*** Official Clevo P870DM/Sager NP9870-G Owner's Lounge - Phoenix has arisen! ***

Found the screw underneath the subwoofer! Now I only need the right screw driver head
Now I'm left with an additional screw and I have no idea where it came from.

 

Better than missing a screw. Be careful with the kb magnet and screws.

 

Are you suggesting it's the screw for the kb? it is in its place so it's for something but I'll find it.I

 

I set all my cores to 45 and under volt to -60mV all stable lol. Only possible with CLU delid

Why is this chip so bloody over volted by it's makers?

 

Does anyone know how to get sound blaster x working on this laptop? It keeps saying that the audio device is not supported

 

Eurocom Sky X9: extreme gaming going on with i7-6700K and GTX 980

 

That was a nice read Still fighting the 980M SLI vs 980 in my head lmao
Whats the best stable overclock you got on them?

 

Yeah, I thought it was a good one, too. Glad you enjoyed reading it.

I don't remember. Would have to look through my old screen shots or search on Futuremark web site to be precise. Something around 1450/1450 on 980M SLI and 1525/2025 on GTX 980.

 

Thats nice

Ugh if only nvidia made SLI even 20% better this decision would be a no brainer. SLI support has been horrible this year and luckily I was a console gamer. Maybe I should take the dive and hope 2016 is when Nvidia has learned some things

 

I've been running a mild GPU overclock recently (+135/+350/+0.025, stock BIOS) and noticed that in not-so-demanding games one GPU is at its base core speed most of the time (load 30-50%) and boosts at 60%+ load, but the second is at boost core clock all the time, even at 20-30%. Its load is a bit higher, but not that much (~+5%). I guess it may be SLI-related but what is it exactly? Tried to search, the only thing I found is that at some overclocks single cards can really stay at boost clocks 24/7, but for me virtually any overclock gives that effect. Both cards have the same ASIC (69.3 and 69.4).
I'm using 361.43 driver.

 

Sounds like normal sucky stock NVIDIA firmware behavior. NVIDIA mobile GPUs never perform great with a stock vBIOS.

 

Even at stock they are pretty close to the inbuilt power wall.

 

If you want your GPUs to match in speed, setting them to "prefer maximum performance" via NCP will leave them at their base clock speeds minimum. The primary GPU usually downclocks while the second GPU keeps max clocks I've noticed in games where it isn't being taxed as much.

If your main GPU won't OVERCLOCK but your second GPU will overclock, even at max load, then that's a different problem entirely.

 

I enjoyed this reading. Finally something that caught my interest from test sites...

 

1,527Mhz Core; 8,000MHz Memory; 1.275V.
http://www.3dmark.com/3dm/10276658

 

A laptop tested by @Mr. Fox


VS a desktop tested by Guru3d


LOL... http://www.guru3d.com/articles_pages/nvidia_geforce_gtx_970_and_980_reference_review,21.html

 

@Mr. Fox now has Titan-Z reference Laptop without even using the TB3 port, which it also sports...

 

What in the world is 359.14 drivers O_O
You have a single 980 AND two 980Ms for that machine? Or is that still the review model?
Is this IN ADDITION TO boost clocks?
Is that game-stable for hours on end?
and finally
*drools*

 

Asuming the physics scores low due to Windows 10? It's a great achievement to see this and see the path of continued improvement.

That's also a great comparison to 980m sli since the question has came up so much.

[email protected]/Gpu@1527/GpuMem@8000 = 980sli stock clocks Gpu&Cpu



Sent from my LG-H901 using Tapatalk

 

Well said, 980m SLI is better

 

Thats the conclusion I've come to too...

 

Wow, it can be THIS bad? Well, I guess it's time to switch to Prema BIOS finally. I really want to play with OC settings, seeing what you and others have achieved, but I am afraid to brick the system. What are the risks of bad scenarios? I mean, if I take a corresponding BIOS file, follow description...

I have both at "prefer maximum performance", and they are at their OC clocks, though the master card behaves normally, between base+oc and boost+oc, and the slave is at boost+oc all the time (except at the maximum overclock allowed at stock BIOS cards start to power throttle and downclock 1172->about 1130-1150, this sucks but is expected)

 

Yes, I do. Er, did. Same machine... different GPUs. None of them belong to me. I'm just using it to help with ongoing testing. I sent the 980M cards back to Eurocom a few days ago.

That is boost clocks, not in addition to. But, the good thing is it runs in boost mode all of the time like I expect it to. So, anything between 2D low power mode and boost clock is irrelevant, just how I like it. I only care about three speeds: (1) turned off; (2) turned on/2D mode; and, (3) full blast.

I don't know if it is stable for hours on gaming, but I haven't played a game for hours in a long time... maybe before Christmas, something around that time. I suspect at such high clock speeds it would get a little too toasty for extended gaming sessions, but I don't know for sure.

 

Alright guys, so I think I am going to try and go for this setup.
Let me know what you think

 

Is that £3000? Have you looked at PCSpecialist in the UK. I got pretty much the same spec except 2 x 512GB SAMSUNG SM951 M.2, 1TB hybrid drive, INTEL® AC-8260 M.2 wireless, no extra PSU and HyperX IMPACT 2133MHz instead of Samsung. £2650ish

EDIT : Just built your system (as close as) at PCSpecialist and it comes to £2615. The ram is Kingston hyper X and the HDD is generic. M.2 is SM951 instead of SM950.

 

Nice! Did you already receive your replacement GPU?

 

Unless you're doing crazy things on your laptop,
halve the ram to 16gb,
upgrade windows to pro
And get the intel wireless if they have that option for an easy life,

Great spec otherwise, and cheaper from pcspecialist as mentioned above, and scan/3xs where I got mine from

 

I'm getting it a much better price due to the fact that I'll list it as a company asset and not get charged VAT. The guys over there gave me also a nice discount along with 24month warranty on parts,labour, shipping and service.

I looked at pc specialist but they seem to lack nice communication and reviews. (Not saying they aren't good, its just I haven't seen a lot of people reviewing them and giving them praise)

 

Is the killer software so bad? I tried comparing but the killer features seem better. Can you explain why the switch?

Also, I replied above as to why I went with mysn

 

Unfortunately, while great for benchmarks, it's not so great for gaming anymore. I'll still take SLI over none, but it saddens me greatly, and single-GPU is a smart choice for many gamers with this machine. Note I said GAMERS and not BENCHMARKERS; there is a large difference there.

intel 8260ac over anything killer wireless any day of the week.
You might want to see if they offer 2400MHz CL14 RAM.
You don't seem to have a converter box for dual-PSU applications; simply a second PSU... is this intentional?
Windows 10 Home in my eyes is cancer for 90% of PC users, even a majority of the more technically inept ones, and you should get Pro.

Makes sense. Did you buy your own yet? I know you're going to at some point hehe.

So Prema has matched base and boost clocks like the 780Ms work? I honestly prefer it that way. Also, how did you manage to make it do that with your 2D mode and boost? I would rather four stages personally: (1) Off, (2) on/2D mode, (3) on/middle-of-the-road (on 780Ms, this would be the ~450MHz clock; useful for some battery usage without overpulling things) and (4) on/full blast. I don't care for the multiple clockspeeds inbetween midrange and full speed. Did you manage to do this without Precision X and its Kboost feature?

For me, stable for long periods is the best kind of overclock. Benchmarks are great and all, but if I can't use all that power 24/7 at my disposal however I should please, it's only got limited usage. It's one of the reasons I don't 24/7 overclock my GPUs; the wildly varying temp in my house and the fact that they seem somewhat liable to crash off-and-on (likely due to something else on the card generating heat) is a little random for me, though I've seen many users manage stable 24/7 maxwell OCs that I know I could handle, especially with THOSE cooling systems.

 

@D2 Ultima

Holy **** I didn't even notice the home version myself :O Thank you for that.

Also, I have uploaded the revised final specs. Can anyone tell me what is going on with the distaste towards killer?

P.S The converter box just wasn't visible

 

None of the power states or clocks are changed in the Mods.
It's all stock with working Turbo etc. You just overclock the Turbo and that's it.
No magic, just working as it already should do from factory without throttle in BIOS, vBIOS, ME & EC.

 

By default, the Killer Suite Network Manager and Priority Filter software isn't automatically configured - it doesn't test your upload/download speeds.

This leads to unpredictable behavior under some conditions which can cause lag in games or video.

All you need to do is to fill in the upload/download speeds through Network Manager, and select from 2 priority options - Best throughput (normal use), or Lowest response time (gaming, video(?)).


Killer should have put in some kind of innocuous default speed - or maybe they did and picked a bad set of values, or disabled priority filtering until the user entered in values.

Other router tools like this support a website(s) of their own to test against, or use other services to automatically determine the current upload/download speed at every power on. IDK why Killer didn't.

You can also run the Killer Suite installer a 2nd time, and deselect the Network Manager and Priority filter driver, and after rebooting run with "drivers only".

Note that Killer also offers a "Drivers only" installer, but they haven't kept it up to date, it is for a much down rev package from August 2015.

So, that's why Killer is getting bad press for their software, it's users not paying attention to the setup / configuration, and Killer not realizing that is the default result 99% of the time

 

I only got a P751, but that shouldn't make a difference.
I got to the state where just installing drivers for the killer wifi would bsod on clean win7, win8 and win 10 installations. I used both up to date drivers from Killer and mysn to test.
During win 7 to win 10 upgrade it would always crash during driver installation.
Once I took the killer card out the upgrade worked without a hitch.
Mysn let me "downgrade" to Intel 8xxx AC, works like a charm now.

(Hell, even the employee said that the killer wifis commonly run into issues)

When I bought my laptop I thought more expensive == better but boy as I wrong.

 

Damn, I see. Well then, killer changed to intel, done

 

That's just one of many experiences, u should always listen to both sides of the coin first

@hmscott
I'd wager it's more hardware issues than software ones that's getting killer wifi bad press.

 

Well do you have any bad experiences with mysn then?

 

Everything great, their RMA service is first class.
They only like to discourage removing the heat sink on your own, but it's just something like a safety call for inexperienced customers I think. A company representative here said something along the lines of: As long as u don't create dmg by wrong handling, it's all fine.

 

Great, this reassures me for choosing to go with them and their service quality

 

That's too bad, it could have been a bad card though, sorry you beat your head against it for so long.

It sounds like a hardware problem with that specific card to cause BSOD's so consistantly against all those variations in configuration.

That's the key right there, "Killer Wifi's commonly run into issues"

Besides the filter priority, many older routers have problems with new wifi cards.

Intel had this problem too, when they issued the 726x series with strict protocol adherence, and it took over a year to loosen things up and release drivers that were more compatible with older chipsets used in routers.

As it turns out all Wifi cards can have these compatibility issues, but Killer added in the unpredictable behavior of their namesake software when it goes unconfigured.

@marios50 The Intel 8260 so far isn't getting a lot of complaints, so it sounds like a safe choice.

You can always upgrade the Wifi card to the new hotness later

 

Prema, I don't believe you. Your magic is making this possible. Don't tell me there's no magic involved D=

If you can afford another 250GB SSD for your OS and use a 512GB for your games, you may find yourself having a good time (assuming you play many games).
Otherwise, I've nothing to add or remove from your system besides the RAM I mentioned.

As for the killer, there's a LOT of issues, especially related to its software suite. I've seen windows coming to a crawl conflicting with GPU drivers, I've seen lots of issues with wifi connectivity (which might be fixed with setting it up, but makes no sense if one person tries it on network A and it works and network B it doesn't work) and various other problems. It's not that it is GUARANTEED to work bad, but it has a high enough chance of giving you headache for months that I tell people to avoid it. Killer wants me to recommend them, let Killer update their drivers and make them better. Not my fault.

 

In your case I can see why you would think that

Killer Wireless-AC 1535 Review: The MU-MIMO Era Begins
http://www.pcper.com/reviews/Networ...IMO-Era-Begins/Killer-Software-and-Conclusion

Whenever I get a new Wifi card in a high end laptop, and it's got new protocol support, I try to upgrade to a new router at the same time or soon thereafter.

So for me, it might be that I am avoiding all the problems by staying in sync with the new technology supporting the new features.

But, then again, I run a number of older routers too, and so far the 1525/1535 haven't given me any trouble since the drivers stabilized on Windows 8.1.

As they say, YMMV...

 

You mean a third drive and none in raid right?
Won't the 950 pro do for both os and games?

 

What Prema said...

It works the way I want it to work when I choose the right settings, meaning, the GPU immediately boosts to full-bore 3D turbo clocks and stays there instead of the dynamic nonsense. I disable adaptive power management mode in Windows and NVCP because I despise that. If I set NVCP to adaptive performance mode it acts spastic and changes clock speeds based on load the way the nvidiots intended. I prefer that my CPU and GPU clock speeds function like a manual transmission and run forever in whatever gear I feel like selecting. If I want 4.5GHz, it boots and run 4.5GHz until I decide to change it. If I want 4.7GHz, I either change the BIOS or use ThrottleStop to select a different profile and it stays at that clock speed forever, or until I manually change it, regardless of load demand. I do not allow any kind of power management or clocking down to lower speeds in the absence of load demand.

In fact, that's one thing I have never liked about the Panther. There is no way to force it to run full blast 24/7 the way I want it to. The CPU always slows down to 1.2GHz at idle.

 

Yes I mean a third drive. And no, you would likely find it a great benefit to have a separate games-only SSD. It has come in handy MANY times in the past, especially with OS reinstalls or anything to do with warranty.

Edit: Note, I would suggest installing the OS on a 250GB or 256GB drive. Games go on a 500GB.

 

Yeah that makes sense. Should I keep the 950 for the games then and choose a lower cost SSD for OS?
What do you think I should choose?

 

I would suggest the fastest booter for your OS/programs. Games are often RAM-bound and connection-bound, and while a SSD will be a great help for quite a few games, they do not really need the fastest of SSDs. However if getting a cheaper one, I suggest the 850 EVO at least. Otherwise you want a MLC NAND SSD. I don't consider TLC NAND excepting the 850 EVO drives.

 

So the 950 for OS/Programs, 850 evo for games, 2tb for storage?
Something like that?

 

Exactly like that.

 

Then I don't particularly need the 512GB 950 just for OS, should I downgrade it to 256? And maybe install a couple of games too if needed?