*** Official Clevo P870DM2/P870DM3 (Sager NP9873/NP9872) Owner's Lounge! - The Phoenix 2 is here! **

1. Rockit 88? Do I need a relid kit?
2. Does the Rockit kit come w/ cleaning supplies after delid? Probably not.
3. CLU or Pro? CLU
4. What type of paste for GPU? Anything else I should do for GPU cooling? Thermal pads (no experience with these)? CLU, Icd, Gelid Extreme or grizzly Kryonaut. Pads http://forum.notebookreview.com/threads/official-clevo-p870dm2-p870dm3-sager-np9873-np9872-owners-lounge-the-phoenix-2-is-here.794530/page-395#post-10343186

 

I just ripped it with my hands. You can use scissors if you want the cuts to be neat.

 

Sweet. Time to get out the chainsaw!!!!

 

So that did help bring the temps down another 4-5 degrees. Wasn't too bad. I used a box opener and some pliers. I may take it off and trim back the last bit for the fan.

Original:
https://1drv.ms/i/s!Apy2cyQbjIykkKQ-ogBn8fj8oBEpBA
Modified:
https://1drv.ms/i/s!Apy2cyQbjIykkKRDjFJW-n6HhnY6Ig

 

It was the same on the dm3, just get rid of all of it.

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Outstanding! Now just peel off the rest like @GTVEVO suggested.

 

So is the general consensus that CLLU is safe on between the CPU and heatsink but not recommended for the GPU?

Any extra steps for safety? Dellidding has been completed though with CLLU!

Also, the keyboard is really mediocre as everyone has been saying. I miss the feeling of my MSI GT70, but I don't miss the lack of power.

 

Ah I wasn't aware that the rest of it was restrictive as well? I guess I'll have to remove the rest then soon.


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My hidevolution P870DM2 came with all the covers removed except for one of the small vents at the front. So it seems to be standard practice for some resellers.

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So I have some unfortunate news...

It appears my 1080 has some heavy coil whine under any gaming load. Regular use like web browsing and watching videos have no audible effect, however. Anyone else notice this? I can pick it up under full fan load.

Are they any ways to negate this, or do I have to RMA? D:

 

Since you will have @Prema vBIOS once it is available, here are a couple of EVGA Precision X 16 skins you can use.


Alienkiller - Powered by PremaMod Skin | Download from Mr. Fox

Alienkiller II - Powered by PremaMod Skin | Download from Mr. Fox

Alienkiller II EVOC - Powered by PremaMod Skin | Download from Mr. Fox






@Ted@HIDevolution @Donald@HIDevolution @thattechgirl_viv

 

Bah, my Windows activation key still hasn't arrived. That's what I get for being stingy with the cheapest of all components. Well, at least my Gelid Extreme is already underway, so I should be able to repaste tomorrow.

 

Hasn't anyone got their 3k screen yet?

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my EVOC P870DM3 is still in pre-production as I was late to the party when ordering

 

Interesting. Been doing a quick Furmark stress run in standard settings, and the framerate keeps pulsating between 120 and 40 fps, despite the GPU never hitting even 60°. Likewise, even some low-req games such as Serious Sam BFE have the same issue. Might be a whole different bottleneck somewhere in there.

 

I've got mine but still loading work stuff on it.

Question though, I can't get the GPU fans to adjust on the custom profile. The only thing that will make the GPU fans move is the overclock profile or the maximum profile. Is there a way to set a fan curve or adjust the GPU fans to move?

 

Not having that issue myself. It's humming along just fine. You are using the High Performance power profile when you game correct?

 

Viewing angles and colors, how are they? Light bleed, any?
Thanks a million!

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So I can go into Clevo's GPU overclock utility and specify a manual offset for fan if I turn on overclocking. I can dial in the noise where I want it. Then when I hit a game the fans go balls to the wall on max it seems. No middle ground.....

 

Yup. I guess I'll find out tomorrow when I crack that nut open and grease the wheels.

 

Colors are decent but I don't have the equip to color calibrate. Haven't looked at viewing angles yet as I'm always dead on center. There is some light bleed at the bottom but I'm not susceptible to that as much as some are.

 

Is light bleed usually the panels fault or the bezels?

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When you have time could you please check the viewing angles? And maybe also the panels Info make/model so I can try and find out more Info about it. Really appreciate it. Thanks.

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Right now I'm trying to figure out the fans. Not sure how to check the rest. Admittedly I have to get back to work soon so I probably won't have much more information for you today.

 

Mine will be in Weds, I will share details.

 

Nope. Still in production phase. Maybe it will ship on Monday.

I wanted that screen, but supplies are limited and there were too many people in line ahead of me with a pending order. I did not want to wait until Thanksgiving holiday or some other unknown period of time for a P870DM3... tired of waiting. 1080p 120Hz will do fine until the 1440p 120Hz is available for an aftermarket upgrade.

NVIDIA has some built in protection to keep you from killing your GPU, but sometimes that is not enough. Don't do Furmark stress testing. You may end up with a $1200 GPU as a paperweight. As far as the behavior, have you opened NVIDIA Control Panel, gone to the Global Settings tab and set the Power Management to Maximum Performance? If not, do that first. Make sure the Windows Power Management profile is on High Performance as well. Both of those changes are critical or your machine will run like feces to save power.

 

90c gpu temps while running Unigine Valley seems unusually high. Were you doing consecutive runs? When the gpu reached 90c were the fans running at maximum. As a comparison, I just ran the Unigine Valley benchmark with the automatic fan mode. The gpu temp only reached 72c and the max fan speed 2300 rpm, so medium strength (max rpm is about 4300). I think you may need to repaste your gpu, my 1080 never goes about 80c while playing witcher 3 (ultra settings, 1080p) for many hours with the automatic fan setting. Good luck!

 

Everythunk is maxed. I'm not that surprised that DOOM is throttling, but lesser stuff be weird.

 

In my post I mentioned the Fans were on automatic which in my case means they weren't really spinning fast (not sure of a way to monitor speed). When I use the overclock fan profile the fan goes to 100% pretty quickly. The GPUs seem to settle on 75c after about 20 or so minutes of running it.

I've re pasted with Noctua and more recently IC Diamond. I was trying to find a way to have the fans in a middle setting but so far no luck.

When gaming I generally sit in the mid 60s with the fans on overclock.


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Doom isn't that demanding.
I can get this playable 60fps on 4k on a 1070

 

DOOM runs at 140+, that's not the issue. The stutter is. It drops to 30 every few seconds.

Also, I got impatient and opened 'er up to have a careful peek inside. Is it just me, or is the standard single-1080 cooling solution severely disappointing? There are two fans for the GPUs. The heatsink is attached to only one, which is a complete waste.

 

I had a similar, but not consistent issue with Rise of the Tomb Raider. Sharp spike all the way to 8fps but jumped to above 100fps quickly. Eventually my laptop shut down instantly. After retesting it I have not seen the spikes again, but I do have quite the coil whine. I'm debatting an RMA because who knows how long that will take to get taken care of.

 

Isn't the single 1080 heatsink the T heatsink that has fins at both fans?

 

Coil whine sucks, as I have heard a lot throughout the years. Some companies are better at accepting an RMA for coil whine than others. Unfortunately, if you do RMA your DTR, it could be weeks before you get yours fixed. The popularity and demand for the DM2/DM3 is very high.

EDIT: Since you are still within your 30 days return period, you can always return it for a full refund and elect to buy it elsewhere. Although, you will likely run into the aforementioned demand issue.

 

Not in my model. The left GPU fan is completely disconnected from the cooling system. Seems to be the case in all European models. This is apparently the same heatsink used for the 1070 SLI model, and it really doesn't cut the mustard on a 1080. I'm gonna call Nexøc tomorrow and see if they have the T-shaped heat sink in store, and are potentially willing to send me one. Otherwise I might have to import from overseas.

Look, this is what the heatsink looks like; only just a single one instead of two. Again, not enough by any means.

 

Just found this:

http://www.gskill.com/en/press/view...200mhz-so-dimm-kit-on-intel-skull-canyon-nuc-

G.Skill rip jaws SO-DIMM 3200MHz RAM modules passed approval. Does this mean we'll be able to order these soon (soon being within the next 3-6 months)?

 

I'm pretty sure they build in the wrong one! Either it has to be the vapor chamber one or the T-shaped one. I would request a free replacement for that!

 

I just phoned the manufacturer. They'll probably send me one.

Update: Just got my Gelid Extreme in the mail. I'll wait for the new heatsink before I repaste, though.

 

I would advise not to do furmark test let alone announce it on the forums. Some manufactures consider this to void the warranty in case your GPU gets fried doing it (or at least it used to be the case few years back), so be careful.

 

I am having a problem with my machine and am wondering if anyone has experienced anything similar.

NVIDIA control panel is saying that I don't have any NVIDIA graphics cards attached to the display and there are a lot of random green pixels. I tried a clean install of NVIDIA drivers and then a repaste/make sure the cards' power connection/PCI-e connections aren't loose. Everything seems fine, but the problem still persists. GPU-Z recognizes two 1080's but none of the sensors register. I can't get any sensor readings from HWINFO64 or HWMonitor either.

Here are some pictures:
http://imgur.com/a/59z2r

 

You should return it, your GPUs are likely faulty.

 

I was afraid of that. You are probably right though.


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Good evening dm3 owners
I have to replace some thermal pads on Gpu and the one on cpu, somebody know which one is good for it?

 

I think there's a link some pages back.

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I used thermal grizzly pads on mine, any reasonable quality ones should work. Thickness and fit are far more important.

 

Pads with 7w/mk and upwards are good to go. Phobya XT (7w/mk) or FujiPoly Extreme Plus (14w/mk).

 

How thick?

 

That's interesting. Does that mean the reseller shipped yours out knowing they installed the wrong heatsink. I'd be fuming if I were in your shoes.

That strange. Has it always been this way and you just noticed it or did the issue appear out of nowhere? Donald at HIDevolution told me they do extensive testing on their machines before they are shipped out to customers.

 

0.5mm and 1.0mm thermal pads according to what Meaker posted earlier in this thread.

 

Just happened to me today. It worked fine for more than 2 weeks.


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