*** Official Clevo P870KM1/P870KM1-G/Sager NP9876 Owner's Lounge! - Phoenix 3.0 ***

Great, I will check it out. Your results are similar to mine now. The results I posted up are earlier were 1440P. These are all of my mixed results:

These are some tests I have done. The first 4 did not have Nvidia Experience recording or working in the background. I thought this might change the final result.

Deus Ex: MD benchmarks:
1440P Exclusive full screen with everything maxed out, except for MSAA, which is off. Stock speeds on 7700K and stock speeds on 1080 GTX SLI unless stated otherwise. Using Nvidia drivers 388.59

DirectX 11 (Stock speeds at 1440P)
Average: 79.6 FPS
Minimum: 50.0 FPS
Maximum: 105.3 FPS

DirectX 11 (7700K@5GHz overclock, no GPU overclock at 1440P)
Average: 79.9 FPS
Minimum: 52.1 FPS
Maximum: 105.1 FPS

DirectX 12 (Stock speeds at 1440P)
Average: 74.6 FPS
Minimum: 55.6 FPS
Maximum: 111.7 FPS

DirectX 12 (7700K@5GHz, no GPU overclock at 1440P)
Average: 75.0 FPS
Minimum: 54.7 FPS
Maximum: 116.0 FPS

DirectX 12 (7700K@5GHz 1080 GTX SLI at 2100MHz overclocked with borderless option on and exclusive full screen off at 1440P)
Average: 75.2 FPS
Minimum: 53.9 FPS
Maximum: 93.8 FPS

DirectX 11 (Stock speeds on 7680x1440)
Average: 36.6 FPS
Minimum: 28.3 FPS
Maximum: 43.3 FPS

DirectX 12 (Stock speeds on 1080P)
Average: 98.5 FPS
Minimum: 80.6 FPS
Maximum: 120.2 FPS

 

Random question. In the oem.ini file for clevo control center there is a "supportgpuoverclock" option. Should I enable that if I want to ramp up the GPU?

 

Do it! and let us know

 

Read IMPORTANT SECURITY UPDATE!

 

Just fooled around with AIDA64 and the GPU overclocking feature. It seems to work with the default setting *supportgpuoc=0* .

 

Recently bought a new P870KM1-G barebones with a GTX 1080 and UHD screen. I fitted it out with a 6700K, 16GB Hyperx DDR4 2400 ram and a Samsung 512GB NVME drive. Installed Windows 10 Pro along with the latest Clevo drivers. Everything appeared fine until l opened the Nvidia control panel and found no sign of the G-Sync option.
Since then l have tried everything under the sun to get G-Sync working, I've updated the bios, re-flashed the vBIOS, re-installed Windows umpteen times, tried different Nvidia driver versions and l've always ran DDU before each installation, tried a different 1080 and another AUO B173ZAN01.0 panel.......still nothing.

Any ideas anyone?

 

Was the machine sold as being G-sync certified?

 

Yes and like l said It's brand new. The vendor and l spent until 1am Sunday morning trying different options using Whatsapp to communicate and take photos to show screenshots of each stage of trying different approaches to try and remedy the issue

 

Where was that other 1080 card from?

 

I bought it off a well known auction site from a member who'd got a feedback score in the hundreds and 100% feedback. Both cards work flawlessly apart from the fact that there's no G-Sync option displayed, yet both cards are G-Sync versions with a G-Sync vBIOS.

 

That's for enabling Clevo's CCC bundled GPU OCing software and not for enabling GPU OCing itself.

P870KM1 doesn't support g-sync when used with a Skylake CPU. You need to use a Kabylake CPU or the g-sync license won't activate.

 

Weird, I can still get it although its set to 0. It just doesn't turn on automatically.

 

It puts the app into the tray and CCC.

 

Ffs l new it’d be something simple....Guess I’ll just have to go and order a 7700K then. Thanks for the info.

 

Totally slipped my mind on that one, nice catch.

 

Any advice to remove stain left by liquid metal thermal paste on cpu heat sink? 3000 grit sand paper or https://www.turtlewax.com/our-products/renew-restore/turtle-wax-polishing-compound

 

Don't bother. You'll do more harm to cooling sanding it down. Remove any surface crust left over and reapply your compound of choice.

 

Leave it?

 

You CAN leave it... But that will drive me insane
I'd use Brasso then clean and purify the surface with Arctic Silver ArctiClean kit. This will get rid of the oils left over. I won't use sand paper though. But that's just me. Each to their own I guess...

 

Yup, leave it. If it bugs you, Arcticlean set gets off most anything in my experience, but there'll always be a "little" left. What I remember some saying is that this LM kind of filled in any tiny gaps and dried so it actually does more good than harm, but I can't be sure about it. Either way, it's good to go, don't break a leg getting rid of it.

 

I do find it funny people going insane over something that no one sees

 

Been a long time since owning a lappy. But grabbed a p870 with the 7700k and 1080 sli at a deal I couldn't refuse.
My question is, because I don't necessarily play games that require the sli ATM. Would removing the second card for the time being be better than just going in and disabling the 2nd card in device manager for lowering temperatures? I delidded the 7700k (clue on die and gelid on ihs to heatsink) and my temps are fairly decent. And repasted the gpus with gelid. Should I use icdiamond instead with those as well?

 

Hey guys, I'm in great need of your help, previously I made a new post on an issue I'm having, but sadly I only got one response and at the end couldn't figure out a way to fix my laptop. As the owner lounge suggest I have a Sager NP9876 with an Intel 7700k, and I have no idea what is happening, but every time I have my laptop plugged in and multitasking (like opening HoN, while listening to some YouTube and maybe a PDF or Word document open) I get a BSOD saying VIDEO_SCHEDULER_INTERNAL_ERROR and of course it reboots, using WhoCrashed did not shed much light since the logs only show Kernel-Power and different programs as it's source, I am really disappointed right now with how my laptop has performed since I expected it to be a monstrous powerhouse instead of a whiny...well you get the point.

 

Congratulations on you purchase.
Disabling SLI through Nvidia control Panel is good enough.

Depending on the lottery of your CPU heat sink. It would be best to replace the intel IHS lid with a Sky Lake BitsPower lid as the Sky Lake BitsPower lid is 1mm extra in height. This will fill in the gap between the CPU lid and the CPU heat sink. You will need to lap (sand down) the Sky Lake BitsPower lid flat, to make nice contact to the heatsink. If you don't want to exchange you IHS lid; then using IC-Diamond paste on the IHS will be very effective because it is a good gap filling thermal compound IMHO.

As for your GPU's, you could always use Kryonaut thermal grizzly paste (12.5K/mk) for a long lasting effect or use Phobya NanoGrease Extreme (16W/mk version) for a slightly better performance than the Kryonaut.

I don't know nothing about this problem, sorry... I bet that's driving you INSANE! It is best to wait for a reply from @Meaker@Sager maybe it's something that you can not see...

 

You have no idea, and a month ago I was having my finals and of course presenting a lot of projects, well it was hell

Hopefully someone can help me with this.

 

You can try this to see if it may help...
Taken from here
AMD forum Link


1. What you need to do is run an elevated command prompt (elevated means run it as administrator) and type SFC /SCANNOW. This will generate a statement indicating if errors were found the Operating system and if they were fixable.



2. Make sure you have installed Microsfot NetFramework and Visual C++ 2013. These should be installed already, but they can become damaged, need repairing or reinstalling.



3. Update Windows. Install all available critical, recommended and optional updates. Often Netframework and Visual C are included in the recommended or optional updates Windows provides. Windows should always be fully up to date before installing our drivers!



4. Use DDU to sweep the system of Nvidia drivers.



5. Install the latest Lastest Nvidia drivers once the above is completed.

 

Trial before putting liquid metal. Any recommendation guys. Also did anyone tried 1mm or 1.5mm on the VRAM. The .5mm seems not enough for the heatsink to touch the pad. At least in my case I can pull the pad circled on the image by using a clipper. Note that the plastic cover on one side of the pad is not yet remove.

 

If .5 is not enough, then your other pads may be of the wrong height.

 

This is where having a strip can help as you can see light indentations if it's making contact.

 

Thanks for the tips, but already did all of them, and the strange thing is that it does not happen at all when the machine is unplugged. I know that when using a single video card you only need one power brick, but my only guess at this point is that the system is missing amperage.

 

Do you have a bsod code with 116 in it?

 

No sir, not that I recall. Have to mention I bought this computer from Xotic like 4 months ago.

 

Did you try Xotic's tech support services? If it's only 4 months then it's still under warranty.

 

Would love to, but I live in South America, and my next semester is about to start, so I was trying to fix it on my own. Talked to a Xotic representative and told me the same thing though

 

If their walking through with you leads to that conclusion I don't think it can be avoided.

 

I guess your are right, I'll see what I can do to send it back then

 

Adjust the GPU voltage curve. Some cards can not handle the ASIC they where assigned.

 

Does anyone know a way to disable the keyboard and lid backlights permanently or at least without the entire Clevo hotkey driver and application. I hate having that pile of garbage run just so the lights turn off... Thanks!

 

Without modifying the firmware then no.

 

Pull the plugs. Small ribbon is for the lights on the keyboard. LID lights are in the backpanel.

 

Pardon me, but what is the ASIC? and how my GPU voltage curve should look like?

 

Wow, thanks Prema! I figured the lid would be easy enough to fix but I never thought to check the keyboard to see if it was a separate ribbon...

 

Asic quality is a way of splitting up the bell curve of chip quality to a number. Tests are run on a chip to figure out where it sits on the curve and voltage/frequency etc are applied accordingly.

 

Oh man, that is indeed interesting, my major is computer science, and although this problem has pissed me off, it also made me learn a lot of things. Will undervolt my card and see what happens, do you have any other advise? Thank for the info btw.

 

I don't know if the 1080s are voltage locked or if the work around needs to be in place for MSI afterburner to work.
But pressing Ctrl+f with afterburner open shows you the Voltage/curve table. I'm on my phone ATM so I cant help but so much right yet lol.

On a side note question. Does anyone happen to know why speed step in Throttle Stop kills the max CPU frequency ? If I click start speedstep as soon as Throttle stop starts. My CPU drops to a Max of 3.8
And for me to regain my 4.5mhz I have to uncheck it and reboot. I was just wondering as I was making profiles for Gaming,Work etc in Throttle stop. And having speed step would be neat as I don't require much cpu resources for the work side-equating to 3.8ghz and a voltage of 0.9893. Which still runs Warframe phenomenally. Lol. But still bets me good battery life if needed.
**Edit**
Found the throttle stop guide here on the forum. Looks like it is working how it's supposed to.

 

Is there anyway of getting a 8700k to work on this z270 mobo? Bios flash? Hope and Prayer? Lol and is it possible to donate or purchase or help fund Prema for a bios?

 

Most likely no, due to the different pin layout.

 

Typically if a chip is not matching the stock profile I would be speaking to my reseller about a return.

 

I thought the PIN difference was just for power delivery? Lol oh well
Now if I can find someone who will sell me a z370 mobo to fit in this lappy

 

buy an upgrade kit from eurocom if they have one, dont think its out yet but they mentioned they were planning it. upgrade would need a mobo, cpu heatsink, GPU heatsink only if you're using vapor chamber, oh and bottom chassis (not bottom cover) unless you dont mind the extra radiator on cpu heatsink is blocked.