*** Official Clevo P870DM2/P870DM3 (Sager NP9873/NP9872) Owner's Lounge! - The Phoenix 2 is here! **

@Meaker@Sager

Thanks, I'll do that.

I just hope that a Premas BIOS is possible; it's current BIOS splash screen is Sager as it was originally branded as Sager. So fingers crossed.

 

So I modded in some detachable watercooling using the same 6mm copper tube / 360mm rad setup that keeps the p370em's 1070s cool all day long while drawing 200W per gpu (for reference the stock heatsinks with a few mods and liquid metal could *just* keep it below thermal throttle at stock 115W)

<10C improvement at full load. Arctic silver thermal adhesive is utterly hopeless. The copper tube is contacting the exposed copper on top (err, bottom?) of the VC for at least 30cm, under load the tube never gets past warm no matter how burning hot the VC gets.

It does knock the fans down a notch in noise at idle (automatic profile), so I can use the 4k external monitor at 60hz without it annoying me. 40C idle on everything in 26C ambient today

Should have used solder... will redo it in the future. It deals with my only gripe with this unit, the fan noise, but I was expecting more


planning


extra help for VRMs



frame cutting needed here (minor reroute of the GPU aux power cables) also also around the edge to fit the big QDC


I sanded off the paint around the route so the adhesive was copper on copper.

 

Last I heard, XoticPC is not allowed to put the Prema mods on the Sager models. You'd have had to purchase from them, their Force line. So you are likely out of luck unless Prema gives you a BIOS directly.

 

They just replied. You are correct, they do not offer. But they also told me "The motherboard itself is not compatible with that CPU, it is impossible for a BIOS update to do anything about that.
I'm sorry but it is not possible on this model." @Meaker@Sager can u confirm that this is true? I thought I read some of the forum users with this Sager (NP9873-S) model being able to update.

 

Yeah, that's crap

 

Please do a complete guide including all materials and tools the you will be using.

 

pics uploaded to imgur for now

album link: https://imgur.com/a/TTyAJ




results at AUTO fans you can see where I turned the pump on about 1/3rd of the way along the hwinfo graph

Note the master GPU was temp throttling (90C limit in my modded vbios) on air only, which was stopped as the temps dropped.
While CPU temps dropped I think that's more due to less heat bleed from the 'grid' coming across rather than water/tube pulling it off from on top of the CPU heatpipes. CPU-load-only testing shows very little gain from having the pump on vs off, <3C at the moment at >85W load.

CPU benefits... underwhelming so far, that needs a bit more alignment and probably rubber stoppers against the bottom case since without something pushing against it, gravity is pulling the tube down and away from the CPU

Surface and keyboard temps are noticeably lower.

In practical use, I've noticed it's the difference between medium and max fans at Ultra 4K@58hz gsync on Crysis 3. Max fans on this thing is insane loud, like, you need noise cancelling headphones loud. This is mainly my goal here, useability: surface temps and noise.


Not sure a full guide is needed, it's pretty low tech and simple and I'm too impatient to vlog stuff while working on it.

• Bend copper tube into shape (pipe bender and tube cutter) - takes a long time to do properly
• Cut tube and solder on quick disconnects (rosin flux + solder paste + heat gun, I used Sn63Pb37 here)
• gently sand off black heatsink surface around the route (dremel/sandpaper approx 120grit) then wetsand that nice and flat (~400 grit)
• full disassembly to remove and cut the internal frame to fit the big quick disconnect (dremel)
• Prep heatsink surface with brasso (metal polish) & clean the residue from that off with isopropyl alcohol
• Arctic silver epoxy to attach
• I reused the same loop setup from my previous efforts: 360mm rad+6x quiet&cheap 120mm CM SI2 in push+pull+MCP655 on speed 2/5+250mL res + cheap PSU with atx switch board+10mm soft PVC tubing+dilute automotive green alloy coolant mix

Quick disconnects are 8mm phobya bulkheads in black nickel (I got them at a decent discount and are now discontinued off the aquatuning.de site I got them from but are similar to these: https://www.aquatuning.us/water-coo...release-connector-kit-13/10mm-bulkhead?c=6489 - took a long time to find the right ones!
The 8/10mm ones I got have no internal rubber o-rings so are soldered to the 6mm copper tube which fits almost flush inside with only minimal sanding required. A very nice tight fit. I removed the screw comp fitting for the internal part (upper right on this pic) where soldered to copper tube since its not needed and it fits more of the bulk of the QDC inside the case with less protrusion.

 

Consider the normal heat flow, it follows up from the contact point, follows the heat pipes to the fins and then leaves.

You are creating a secondary vapor flow loop in opposition to the normal flow which is why you don't see larger gains.

 

I've not heard of this 'opposing flow' concept before, I thought the liquid just flowed (in proportion to the amount of heat being transferred) along the wick from the coldspot/s towards the hotspot/s (and vapour in the opposite direction) regardless of where the temperature regions are along the surface of the heatpipe/vapour chamber? Can you provide a link or search term, I can't seem to find any further details on this phenomenon.

From how much play there is in that side of the tube when it's hanging down I still think the main issue is contact, and quality of attachment of the shims, especially the AS epoxy between the shims and the copper tube, it just doesn't look or feel right, it's brittle and flakes away as though there's too much hardener and not enough resin, even though I used all of both previously unopened tubes at once and mixed them thoroughly.

 

It's just from personal knowledge and a flowing system with limited fluid and how much heat is being dumped. Getting the slimmer KM series heatsink and crossing it over the GPU fin area might work better for your project.

 

Is it right?

https://www.reddit.com/r/intel/comments/828tmu/coffee_lake_i78700k_on_z270/

If true, 8700K work on Z170?

 

if it runs 8700k on z270, will it work in Z170 too?

 

Looks like it

http://forum.notebookreview.com/thr...gtx-1080-upgrade.814711/page-22#post-10711426

8700K on first gen (older) P870DM-G / Z170

 

Yes if you can mix the z270 then the z170 will work, they are virtually identical.

 

Anyone know of a safe way to remove one of the keys from the keyboard of these things? Feels like I'm gonna break it, but I probably have to clean my W key. If I hold it down for a while, it will continue holding itself after I let go for about 2-3 seconds. Only happens on that key.

 

Hmm, is this perhaps linked to the underwhelming temperature benefit from the addition of the 2nd CPU fan to the TM CPU heatsink? That 2nd 'floating' grille is attached halfway up the heatpipes?

 

I wonder how something like this would fare in a laptop like this one or with an 8700k.



Sent from my SM-G930W8 using Tapatalk

 

http://forum.notebookreview.com/thr...mal-pad-available-for-test-and-review.815439/

 

Thanks, I was thinking about upgrading to these if I got my next upgrade cycle.

I'll have to keep them under tabs.

Sent from my SM-G930W8 using Tapatalk

 

Tests are showing slightly worse than paste but stable so perhaps in a machine like an ASUS where you have to tear it down to the board and flip it out to get to the heatsinks it might be a no brainer. For a machine that's easy to service then it depends on the person being willing to service it every so often.

 

Now is that regular paste or LM paste? I'm quite mobile with my machines and my big worry is leakage.

Sent from my SM-G930W8 using Tapatalk

 

Enthusiast level paste. Kryonaut, nanogrease etc.

Linus' simple review test showed about one degree C behind IC Diamond for example.

It needs a good fitting heatsink. Its very thin and slippery. But, with nothing to oxidise or evaporate, longevity and cleanliness are giant upsides.

Also paste and liquid metal only move about the place if there's big gobs of it sitting inbetween big gaps on badly fitting heatsink surfaces. If you're worried there's foam dams or other ways to give a bit of surface protection

 

I need a Unlocked Bios for my P870Dm2. We're can help me?

 

Use regular paste or the pad then if you are concerned.

 

@bloodhawk hey i was wondering if you have any info on the thunderbolt 3 , as i am still trying to play with it for external gpu , not for gaming more so but just a extra horsepower as to a rendering helper , so far everything says just no e-gpu support , i am using dual gpu 1080 in the system it is a evoc p870dm3-g 3k screen lol , just wondering if i am missing a setting in the bois or something as well have the primo bios . @Prema @Donald@HIDevolution as i have talked to hid about tis and still cant wrap our heads around it as te machine per specs should handle this....any help ... or pointers for it all ...

 

Nope no idea whats up because on my system using stock TB3 firmware my TB3 HDK/Razer Core/Akitio Node all work fine and the GPU's get detected. How usable they are is a totally different story, since we arent really rich on PCIe lanes.
8 lanes each GPU -
4/2 lanes - NVME
And then TB3 needs another 4.

7700k only has 16 Lanes.

My point being, even if you do get it working, its a total waste.

 

The two GPUs get 8 each, the CPU has 20 total so the remaining 4 go to the chipset. That can then connect to lots of devices like usb, SATA disk drives, nvme drives and thunderbolt but the peak throughput for it all can't go past 4x gen 3 pci-e lanes worth.

 

What version Thunderbolt software are you using

 

16.1.47.2

 

I added some protection...


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Nice, how much did that run you?

 

Without shipping I think it ran about $220 USD if I'm not mistaken. Overall, good fit, I had to remove all the foam to the top and bottom and left two rows of cubes on the right side, and one row of cubes on the left (ez pick foam or whatever it is called).

Too bad I still can't take this on a plane, but at least I have good protection if I take it out of the house.

 

Looks like you're carrying the "football"

 

One of my customers said the same thing.


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so question is eurocom no more with @Prema bios??

 

https://premamod.com/partner/

 

http://forum.notebookreview.com/threads/clevo-overclockers-lounge.788975/page-1480#post-10654659

 

take that as a no , then how do the advertise unlocked bois??

 

Their's is a simple unlock, which exposes BIOS options. But no under the hood tweaks that truly unlock the power limits etc.

 

unlocked
and
unthrottled
are not the same

FWIU the throttling code is located in the EC firmware which is separate from the BIOS

If you know how to dump & flash BIOS it is a rather simple quick process to do, but is also a warranty-voiding exercise and not without risk (a recovery plan worked out beforehand is strongly advised)

 

The base options are fairly well suited to getting the most out of the normal power limits in terms of applying an undervolt and getting it stable and fast as possible at that limit.

 

Will upgrading my CPU to 7700k make a noticeable difference? I'm at a point I think I'll be selling my rig to build a desktop. I've been unsuccessful of reaching a stable 4.5+ OC on the 67k

 

It will gain a bit of frequency yes, it does still depend on the silicon lottery.

 

If any of you guys are interested I am selling my P-870DM3 on the Marketplace. Link Below


http://forum.notebookreview.com/thr...aming-laptop-w-2x-gtx-1080-4k-display.817459/

 

I ran about 4.7GHz on my 7700k and itnwas certainly not the best sample.

 

I think I had a good sample =/

5.0Ghz without any extra voltage

probably won't be as lucky next time

 

Quick question. Does anyone know if the Eurocom 780W psu is UL listed? I'm currently working abroad and left all the paperwork that came with it at home. Curious because my workplace is hassling me due to it not being listed on a sticker on the unit.

 

If it's not listed on the unit....

 

HIGHLY doubt it.

 

Dang, thanks anyway.