*** Official Clevo P870DM/Sager NP9870-G Owner's Lounge - Phoenix has arisen! ***

Yes I reboot into advanced mode to disable by pressing f7 then its boots up and is off. You don't have to turn it off after each time right?

 

Just to install...If you already did any cmd or reg trick just restore them and let advanced mode f7 take care of you.Sometimes good to be careful with notepad or use a more strict editor,you find sometimes whitespace or other invisible strokes can mess with things

 

Looks like I have to disable driver signing each time I reboot, I just did it again and tested the inf and it worked so I will do a clean install and report back success or failure.

 

If you rebooted after turning it off once, it'll be back on again.

Reboot with DSE off --> Reboot normally --> it's on
Reboot with DSE off --> Reboot with DSE off --> Reboot with DSE off --> repeat

That's the only way to keep it off.

 

You are exactly right, I wasn't aware it would switch back normally thanks.

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Once the driver is installed it should operate normally.

 

Lookl forward to your findings

 

Worry not, I had the same problem trying Mr. Fox's desktop driver mod with 344.75 back in the day.

I wish I knew how to hack the OS so that I could permanently disable it. I would use desktop drivers 24/7, and not need a reboot after installing drivers for SLI enabling (or in my case, editing registry to allow SLI on the fly).

 

You can permantly disable this as follows;

You can permanently disable driver signature enforcement by running these commands in an elevated command prompt:
bcdedit.exe -set loadoptions DISABLE_INTEGRITY_CHECKS
bcdedit.exe -set TESTSIGNING ON
Also make sure secure boot is off.

Many thanks to @DaveFromGameaVision

 

while it does help somewhat theres still something funky about that solution. i tried using that in order to implement a tweak before without permanent manual reboot, but it didnt pan out... now, if i could juuuuust remember the details on that.....hmmm

 

Yeah as Jaybee said I've heard of those things not working too right.

What I want is a flat registry edit (or something similar) that simply turns the feature off, without letting it turn on after restarts.

 

Has anyone else noticed that the screen is a little blurry on some games?

 

Yeah I noticed that in Just Cause 3. I just wrote it off as horrid optimization though.

Wrote a short post on how my eurocom experience went.
http://forum.notebookreview.com/threads/eurocom-sky-x9-experience.785632/#post-10163218

Not too bad considering some of the horror stories from sager but could have gone smoother.

 

I ordered this spacer for skylake:
http://aquacomputer.de/newsreader/items/spacer-fuer-skylake-cpus.html

With this spacer the heatsink can be mounted without the heatspreader. I didn´t repaste until now. To the ones who already took off the cpu heatsink: Will I need to get shorter screws or could there be a problem to get contact between the heatsink and die without the use of the heatspreader?

 

In the pic that looks awfully thin to be held by the stock 1151 CPU clamp/mount, the cpu is held by the mount on the motherboard which clamps to the IHS which has raised sections on each side so hopefully this is thicker than what it looks like. Let us know how it works out.

 

Has anyone discovered a Thunderbolt3/USB-C to Thunderbolt 2 cable or adapter in their online travels, by chance? I can't seem to find one and I'd really like to make my workstation docking a single-cable affair. I got an updated BIOS from Ken at GenTech, hoping to flash that soon and see if thermal throttling goes away.

Thanks in advance for any help you guys can provide in getting from TB3 to TB2 on this machine!

 

Anyone's read Eurocom's C.E.S 2016 press?
Did they make a typo ? or Did they give us a glimpse into their future ?

"Laptops with Intel Xeon processors will be there. Laptops with NVIDIA GeForce GTX 980 desktop graphis will be there. Laptops with up to 64 GB DDR4 of memory will be there. Mobile Servers will be there. Laptops with NVIDIA GeForce GTX 980 SLI will be there. Come and see what the future of computing holds for you!"

 

I didn't have to do anything to screws and such after removing IHS. Surprisingly compared to past CPUs, there isn't too much of a gap in between... and with my tests, I can safely say there shouldnt be any issues with contact.

 

The difference in height after removing the heatspreader and using the cpu heatsink without putting the heatspreader back on would be the thickness of the heatspreader itself, which is for skylake bigger than for haswell. I fear that this gap might be too big, especially when using CLU. Maybe a thicker layer with a conventional thermal paste will be necessary without further modifications of the socket/mainboard.
I will check and report my findings.

I allways hated the idea of putting the heatspreader back on after delidding, I am looking for a solution without having to use the heatspreader at all.

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just reread lonesyndal´s post right above yours, it looks to be functioning well without the heatspreader

 

If I understand correctly after reading your post a second time you are allready using a delidded skylake cpu without heatspreader in your Phoenix, right? Which termal paste are you using? How do you keep the cpu into place, are you also using a spacer?

 

For a video review from LinusTech about this laptop, visit:

 

Okay. Got my phoenix back today (or rather a replacement chassis using the same innards) and this is crazy but...I got my g.skill 2666MHz ram to work!!! All 64GB! I was nervous so I replaced the 4 stock 8GB modules and hard reset the laptop each time in succession until now (four times total) I don't know why the ram caused my now retired phoenix to wither and die upon first switch but it's nuts. Really nuts!!! Maybe my old phoenix had a bad motherboard or something but here I am typing on the new one with the ram I was fearing I'd have to return to Newegg. This is awesome. I know I'm repeating myself but I'm just perplexed that I had to got through all that headache and now the replacement laptop is 100% where I want it to be hardware-wise (well, until I get my 4K screen which is all over the place because of USPS and the Holiday surge). If it wasn't the ram that was the initial cause, the only other thing I can think of is the m.2 SSDs and the bios settings being the source of the issue formerly but I guess I'll never know since the old laptop was never fixed. But thanks to those who tried to help out before.

 

Hallelujah! My Phoenix has arrived. Just did a reinstall marathon with my EVO. Win 10 sucks.. Bastard OS...

Everything stock. Stock Clevo drivers. Anything I really have to do now? Except thinking except buying a Win 8.1 Key and throwing 10 away...


hmm..... http://www.3dmark.com/3dm/9854920?
or should the bunny be happy with result?

 

Alright. New issue to solve. I've installed my 2 samsung 950 pro SSDs in the laptop but windows doesn't seem to recognize them. I looked in the bios and it seems that they aren't present until I go to intel rapid storage and see them. I've raided them and unraided and yet when I boot back into windows I still get nothing. Neither disk management or Mini partion wizard can see them but I think I know why...

One of the 950 pros used to be the OS drive for my retired phoenix which might be the problem. Anyone know a way to format 950 pro SSDs in situations like this? When I had an issue like this before I simply used mini partion wizard to format and disk management to assign a new letter path but neither one seem to be able to detect them this time around. If you have a software solution, I don't mind, please, just point me in the right direction.

 

in an elevated command prompt, do this:

1- type: diskpart then hit Enter

2- Type list disk then hit Enter

3- You will now see the number next to the disk you are trying to install Windows on, if you followed the guide and only had one drive connected, then it would be Disk # 0

4- Type select disk 0 then hit Enter to make that disk the working disk which diskpart is going to perform its actions on

5- Type clean then hit Enter



6- Now that our disk is wiped and is neither initialized as an MBR Disk nor a GPT Disk, try to install Windows. If you boot off the USB Flash DISK in UEFI mode, then Windows will by default initialize the disk as a GPT disk which is the recommended method for installing Windows in UEFI mode. For Windows 7, you need to boot to the UEFI without the preceeding UEFI word which means you are booting it in legacy mode, that is for installing Windows 7

Also, always ensure you only have the disk you want to install Windows on while performing the setup otherwise Windows will place your boot files on the next disk it finds which will cause a lot of trouble and decreased performance. If you are installing them in RAID, then keep the two m.2 SSDs and remove the other HDD(s) until the installation is complete.

 

Thanks. I tried it up to the point that the SSDs don't show on diskpart either. I can only seem to see the SSDs when in the bios. This and disk manager can't seem to detect them at all, unfortunately.

 

wait a second bro, if you are trying to install them in RAID, then you need to copy the RAID driver (AKA Intel Rapid Storage Technology Floppy Driver x64) into the Windows 8/10 USB Flash Disk, once you are in the partition wizard, you won't see them, but then choose to load driver, then navigate to the IRST driver folder, then watch them magically appear

also, you need to create the RAID Array in BIOS before hand with preferably a stripe size of 16K as recommended by Intel for SSDs

 

I was raiding them together initially to test and see if the computer would recognize them afterwards outside bios but that didn't seem to work. At the moment I'm just trying to format the SSDs so they are usable again and then do a fresh install later (or I'll simply clone the OS onto one of the SSD later). If you happen to know a way to format them when disk management and mini partition wizard can't currently recognize them that'd really help me atm...

 

then you need to set the BIOS to RAID first, save and reboot then go back into BIOS setup, now go to Intel Rapid Storage Technology, then delete the RAID array that you created earlier,then change the BIOS mode to AHCI again and save/exit

Alternatively, if you still wanna proceed with the RAID setup, then juts load the RAID driver as I explained in the previous post.

 

Finally my ac-100 arrive after a long wait. Was able to push further but I need the @Prema magic to get me over this hump.

 

Tried it but it seems to make the PC not want to boot up after the switch to AHCI. It gives me the blue screen with the frowny face. :/

 

Y

You need to boot to the Windows USB flash disk not into Windows!!!

 

How are you able to go over +130mhz on the core?

 

Unlocked bios testing

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Oh....

I hope I can get this BIOS on my machines soon.

 

Sorry I meant unlocked vbios , I am in the same boat with the bios. Otherwise just testing.

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Wait, the unlocked vbios for g sync 980m is released?

Edit: Stupid me. Fixed it.

 

Always worth keeping an eye on premamod.com

 

So I am guessing from this image, the BIOS under the GTX9 MXM G-SYNC bios are confirmed to be working with 870dm-g? Or this is a separate internal "testing" BIOS.

 

its about the vbios / video bios / gpu firmware were talking about here, not about the system bios. dont mix those up.
looks like prema is working on a modded vbios and gtvevo is helping him test it on the phoenix

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Not the v2 vBIOS Mod that Fox is testing, but yeah there are a ZM/DM compatible GTX9xxM(-G) versions of the older v1.1.1 (just click my signature).

EDIT:

BTW, stay shy of 361.43...it seems to crash different systems. 359.06 works just fine

 

Is their version 2 any real improvement over their version 1.1.1 vbios?

 

Ha ha, I just figured out what was wrong which should have been obvious to me. I simply had to download the intel rapid storage drivers, restart the computer, and the 950 pro SSDs finally showed up in disk management (showed an initialization prompt upon load up). Thanks for your help, anyhow.

 

What would be a safe GPU (SLI) voltage for gaming? Is 1.15 volt allready too much?

 

Gaming on stock clocks prob around 1.0 volt with the 980m

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But if I want to game overclocked to maximum freuency? 1.10? Or does it compltely depend on the temps?

 

I see , each card will be different but if you stay at 1.1v or less you should be good with safe temps.

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That's what I told you but you missed it

 

It really depends on the temperature.