*** Official Clevo P870KM1/P870KM1-G/Sager NP9876 Owner's Lounge! - Phoenix 3.0 ***

Thanks man !!
Also.. does anyone have a proper shimming guide ? Or know for sure what size shim for CPU is needed for bad contact ? I went to order the bitspower ihs from ppcs and they are out of stock. But I have a butt ton of the small copper shims in hand right now. I'm thinking 4-6 of these tiny shims would fit on top of the CPU ihs . Any help is super greatly appreciated

 

If you end up buying a BitsPower lid, then make sure you purchase the BitsPower Sky Lake version (not the Kaby lake) because the Skylake version is 1mm thicker in height. Just make sure you lap the lid with sand paper so you will have good contact to your CPU heat sink. Check out more of Mr.Foxs videos on his YouTube channel. He certainly knows his stuff.

 

I don't think you need to modify the heatsink with the Sky lake lid though IIRC.

 

Sweet!!! Thanks guys !!
I ordered the solder paste and two 42mm shims, should be a bit better than using a few 15mmX15mm shims lol

 

Yes, you are correct. I should have stated that on my last post. Sorry.

 

where you ordered them, link plx!

 

I got them from Amazon.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0195V1QEI/ref=ya_aw_od_pi?ie=UTF8&psc=1

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0081S91CQ

Had some amazon credit left over from stuffs so I said what the hell . Let's try it lol

 

Just be careful not to damage the heat pipes, don't apply the heat for any longer than needed.

 

I have the infared thermometer, and some heat probes (somewhere on the probes lol). Just as soon as I get home from work tonight I will be giving this a shot. HOPEFULLY getting out on time today.

 

Wellp...
Same order, same shipping method. Same delivery company.. shims were delivered.. soldering paste was held due to weather delay.. both items we're together this morning at 730am lol
Soooo... No testing this out tonight guys..

 

Were they both from the same source location?

 

It's all good man. The solder came in today woohoo. But have to wait until Saturday to get to try everything out.

 

Good luck

 

Deleted

 

Well.. I guess I'll test this a different way. Does anyone have a 7700k with the shimmed heatsink done via the solder paste ? My inner nerd got the best of me and began doing research. Got my father in on it and with him being a machinist for 30+ years, we collaborated.
Upon some research this week, we have found that this paste does ALOT better when used in a vacuum. If it weren't so late I'd post the links , testing done , etc. Have also asked questions in other places of the web to find this out.
With that being said. Tomorrow, we are planning on doing the shim and solder pasting. BUT we are going to set the shim and paste in place then pull a vacuum on it to remove whatever air is within the paste out. If all goes well according to what we found. This would "supposedly double" the thermal conductivity of said soldering paste.
Hence my Reason of wanting something to compare this to- someone with a shimmed solderpasted heatsink and 7700k to post some temp numbers if at all possible. If this
Goes well, I also plan on picking up another heatsink from somewhere and trying resistance soldering and pulling a vacuum to see what happens. Resistance soldering would cut down on the heat applied to the area of heatpipes .

 

Sorry I can not help you here. I don't have the heat sink shim mod, as I am using the BitsPower Sky Lake lapped lid instead.

I understand what you mean about the vacuum effect. I love to a see someone try this with results. So keep us posted please.

Also I'd love someone to try to create a bareback CPU heat sink. A heat sink with a (roughly) 20mmx20mm 4mm+ shim welded on to the CPU heat sink. The heat sink (with 4mm+ shim in place) then connects directly to the de-lidded CPU die without using the IHS lid. Because the CPU wont have a lid in place, the CPU will have to be held down with the CPU clamp using two 1mm small shims on both sides of the clamp so that the CPU can make contact to the LGA pins. This solution "might" provide lower temps because there is no IHS lid involved... But like said; I don't think anyone has tried this yet on the P870 series heat sinks. This will make a great experiment.

 

@Stress Tech
If I can get my hands on Two of the Heatsinks I will try this.
So what your wanting to do is naked die ? Woohoo . Damn I forgot about trying that. Good idea . Let me make it through this experiment and get my hands on a few more Heatsinks. And I'll try it !!! I'll order a die mate to hold the CPU in place . When I find the one I'm looking for I'll post the the link to it.

 

What paste are we wanting to test? Gelid or ic diamond? That's the only two I have large quantities of. Lol
UPDATED !!



NOT pretty yet. But turned out super gap free.
Doesn't take much paste this way either. And in the process of cleaning up the excess.

 

Better to have a little much and do some sanding rather than too little and have gaps that's for sure

 

I agree ^^^
Was not hard at all to clean up. Actually used a Dremel to cut the chunk and polished the rest away.
Where can I buy two-three more of these Heatsinks? I have a resistance soldering machine coming and will be able to able to silver solder these shims on with damn near pinpoint accuracy and with less heat on the Heatsink . Woohoo
Lol we have figured some other things out that may help us all out with this. I'll be posting more here soon as the testing continues

 

Talk to your reseller, they should be able to source parts.

 

I would prefer to umm.. get them from somewhere else lol.

 

Then contact an alternative local reseller and see what they say.

 

Why am I just now finding out about the paper clip mod ?!?!?!?

 

For anyone whom has done the Liquid metal on the gpus. I aquired some foam like shown by Mr.Fox in his video . How much "tossing" around can ones laptop take before lm decides to plop out? I'm not rough on mine by any means . But it is carried in a Titan bag, and taken out and put back in A LOT during the week. And not really thrown around. But moved alot I guess would better description. I know that Clu is alot tackier than Conductonaut. And have a bunch of both. And will be using the CLU on the gpus.
Just kind of wanting to hear some thoughts before doing this lol.
Plan--
Lap the shim that's installed on the CPU heatsink. Just to measure temps for the gits and shiggles.- apply Scott +33 electrical tape to area surrounding die of gpus. Creating foam dam to go around gpus.
And btw. For anyone doing cpu delids. Scott +33 tape as a damper on the CPU after all of Intel's black adhesive removed helps in some cases from keeping the ihs pushing extra hard against the substrate and PCB of the CPU and allowing corners to bend upwards due to Skylake and kabys thin pcb.
Tested this on a dozen or so different 7700ks I've delidded for people. And have seen it happen lol. I'm not saying it was bad . I'm not saying that pins stopped touching. But given that it did in fact raise corners over a short period of time did bother me enough to find a damping solution that can handle the heat.

 

Depends on the application of liquid metal and the exact fit of your heatsink. So you can't really guess.

 

Well, hopefully the foam will stop it. Going to try it tonight lol

Edit... Scratch all that... One of my damn 1080s just died while I was running Vsphere... So I didn't get to test the liquid metal.
If I pull the master card out and put it the slave card on the masters spot. Leaving the master card out. The machine will boot. But.. the problem card is also the card that I found to have plastic backing on the thermal pads when I took it apart the first time..

 

Ouch dude, since you have not done any liquid metal application yet I would have it looked under warranty (unless you have done anything else)

 

Nothing has been done other than the shim on the CPU heatsink.
Something told me I should have emailed support when I found the plastic backing on the thermal pads on that card.. and the wrong size pads..
Already got everything in place for return. And another one being sent out by Wednesday. Wouldn't bother me so bad. But I have never even gotten to use SLI on the laptop yet lol.

 

Just make sure you have Kapton tape in place with your foam barriers and only use the most thinnest layer of liquid metal. Not like the photos that are shown below. This was only done for experimental purposes.

I have experimented with the liquid metal on the GPU's while using the foam barrier technique many times. These are my "before & after" shots on (a hell of a lot of ) Grizzly liquid metal being applied on my 1080 GTX GPU's on purposely. This is after 3 months of hard use. The laptop has been in my Titan bag while I was biking on rough terrain 4 miles a day 6 days a week for 3 months. And sometimes; I have finished some hard gaming and I have placed my laptop back in my Titan bag and set off riding to work, while the laptop was still hot. This is the after math:

*BEFORE* New low density (high temp proof) foam barrier with loads of liquid metal applied on purposely. Please take note; that there is Kapton tape underneath the foam barrier:


*AFTER* After 3 months of crazy travel and long gaming, there is no leaks and the GPU's are still working fine:


My new CPU foam barrier with Kapton tape :



My new GPU foam barriers with Kapton tape in place:

 

Just remember to take off all the plastic from the thermal pads! It's easy to miss one

 

16 isn't a miss LOL

 

Lol they have been removed 100%
I take the protective plastic off on the last minute just before re-attaching the heat sink. Just in case any fine dust or dirt gets caught on the pads surface.

 

I was talking about the 16 that were still on my 1080 with the plastic still on them lol.i have good faith in you good sir lol

 

There was one case of a machine coming back in the PNB days without any thermal compound on it from the factory (I won't name names on that one but it was not sager )

 

Well as of tomorrow. I guess I'll be leaving the KM1-G side of Clevo and heading to the TM1-G side of it lol. Still going to be testing this shim resistance soldering in a vacuum deal. Gotten some pretty good numbers with the 7700k so far.

 

Upgrade time 8700k then too I am guessing?

 

Yep yep indeed.
Just anxious to see how this CPU does in Warframe. And how the build quality of this one is compared to the Km1 I'm sending back. Lol
Hoping the shim works as good on it as it did with the 7700k. And hopefully I actually get to try the SLI out on this one. Just a few more hours LOL

 

As of today upgrade kits for all of P870DM/DM2/DM3/KM1 models to P870TM1 (Coffee Lake) are available.
Our P870TM1-G Ultimate Upgrade Kit includes the following:
1/ Top Case
2/ Bottom case
3/ Motherboard middle frame
4/ Motherboard (without CPU)
5/ LCD Assembly Module (without LCD panel) but with a cable matching your LCD panel) or you can order new hiigher res LCD at extra charge.
6/ CPU heatsink
7/ GPU heatsink that matches your current GPUs (you would need to update VBIOS to TM1)
8/ Unocked BIOS installed
9/ There is no battery and AC Adapter included, so you can use them from your current system.
If there is anything missing in this let our Team know so we can update.

 

Hello, Dears Eurocom.
What is the cost for this Upgrade Kit? And what is the procedure to get it? - B. Regards

 

You're selling a package but want to check with the community in case you forgot something?

What kind of discount are you going to offer the forum for such a service?

 

Well ain't this some crap. Lol
I have a question.. why take away a heatpipe from the GPU and give the CPU a extra. BUT.. also adding a small fin stack on the CPU heatpipes. But nothing that moves air through it? Lol

 

There is incidental airflow from the other fans, the heatpipes do not carry the heat primarily on the GPUs it's the vapor chamber, the heatpipes mostly act as guides due to the slightly odd path it takes.

CPU gets an extra pipe to help carry away the heat.

 

Gotcha gotcha .

 

Sometimes if something makes you scratch your head there is usually a reason. The GS30 I have has got holes in the fan shroud just before the heatsink. This is so that air escapes and circulates around the metal base plate, this allows the plate to remain cool on the lap when the CPU works harder.

 

I cant find any option on you website of such upgrade kits tho?
Link please, also is there any kit availabel for p775dm3g?
What would be the cost?

 

I did notice how this one has the fan built in to the CPU heatsink. I'm wondering if it's possible to find another small fan to help blow through that fin stack. There are mounting holes there for something. And what looks to be an empty fan header

 

Check Sunon small fans. This video doesn't do the UB5U3-700 fan any good justice. Not a good test...
but still; you can see the size of the fan and some noise it produces. You may want to check out slightly bigger Sunon fans.

 

you interested in upgrading it?

3 different fans coming, all from china. one is a few business days away from arriving. check out my sig.. i'll let u guys know how much it really helps with temp, my guess is not much because they are weak fans.

edit: checked sunon's website, their mini fan size is 1.7CM * 1.7CM and 3mm, couldnt find one thats 3*3. the extra fins measured can fit up to 5.5CM * 5CM * 6mm. pretty sure the fans @Papusan found is the best one.

 

Probably not as my real world performance would see no benefit for quite a large investment.