So you're saying that on idle your CPU Package Power is 0.1W ?
My bios is 1.07.11. Maybe update and load defaults will do.
Are your fans ever completely silent / dead? Especially on battery?
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Meaker@Sager Company Representative
8x should be your idle multiplier.
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Optimus was the first Nvidia iteration of memory copying hybrid graphics that was implemented on Windows 7.
At some point, Microsoft integrated that technology directly into the Windows 8 kernel so it could be handled natively with an API ("System.Fundamentals.Graphics.HybridGraphics.MultiGPU").
At this point in time, even Nvidia use MSHybrid and Optimus interchangeably.
On Linux, it is still referred to as Optimus within the Nvidia Binary drivers. -
Meaker@Sager Company Representative
As above, basically the same thing
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hmm, why do people bother about the battery life on a gaming laptop? I would always use it plugged in.
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The only time I care is I'm not even playing a game and just want to browse the internet or something while sitting back on the couch. I usually get about 2.5 hours, which is perfectly fine for that imo.
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Meaker@Sager Company Representative
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Just because it's a "gaming" laptop doesn't mean it is gaming 100% of the time. My PB51 spends 90% of it's time at a daily work machine with linux terminals, VMs etc.
It's also important to be mindful of the fact that Optimus/MSHybrid applies across the entire NV range. While it's definitely less useful in a monster 4KG RTX2080/i9 rig, it's massively helpful in smaller laptops with things like the 1650MQ/1660MQ. -
Meaker@Sager Company Representative
If it's a switchable option I always appreciate optimus.
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TheUberMedic Notebook Evangelist
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TheUberMedic Notebook Evangelist
Project Aurora support anyone?
Massive thanks to DrMeteor for getting this working. I supplied him with the api and he got it working (mostly, still needs some tweaks)
https://imgur.com/a/OoHX1HB -
First time hearing about Project Aurora. Is it basically just like custom lighting profiles for different games?
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TheUberMedic Notebook Evangelist
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You mind sharing when it's in a finalized state? Sounds like he's still tweaking it from what you said. I'd love to try that.
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TheUberMedic Notebook Evangelist
Also, the Control Centre can be left open so the FN keys still work! You can still make the keys brighter or dimmer, turn the entire backlight off or individual sections. Opening the keyboard settings in the control centre while aurora is open doesn't affect the lighting either.Last edited: Dec 9, 2019Ashlander likes this. -
TheUberMedic Notebook Evangelist
Update on Project Aurora support, I've made the keyboard layout to support the lighting accurately. Mathematically correct as well
. Just waiting on DrMeteor to fix the last couple of mapping issues. If anyone knows how to recompile DLL files, I could do it myself but I have zero clue how to recompile multiple .cs files into a single DLL.
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Install this and see if your battery life doubles.
LAN Driver Version 10.35.510.2019
Also note that when AC is connected, C2 is max.
OPTIMUS OFF = C7
OPTIMUS ON = C8
Last edited: Jan 25, 2020 -
TheUberMedic Notebook Evangelist
Sent from my LM-V500N using Tapatalk -
On mine that's how it worked. If I uninstall the driver, the state gets locked again and the wattage rises.
Maybe also try updating these two:
HID Driver Version 2.2.1.377
IRST Driver Version 17.5.2.1024 -
Picked up the PB51RF-G from Eurocom just a little over a week ago. I tried installing the Samsung 970 EVO SSD, but found locking it back in with the bracket to be an awkward fit that wouldn't screw down, so the SSD is in place right now sans bracket. Less secure, but seems to work fine.
There seems to be a weird defect with my keyboard.
When the backlighting is set to off or 0, a certain number of keys have a permanent red backlight to them. The RGB still works for them, though I notice the red manages to stay on while other colors are in effect (e.g., if the keys are set to blue, the affected keys will show a slight purple). I attempted to troubleshoot this by disconnecting the keyboard ribbons for the LED, and reinserting them, but the exact same keys remain affected.
You can see the issue here: https://imgur.com/a/J0cgvlC
It's not worth it to me to make a return based on this defect, but I'm curious to know what might be causing this and if there's a fix. -
Meaker@Sager Company Representative
The fit with the ssd should be perfect, do you have pictures?
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Also, @Meaker@Sager what happened to the PB51RF with the 244hz panel. Nobody, including Sager has it listed anymore. Just the 4k OLED and PB71s. -
Meaker@Sager Company Representative
No idea personally, likely down to supply of the panel otherwise.
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Meaker@Sager Company Representative
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Just picked up a Powerspec 1520, the stock thermal paste job is a complete joke, was getting thermal throttling and thermal shutdowns while gaming, CPU temperature was hitting the 90c+ while gaming even with a -.120v undervolt (I can't go above -.120v without crashing unfortunately, although others have been able to get as much as -.180v).
I just repasted with thermal grizzly kryonaut and my temps are not going above 75c while gaming with no undervolting, an almost 20c drop which is a pretty scathing indictment of the crap that microcenter used as thermal paste.
On that note, I've heard that a lot of people are able to get memory over 3Ghz, are you guys overclocking in the BIOS or via the Intel XTU? -
Just started looking at those since the 8453 is MIA, only thing I'm wishing they had was the fingerprint scanner. Since Windows 10 perfected it, I use it exclusively to login to my machine (NP9150). Other than that missing option, I think I could make the Powerspec work. Although, how hard would it be to remove the branding? I hate branding and had my current Sager stripped clean when I bought it. -
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Meaker@Sager Company Representative
Thunderbolt 3 is mainly for those intending to dock their machine.
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Last edited: Jan 1, 2020
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I wonder how good one of those 3m matte filters would work on an 8454? Anyone had any experience with that?
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Meaker@Sager Company Representative
Ashlander likes this. -
Doing an OS reinstall on a new SSD. Is the Speed Shift driver recommended or no? I never installed it on the old OS and it still seemed to work fine in TS.
EDIT: PS, can't recommend the Sabrent SSDs enough -
Meaker@Sager Company Representative
Having the latest driver will ensure the CPU can turbo up and down as fast as possible.
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What thickness thermal pads are used? Unfortunately I don't have caliper now, and pads are seems not 1mm nor 1.5mm. Also, are there any hidden screws in cooling system?
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I havent been able to figure out the size, but there arn't any hidden screws. It's all pretty straight forward. The only thing is there may be two screws for the bottom panel beneath the keyboard, so it'll have to be popped off to get at them. Not all units came with those screws installed.
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Meaker@Sager Company Representative
If it seems between 1mm and 1.5mm then it will need a squishy 1.5mm pad.
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Joining the club!
https://i.imgur.com/3GOe2Hm.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/gWyoqOE.jpg
PS. For all those whose 9750H is locked at 4GHz frequency, I've got a solution! If you're still having problems with that, let me know.
Clevo PB50RF / Hasee (神舟) God of War Z7-CT7PK
Nvidia RTX 2070 GDDR6 8G (Clevo/Kapok)
Intel i7 9750H 2.6/4.5GHz 8 cores/16 threads
16G 2666MHz DDR4 RAM
144Hz 72% IPS 1080p Display
256G NVMe M.2 SSD/1T 7200rpm HDD
Thermal Grizzly Kryonaut & Gelid Extreme cooling solutions -
Meaker@Sager Company Representative
Did you barrier for the liquid metal or are you used to the stuff?
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I just repasted again, but my GPU is still at 85/86 and hitting the thermal limit most of the time while gaming. -
Room temperature is always around 20 degrees celsius
There's a cooling pad under the laptop with 1x 120mm and 4x 10mm fans
Laptop fans are set to 100% during all tests
Internal heatsink has been screwed down with 90-95% of maximum mounting pressure (quite, quite tight)
Now that that has been said, let's move onto numbers:
- GPU (core @ 2100MHz, mem +600) 30-35 idle, 60~ gaming, 60-65 stress test (hasn't passed the 65 degrees limit since I repasted it a week ago)
https://i.imgur.com/rTNuk3k.png
- CPU (tweaked for perm pl2, i.e. 60w) 30-35 idle, 60~ gaming, 65-70 stress test
https://i.imgur.com/Rr6sNUw.jpg
As far as thermal pad thickness goes, I've mostly used 1mm shore 35 hardness (color coded yellow on the photo). I've only used a tiny bit of 1.5mm pad (color coded red).
https://i.imgur.com/LQjSh3V.jpg
The reasons you're getting such high temperatures might be because your thermal pads are too thick causing CPU & GPU dies to not make proper contact with the copper heatsink and/or your heatsink mounting pressure is low. The heatsink inside is an absolute beast (assuming we have the same one). Change pads to thinner ones, screw that thing on tight enough and post your temperature difference.Last edited: Jan 30, 2020 -
Meaker@Sager Company Representative
Once fit is sorted on my vapor chamber heatsink liquid metal took off another 12c under the highest thermal stress so if you ever need more then that's available.
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I plan to build a super high end custom watercooled PC somewhere around summer using all the best stuff (3080ti or navi 21/23 and 10900k or 4900x), so I'm gonna save my effort for that. -
Meaker@Sager Company Representative
It's the daily driver so that's understandable, enjoy
Johnny93bg likes this. -
TheUberMedic Notebook Evangelist
Protip if you care about battery life!
Use Edge browser if you want the best battery life. I was using Firefox and I get 30 to 1hr more battery if I used Edge instead.
Sent from my LM-V500N using TapatalkJohnny93bg likes this. -
Meaker@Sager Company Representative
Worth checking your firefox extensions in case there is something greedy.
Johnny93bg likes this.
*** Official Clevo PB5xExx(-G) Owner's Lounge ***
Discussion in 'Sager/Clevo Reviews & Owners' Lounges' started by sicily428, Jan 7, 2019.