*** Official Clevo P870DM2/P870DM3 (Sager NP9873/NP9872) Owner's Lounge! - The Phoenix 2 is here! **

As is what is going on. Read the previous post.

 

Exactly! Now we agree on something.

 

Needs more Hz but after 120Hz I have to admit it does become hard to tell the difference.

 

Yes new times from Dellienware. From the new BGA systems Maybe the new AW models should be paint in Blue? So everything is in harmony!!

 

I'm going to give @Papusan an AW for his bday, hehehehe.

 

Nice.. 2 cores turboing to 3.5 ghz the other 2 @ 3.3ghz... temps still going over 100 and a BSOD to boot. Potato melting performance.

 

Thank you for your kindness, but no thanks. Do you want me sick and depressed?

I hope you understand my NO thanks

 

It did look pretty good in the store though, but then so did he curved screen they had for the same price.

 

Wow, this question really got derailed

 

Do you have a link? I only see 100 mhz and the 116 people on here say the same thing. I must have the wrong model number or something?

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16824009869

Edit:

Nevermind, I found it.
http://120hzmonitors.com/monitor-list-120hz-144hz-165hz-200hz-240hz/

 

Official specs are 144hz but Acer advertises as overclockable to 200 hz...

Predator Z1
Model Name: Z301C
Part Number: UM.CZ1AA.001

 

Beyond a point the other aspects of the panel el are more important to me then like quality of stand etc.

 

I was only talking about the picture quality.

 

For those suffering from windows 10 spying on you, here is another alternative: http://pxc-coding.com/portfolio/donotspy10/ (DonotSpy10) - I use this my self and it's great! No more **** going on your background without your approval.

As for re-sellers I have my eyes on HID for my upcoming purchase, thats when clevo releases a model with a better keyboard, from what I gathered its under work

And for that 3k 5ms screens, can we have more reviews floating around?

 

Stop the press!! Any news, links, tidbits you can publicly share?

 

Or a 6820HK pegged @ 4.3ghz on all four cores not even topping 70c.



Oh and dang whats the 1070 BGA Alienware doing with those numbers.

 

That's a damn special wPrime score time for only 4.3ghz

 

Hah I am just blabbering.. I am a speculator.. Thats what I do for living. And gathering from how many complaints regarding the keyboards are out there, including a bunch from me, pretty sure it created a giant buzz in clevo's ears.. Although I did have an unnamed chat with a clevo reseller representative regarding it, and he did say it would be done on the models after Kabylake refresh on the P870DM3. So I am assuming once the x299 chipset is out along with 112W quadcore kabylake-X (higher clock speeds w/o integrated trash gpu ) from Intel around 2H 2017. We should see Clevo finally deliver us a stunningly strong system that most of us desire. And to put cherry on top, around that same time Pascal Refresh is to be expected. So take all of this with a grain of salt. everything is a giant speculation at this point, but none of this is unrealistic.

 

I have an important question:

Is the nickel-plated copper installed on the GTX 1080?
So I could use a metallic heat paste?
Grizzly Conductonaut must not hit aluminum.
So could I apply it on the GPU?

With me yesterday the temperatures when playing climbed up to 81 degrees Celsius. I thought that was unpleasant.
So far, I've used Master Gel Maker. ICD is also not good enough.
Alternative would still be Liquid Ultra.
Liquid Ultra is also a metallic paste and it would be just as incompatible with aluminum.

Again the question:

Can I use the Geforce 1080 Grizzly Conductonaut?

 

First, 81 Celsius is a very good temperature...nothing to be concerned about.

We stopped offering Coollaboratory Liquid Ultra (CLU) or Conductonaut on the GPU because we had a few GPU's overheating after some time. Not only that, but the CLU would become runny (like water) and run down to the resistors causing them to fall right off. This is not covered under the manufacturer's warranty if it happens.

We could apply it, but we would be responsible for the GPU overheating (more than usual) or just not working after some time, and we are not willing to take that risk, nor do we recommend that anyone should do it.

 

Hmm, i think you guys need to get some Pressure sensitive film and only apply CLU to systems where the heatsinks make perfect / flat contact with the GPU/GPU's.
If that doesn't happen then one of the GPU's will surely have a gap and cause the runny CLU'ness. :S
Normally to avoid this copper shims can be added, but that is entirely different can of worms.

I can bring over my P870DM-G over to the office, if you guys wanna see how i have done it. In the past.

 

We know there are methods that will help prevent leakage, but if we do it, we have to warranty it, and from our experience with multiple machines, we are just not willing to do that.

If a user wants to take the risk on a single unit that is up to them, but we would have to do it for hundreds, or even thousands of them, and it just doesn't make good sense for us. Regardless of the methods used, there would be a percentage of failure.

We do rebuild the thermal solution differently from what Clevo provides, and we are getting temps in the 70's and low 80's, which seems to be quite adequate.

.

 

Temps with my modded NotePal U3+ on RotTR with everything maxed at 4K except using FXAA:

Spoiler: Temps

CPU not shown, but maxed at 77C. Typical GPU at max fans with no cooler maxes out I think around 80-85C average with some very rare bumps closer to 90.

Spoiler: Setup

• Modded NotePal U3+ with 3x Noctua iPPC 3000 fans
• Max fans
• Foil removed over second GPU fan
• CLU on CPU/GPU (don't do CLU on the GPU unless you know exactly what you're doing and how to prevent spillage)

The incredible thing is that most of the air that makes it into the laptop isn't even coming out the rear vents, it's being vented back out through the bottom cover through the sides and out the speaker holes. The massive exposed copper area on the grid heatsink seems to make a modded cooler with proper fans (not that 5V garbage that comes with it) incredibly effective at dumping heat in conjunction with what the built-in fans are already doing, especially since it doesn't just end up pushing a tiny bit more air out through the fins. I haven't even cut holes in the mounting plate, so there's still a ton of room for improvement.

 

Hello Bro,
I'm interested.
Could you show photos of your copper plates that you have applied.
A photo you have already posted - I think.
Have you exchanged the thermal pads with the copper plates?
Then the copper plates must lie smoothly on the chips of the GPU.
And how did you fortify them?
With silicone glue?

How big is the temperature difference and the copper plates are not hotter during operation?
After 2 hours of gambling?

 

Thanks for reporting Liquid Metal!

I do not like the temperatures of 81 degrees Celsius.
That hurts my opinion of the graphics card.
And the ears.
If my wife works next to me at the PC - she says I would have a hair dryer.
And if I choose another fan setting - the temperature will rise even more.

 

Good temperatures.
I also had in the range of 60 to 70 degrees Celsius.
But after 2 hours of gambling the suddenly gone up.


What would interest me on your NotePal U3 +.
How did you arrange the fans?
All side by side or one down and two up?

I also have the NotePal U3 +, but no fan - Mod.

 

Spoiler

 

Thanks Bro!

What you wrote - is very interesting.
A heat camera would reveal more details.
But also it can be seen that the barebone with the installed components is considerably improved.
My next step is to apply heat pads on the heatsinks.
I will report as soon as the Fujipoly 14w / mk and the Gelid 12w / mk have arrived.
Maybe even on the fan on the case holder?

 

@Donald@HIDevolution

The bios you guys use. Is it altered by you or ordered that way from Clevo through Sager?

 

I ordered mine with full HIDevolution re-pasting... Looking forward to some great temps! Recently got notification that my beast should be delivered Friday!!

 

@bloodhawk since you've got experience with copper shims what size do you reckon would be good for the CPU? I'm considering offing the IHS to get better contact with the HS.

 

In some thread in the Notebookreview forum I have read that an overclocker around the GPU a heat conducting foil has attached.
This must not be electrically conductive.
This film should go flush around the GPU.
And above this, the metal sheet for cooling is closing the gap.
One could even place as a safety priority on the cooling plate. That just has to close everything.
Then you could very well use Grizzly Conductonaut.
Then the temperatures would tumble down properly.

 

The problem with CLU for the GPUs may be that after some time of using the notebook and moving it around in a bag - like a notebook is supposed to be used - the heatsink (especially in a SLI system) may warp just a little bit (more) over time and the CLU film may be too thin to make good contact.

This is probably the reason why CLU may work great at first and then significantly degrade over time and perform much worse in the end than normal thermal paste.

I would never use CLU for the GPUs especially in the DM3. Single GPU systems with better QC may be a different story, like say a Razer Blade Pro 2016. But wait! This is BGA!! How can I name something like THIS in this thread!!! Please forgive me

 

Good objection with carrying the notebook.

My Notebook is a desktop replacement.
For me, I could try it.
But first I see if the thermal pads work on the heatsinks.
Hope they come this week.
Maybe the temperatures are already going down.
Then I will change my NotePal U3 + the fans differently.
I am still considering whether I also get the Noctua fans.
And then I wait for the bios of Prema and the VBios.
Only then will I operate undervolting.
Then I hope I can gamble in peace.

 

So basically, if your heatsink is flat and makes good contact, CLU is the best, hands down! As it is stickier than Conductonaut and Phobya Liquid Metal, I would go for CLU.

If you want to be sure use Pressure film before to determine your heatsink is okay.

 

For the 6700k the 30mm x 30mm fits perfectly.

This is something i have done with my 980 :

http://imgur.com/a/Gw2XM

The Adhesive i used was Artic Silver Thermal Adhesive. A much better solution would be to solder them. But that needs additional care to make sure they are flat.

Temp drops were about 10-12C.

Do not attempt this without careful planning and knowing exactly what you are doing.

 

You may want a quieter fan model. The Noctuas at 12V are almost as loud as max fans on the DM3, although the pitch is lower.

 

Day 2 of fiddling with my system and more Rise of Tomb Raider sessions:

No issue encountered so far, temps are steady and performance is consistent.
I am planning to do a bit of under-volt to CPU to see the performance increase.
I have shown the screen to few people and nobody can point out the "issue" without me leading them.

All in all, i was expecting that i will have to do alot of tinkering with the system, but surprisingly its performing pretty good at stock. I think HID did a very good job assembling/pasting the system.



PS. just an info for those who might find it useful that I had to use Rufus to install windows because creation tool was not recognizing my Lexar flash drive.

 

Thanks for the information.

 

yupyup Rufus is indeed very handy and forgiving when it comes to sticks / installation formats

 

Sorry I should have been more clear. More so for the z height to compensate for the IHS removal.

 

So these are my values at the moment.
Actually very neat, but the runaway last night has already worried me.
The cores after 60 minutes playing Stalker OSGE as last night.
Let's see how it gets with the thermal pads on the heatpipes.
Then I will again show my temperatures after 60 minutes of gambling.
Maybe Friday?

 

... What are the thermal pads connected to?

 

just as an example, on my laptop which doesn't have a great heatsink, see IC Diamond vs CLU as the heatsink didn't make good contact, IC Diamond gave me 10 degrees lesser temps due to better contact:

http://forum.notebookreview.com/threads/clevo-overclockers-lounge.788975/page-156#post-10240358

 

Ah that will be tricky. But it will basically be the thickness of the IHS + .25-.5mm (max) . My IHS is lapped hence is thickness is way lower than the stock IHS. I was looking for a stock IHS, for that very same purpose, but haven't been able to find one. But i have been using .5mm shims with CLU on both sides with the lapped IHS.
Based off of that i would estimate about 2mm ? But that is just an approximate guess.

 

Even I am only using CLU under the cpu IHS. Otherwise I am using thermal grizzly.

 

did u reseal the IHS or did u just clamp it down with the socket mechanism?

Sent from my Huawei Mate 8 NXT-AL10

 

IMO its better to not seal it .

 

performance-wise yes. especially with a liquid metal paste. with regular paste, it doesnt make that much of a difference. however, with a metal paste, theres still always the risk of it leaking out, even when its clamped down. that, of course, depends on the type of usage with your laptop concerning travelling etc.

 

I spoke to XoticPC, who contacted Sager, about the CPU throttling issue when SLI is enabled. Apparently, they (Sager) never heard about the problem before and they have no way to troubleshoot it. Yet, the problem has been reported here on this very thread. Am I crazy? I feel like they think I'm making this CPU throttling problem up. I have pointed them to this thread but due to the amount of pages, perhaps it got lost.

EDIT: Am I asking for too much? Is the throttling of the CPU when SLI is enabled, normal?