUI would not wotk to install the drivers. It said there was an OS mismatch. I just opened the disk and installed them individualy and they worked fine. I should have put this in the other post also...and will do so now. My Brain has gotten a bit mushy over the last 2 days messing with this thing.

 

Right now I am stuck on this unmounting image for 5 mins

 

So after giving up on the first attempt, I formatted the USB Stick and now I am stuck on the below stage...I am about to give up:

 

No luck, this thing will never finish the unmounting and committing install.wim image

 

It seems people are not listening, or not understanding. It's NOT the BIOS... at least not on the BIOS I started out with. And, it's not the modded BIOS I have now. It's the sticks are goofed up and no BIOS will fix that. It should have been carefully tested before it was shipped by the Clevo reseller.

The BIOS supports DDR4-2400 and it should automatically configure itself. The Sky X9 I have here came with three sets of memory for testing. Two sets of it works fine. EXCEPT FOR Kingston HyperX DDR4-2666 in the 8GB stick variety, and that memory (not the size or speed of the sticks, but the original Kingston SPD) seems to have an issue and fixing the BIOS (which Prema has) does not turn a silk purse into a sow's ear. If you have 8GB Kingston HyperX Impact DDR4-2400 I believe that is the source of your problem. The 4GB Kingston HyperX Impact DDR4-2400 are plug and play with the stock BIOS. I have the 16GB sticks of Micron DDR4-2133 and they run fine. I built a DDR4-2400 XMP profile for that memory and that works fine. If these came with your machine, have them send you Kingston HyperX DDR4-2400 in 4GB size or something else. How many sticks are you trying to use? If you bought them aftermarket from another source, get an RMA and buy different RAM instead instead of Kingston HyperX Impact DDR4 8GB sticks.

That's what what mine does with Kingston HyperX Impact DDR4 8GB sticks. Resetting NVRAM will not help if the BIOS cannot configure the memory to POST. What memory does yours have? Has it ever worked, or did you buy a machine without an OS and it was like that when you turned it on for the first time? I tried using those sticks again yesterday with the stock SPD on them and lost over two hours trying to get the machine to boot again. If works fine with the modded SPD, but the stock SPD is totally garbage.

I understand the Samsung 950 NVMe SSD have some issues and need a firmware update, but that's probably not the problem. To rule it out, remove that SSD from the equation (take it out) and try using a 2.5" HDD or SSD. If the problem is the same, it is not the 950 in this case.

 

I have 4 x 8GB Kingston DDR4 2400 and no problems so far. Should I be concerned?

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not until u have issues popping up

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Why didn't you just make a bootable Windows 7 installation usb and put a folder containing the usb drivers on the usb, then search for that folder when it says it doesn't have the drivers? (May require extracting an .exe file, must be an .inf driver to be recognized for this method).

NT lite is awesome for removing nasty components on the pay edition!

I apologize for starting that, either a reseller or someone mentioned that it originally supported 2400, then was cut down to 2133. It was assumed to be a bios update that injected the instability, not the ram timings. Thank you for the clarification!

EVERYONE LISTEN TO MR. FOX REGARDING THE MESSED UP TIMINGS OF THE RAM BEING THE ROOT OF THE PROBLEM!!!

 

So after extensive inspection and such of my machine, no damage or weird quirks. Seems I'm one of the lucky ones that didn't get any big problems... not even a dead pixel on the LG 1080p screen or RAM issues on any of the 4 ports along with 2400MHz RAM.

Guess once I'm not preparing for my many meetings and a family Vegas trip, I can properly set some time aside for doing tests...

 

CEG has a 980 SLI version on their shop called extreme edition. No price yet. So the question if 980 sli is possible is answered now ;-)

I wonder if it is a special version of the P870DM chassis or just a regular chassis with desktop 980 sli.

Here is the link: http://www.ceg-hardcorecustom.com/product/ceg-clevo-p870dm-extreme-edition

 

Sorry, was away for a couple of Hours. It takes about 15 or 20 min to mount the image.

I just let it do it's thing and eventually it was finished.