*** Official Clevo P870DM2/P870DM3 (Sager NP9873/NP9872) Owner's Lounge! - The Phoenix 2 is here! **

All the components would have to be the same height for that to work. Might not be easily doable. I've always needed to use multiple sizes due to this. They would have to make the heat sink different thicknesses in different places for that to work.

 

It would ruin Azors goal for their gaming laptops!! The new AW 17 R4 must be under target 30mm(29.9mm). No good advertising if this laptop would become whole 30.4mm thick. And it would be difficult to compete against other OEM's... Who can offer the thinnest 17-inch gaming laptop with 1080

 

Different height pads is fine, but shaving 0.5mm off all of them would be good.

 

So the 120Hz FHD TN AUO panel 5ms is not there ? Does it even exist ? iirc 25ms with 120Hz doesn't add any edge to make it run at real 120Hz, defeats the purpose rt ?

Also Alienware was advertising 4ms QHD,FHD GSync panels in the new refresh...I wish that FHD panel makes into Clevo refresh.

 

You can't really quote the response time of a display in a single number.

 

Yes stay away from it!!, go 4k or anything else other than B173HAN01.2.

Yes but realistically speaking whether its G2G response time or anything else, it looks total crap, a console gamer can even see the difference, the blur is just unacceptable even at 60hz (120hz seems worst in dark images) total deal breaker.

Any1 has an idea if getting one of these would work? (edp seems proper, donno about frame fitting tho im willing to mod) hope after another hope :/ : http://www.panelook.com/LP173WF2-TPB1_LG Display_17.3_LCM_overview_14168.html

 

It is funny, at one point everyone wanted an IPS display, now they all want to go back to TN.

I find the panel fine myself, it's not as fast as my TN based swift but that's a given.

 

We're still a bit off from having smooth 60 fps and we all try to find 120Hz.

My 860M doesn't even do smooth 60fps in most games


I personally couldn't care less for refresh rates, but having better colors is felt in any task you do, even browsing the internets..

For someone who doesn't game or who games on games that don't necessarily look better with more fps, I can say that it looks strange to see this fight for fps...

Anime won't run in more than 24fps without looking strange... only a few select games remain like neptunia series, that would use a higher frame rate...

 

Just a quick shoutout, anyone having issues with external displays on this laptop? On the NP8153 we are having an issue with the ACPI driver going nuts after you plug in an external display, just wondering if that is the same case here or not? Thanks!

What to look for:
http://forum.notebookreview.com/thr...s-owners-lounge.795090/page-188#post-10346117

Also are the latest nvidia drivers breaking gysnc on this laptop? they do on the NP8153. I have to stick with the clevo drivers for it to keep working.

 

Well, I have officially joined the DM3 family with the 3K screen. Thanks to @Donald@HIDevolution for the help. I hope to get a few years of service out of this monster (and it should pay for itself within a year's time). Now I have to hunt on Newegg for some new ram and TIM.

 

No latency problems showing up here.

 

What about gsync breaking?

 

Don't know, don't use it and haven't installed the latest drivers.

 

Tried to price out a DM3 on @Larry@LPC-Digital - website down?

 

New Clevo Control Center available (5.1.83) but you have to use the Asian Server as the other links are not yet updated...
I downloaded it over night (6kb/s) you can PM me for my upload.

 

^ doesn't know the difference between response time and refresh rate
I'm actually playing at 60hz since it's LESS BLURRY

 

12ms is more than acceptable, it's difficult to see the difference below since that mark. I would go 60hz 12ms IPS any day over crappy 120 Hz panel

 

The previous FHD 60hz screens seem to over clock to 100hz perfectly.
My P770DM is clocked to 96hz and is crisp and smooth. G-sync works beautifully and it doesn't drop frames.
I'm sure many of you have overlooked these screens. ..so why does 120hz screen sound so exciting at FHD?

 

What was the response time of the P870DM FHD 75hz?

Sent from my Nexus 6P using Tapatalk

 

Sorry maybe I missed but what is the issue with the 120hz panel?

 

How easy is it to access the 2.5" hard drive bays and the PCI-E/RAM slots under the keyboard on this model? Does the latter require removing the CPU heatsink assembly as it does on the P775DM3?

 

@saturnotaku - IIRC, the HDD bays are located 'underneath' some heat sinks, you actually access them from the side, so you don't have to remove any heat sinks. Also, memory is just underneath the KB or under the bottom panel (2 different banks).

Search for @Mr. Fox's tear-down of the Eurocom Sky X9E (P870DM) or @HTWingNut 's video review of the Sager NP9873 (Clevo P870DM3). The models have not changed that much in location to these areas, so either video should give you a good idea of how to access memory and HDD bays.

 

Like @jclausius referenced, @HTWingNut video:


At 13:35 he locates the HDD slots; at 14:15 he cracks open the keyboard.

 

To access the M.2 or second RAM slots, it's 9 screws for the cover and 1 to release the keyboard, then stick a dull pointy object through the hole to pop it out.

 

Most helpful, thanks. One other question. I'm sure the answer is yes, but is it possible to disable the top-cover lighting? If so, is it through the BIOS or the Clevo Control Center software?

 

I know the difference very well.

Just saying , you get less than 60 frames per second either way.

What matters is the result, we can overclock the display , but if it won't change colors faster than 25 ms at best, we get smeared frames ;_;

That was the point.

I play neptunia series, frames don't matter that much there. Same for most anime related things.

Screen tearing matters though . . .

 

From watching another @HTWingNut video (at around 9:39) you can control through Clevo Flexikey software, presume you can disable it.

 

You can disable it, but it will default to green cover light and blue keyboard backlight every boot until the software suite launches.

 

The hell Sager... Looks like thermal pad? I had to apply excessive force to remove the heatsink, entire laptop weight :/, tried with gpu hot after stress aswell, donno whats the deal with the thermal pads.
Replaced with CLU, ~7c temp drop so i dont think they used thermal pad due the heatsink imbalance issue (or smth i heard over this thread). Thankfully i had new thermal pads for memory.

My first CPU delid (swapped 6700k from a desktop which seems to OC at much lower voltage, so i gave it a shot):

I literally had -15c drop after this (@[email protected]), now running at [email protected] with power limit at 120 watts, which only occt/prime95 tends to break that barrier, dont think any other software/game would break it as much.

Also @Meaker@Sager , tried shorting the resistors, it worked well! tho had to revert (thankfully i used clu) due to power supply wattage and gpu boost kept going up ~1600mhz constant combined with CPU load, bottom power led flashes yellow in fast pattern following GPU crashes, gotta order another psu+adapter soon. Thanks for the trick, no purple smoke

@Georgel you're right, most good response rate displays have garbage colors, thankfully the screen has that advantage (colors) which seems convincing for non gaming purpose.

 

Can anyone upload a copy of the service manual? There was a link at one point but it was unreadable when I downloaded it.

 

I think the 120Hz with 25ms defeats the purpose causing the ghosting. So we need <8ms to get full 120Hz experience, I might be wrong but that's from what I read recently.
So from the Panel details posted by Prema

no panel at FHD has that response time except the QHD one because TN, Really an FHD with that response time would be sweet else getting a higher response time 75Hz GSync with less than 15ms would be good, but I don't think that option exists (There's this panel LP173WF4 SPD1 but says 60Hz now with GSync would it go upto 75Hz or not, have to check with Eurocom
EDIT : Doesn't matter It's also IPS)

EDIT 2 :
QHD seems the only option now... Waiting for those Alienwares curious about what panels they are sporting with those advertised ' 4ms GSync 120Hz at FHD and QHDs' . MSI (GT73VR) has this FHD 120Hz Chi Mei- N173HHE-G32 (CMN1747) with 50%Grey to 80%Grey at 25ms (that should not be there I guess, but still fast, Panelook doesn't have the data but It should be a TN) Black to White is at 6.8ms. So this should be the fastest FHD 120Hz panel for now & at 60Hz this is the fastest panel in P771ZM I guess -> Chi Mei N173HGE-L11. That LG-Philips 60Hz panel was since the ZM series, so there's nothing new with that..

 

Note there is a hole in the pcb near the cpu socket that is easier to use when you have removed the keyboard screw.

 

I was literally screaming this on my screen while watching @HTWingNut review of P870DM3 when he was poking the screw driver through the screw hole.

And I learned about this hole from his own video of P870DM.

 

Did you use the delidded CPU without IHS?

 

What's wrong with the 3k120 panel?

 

That was so tempting haha when I was doing my delid ...

 

Almost nothing, It's the best of the options. Hits the sweet spot for the people who want 4K/ high res & the ones who need proper scaling (for 17" tbh 4K is overkill & WinblowsX scaling sucks) / gaming / Work @ high refresh rate/resolution experience without sacrificing FPS with this new beastly hardware.

But as for me I'd go with FHD 120Hz fastest panel.

 

hhaha i wouldnt had these temps without ihs, needs heatsink base mounting modification for the heatsink to contact the die, with gallium on both sides, removing the ihs is pretty useless, steel has slow thermal transfer but not at the thickness of the ihs, copper and steel starts to differ at 2cm^3 afaik

 

The IHS is nickel plated copper IIRC.

 

can you show the resistor that you shorted to remove the power limit?

 

RS1 to RS3 (marked on pcb) two are next to the power connector. One is on the back and towards the top middle. They have some space around them and are easy to spot.


Modding these will of course kill any warranty.

 

@Mobius 1 @Meaker@Sager not sure if shorting them by a jumper or solder would be the best solution. A drop of CLU on the current shunt resistors should be enough to lower the resistance such that the power limit is removed.

Marked out RS1, RS2, and RS3

GTX 1080 front:


GTX 1080 back:

 

@Phoenix

Since you hate the keyboard a LOT, can you please take a few photos of it? Or do you have a few?

The reason I'm asking is because the Romanian reseller has another keyboard in images for P775 and P870 than those found on other resellers and different from the keyboard tested by notebookcheck.

Maybe they don't use the same keyboard for all Clevo laptopys ?

 

I would not short them as the desktop cards have protection for that and the mobile cards could too.

 

This is a serious stuff, is this procedure safe?, and what about the warranty? if it's working, why not the Clevo itself doing it? for me, I don't feel this is the right thing to do.

 

@montadayaty if you have to ask this question it isn't safe.

 

I'm crying myself to install a HDD in a P775, trying to find some gloves to protect the hdd and the other components from contact with skin oils to avoid a short circuit or any side effect..

Makes me wonder, maybe they installed those resistors on the GPU to make sure temps are not too high or maybe they are there to ensure protection against a voltage or energy spike.

 

The resistors are used to monitor the power draw of the card and enforce the programmed TDP limits. Messing with this is very aggressive overclocking and should be done only by experienced people who are willing to sacrifice the cards.

Messing with these will instantly void your warranty.

 

@Georgel using gloves isn't necessary. Just wash your hands, remove the battery from the laptop, and make sure you are grounded. You could just touch a computer case that is plugged into a grounded outlet while you work and that would be sufficient.

 

On desktop the short just removes the TDP limit.

But once you remove the TDP limit, card only has small wiggle room for more OC. At stock voltages (1.093v highest) it doesn't take more than 240w even for the heaviest of games.

The power limit for the reference is around 200-205w, other AIB might have more. My Zotac AMP 1080 seems to be held back by the voltage alone (1.093v/vREL) and not due to power throttling (likely Zotac set the power limit to 250w).



TL;DR -> shorting resistor does help, but only by a very small amount. The main challenge in the laptop is getting the cards to stay below 50c so it doesn't drop frequency bins.