*** Official Clevo P870DM2/P870DM3 (Sager NP9873/NP9872) Owner's Lounge! - The Phoenix 2 is here! **

For the disassembling guide, I can't find any yet that totally disassembled until the monitor connectors are visible

 

Try swapping the secondary card into the primary school to and run just on that.

 

You mean running the system as a single GC?

 

Yes so that you can test if one card is having an issue.

 

Update:

Swapped the GC and voila! The screem came back to life.

And now it is showing that the GC is stopped by Windows from activating.

Any idea on why the card just died?

 

I finally did delid my cpu and repaste with IC diamond and the die and IHS.

this is the before pic with the Coollaboratory Liquid Ultra. does it look right?
there was left over from the original thermal paste on the CPU IHS side, they didn't bother taking out the CPU and clean it good before applying the Coollaboratory Liquid Ultra...

** Also on this pic there is a purple sot near the socket latch (left bottom) on the MB
anyone has an ID on what this is??

but now I did play Crysis 3 for 40 mn and my temp where 80 max gpu 90 max

 

That feels like a bit too much liquid ultra IMO.

But CLU does leave the surface "stained" , so till the time you give it a good scrub for a few minutes using 99% isopropyl, you should be good for a repaste.

Just to double check, you still have CLU on the DIE , and you replaced the paste on the IHS with CLU , correct?

Because of you put ICD on the DIE, that pretty much defeats the purpose of a delid, just like how Linus from LTT decided to test things using a sub standard paste (by today's market and standards) after he delidded his 6700k (the improper way).

 

well I paste the die and IHS with ICD for now for testing I will do a CLU on the die later. can I CLU the die without doing a IHS relid? I saw a video of someone that did the DIE and the inside of the IHS with CLU but relid the IHS. (maybe for leaking?)

 

You definitely can relid the CPU after applying CLU inside, but a lot of members here and myself just placed the IHS on top and held it down the normal way.
Main reason i didnt relid is to avoid any height issues. Since i knew i will be using Liquid metal on the IHS, i wanted to have perfectly even contact.

There shouldn't be any leaks till the time you dont use TOO MUCH CLU. Obviously if you carry around the laptop a lot, and know that there will be a lot of bump and sudden movements, then liquid metal wont be a good idea, unless you know that you heat sink is making good tight even contact.

 

Thanks.. I'm waiting for a 7700K to arrive then I will delid it and apply the CLU on it.
CLU on the DIE only or both DIE and inside the HIS?

** Also on this pic I posted there is a purple sot near the socket latch (left bottom) on the MB, any ID on what this is??

 

Both. But on the IHS have a super thin layer.

That looks like a mark from a Sharpie or something.

 

It could be any number of things but static shock is usually the prime candidate when the machine has been worked on.

 

NEW SAGER OWNER, RUNNING HOT 90+!

Help! I'm totally overwhelmed by this huge thread, I've been bouncing around in it, and want to get my new machine running as fast and stable as possible for video editing and 3D rendering. I'm an experienced system builder but new to Clevos.

Is there no sticky in this thread for new owners / FAQ?

Things I'd like to do / need info on:

• CPU DeLid & repasting
• Which paste?
• GPU repasting - will I need to do this after CPU DeLid?
• Thermal pads, will I need them, and which ones?
  
• Prema BIOS - where/how can I get it? (I realize after reading in this thread i probably screwed up by buying fro XOTIC PC )
• Undervolt? Underclock? Overclock? I need this to be stable for 3D rendering.
• RAM: advice on which RAM to get? 16GB sticks, probably will max out at 48GB or 64GB
• CCC - where to get latest versions?
• Nvidia Drivers: which are the best?
• Other utilities I should install?
• Best cooler unit to set it on, on the desk at home?
• What else do I need to know to "Pro" out this machine?
• Links to guide/quickest tools debloating / defuxing Windows 10 so it is a clean and usable workhorse OS (I've been going through TechCity YouTube videos, workable but painful )

Thanks so much guys!

Sager NP9873 (Clevo P870DM3-G) (ordered from XOTIC PC)

• Intel® Kabylake™ i7-7700K
• 17.3” 4K QFHD LED Backlit Wide screen (3840x2160)
• 2x GTX-1070
• Sager-applied paste @ pre-ship: "IC Diamond Thermal Compound - CPU + GPU"
  (did this do any good?? Waste of $35? My temps are hitting 90C benchmarking out of the gate!)
• 1 x 16GB (2x8GB) DDR4 2400MHz Dual Channel Memory
• 1 x 2TB Samsung 960 Pro NVMe M.2 SSD
• Bigfoot Networks Killer™ Dual Band Wireless-AC N1535 [M.2 Chip] + Bluetooth 4.1
• Windows 10 Home
  
  
• Backpack: Tortuga Outbreaker 45L (4/5 stars, fits, must add padding to bottom)
• Neoprene Sleeve: Waterfly 17" Soft sleeve case (fits, barely)
• Hard case: Pelican 1495 (can find roughed-up ones on ebay for $70)

 

This was a bit of a sandwich list. But see all in blue. And probably more Most can be find in the mentioned Clevo sub-threads.

 

Awesome reply thanks Papusan! Now I feel I have a more organized starting point.

I got the Rockit delidding tool but want to ensure I have all necessary parts, pads, paste, etc before I start.

 

I think my system was build by sagernotebook for gentech
is this normal to leave sticker like this on the bottom of the CPU?

 

No reason for it to cause any issues unless it slips in between the processor and the pins.

 

I've had a Sager NP9872-S with 1x GTX 1080 since last August, and I'm loving it! I'm looking to add more RAM, though. I have 2 slots free and am looking to add 32 GB for a total of 64 GB. Would this kit work?
http://www.crucial.com/usa/en/p870dm2-g/CT9351711

 

So I was was thinking of getting a 7700k. What's the best way to install one in my p870dm3. I saw others talking about shims or changing screws. Thanks in advance.

 

Yep, it wont cause issues being left there.

 

I've noticed something odd. On my Prema BIOS DM3 my Gskill 64gb 2400 kit doesn't show any XMP profiles for memory settings. Just user defined. Is this normal?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

If it is native 2400Mhz RAM then it won't have XMP profiles. They use them only for 2600, 2800, 3000...

 

Good to know. I was used to desktop RAM having them regardless. Thanks again!

 

It used to as the CPUs only officially supported lower speeds of DDR4.

 

Great explanation..
what tools you use on step #4 ? syringe?

 

Got my GC replaced and now back to full power!

But i did realise something odd. As i was running benchmarks to test the system stability after they replace my GC, my temps are reaching quite high.

CPU: 100 deg C
GPU 1: 91 deg C
GPU 2: 86 deg C

And reading through htwingnut review and benchmark, it seems like this is actually normal for the P870DM3.

Any suggestions or ideas on how do I improve the temps? I already underclock the CPU and it lessen my temps by 10 deg C during benchmark.

 

Ok everyone I couldn't just be happy with my perfectly good 6700k. I ordered a 7700, delid tool, CLU, ICD, thermal pads (.5 - 1.5mm), and copper shims. For those that have done the upgrade is removing the C-clips from the CPU heatsink enough or should I also use the copper shim?

 

It depends on your heatsink and bracket. Just popping the clips was enough for me and @bloodhawk, but others like @Mr. Fox have reported brackets which are warped and do not allow the heat sink to come into contact with the IHS even with the clips popped.

 

Yeah, try first just removing the c-clips on the screws.

 

Ok sounds like a plan. I'm also going to do the meaker gpu pads, upgrade to the intel 8265, add another ssd, and I think I'm going to tear it down and cerakote the body. I've done some of my own stuff in flat dark earth and lasered the zombie outbreak response team logo. When I get closer I'll get your opinions on what I want to go with. Thanks for the inputs.

 

Great, you guys have photos or videos doing this and the copper shim?

 

That's the case with me too. Not a flat enough finish I think. Or just not perfectly and consistently even enough.
After a few different combo's I opted for a .8mm shim and put the C-clips back in. It's decent now.. but not as out of this word as Bloodhawk's.
I might fiddle somemore in the future but I'm getting really tired of wasting metal TIM.

 

I just installed a Samsung 850 EVO (1TB) into my previously empty second bay and both the BIOS and windows 10 are not detecting it. I have a 950 pro nvme m.2 drive and a 1TB hhd already installed. Does anyone have any ideas what I am doing wrong?

 

Have you put installed spacer (clear bit of plastic with black foam bits on it). I did the same with my EVO and nothing in bios/windows, popped the spacer in and everything fine. Feels like its slotted home but does not.

 

I did install the spacer. I stuck it on the back of the ssd and slotted it in, then screwed it in. Is that what you did?

Sent from my Nexus 6P using Tapatalk

 

I installed mine on the chassis itself but would have thought putting it on the drive should have worked

Drive spacer by aziraphaleUK posted Mar 27, 2017 at 9:52 AM

 

I had the same issue with my 850. I eventually found that I needed to hold the drive up as I pushed it into its slot. The drive will easily go below the slot and it doesn't seem like anything is wrong until you turn it on and see no drive.

 

That did the trick. Thanks!

Sent from my Nexus 6P using Tapatalk

 

Without the insert the connector was wedged between the port and the case

 

You forgot @Prema

Yeah i think i lucked out both with the new CPU heatsink and the bracket. My contact is pretty much perfect and even. Ill add extra spring to increase the contact pressure,once my system is back from RMA.
btw. forgot to ask you, if your IHS is lapped? if it is, then that might just have made the difference. I could be wrong though, specially considering the bracket anomalies.

Also @Mr. Fox @Papusan @Johnksss@iBUYPOWER

Coollaboratory Copper is garbage for our heat sinks. Gelid works better, but the best tranfer is using Conductonaut and Kryonaut. With Mastergel maker Nano in a close third.
Kryonaut is about 4-5C higher than Conductonaut, Mastergel is another 2 C apart.
Also i prefer Conductonaut over CLU now, sure CLU is not as runny, but CLU would have this weird Oxidation / etching on the surface that would only go away with sanding. None of that stuff with conductonaut. It just wipes off easily using Isopropyl.

 

Thanks for the confirmation regarding Coollaboratory Copper.

 

@bloodhawk
It wasn't lapped, but now it is. I tried both. It didn't really make much difference there.

 

Gotcha. Yeah, then its the bracket lottery now lol.

 

@Meaker@Sager

So when following your thermal pad guide and addition of IC diamond compound, my base temp on the GPU went from 54 to 31. I went ahead and used IC diamond on the CPU as well as replacing the thin thermal pad on that heatsink, and my base CPU temps went from 48 to 36. Thanks for all your help!

 

For this one, did you just replace and add in the additional pads? How did you make it stick to the copper heatsink?

 

Anyone to help me on this? Any improvements that I can make to improve this?

They did replace my paste with IC Diamond. Now I am sourcing TG Kryonaut to change and the TG Pads to repad the pads that are install. Is this enough to help me lower down the temps?

My idling temps are at

CPU: 52 deg C
GPU 1: 60 deg C
GPU 2: 58 deg C

 

Decent pads should stick, but if you have issues then carefully place them on the cards instead.

 

Am I doing it right guys?






Also @Meaker@Sager - the stock blue spongey thermal pads don't have a lot of pressure against the vrm chips :|

 

maybe this >> https://www.tonymacx86.com/threads/...00k-intel-z170-nvidia-980m-4k-display.178065/

I will try installing on a spare ssd when time comes .. nice logo so..

 

no driver for pascal mac