*** Official Clevo P870DM2/P870DM3 (Sager NP9873/NP9872) Owner's Lounge! - The Phoenix 2 is here! **

That is absolutely MEGA. Now I'm not going to say you don't need that and trust that you do Enjoy

 

Hi Guys, Sorry to sound like a broken record, I'm sure this info has already been posted, I tried going back through some old posts to get the info I need and can't find it. So here's my issue. I have a Eurocom X9E2, Got it a couple months back. Has a 6700K, single GTX 1070 with the 6 pipe heat sink, #1 850 EVO M.2 500 GB for my OS, #2 500 GB 2.5in 850 EVO for storage. My Bios is 1.05.01 and EC is 1.05.04. The CCC doesn't work. I can open it but when I attempt to open the cpu OC Windows says it's not responding and closes it. I tried a minor OC thru the Bios and the computer froze up. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks Guys

 

You should not use CC OC features, instead you should use TS.
What language is your OS?
In some languages you need to change something in Regional Settings.

 

I'm running Windows 10 pro English

 

Then it´s nothing to do with regional settings.
It should be working.
A new version just came out yesterday.
Uninstall your version, restart the system, install the one here: http://forum.notebookreview.com/threads/clevo-p870dm2-3-drivers-mirror.795059/
Ohhhh before installing a new, check if the folder at C:\Program Files (x86)\Hotkey is empty
It should be empty before installing the new version!

 

Haha yep, lots of high QD 4-64k reads and a ton of space. I was considering waiting for Xpoint, but between the likely lower capacities of initial offerings and probably a big (bigger) price premium, I opted to just go for it.

 

guys, if someone has installed the game league of legends would you please tell me your average fps? beacuse i´m having a weird problem just with that game and with that game only, the gpu throttles and stayed at 1.557 mhz or even down to 139 mhz and this produces very erratic fps in the game between 50 and 90 with heavy spikes that makes the game unplayable no matter what setting, ultra or low, v.sync, capped fps, always the same. also change from adaptive to high performance in nvcp and no luck. if someone here has the game to try it would be helpfull.

 

Any decent deals yet on the 2TB M.2's?

I'm currently running a 1+1+1+4TB setup, I can't wait to get a second 4TB, and replace my aging 1TB M.2 SATAs with the 2TB PCIE. 10TB on my laptop, and I'll never have to worry about storage again!

It took me a long time to convert to SSD's because I like to carry all my stuff with me and not mess with externals (except for backups). Once they started getting 1 & 2TB drives I jumped on board all the way.

 

I doubt you'll see any deals since the item isn't even released at some retailers yet. I got mine for 1300 each with no tax from B&H.

 

On my system, I top out at 300 fps @ 1080p.
4k was 150-200 IIRC.

 

Are you using SLI? I don't think league plays well with SLI.

Sent from my SM-G930W8 using Tapatalk

 

Thanks. Yeah I'll likely grab a 2nd 4TB first since that gets me more storage for the same price, and upgrade my 1TB's later on.

I installed Windows on the 4TB once in a different laptop and that was a pain in the rear. Why do they still have the 2TB limit for the Windows partition?

I mean it's almost 2017, and lots of drives out there are much larger than 2TB and they make it very difficult to get past it. Also you can't use storage spaces with the OS partition, also you can't span an OS partition. It's like they want to sell large drives, but force you to partition them out into a bunch of tiny drives. Very irritating to say the least, and feels like 1990's having all of these limits in place. Makes managing the space harder (I have to split some of my larger collections up) and backing up much harder.

I prefer 2 drives showing in explorer, my main OS drive with all programs and games, and my data drive with all my media and other files. My current setup isn't bad, I have a 2TB OS (two 1TB M.2 RAID'd) and a 5TB DATA (1TB and 4TB 2.5" spanned)

 

nop, with it or without it is the same result sadly.

 

Lol my drive layout will give you a seizure XD
950 Pro 512 - Windows
950 Pro 512 - Work Caches and Footage.
2 x 850 Evo 512 - Caches and games ( m.2 to SATA adapter)
2 TB (split into 2 partitions) - Movies and TV Shows.

+

12TB NAS. and 2 X 4TB WD Blacks over USB 3.1 - with 2 partitions each .

 

And here is me with just my 1TB 961 in my main machine and 2x 500GB 850 evos in my other one.

 

Once I had the correct Win OS install image (w/ EFI support), I had no problem installing Win 8 (haven't tried Win 10, but assume it's the same for Win 10) onto a larger than 2TB drive. Saw the entire 4TB (had to convert to GPT via diskpart) and saw it as one primary boot partition.

 

What are you on about dude!! Initialize them as GPT and you no longer have that 2TB limit

 

just realized that is not just league of legends...every non-demanding game like Cs:Go, wow, etc the gpu never boost beyond 1.557mhz and turns out in a very unplayable experience, kinda sucks expend 4k on a machine and get better fps with a crappy chromebook with an intelHD 6000....

 

Is Geync / Vsyjc turned off in BIOS?
Also in the NVIDIA control panel, under Manage 3D Settings ,go to Programs tab, and then under CSGO and League , change the Power Management option to Prefer Maximum performance. Also make sure Gsync / Vsync are turned off.

 

Yeah it does indeed work, but was a pain in the rear to get going. Definitely not easy to figure out, took a bit of googling and trial and error. I don't remember the exact steps so I would have to start over, but I believe in the end I had to do some messing around in diskpart, and rebooting with some random luck.

I guess it just seems unnecessary in this day in age. I mean if it was a 100TB drive or something I could see it being out of the normal limits, but the PC my dad just bought for $400 has a drive larger than 2TB in it. It should be able to be done during installation from the GUI. Maybe a warning about having to switch to GPT but that should be it IMO.

 

*drools*

 

That's gonna be me come Skylake X <3 Nice to meet you fellow DtI Rebel friend.

 

I was only referring to the OS drive, the one you install windows on. You can't do it from the windows installation when you're setting up the drive. You have to boot into a command prompt and it wasn't clear how to do it, or what you even had to do. Put it this way, I know I am not the only one struggling with it because there are posts all over saying to do it different ways. It should be straight forward, not a pain in the rear like it is now.

Windows has so many odd things, don't have multiple drive in the system during install or you will be screwed when removing one later for an upgrade or whatever, you can't make the OS drive part of a spanned drive, can't make it part of a storage spaces setup either. I always find the one thing you can't do, it's very irritating to say the least.

 

You should have the option of MBR or GPT when installing your OS. I am SURE windows 8.1 gives the option for it... I'm absolutely sure. I know I've ended up with GPT on fresh OS install before, so being MBR-locked is not a thing.

As for multiple drives, it really is a pain. You can remove the drives physically, or... you can not format them on first install . Before windows continues it should show you where it's made what partitions and if you only see say... "drive 1 partition 0, drive 1 partition 1, drive 1 partition 2" then you clearly aren't using any other drives in the system on that install, and they're safe to remove. You can always just format them in windows.

Trust me, I've run into my fair share of issues with Windows and their random crap too. But eventually you learn to look and see before you do. That saves a RIDICULOUS amount of headache later.

 

It gives it unless he bought OEM or System Builder or took the free upgrade, then he's hosed, hands down -drops mic-

 

I believe he said he was on 8.1 and didn't try 10 yet? If system builder OS was used I guess... but even so.

 

System builder is more locked down than OEM directly lol, I wasn't even aware that there were 3 versions till recently, since I thought it was just retail vs OEM.

 

@Mr. Fox I bought this cooling pad but not really sure if effective


good airflow though

 

rofl

Sent from my Huawei Mate 8 NXT-AL10

 

Yup, between Google searching and trial and error (BIOS changes - CSM was on by default, booting into CMD prompt at beginning of the Win install process) I must of spent 2-3 hours fiddling with it until it worked.

 

Who needs Google when you can add @bloodhawk on Steam?

 

That should last me until 4TB Pros come down in price, which should be my last upgrade for a while. Until Xpoint comes out and I'm kicking myself for spending 5K on obsolete storage

 

From the
NBR Windows 10 Clean Installation Guide

Once you are booted in UEFI and have run the clean command, once you create any partition the SSD/HDD is automatically initialized as GPT since you're booted to the USB Flash Disk installer in UEFI mode.

If you were doing this on Windows 7, you can run the clean command then the convert gpt command

==============================================================================================

Drive Partitioning:

1- It is imperative that you only have one drive attached to your computer once you are installing Windows, be it Windows 7, 8, or 10, Windows has a nasty habit of placing the boot files on the 2nd drive and/or 2nd partition if it finds one. Thus, we need to ensure we only have one drive attached to the system when we are installing Windows and we need to create only one partition; so if you plan on partitioning your drive into C:, D:, etc. for now, we only want to create the C: Partition so everything will go into C: including the boot files.

Having the boot files installed on a 2nd partition or 2nd drive not only slows down your boot time if the second drive was a slow HDD, but also will create headaches when creating an image backup of your system.

Example: You install Windows, setup everything, then backup your C: partition to another partition. When the time comes and you want to restore that image, it would be missing the boot files since they are on another partition/drive. So if your boot files ever get corrupted or infected by some virus, you would have to format and start from scratch.

2- Once you get to the partition wizard screen which shows you the connected drive and any partitions if they exist, press SHIFT + F10 to pull up the Command Prompt Window.

3- Once you are at the command prompt, type: diskpart then hit Enter

4- Type list disk then hit Enter

5- You will now see the number next to the disk you are trying to install Windows on, if you followed the guide and only had one drive connected, then it would be Disk # 0

6- Type select disk 0 then hit Enter to make that disk the working disk which diskpart is going to perform its actions on

7- Type clean then hit Enter



8- Now that our disk is wiped and is neither initialized as an MBR Disk nor a GPT Disk, we can go back to the Windows Drive Partition Wizard.

9- Press refresh on the bottom left of the Window.

10- Select the empty/unpartitioned space of your drive then click on NEW

11- Now we need to enter the size of the disk. If you want to setup the disk as a single partition, then just leave the default size alone. If you want to create 2 or more partitions out of your drive. Then enter the number in MB of the partition size you want to allocate for C: which would be the Windows OS Partition.

Note: The way I do it, and because I don't like seeing my disk size as 100.2 GB for exampe of 99.9 GB, I will show you how to get the exact size to create the partition.

Example: Let's say you want to create a 200GB Partition for C:

Using a calculator, enter 200.1 x 1024 which would give you a value of 204,902.4 MB

Now add 565 MB to that value because Windows needs to create a few other partitions before C: like recovery, system, and MSR

So your end result would be 204,902 + 565 = 205,467 MB

So now you can enter 205,467 in the size of the new disk and create it, you will notice that you will get a C: partition of exactly 200.1 GB

Why did I add the 0.1 GB? because if the partition was exactly 200.0 GB then Windows will display it in Computer as a 199.9 GB partition. So that 0.1 GB we added is to get an exact 200GB Partition.



12- At this point, if you have more unpartitioned space, leave it unpartitioned until we get to the Windows desktop

13- Select the newly created partition, it would usually be the 4th one then hit the NEXT button to start the Windows Installation

 

That needs refrigerated air inlets

 

i c u dont like 199.999999

 

I'm kinda frustrated....
I followed Meaker's guide for the thermal pads, applied Thermal Grizzly to the GPUs and CPUs.....

Was running the Final Fantasy XIV benchmark: http://na.finalfantasyxiv.com/benchmark/

And my GPU1 eventually reached 90 and bounced off of that while GPU2 sat at 78. Both were at 100% utilization and the fan was set on overclock and was at max speed.

I guess I could have applied too much TIM, but I'm really upset / frustrated at this point.... Any suggestions would be welcomed.

 

Did you check the contact the thermal pads were making before applying the TIM? It is always good practice to make sure the pads are properly making contact, before finishing the job and applying the TIM.

Just screw on the heat sink and remove it once, to see pads have the proper "indentation" of the components they are supposed to come in contact with. Sometimes, if enough care is not taken, certain stiff pads stretch while removing the protective film, causing less than desired thickness.

 

I'll go and double check. I need to order more pads as I had to reuse some (not the crappy gray stuff that was ripped apart on the first heatsink removal) of the green pads. Next time I'll order the right size of sheet instead of a super small one....

Any suggestions for external cooling fans? I did remove all of that "foil" junk on the bottom plate to increase airflow.

 

Most of are using modded Notepal U3's with 2000-3000RPM fans. I have 4 x Noctua 2000rpm ippc PWM fans on mine with a PWM controller for controlling speeds. @Papusan is using the EK Vardar 3000RPM fans afaik.

 

Were you using max fans when the gpu was reaching 90 C?
Edit: never mind I see you said max fans. Ya that does not Seem right.

 

Thanks for that. Do you have a link as to how you did the mod?
Also I wonder if the heatsinks aren't tightened enough.... The screws that come with it stink lol.

 

The only issue I had was having to apply more thermal paste than I normally would on my gpu. Had to apply, take it off and check it until I felt comfortable with the correct amount since it did not seem to make perfect contact.

 

I personally dont have the DM3, so cant speak of the heatsink / screws lol .

But @Mr. Fox and @Papusan had links to their mods. I cant seem to find the one for mine. But here are few from my first version , before i installed the noctua fans :

http://imgur.com/a/8R6d3

 

I mean I left the fans on overclocked profile so I assume they eventually get to max fans using that. I could try just flat out using max fans and see. I can't imagine it getting much louder LOL.

 

So apparently overclock != maximum fan (which I guess is obvious, but....)
I finished the benchmark this time with much better results. GPU1 ended at 80 and GPU2 at 78. Much more in line with what I think is decent? (My CPU is not delidded, will be waiting for a 7700k for that).

I'm going to leave it in a loop (so instead of a 9 minute benchmark leave it on for 30 minutes) and see what it creeps up to. Any other suggestions are welcomed but at this point there may not be a lot I'm sure...

 

Are you making good contact with the dies?

 

Well that's the big question. Unless I can find a way to order replacement screws I'm not sure I can get any better contact? I believe I am getting decent contact. Each time I've removed the heat sink I have TIM on both sides.

Anything to look at? When I applied the Kryonaut I used the thicker / applicator / apply to entire die / IHS (for CPU)


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

That could be part of it as well if your CPU temps are having effect on the GPU temps due to the heat inside the laptop. I don't have 2 gpu's so I know that will generate more heat but after the delid in overclock mode is between 65 to 70 C on both the CPU and GPU

 

The way to check is to apply a cheap paste of similar viscosity, screw down the heatsink, then remove it and check the paste thickness. Alternatively, you can also use pressure paper. Since you already repasted, you can skip step 1 and examine the results. You can see an example of a difference in paste thickness on both cores in the first photo here.