*** Official Clevo P870DM2/P870DM3 (Sager NP9873/NP9872) Owner's Lounge! - The Phoenix 2 is here! **

No no. This is abnormal for me. When I got this PC, the temps were within 2-3c of each other. Now there is 9-14c differences between my master and slave. Something is off; the slave card is getting normal temps but the master isn't, so contact must be broken (maybe paste pumped out, or something to that effect). I checked some single GPU scenarios where I had screenshots and even single card, low-temp maximum (for example, Overwatch main menu) is at least 7c higher than normal. Considering how overpowered the cooling is for single GPU with the vapor chamber on this machine, a 7c delta where before it was under 60c and now it's 66c is a huge jump. So take my slave card as an example, let's say. I played for a while, I got 73c maximum on the slave. This means that on average in-game at 200% res unlocked FPS maxed game (local fog on low, because it LITERALLY does nothing visually but is a huge performance hit) the game was getting 200fps+ and I should be in the mid 70s, maybe maxing near 80c on a 30c+, high humidity day.

If your GPUs are hitting 90c all the time, then I'd say something is wrong.

 

when your pad layout and heatsink qc is so bad that icd pumps out

feelsbadman

 

If you get it just right you can get it so that liquid metal works on the GPUs

 

wow, i thought that my GPU temps are high - but its max 79 after 8 hours of witcher 3 - which is demanding on GPU. @jarner using CLLU on gpu is bit risky,IC diamond do the job also can u tell us what kind of heatsync u have there, is it T-shaped? like this one?

 

Yes, you have to be really careful with liquid metal. You also have to be careful when raising clocks and power limits.

 

Here's my heatsink.


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I think your tech support is not taking my concern seriously. After telling him about the issue of my GPU running at 90C at full load even under 16C ambient temperature at max fans and the fans starting to decrease their speed once it reaches 90C even if I set it at max fans, his response to me seems a little off.
He only told me to raise my unit to about quarter of an inch or better yet, after telling him that I have a cooling pad, he actually asked if the cooling pad is pushing air into the air intakes (which of course, is the sole purpose of the cooling pad).


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It's not a silly question, in that some cooling pads are pretty poorly designed, I would lie it on a flat surface and use bottle cap sized objects to lift the back feet.

Re-test like this and it provides a nice neutral base line to look at.

 

I gave him the specific cooling pad that I used and believe me, the CM SF-17 is capable of pushing air into the intake. Also, I don't get why he does not address my fan problems as well.

 

Ok, so I checked my heatsink today. Seems the paste dried the hell out. I have repasted the machine (no repad yet, but now I can get stock temps properly and I'll repad and use shim on CPU etc soon).

My primary card is now within 2c of my slave, as it was when I got the machine. I played about 10 minutes of OW, 1080p 200% res (so 4K basically) with no FPS limit and the game maxed excepting SMAA low (which is what you should be using if you're running multi-GPU in the game).

My temperatures basically levelled off and I took the screenshot below for you. While I did get very hot, and my GPUs were TDP limited (sat in the 1750-1792MHz range basically the entire time) at 4K, I still didn't hit 90c on any component. This is without repadding the system or using a shim for the CPU, which everyone here echoes that it helps greatly. Also, my room is 33c at the time of me testing, and I am not using a cooling pad. Just max fans.


If you're easily and regularly hitting 90c, I would check your paste job or something. I'm pretty certain my place is a good deal hotter than yours, and ambients make a very big difference on things.

 

Exactly!!

CM SF-17 is a JOKE. Almost no airflow from the single weak 180mm 5v usb fan will go into the bottom ventilation grills. See pict


See also the review of the CM SF-17 Notebook Cooler


I would rather spend my hard earned money on a Mod U3 Or just use bottle caps.

 

I have a U3. What fans do you use to replace the original one?

 

3x EK-Furious Vardar FF5-120 (3000rpm). Aka buy some fans with high static pressure and high airflow.

 

icd dries out

420/69 qc

 

Honestly it may or may not have been me putting it on improperly the first time I removed it, we'll see how it goes in the future.

 

Okay. Done my repad for all the thermal pads based on @Mobius 1 and @Meaker@Sager suggested pad placements. And also did the tape of the gap between the fan and heatsink.

Through 3d Mark and Heaven benchmarks, there doesn't seem to be any improvement on the max temp. Though i can physically feel more hot air is being directed out of the vents.

There are no temps during gaming yet as i am a bit busy. Will try to get some readings this weekend after i am a bit free.

PS: I used Arctic Cooling pads for 0.5,1.0 and 1.5mm. All other thickness was sourced from Stores in China.

 

Is clevo ever going to release a control center version that fixes the back LCD light controls with support for Kaby Lake? The version that is in the driver thread is still the same one after months of waiting....

 

Have you run any extended stress test?

Use obsidian tools

 

Back then we worked on this directly with Clevo R&D and they fixed it in CCC v5.0001.1.15+

 

Okay I'll have to use the obsidian tool and grab it. Still getting BSODs and after debugging the crash dump the Clevo Hotkey manager is killing it.


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AIDA64? Ill try to run it this weekend. Going to be a hectic week for me.

Any other stress test to recommend? I know Furmark is no good as it only stresses the primary card.

 

Game like overwatch

Hit @D2 Ultima up here or on the discord channel (link in sig)

 

Sigh. It didn't work.

After 2 hours of playing Dawn of War 3, on 4K resolution, the temperature still hit max temp of 91C and 84C for master and slave GPU.

 

Greeting all.
I am lurking for long time now and I would like to share my findings here.
I have Evoc from hidevolution i7 6700k, single GTX 1080 with vapor chamber, qhd 120hz.
My CPU was hitting upper 90c on some games and long sessions in WOW and OCCT.
Some people in previous posts said about copper shims for better contact with CPU for cooler and i was going to do this method, but one of the members posted about bitspower HIS so i went with it.
Well this was my first time to delid a CPU and the result is awesome!
Applied the HIS with CLU and used Glied extreme between the cooler and CPU. Testet with same session before the application and now max on all cores were lower 80.
Now i OCed to 4.2 and -150mv the heat is same.
So i recommend that HIS (skylake version since its a bit thicker) if you are looking for some solution. i think it could be lower with patse between cpu cores and his i believe it will make better contact in there.

Thanks for all who shared the information and kindly accept my contribution.

 

Need help from the experts here. NP9873-S with a single 1070 ordered direct from Sager. Never removed the back cover or pulled heatsinks before. Been seeing temps under load creep upward by 5+ deg C since the machine was new (using semi-daily since November 2016). By all means, a novice when it comes to laptop cooling design. I've skimmed around in this thread but I'm hoping some of the experiences users can save me the attempt at covering 900 pages. So... Where to go from here? I could re-paste the GPU but what's the deal with whatever paste/pad-substitute they used (the gunk half stuck to the sink and the board components)? I'm not opposed to buying a better heatsink, paste, pads etc. just need some guidance. Thanks in advance for any advice out there!

 

Yeah that looks like poor quality stuff.
You can use a pad guide like this, and some better thermal paste like Thermal Grizzly Kryonaut / Gelid GC Extreme - (This is courtesy of @Prema)

 

I have the same Rig from Eurocom, I ordered it with a single GTX1070, I have the Grid cooler now but mine came with the "T" shaped dual fan cooler. I'd get some better pads like @bloodhawk said and order the Grid or the "T" shaped cooler.

 

Yeah the T Shape will keep the 1070 much cooler than this current one. Best part with these Clevo pascal cards is that all cards can use the same heat sinks IIRC.

 

Appreciate the input guys! Definitely going to source some better pads and new paste. Only stuff I found in my stash was arctic silver so.. time to put an order together.

Regarding the different heat sinks. Any tips on where to get more info and order the T or grid sinks from? I saw a reference to the HIDevoluion one a few pages back but wasn't sure on compatibility to the 1070 specifically or single GPU arrangement in general.

 

Contact HID they'll set you up with whatever you want. I used then to purchase the Grid and I'm going to purchase the KM1 from them once the @Prema bios is ready. Theyre great to deal with.

 

@bloodhawk @Mr. Fox I'm going to be swapping out my IHS for the Bitspower Skylake model. Do I need a.5 mm pad for the connection between the top of the cpu and gpu bridge or could I use IC Diamond for that? I don't have any thermal pads. And I hear that usually rips when removed.
Thanks

 

Im using a 0.5mm pad. Havent tried thermal paste there.
Im sure every one else is using 0.5mm pad as well.

 

Thanks @bloodhawk, I've got to get an order in. Might as well change them all to the better pads.

 

That much paste is going to cause a mess

 

Another update from me.
That is after stressing the system for 2 hours plus whilst room temp of 23 deg C with U3 cooler blowing under the laptop. And I am still getting 90 deg C and 84 deg C whilst playing a game.
Any other ideas before I throw in the towel and accept this as normal for the system?

 

I did think of that. It's definitely not the cleanest way to take care of it.

 

Hey

I'm just getting back to Clevo and have a 870DM3-G on the way. Unfortunately, I've ordered from Avadirect, who is not a Prema Partner. I've searched but could not find info on other BIOS modders for the 870DM.

Any info is appreciated. Thanks.

 

Anyone with a 7700 and a 1080 w/ a 4k screen test the FFXIV Storm blood bench mark @ max settings ( Non sli ) I'm debating on upgrading to the system but wanna ensure I'll still be good @ 60fps minimum.

If you could post the result I'd be extremely grateful! Thanks!

 

I don t know if useful but i'll post here just for statistic purpose ^_^

I think 4k screen isn't needed tu run at 4k, only go to option, set max settings and then create a custom resolution.

here my result at 3840x2400 max settings with a 3920xm and 1060 6GB(mxm, stock clocks)

 

You can try running the demo in dsr

 

Thanks but I don't own the laptop, the intent is to have someone with the hardware I'm looking to purchase to test it.

Specs I'm looking at 1080, 7700k 4k screen, so hoping anyone here that has it can run the benchmark and tell me what they get.


I'm not interested in the other screens since the Gamut is below average for them ( which is horrible ) as well as the 1440p being a bad screen according to reviews not to mention the issues the screen supposedly has. So DSR isn't an option sadly.

 

Alright, here are the specs: 7700K, 1080 SLI, 4K Display, Windows 7:

1080 SLI MAX:



1080 Single MAX:



1080 Single High(Desktop):



1080 Single High(Desktop) w/+150/+200 OC:



You're going to need dual 1080s if you want constant 60fps @ 4K or single 1080 should be able to do high settings.

 

Most likely going to purchase the GTX 1080 SLI laptop in a week or so. I'm highly intrigued by the 1440p panel, but are the colors really that bad? Do they get any better when professionally calibrated? If yes, then is 120hz worth the sacrifice of 4K?

 

I'd never get a 4K screen on a laptop personally even if you paid me because you cannot see anything at the native resolution/100% DPI scaling, so you will have to use Windows DPI scaling of at least 200% and we all know how much Windows DPI scaling sucks, some apps adhere to it and show crisp / sharp text, buttons, etc, and others don't and would show you blurry text or misaligned buttons.

Secondly, once you experience the smoothness and fluidity of a 120hz panel with a 5ms response rate, you would never be content with 60hz as stuff like movies or games or even basic window animations would seem jerky. I'd sacrifice a bit of color accuracy for the smoothness of a 120hz panel any time of the day.

just my 2 cents worth

 

I wouldn't care about the DPI scaling since I do all my work on a separate MacBook; however, 120hz is extremely tempting lol

Is the 1440p display "retina?" I may be willing to sacrifice color accuracy as well after reviewing suggestions as long as I don't notice individual pixels.

 

at normal viewing angles, you won't notice the pixels, if you stick your face close to the screen, you will. Just settings your expectations right beofre you blame me

 

fixed, 125% is all u need for clarity, saying this from a 16" 4k screen, I could only see 200% if you're legally blind.
I agree on the 4k aspect of shouldn't be out yet though. Volta maybe.

Awesome thank you for that, thats exactly what I wanted to know. +rep

 

4K display is WAYYYYY better than the 2560x1440 120Hz display in terms of picture quality. I've owned both and compared them side by side. However, for gaming, the 120hz is very nice and going back to 60hz feels slow.

So at that point it depends on the person. If a 4K 120hz display is released with the same picture quality as the 4K 60hz AUO panel. I'll switch. Also the lines are noticeable for me in things like chrome and that's sitting at normal distance.

150% scaling on the 4K panel provides a good experience , but 125% is even better since there's no scaling issues, assuming you have good eyesight.

 

Sold my NP9862-S and the buyer said only the left speaker is working. I ran him through some basic troubleshooting but it does indeed seem like sound is only coming out of one speaker. Anybody know of common fixes or problems on these with this? Trying everything to prevent it from having to be returned or sent in for warranty.

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I would open it up to make sure the right speaker is plugged in.