*** Official Clevo P870KM1/P870KM1-G/Sager NP9876 Owner's Lounge! - Phoenix 3.0 ***

Really appreciate your efforts in this regards, I have the frame already, I'll start the Mod project once I have all information needed. I'll appreciate if you share some information about how to solder the VC to the CPU heatsink and with what tools. Please PM me if you feel this is a repeated info.

The most important thing is what temps do you have after Direct Die cooling, is it worth it?

 

temps improved quite a bit if you can make good contact. 10c upwards 15c if everything goes well, mine was a crappy contact and still dropped by 10c with a ton of LM which means poor contact.

mr. fox's video explains everything.



clamp down and heat it up and using solder paste in between them. I can't find the links to where the solder paste is now but they should be pretty common if you search them on google.

just make sure you get at least 2-3 clamps. 1-2 for VC, 1 for extra radiator on the 870tm to prevent it from falling off main heatsink.

 

Hello all,
I just received my GTX 1080 from a reballing work but I'm getting a black screen now instead of a garbled working screen.
look at these pics.
there is a component off... could this make the entire board to fail?
Thanks

 

That part does looked to have slipped from the heat, a mutli meter would tell you if it's not connected (measure pad and part for continuity and matching value).

 

As mentioned above, measure with a multimeter. Did you take it to a professional repair shop?

 

Well not sure where to put the multi-meter.. I did it on the part and it did give continuity.
the place I send it look legit. with good review. not to many option here in Brazil.
I will be sending them the laptop barebone so they can check the card.
Might not be the Chip, could it be memory? at this point I don't have much option. ;(

 

The resistance should match the one mentioned here
http://forum.notebookreview.com/thr...-needed-clevo-p775tm1-g.832337/#post-11000066

 

I will pass on this pic to the tech guy there..
Thanks a lot

 

Good luck, hope you get it fixed.

 

Thanks..
I'm glad it's not my main go to system, otherwise I will be pulling my hair..

 

Yes it's a lot easier to cope with delays when you still have a system that's for sure, even just a spare one like I have.

 

Did you go through with the mod?

 

Not yet, I have almost everything, but soldering the copper to the CPU heatsink delayed my plan. I hope that there is no need to add more copper like I did in my Desktop, it's only about modifying the height of the x-bracket from the back of the motherboard using the included parts.

 

The soldering is a fine process with the vapor chamber, be sure to also keep a clamp on the VRM radiator, as it can come lose under the heat as @ole!!! told me.

 

I hope that I can find someone can help me with the soldering and I'll pay for the heatsink, shipping and any other expenses.

 

@ole!!! or @Mr. Fox would be the right men to ask for that, as I modded the vapor chamber with liquid metal to the TM1 heatsink without soldering.

 

If you satisfied with the result, please let me know how you did that,

 

Actually I was just talking about it in a different thread over here:
http://forum.notebookreview.com/thr...-9900k-high-temperature-problem.830729/page-5

Gallery of the mod and links to are here
https://imgur.com/a/pH5ki1e

 

Great job, would you please tell me where I can buy the VC?

 

https://www.quick-cool-shop.de/ or ask @ole!!! , I think he made a bulk order, perhaps he wouldn't mind selling couple of them?

VC 56x56x3
https://www.quick-cool-shop.de/heatdiffuser/heatdiffuser-quadratisch/heat-diffuser-quadratisch.html

 

normally i wouldn't mind, i'd like to have less contact outside atm (shipping the item etc) even if situation isnt getting worse. just not worth the problem that comes with it and i'd put strain on myself and my family.

if you're not in a hurry we can revisit in a few weeks time and see if situation improves.

 

No mod is worth a risk to your health or family health after all, stay safe

 

What foam is everyone using around there cpu and going for the dam to keep out any leaks and how does on e make it stick


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

No barriers for me but I'd not recommend it

 

Six months passed since my last visit here, wow time flies and real life stuff hits hard.

Anyway: swap 1080 SLI for 2080 single. Yay or nay?
Got gear change/upgrade itch once again

 

I went to the hardware store and found foam that was compressible enough and pliable enough to work. Turned out to be foam insulation that is meant to be installed around an AC unit. I cut it really thin (2mm thick). I put a couple of coats of nail polish to insulate the SMD components on the GPU packages. After they dried I put one more coat and waited until it was tacky. Once tacky, I stuck the foam to it. After about 8months of usage I repasted with Conductonaut yesterday. Really glad I used the foam as it indeed trapped some Conductonaut that had spilled out previously.

 

Depends on if the games you play support SLI or not. I'm sticking with the 1080's because 90% of the games I play support SLI and the few that don't run well enough on a single 1080 for me.

 

I agree, depends on your use case and needs, SLI support is in a fair amount of games. Single card would be better if you play something like Warzone.

 

If you play mainly new games, it's worth ditching SLI for a single faster card. Newer AAA games favor the Turing architecture, and SLI is effectively dead.

 

Even on a lot of older games too to be fair.

 

If Cyberpunk supports SLI, it might be a good reason to keep the dual 1080s.

 

I'm cautiously optimistic about this one. CDPR's past track record with SLI indicates there's a very high chance it will support SLI, but also the fact that the game will be DX12 means I'm not as optimistic as I should be. The only DX12 game I'm aware of that natively supports SLI is Tomb Raider . . . are there others?

 

Depends on the use of temporal based effects (that rely on data on the previous frame)

 

You're probably gonna want an RTX card for the ray tracing and DLSS anyway, given that CP2077 seems poised to be ray tracing's next killer app in the AAA space after Control.

 

For that you'll probably be best off with a next gen one.

 

Investing in a 2080S for the P870 has me kinda split on the matter. It's a price premium card, with some performance uplift but on the other hand, the 30x0 MXM should be a much more meaningful upgrade down the line.

 

Cost for return is pretty low.

 

I would be repurposing the GTX1080 for the P775. Then likely powermodding the 2080S to push the extra performance. I'll have to wait and see on the pricing, but it's something that I considered.

 

If you need a card now sure but it seems pretty clear the next gen is a big step forward.

 

I'll have to wait and see. But I do hope they keep the MXM 3.x formfactor and the power connector for RTX30x0.

 

@ Meaker@Sager
Hey there, I was having a problem with my NP9876's webcam, it used to work when I first got it, but I never had to use it. Now forward a couple of years and I had to use it and to my surprise, it isn't working. I wanted to know if it's not just me and several computers showed the same problem. It just keeps turning on and off rapidly while showing code 0xA00F4289 <Active Camera Unpluggled> (0xC00D3EA2).
Also, I can't access your website for the drivers. I had to buy a license from Obsidian for the automatic updater.
When I first ordered the laptop, I sent it to my friend in the US, and then he sent it to me in Egypt. Anyways I used to access the website normally, but I tried it now and I can't access it even though I used "isitdownorjustme" and it shows that it's working. Weird stuff I would be glad if you could help.

 

Same thing happened to me recently when I needed to use my webcam due to work from home. As fas as I can tell, it’s the webcam wire that got damaged from repeated opening/closing of the laptop hinge. I ended up buying an external webcam as it was too cumbersome to fix the internal webcam.

 

You can open the bezel to check for a loose cable.

 

Did you try fixing it? I mean like disassembling the bezel and check the cable like mentioned? I'm willing to try my luck if there's a chance it might actually work. The 1080p built-in camera was good and more than enough for meetings, it would be very inconvenient to move around with an external camera since I'm using this laptop as my work PC going to sites and client meetings.

 

I did remove the screen bezel to check the wire, but did not attempt to fix it as I couldn’t find any noticeable physical damage, and replacing the wire would have required a lot of disassembly to remove the upper deck.

 

I kind of hoped it's as simple as snapping a wire back into its place... Too bad it's a matter of replacing the wiring since I can't easily get the parts here.
Thanks a lot for the feedback.

 

Depends on your issue Worth checking as yours could be different.

 

Hello jc_denton,
Unfortunately they could not do more to get it fixed... ;(
my guess is that they might not be the right people to do this job.
What do you think, is it worth it to send the card to the US for testing?
and where? or just buy a new card?
for me I would fly to the US and get it and maybe a newer system but with this covid and a mandatory 15 day quarantine from Brasil
make not viable...
Any suggestion?
Thanks a lot..

 

It's tricky to say, how does it look physically?

 

As far as I know, physically the card look fine, when I start the notebook there is black, can't see the bios screen, but the chip in the card get warm.
I can upload pictures..
Thanks