*** Official Clevo P870DM/Sager NP9870-G Owner's Lounge - Phoenix has arisen! ***

Question about the Synaptics Touchpad on the Clevo...

Is it a IC2 or a PS/2-SMbus device?

Trying to figure out which drivers to use here: http://www.synaptics.com/resources

I am still having Touchpad issues after reinstalling the latest Clevo-based drivers (v19.0.24.1), so now I'm going to try using the generic universal drivers on their website (v19.0.19.1).

As I mentioned a couple pages back, the Touchpad keeps disabling as soon as I log into Windows, with or without a USB mouse plugged in and no matter if I toggle the "Enable/Disable when a USB device is plugged in" settings in the Synaptics control panel, they won't re-enable inside windows unless I do a driver resintall. And it's getting kinda annoying to have to reinstall the driver every couple days to re-enable the touchpad.

It works fine on the login screen. It just decides to disable itself right after I login and won't enable again no matter what I do. Plugging and Unplugging a mouse doesn't work either. (The mouse is using the basic HID-USB driver for Windows 10 and works fine regardless if the Touchpad is working or not.)

So, anyway, just trying to figure out the right drivers from Synaptics official website. IC2 or a PS/2-SMbus device?

Thanks.

 

What version of the Control Center do you have installed? try the latest one in my drivers mirror:

Clevo P870DM/DM-G Drivers Mirror

 

That's the one I am using.

 

Strange, I have a feeling it's not a driver issue as it's the control center that usually controls the disabling/enabling of the Touchpad, Can you please try an older Control Center version? the x.32 one for example?

 

The 6700k I got to play with in a desktop did 4.7ghz gaming stable on air (big cooler) with a variety of games. It comes down to the silicon, power delivery and cooling.

 

Yes, that is 100% true. I was not speaking strictly of the 6700K. The machines I have with 2920XM, 3920XM, 4930MX, 4930K and 4960X experience the same kind of nonsense with games that are poorly coded. As @Papusan mentioned, the same can be true of GPU overclocking. Many games just do not behave well with CPU or GPU overclocking, while others are happy to run as fast as you ask them to. Some are good to a point with moderate overclocking. Not very many like extreme overclocking like we do for benching. Frequently, it is only the game itself that crashes rather than Windows becoming unstable.

 

That due to the different kinds of functions each game uses and which ser of transistors is weakest in your chip. If a game hammers a certain instruction that set of transistors does then it's more likely to show issues.

 

Some games will even crash with LCD refresh rate overclocked. I've had a couple of games that refuse to function unless the default display refresh rate is set.

 

That's a different matter though, that is poor coding.

 

Im either the dumbest man around here or this machine doesnt even take 4.2 without overheating.. Hopefully @Mr. Fox can find a way to help me figure this crap out :/

And im inclined to believe the first statement.

 

@Phoenix had a similar experience. If you're running the stock thermal paste, it may not be adequate. How hot is it where you are using the laptop?

 

@Mr. Fox Im in Jersey its cold here and I have my ceiling fan on... cpu temp is 40 just doing basic stuff..

 

4.2 WILL generate more heat than 4.0. Even if you have the best sillicon, it will be warmer, even if its just a tiny bit more.

At 4.2 I run mine in 90% of the tasks with a negligible increase in temperatures, but that after I found the right numbers after while of trials and errors and the help of people here. Even so, it was warmer, but just a bit, to be negligible. To 4.3, it got around 7C hotter (playing games with the CPU around high 60C low 70C) but that is without delid and without CLU, on my high ambient temps without AC.

I bet that stress tests like prime 95 will get my temps around 90C. I still have to check. But this week I'm having time on my computer only to work, so far...

 

This is actually a good temp for idle =)
At what clocks and voltages?

 

Stock

 

Seems he has one of those unlucky overclockers like me. But even a bad one can do 4.2 ghz on all cores provided one decreases the voltage by -144 to -150mV on both the core and cache ratio while increasing the turbo power max to 130A along with a 200,000 watt IA current limit (whatever that value translates to in XTU

 

Stock voltage is way too high temps will soar sky high when stressed

 

im not using XTU but straight Bios.. Fox suggested the Turbo max 200,000 and it overheated like a hot potato

 

Went down to 95,000 but the scores in cinebench dropped dramatically....

Brown one was when i had turbo max at 200,000 but everything else was stock

 

That means it's drawing more power; it needs more power to run stable. Set that back to 200,000 and then also undervolt as @Mr. Fox and @Phoenix suggested.

You need to have *all* the recommended settings, it's a self-supporting group of system settings, to get the desired result.

 

Im going by what @Mr.Fox is telling me as Im new to this

 

Thats not without the -144 to -150mv on both CPU and ring.

As everyone, stock, this thing runs HOT.

For a start, you should try to maintain stock clocks and only decrease voltages by -144 Adaptive on both CPU and the ring.

Check for stability after that and see how it is behaving for a time. Try some encoding and check the speed and so forth.

Then, after a couple days start increasing clocks and don't change nothing else. Try 4.1, then 4 2. After a week 4.3...

 

I am sure @Mr. Fox told you the same thing, use the settings as a group - leaving out a supporting setting breaks the whole.

 

I have given you all the settings before and screenshots of every BIOS page. Follow them and you should be fine

http://forum.notebookreview.com/thr...enix-has-arisen.781814/page-370#post-10194537

 

only those 2?

 

I did those and encoding dropped from stock 32fps to 17fps.. so something is not right,

 

means voltage was not enough, try -130mV for both

 

You mean using the method with the Bios screenies you showed me?

 

I'm in Jersey too! Woo! LAN party time!

 

Where in Jersey. Im willing to buy the darn 4.8 delided and the liquid ultra paste and send everything to you so you can do that for me as i cant do it myself :/

 

This is with only CPU and Ring Voltage set at -150 and turbo max set to 95,000

 

should I try with 200,000?

 

Yes. Those two. And the power settings @Mr. Fox and @Phoenix told you.

You are at stock speeds, you should be running this now with equivalent performance of a stock 6700k. But much cooler now.

It is happening like that? If it is, it is right.

 

hmmmm im not running it at stock speed... I increased the power settings to 95,000 and changed the voltage in CPU and Ring to -150V as told

 

This stock speed.
What isn't stock is voltage and power settings.

So you're running with stock speed but with lower power consunption, which shoukd give you same performance with lower temperatures.

Confirm?

 

I'm confused then when you are referring to stock speed.. Can you clarify?

 

Hi there.

I ordered my laptop from Mythlogic - how long did it take you guys to receive the laptop? This question is for those who ordered from Mythlogic.

Thanks

 

"Speed" is the CPU multiplier. If you don't changed that (as I recommended for the first step) it should be stock.

Voltages and power settings don't change its speed, but its power draw.

Imagine it is a car.

To tune the engine to run with higher horsepower, you must feed it more fuel. But it will also run hotter as its burning more fuel.
The voltages are the fuel. The clocks are like the RPM. If you can make the engine run with the same RPM and power with less fuel, it will be more efficient and runs cooler. after you achieve that, you take on that newfound efficiency and start increasing power.

Got it better?

 

19 days with a 3 days delivery

 

When i got the laptop it was at 40 i changed all cores to 42.. so I changed the speed its not stock

 

I don't use offsets, I set static voltage, but I also leave mine at 47x4 all the time with cache ratio at 45 min/max and c-states disabled. Basically the CPU is clocked at 4.7GHz and the cache at 4.5GHz 24/7, even when it is idle.

Before you dismiss the CPU as being a dud, repaste with Liquid Ultra, make sure when you are benching the fans are running full blast (don't need them to for ordinary stuff) and be sure the laptop can breathe. The ideal cooling would include a delid, but I know not everyone is down with that. The back end needs to be propped up or have it on a cooler to ensure adequate circulation and unimpeded air intake. If you have it sitting on a flat surface the airflow is restricted.

If it still doesn't perform well, is not stable and overheats after the above steps are taken, then you can say you played the silicon lottery and lost. Delidding voids the warranty on the CPU, so only do that if all the other measures produce good results. If you can run Cinebench without a thermal shutdown or crashing at 4.5 to 4.7GHz, you have a good CPU that needs to be delidded.

 

I'm in South Jersey 15 minutes outside Philadelphia. I just can't believe all this heat and voltage talk. Maybe I am a rare case, but here is a screen from a bench Myth did on my machine I'm getting back this week. This is a final Fantasy benchmark with the throttle stop cpu bench running at the same time. No delid and 45 on all cores. Temps peaked high 80s.

Edit: notice this is a stock voltage even!




Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

Hahahahahaha i set it up just like @Firebat246 has it there and got the biggest BSOD of all times... Dangit :/

 

Well, I just uninstalled the Clevo Control Center and restarted.

The touchpad is now working properly - it enables without a mouse plugged in and disables with a mouse plugged in.

I haven't installed the Control Center yet. Wondering if I should even bother with it?

The keypad and LED on the back of the cover are still the same as I set them previously. I haven't done anything else with the CC. Maybe I should just leave it uninstalled?

I don't OC, so I don't think I'm missing anything?

 

Can anyone recommend a good cooling pad for this beast of a laptop? This is what I'm looking at, but I don't think the stop bar that folds out above the control panel is tall enough to keep this laptop from sliding off. I'm having a hard time finding a nice one with blue LEDs, good cooling, high height adjustment bar (I want to raise it up pretty high, so I'm not looking down constantly during long gaming sessions and getting neck pain from it). Don't worry about me being able to type on it. When I'm at home, I'll be using a full sized keyboard. Thinking about getting the Logitech G910, but with the optional keycaps they offer on their site.

 

Anything that lifts the back up and lets it breathe easily will do.

 

Not if the sheer weight of the thing breaks the plastic stop bar, or if the bar isn't even high enough to begin with.

 

That would fail to lift it up properly yes, so again, anything that lifts up the back and lets it breathe easily

 

Pretty vague

 

Have a look at my post starting with this one here and the following posts by me and @Papusan for more info.