*** Official Clevo P870DM2/P870DM3 (Sager NP9873/NP9872) Owner's Lounge! - The Phoenix 2 is here! **

Nope, you're thinking of CLP.

 

So applying just a tiny bit is the way to go I guess, and making sure it is spread out evenly, hope I don't screw this up

 

With CLU you spread it out manually over the entire contact surface. I highly recommend getting some lint-free swabs. They're much easier to use than the applicator Coollaboratory provides.

 

It is hard to put the small amount of CLU that you actually need on there. You only need a very tiny drop, much less than some of the videos on YouTube show. As an example what I used ended up probably being less than half of a drop of visine or clear eyes. I used scotch tape as well to mask off before I applied.

 

Did you apply on both the chip and the IHS like on the rockit video?

 

Reports showing [email protected] GHz running with 1.264V
Why should 7700K be hotter with use of less voltage than older 6700K?

 

I did but applied even less to the IHS. I am not positive this is necessary though someone else might have a better answer. The first chip I did a few years ago I only applied to the chip and it seemed to work fine. This time I masked it off like in the video and applied a very small amount to the IHS as well.

 

If you watched that video, you need less than half what he used as you see him wiping it off on the side to get rid of excess and to me it was still a little to wet when he was finished.

 

Always apply Liquid metal on IHS and heatsink!!

 

This for example.
http://www.tweaktown.com/news/55219/7700k-vs-6700k-much-hotter-barely-faster/index.html

 

Maybe you can get Papusan or someone else to show you a better video on the amount to apply and what it should look like when your done.

Maybe you can point him towards a good guide. Problem with the internet is you get so many people doing different things. Some videos show only IHS, some show both IHS and heatsync, some people have applied to the IHS and then put a small amount on the heatcync and wiped some if off so there is only a glass look left. My understanding is that you do not want it to look wet but more like a mirror shine when your finished.

 

7700K is only a overclocked 6700K!!
And Kaby lake need less core voltage. Aka less voltage = less heat. See the voltage numbers in previous post!!
Read also http://forum.notebookreview.com/threads/clevo-overclockers-lounge.788975/page-701#post-10402173

Edit. My [email protected] GHz need 1.342. What do you think would happen with my chips or Kaby lake with 1.264V and same clock speed? Less heat?

I think you will find video about applying Liquid metal in this review https://biosmods.wordpress.com/2015/10/21/sky-x9/ Or hit up @Mr. Fox Youtube videos

 

@Benmaui

The picture on page 5 is more than I used but I am not sure if using that much is better for temps. I would say masking it off would give you less chance at CLU on the sides and less chance at harming your computer.

 

More data points would be needed to judge what the average chip is like at what voltages/clocks.

 

Voltage isn't everything, though. My 4800MQ is one of the hottest ones around using the least voltage I've ever seen on a Haswell mobile chip for its stock speeds. Plus, architecture changes make big differences. Haswell and Broadwell vs Skylake/Sandy Bridge/Ivy Bridge are good examples =D

We'll have to wait and see how Kaby Lake does in general, but if multiple people with early samples report it being much hotter and not much faster, I'd say that's a rather interesting trend.

 

Loving my P870DM2 I just got. FYI, they accidentally gave me a 1440P screen when I ordered the 120hz FHD. Same price, I'll take it!

Still lots of room to push, but here's what I have so far.

6700k @ 4.2ghz -175mv adaptive
1070 SLI @+180/250
32GB Corsair 3000mhz
IC Diamond on CPU/GPU's
GPU 2 blockage on bottom cover removed (not sure why they don't do this from factory)

Used overclock fan profile.

Max temps with OC'ed GPU's on Rise of the Tomb Raider @ 99% GPU usage sitting for 30 minutes are 73c/74c and 51C for the CPU. Firestrike doesn't come close to touching 70 on the GPU's, or heaven/valley.

CPU can be pushed a lot further, max I saw during 1hr Realbench x.264 torture test was 68-70c.


http://www.3dmark.com/fs/11009889



Edit: Just want to mention there is no CPU throttle with SLI on mine. Maintains 4.2 during BF4 95%-100% GPU usage (1440p, 4x AA, 120% scaling) OC'ed. 73c/75c GPU, CPU 61C.

 

It may just have been a swap considering panel supplies.

 

Party pooper.

 

I'm just giving some credit to the supplier, it's not as if what I said means he will need to send it back

 

Comparison with my single GTX1080.

 

Getting a little better but time for bed. @afloyd Were you running xmp1 with ram at the 4.7ghz overclock? Haven't been able to get mine stable yet over 4.4 with xmp1 setting.

 

I tend to manually program in the timings once XMP is loaded for the best results.

 

Yes I run XMP1 all the time, was one of the first things I did when I booted it on was make sure that was set in the BIOS.

 

Not the big numbers. From Hexus

I don't think Kaby lake is changed much vs. Skylake regarding temperature with same voltage(same architecture). But I expect more examples will running 5.0GHz running on air due slightly lower voltage. I really hope this rebranded chips don't be the new 4940mx

 

Yeah well, we'll wait until things come out. Hopefully it'll be good too.

 

Having something pretty strange happen, first off I am on windows 10 (first time user) so, my user account control, you know the admin window that pops up when installing or launching programs, well every time it pops up, it is super laggy, mouse freezing, audio stutters, not sure what is wrong or what to do, did about an hour of research on google and nothing came up, anyone have an Idea or a fix?

 

switch off user account control ^^

Sent from my Huawei Mate 8 NXT-AL10

 

I seriously considered it, but kind of wary of doing that cause of malware .

There has to be a fix right? I'm hating Windows 10 already...

 

I had this once when I accidentally installed the Anniversary update.

 

been running with AUC switched off for year now, no issues just need a robust antivirus program and a healthy portion of general awareness towards bad sites / downloads / emails, etc...

 

Turning off UAC on W10 though kills a lot of its modern apps and some other functions. It's like the OS just says "hey screw off". I can't recommend it as a fix unfortunately.

Try disabling GFE's Share Overlay first. If that doesn't fix it, then set the screen to not dim when it requests permissions and see if that fixes it. If neither fixes it, nuke W10 from orbit and use a better OS (I.E. anything).

 

30 non retail chips is a tiny sample.

 

I know But I don't belief Kaby lake will be a much hotter chips clock for clock than 6700K, as some stated

 

interesting, i never got the feeling of missing out on any features or tools in W10 with UAC disabled. care to elaborate on what is affected?

Sent from my Huawei Mate 8 NXT-AL10

 

I am interested of course because I will move over if it seems to clock better in the 4.5ghz region.

 

I can't remember too much what happens beyond the modern apps, I read it a long time ago. I have never touched W10 personally so I couldn't give my own experience with fiddling. Well, I might have to use it soon for a little bit. Not looking forward to it, though.

 

W10 Pro is okay, granted that I only use it for daily tasks and not as my actual daily driver / main OS.

I would really like the capability to disable DWM/Aero though, vsync cancer.

 

Yeah after you hack away all the crap it basically returns to something resembling W8.1 w/ Start 8. But the lack of update choice still makes me extremely annoyed as well as resetting things on reboot/update. I also heard that the stupid svchost service that takes up lots of CPU cycles on reboot/randomly-during-operation has shown up on W10 too. Friend in AUS is using a metered connection setting (due to being in AUS) and has lots of time each day with 15% CPU usage just taken up by Windows Update service... when it can't even update. And unlike 7/8.1 I can't select "never search for updates". I'd have to kill the whole service to get rid of it which means some other things kind of stop working so well. I'll have to use W10 but I won't make it my daily driver. I'll be dual-booting 8.1 and 10 on two separate drives and all I'll do is run updates for W10 like once every couple months, or if I have to use *shudder* UWP for a game. *shudder*

Heh.

 

Shutup 10 is really nice for that.

Microsoft has ignored the hardcore windows user for W8/W10 it seems.

 

Does it regulate the svchost? That's great. I was going to use Shutup 10 anyway though. Just like using a 6700K in a laptop doesn't exist in my brain without a delid, using W10 without Shutup 10 and Start 10 doesn't exist in my head.

W8.1 at least doesn't reset things or break itself multiple times a year with updates. W10 was designed for Micro$haft to benefit and for no other reason.

 

ha, using w10 with shutup10 and start10, doesnt go without those. start10 was actually the first software in a VERY long time that i spent money on, worth every penny if u ask me

Sent from my Huawei Mate 8 NXT-AL10

 

I feel like start10 doesn't actually do much, and I actually like the "live tiles" no matter how silly you think they are.

 

Start 8 and Start 10's costs are part of the price of those OSes if you ask me. Using those OSes without those programs is basically akin to suicide.

 

Its not. No response from the razer core whatsoever. Heck, Thunderbolt driver doesn't even appear in the device manager.
I can force TB to be on, however, it doesn't seem to recognize anything.

The intel thunderbolt manager indicates external gpu not supported.

 

Contact your vendor for the latest thunderbolt firmware.

 

Is the Core powering on ?
Also you might need to update your TB3 firmware.
I tried the Core on my friends DM3 and it works just fine, though it was a PITA to get the drivers to install.
The TB3 HDK however works flawlessly.

 

Hey all, I've been away a while and missed a lot. I am thinking of upgrading from the 870DM 980 to the DM3 1080sli. It sounds like the 870DM cannot be upgraded to 1080sli at all, or at least not easily, and likely not cheaply even if it could.

Is there anything that I may not be aware of, issues, or things to look out for with the DM3?

I just reached out to HID earlier today but haven't heard back as of yet. Here is what I am looking at:
-6700K with delid (7700K would be nice but not really wanting to wait months for it. I will likely only overclock a little, maybe 4.2/4.3 daily, only trying higher when benching and goofing around)
-reuse my 32GB 2800mhz memory
-1080sli
-2560x1440 120 hz display (I like my 4k, but I do tend to game at 1440 with higher refresh vs 4k with only 60)
-Transfer my 4TB SSD, and 2 1TB M.2 SATA SSD's, possibly add a 2nd 2.5" SSD later

My biggest gripe is that it doesn't have an internal optical bay but I realize I am in the minority using my optical a lot. The only other choice I would even consider is the GT83 but not only does it costs more, is slower, and lower res/60 hz screen, BGA CPU, so I think I will just live without internal optical. I don't trust MSI because of the unadvertised "battery drain" feature while gaming on my GT80S, and honestly I'm disappointed in my current one not being very upgradeable either but Clevo is really the only choice I have.

Can I reuse my extra 330w adapters and 2-1 adapter that I use now? I like having a spare setup so I can leave one sitting at home.

 

Hi everyone, I was wondering if someone has some advice on what is going wrong with my installation of Clevo Control Center. I uninstalled it weeks ago and did the reset by removing the cmos battery to correct the fan tables. I've been running without control center at all and temps and fan behavior have been great. I decided to install the latest version today without XTU following Phoenix's guide by editing the oem.ini file so XTU doesn't install. Unfortunately it seems control center won't install fully/correctly. It installs the control center, but it isn't showing up in the system tray and I have to open it up manually from the folder. The hotkey app doesn't work using the FN+hotkey combo, can't get it to open at all. It's weird though because it's showing up in startup processes and I can see it's running when I do control+shift+escape. Also, when I shut down the hotkey app prevents shutdown and I have to force shutdown everytime.

 

Try this. It's version .9 with I've already modded. It works a treat for me and doesn't goof fan tables.

https://drive.google.com/open?id=0B7SvfOOhNLmuTWxhTV9jaGFyc0U

 

Thanks for this. I'm going to try that when I get home tonight.

Although I've already done the nvram reset, I noticed earlier that there is a folder full of XTU files. I think it's just leftovers installed from when I first received my laptop, as I don't see Intel Extreme Tuning Utility in my list of programs when I checked to see if I could uninstall it. Is there anyway to check for sure? I'm going to check with that Autorun64 app when I get home too.