*** Official Clevo P870DM2/P870DM3 (Sager NP9873/NP9872) Owner's Lounge! - The Phoenix 2 is here! **

Not bad and the fans are not as loud all the time while playing BF1

 

Those pictures may be backwards I believe but it was about 10 C difference in Aida64

 

@Papusan Thanks. I need to unplug the CMOS? Besides, My 2 x 16G RAM work fine.

 

Thanks. I want this too.

 

I would guess your reseller sells it. I am not sure if it matters who you buy it from but I felt more comfortable buying from the company I bought the laptop from.

 

So you moved to the vapor chamber right?

 

Correct, I bought the vapor chamber from sager and installed it a few nights ago.

 

On a positive note they also included the screws for the vapor chamber and the thermal pads for both GPU's. Since I only have 1 GPU I saved the second set of thermal pads for a later date when I repaste. The 4 screws or 8 screws for dual GPU did not come with the kit though so if you are adding a additional video card you will need to get 4 extra screws and use the original 4 you had or just buy the full upgrade kit with the additional GPU.

 

Afloyd mentioned this in a earlier post but if you do upgrade don't forget to ask for the CPU heat sink as well. The original CPU heat sink will not work with the GPU vapor chamber. In my case it was $170 for the SLI GPU heat sink and $50 for the CPU heat sink.

 

My guide to pads can help bring it down

http://forum.notebookreview.com/thr...oenix-2-is-here.794530/page-395#post-10343186

 

Thanks, Meaker! I did not mention it but i used your guide and the pads you show in your guide were replaced with 14 w/mk thermal pads when i installed it 2nights ago.

 

As far as comparison i do not have a comparison with stock thermal pads because i had already replaced them previously with the single GPU heatsync as well with 14 w/mk. I did not see a difference though in GPU temperatures when i replaced the stock with the new pads as far as GPU temperatures. I do not think there is a way to monitor the temperature of the GPU memory or is there?

 

Ah well then you are all set.

 

My goal was to get the CPU and GPU both under 70C in long gaming sessions and it looks like I have accomplished that so am happy with the results and can quit messing with it for a while!!

 

Thanks Bro. I bought from HID, will check with them again.

 

They should be able to sort you out

 

Give them a call. I ordered an additional VC assembly from them a few weeks ago because I wanted to try a semi-permanent mod to improve cooling.

 

With the normal fan profile or Overclock fan profile?

Sent from my LG-H918 using Tapatalk

 

So do any of you know the answer if Prema will give access to the premabios for donation?

Overlock fan profile. Normal fan profiles I'm in the low 80's in BF 1.

 

Ok good to hear, I am working to get temps down at the moment with the sli and want to be sure I am in the butter zone so thx.

As for Prema only he will know but right now curretly we are still testing. I know he wants to be sure the product is without question dead on safe before giving to his exclusive partner shops.

Sent from my LG-H918 using Tapatalk

 

Ok, Thank You.

 

Hello Bro,

I have since yesterday the Control Center version = Control Center v5.0001.0.98. The first time that ran the CPUOC.exe with me under Windows 7.
The undervolting in the CC is subjectively much more effective than Throttlestop.
Also the memory overclocking is super simple.
I have not been to the menu so far. Since always came a Windows error message CRCxxx.
I had tried almost all versions of Hotkey = Clevo Control Center.
From many resellers who have offered downloads.
XTUFAN I always disabled.

In Windows 10, I have not tried the CC yet.
But now that it runs under Windows 7 - wonderful.

For the rest, for those who want to know.
The Sony Adapter USB 5V to 12V works just as effectively as a mains adapter 12V 2A. I have tested the Noctua 140mm with both variants.
I have tried new and older 12V fans.
Of Sunon 1208PTS3, the MJ 802512 and three new FAN "I am quiet F182B".
The three "I'm quietly" I have installed and can now up the FAN controller.
68m3 / h per fan are quite good for 80-fans.
From Delta I have a 92-er fan with 168m3 / h tried.
The fan is too loud for me. Maybe I'll get the Fractal Venturi 140mm.
Since there is a version with over 200m3 / h.
But actually I can now gamble in peace.
At about 54 degrees C peak CPU and 51 degrees GPU at room temperature of 23 degrees C, I can not complain.
In case of need I still 140mm fan of Delta from a Cisco Catalyst.
I could try again.
Let's see how much m3 / h the have?
And the 5V Orginal fans of Notepal run also under 12V, but since it has smelt after one minute already after combustion.

In any case, I can - as soon as the second Sony adapter USB 5V to 12V arrived - finally the computer shut down the power supply automatically terminate.
Then I no longer need to pull or unplug the power supply of FAN Controller.

 

where did you get CCC v.98? latest I've seen for the P870DM3 is .90

 

@Phoenix I found 5.0001.0.98 on the Clevo driver pages for the P6xxRS and P65xRP6. Didn't Prema warn not to use newer versions of CCC that are posted on pages for other models?

 

he did, different fan tables, highly not recommended to use such a tool from other models. Intel Drivers are fine to use from other models, just not CCC

 

P870Dx kaby lake @Mr. Fox @Phoenix @Papusan @TBoneSan

http://www.ebay.com/itm/302137409621?rmvSB=true


Any moderators here can ban the company rep from this website due to price gouging? Overprices the other laptops they sell on ebay too.

 

That pricing will be a listing to grab attention (Especially since no P870DX model exists) and wont be intended to sell anything (since they don't have it to sell).

 

@AlanFai Thanks bro. It's a rough go at this point but he's a fighter.

 

@Phoenix have you got a mirror of the CCC .90? left my download for a couple of hours and still I'm only on 40%

 

http://forum.notebookreview.com/threads/clevo-p870dm2-3-drivers-mirror.795059/
credits : Phoenix

 

@Phoenix @AKHIL thank you!

 

Hi Bro,

Eurocom Driver Win764Bit - hotkey = CC v5.0001.0.98

http://www.eurocom.com/ec/drivers(385)ec

See OEM.ini:

[info]
version=Control Center v5.0001.0.98
;0:normal 100:Giga
customer=0


Excuse me for the late reply.

But I had to look this morning again myself once again where I have the driver download started.

If a menu is not visible, simply edit the OEM.ini a bit.
I have not checked whether these changes are necessary from me.
Therefore, if it should run it is good.
Otherwise my settings could help.

[SupportStatus]
ShowOSD = 1
KB_indicator = 2
UseOptionItem = 1
SoundByOnkyo = 0
DefaultSoundByOnkyoValue = 0
SupportCPUOC = 1

; Support status 1: enable, 0: disable 2: by other
[ControlCenter]
ShowCPUOC = 1
ShowGPUOC = 1
ShowGaming = 1
ShowHeadPhone = 2
SupportFlexikey = 1
ShowLWinKey = 1
SupportWhiteLedKB = 2
WhiteKeyDefaultLed = 5
SupportXTUFanTable = 0
SupportGPUOC = 1
SupportCPUOC = 1

 

Bro,

Question:

Is the VBIOS locked or unlocked?
I think it's locked.

https://www.techpowerup.com/vgabios/186530/clevo-gtx1080mobile-8192-160706

I think if you have problems with the flashing Prema VBIOS you can go back here and flash this VBIOS back.

 

1) there is no Prema VBIOS for the 1080 GTX yet

2) I have the stock VBIOS that I saved as soon as I got my laptop anyway

the stock VBIOS version is 86.04.2A.00.2D different than the one they posted. Mine is GSYNC though

 

Hi Bro Phoenix,

Very valuable info!
Because I also have a GSYNC version.
I did not think of that at all.
Therefore, each one before the flashing of Prema VBIOS (Prema Partner) should secure its own VBIOS before.

 

Consider the device id too, non-gsync gtx 1080 is 1BA0
http://forum.notebookreview.com/thr...oenix-2-is-here.794530/page-310#post-10326616

 

I tried CLU, and just like you said, the temperature is a little bit worse than IC diamond, weird, maybe the heat sinks of all P870DM3s are just not so flat.

However since that there's a new problem, the copper heat sink is tainted with CLU and no matter what I do (except lapping, haven't tried that) the CLU just doesn't come off. The surface is still smooth though, at least for my fingers, so do I need to lap it in order to sand it off, or can I just leave it there, since it's metal and shouldn't affect heat transfer?

Also, the markings on the IHS of my CPU is gone now, farewell my warranty.

 

Eh, I have a question, can we tweak the VBIOS and flash it back in order to modify power limit and temp limit?
The stock setting seems to be 90C temperature target, and that causes any long gaming session throttling the GPU. Although I can't notice any significant framerate drop but it's still a bit annoying. I think maybe up the target to 92C will be a lot better.

 

Hi Bro!

This article about Kaby Lake is interesting.
The article is in German, but you can translate via Google Chrome.
http://www.tomshardware.de/intel-ka...rmance-ubertaktung,testberichte-242278-2.html

On the side with the temperatures is obvious that Kaby Lake also produces more waste heat.
Then I would change the CPU again higher temperatures. I'll say first - No thanks!
The prerequisite is that Prema Partner provide a BIOS which supports Kaby Lake.

 

You can leave it, the CLU fills in the surface and stains the area so its not doing any harm or causing any additional heat. If you wanted to get rid of it then you would need to polish down the finish as you expected.

 

Oh brother, 20c+ that hurts for air cooling in laptops! I just don't think I can deal with that much temp increase, disappointing early result for sure.

 

The 6700K inside my Sager is already on the edge of thermal throttling, 95C under full load. So 20C plus will just throttle the hell out of the CPU.
However I don't understand why new architecture produces more heat, it doesn't make sense since the point of having new architecture is to increase efficiency, right? Right?

 

Have you tried undervolting yet? Someone had mentioned you could set a curve through afterburner. I did not have much luck with it but do not have much experience with that program.

 

Is it a possibility here that the stock thermal pads are what is causing the small gap. Maybe fitting new thermal pads would get better results.

 

I replaced all the thermal pads with something called 'K5-Pro', it's a viscous thermal compound designed for thermal pad replacement, bought from Amazon.

 

I don't think I can... so... how? The stock overclocking tool doesn't allow me to undervolt.

 

Sorry I did edit my post but I meant through msi afterburner.

 

Ohh, ok don't have any experience with that but have heard of others using it.

 

How is this done in MSI Afterburner, the voltage adjustment is locked? School us as I have looked at this a few times to try and understand. All I see possible is to adjust the core target by voltage but no way to move those voltage targets by offset.

 

I wouldn't think so as the DM1 had the same pads but I will try to get some measurements with my calipers when I pull mine apart to replace the pads.