*** Official Clevo Sager NP9155 / P750TM-G / P751TM-G Owner's Lounge! ***

Looks fine.

For being able to add the subwoofer first you have to solder all missing SMD components including the APA2607.
The subwoofer I made it fully custom and installed it onto a SSD drive. Here are some pictures of the process
https://imgur.com/a/hmaEQFR

 

Cutting a hole anywhere is opening a window, you WILL reduce pressure and flow elsewhere inside the chassis.

 

Great job. But never mind all that lol! I’ll use external speakers. I was thinking plug and play minor modification to chassis.

 

Thanks. Clevo engineers could put that subwoofer in the 15 inch model as well, don't know why sacrificing such an important detail.

 

Yea I wish I had it. I’m using some cheap external speakers. But I run them with my laptop speakers to. So I’m using all 4.

 

I'm assuming you're using Wartapes for BF:V with this setup?

 

The 15 inch is pretty cramped to be fair, something else would likely need to get more expensive or cut.

 

Just for the record, and if anyone is wondering. If you have a Clevo P750TM1 or a P775 you can push some impressive overclocks if you put in a little effort.

I can run 5Ghz on all 6/12 on my 8086K with (0) AVX offset and Max temps coming in at 82C while playing Battlefield V. This was a difficult task as BFV will push temps and demand higher than any stress test I’ve tested. Running no GPU load runs temps at around 68-72C in something like R15. This is no longer a benchmarking frequency or having fun frequency. This is a 24/7 frequency now.

How cool is that!

a 8086K at 5Ghz (0) AVX offset 24/7 stable!

 

The 8086k does offer a lot over a regular 8700k in these machines.

 

Finally got 5Ghz stable with (0) AVX offset. These little machines are monsters. This is a 24/7 overclock that is 100% stable. First run is with HWinfo in the background, 2nd run is without to reflect slightly higher score.

 

@Meaker@Sager Anyway you could pretty please possibly help me out with some of those soft white OEM thermal pads for my Sager 9155 or it’s a 9156? I’m not sure the exact model. I’d greatly appreciate it.

Whatever it takes to make it happen. Cost, or +shipping cost too.

Thank you so much

 

u might want to consider the blue arctic thermal pads rated at 6W/mK, theyre cheap and soft enough to be very handy in all sorts of situations

Sent from my Huawei Mate 20 X EVR-AL00 using Tapatalk

 

As mentioned there are some good options, I'll add thermal grizzly. But if you like contact sales and they should be able to assist.

 

So I’ve managed to get full power out of my GTX1080 again. It runs at 1,898-1,911 at 0.925V. I added some paper clips underneath the retention arms. And I noticed lower temps immediately. Not quite as good as my last configuration I was running on the “GPU with 78C Max with OEM pads and LM” but it hits 83C Max after hours of heavy load currently with paperclip mod..

I ran out of thermal gel, and LM again. And I just cannot remove the heatsink again. So the paperclip mod certainly works.

I could only run my games after changing to gelid pads at 0.781MV undervolt 1,721Mhz 86-88C haha.

 

0.5mm fitment can cause 12c differences in temperatures.

 

Ok so I finally got around to putting pch cooling pads on this thing (I know it’s been almost two months but this is about the only time I can afford to have this laptop down for any amount of time) and unfortunately putting it back together I must of got the ribbon cable for the power switch and stuff plugged in just wrong and I burnt the cable trying to power on the computer, was wondering if y’all know of a replacement cable (I mean it’s just a standard twelve pin ribbon cable?) I would love a whole set that’s a lot longer then the standard ones so you could actually flip open the keyboard cover with all the cables attached (you can do that on my other laptop, so much nicer then trying to plug in and unplug the cables with the keyboard two inches above them)


-Jon

 

Oh man, I always order a pack or two extra when doing mods.

 

Oh I nearly forgot I took pictures

 

You ain’t lying bud. I always run out of stuff. I love liquid metal, I always over do it with soaking it in to copper and all the usual copper surfaces and I use it all up lol.

Ive currently got LM on my cpu lid, and cpu die under lid, and on my heatsink too. I couldn’t even sand out the old LM from the heatsink. So I just applied more. It works great on the cpu in place of thermal paste.

 

Your reseller should be able to get parts or our sales team.

 

They really should include thermal pads spec used in the manual or something, would make it a lot easier to buy replacements yourself. Instead of hopping through hoops.

 

hey man, you might want to have a looksie here:

http://forum.notebookreview.com/thr...onal-need-info-on-replacement-options.830266/

cheers

Sent from my Huawei Mate 20 X EVR-AL00 using Tapatalk

 

Hey guys I noticed that If I run on just battery, I can actually game at High FPS. This P750TM1-G does not cap to 30 FPS. I’ve managed about 1.5 hours of gaming on just the battery alone. And I’m getting High FPS around 60+

My last Aorus X7 V7 would instantly lock 30FPS

 

There are different performance limit modes in the nvidia panel.

 

I know but I could never get more than 30fps out of my last laptop regardless of performance settings.

 

That sounds like Battery Boost (an FPS limiter inside GeForce Experience).

 

I would recommend this to anyone with one of these laptops. They’re flathead, pan head, stainless steel screws for the GPU.

I was reaching 83C after paperclip mod at 1,898Mhz with 0.925V. With the factory Phillips screws that strip very easily. I was limited on tightening pressure that I could apply.


I could finally tighten firm with the flat heads so I could really squeeze down these gelid pads and get them puppies snug!

Now I’m down to 77C at 1,898Mhz 0.925V.

If I drop my memory overclock to +0 temps are around 71C. Memory overclock increases temps drastically.

I know my laptop, and I could see a difference immediately.

 

What size did you get?

 

2x4mm. I ordered #100 of them. The bottom panel screws fit cpu retention bracket holes, and they do not strip as easily so the stock screws are fine.

 

I can’t find exactly such screws, could you share the link?

 

It's interesting that increasing the memory clock has that much of an thermal impact, I would've expected a slightly higher power consumption from that.

 

it is interesting! Seems almost impossible that +685 on just the memory can do so much, and I cannot figure out why it has such a huge impact. I am running the absolute maximum. +685 actually runs 5,692MHZ. And +700 will crash a game.

Have you tried it though? I know in the past I noticed slightly higher temps with memory overclocking, at most 1C if that.. And nothing this consistent though.

I can repeat this over and over in BFV

 

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B007NLCKJS/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

 

Will depend if it allows the core to ramp up due to the extra data to process. Still seems a bit high.

 

I haven't tested whether power consumption goes up, my card reports around 20w usage at 2088/1500mhz in Time Spy due to the power mod. So I would have to look at the temperature in stead.

 

Or just use a kill-a-watt or UPS.

 

I couldn’t imagine another 180Mhz consistent MHz on top of my current GPU boost clock speed. I’m guessing the only way to get over 2,000Mhz GPU boost on a GTX1080 is with a P870TM1 chassis.

Your GTX1080 is pulling some serious wattage.

So what about going higher wattage? Like 275? Maybe running 2.1Ghz? Or a little more? Have you tried it?

 

This would be a good way to calculate what wattage it pulls, as you can monitor hwinfo64 for the cpu and get close to it.

Even with the stock bios it can spike to 214W or more. Problem is the temperature, as card will clock down if you can't keep it cool.

 

I wish I could cool mine down. I’m battling the GPU boost 3.0. I can hold 1,924 for about 30 minutes. Then 1,911 for 45 minutes maybe an hour. And I’ll hold 1,898 for eternity. Do you have a shim in your P870 VC?

The P870TM1 barebones on eBay for $1,299 look like a good deal to me. Besides 17.3” LCD panel what other parts do I need? Bottom panel? Bezel? Anything else?

 

No shim for the vapor chamber in the p870, it fits like a glove

The p750tm1 heatsink would benefit from increased surface area on the heatsink, fins etc. As majority of the surface is flat copper that has a tough time getting rid of the heat. But for best case scenario the added surface area would need airflow to excel. Such as a small 5v fan (usb/sata power mod)

 

Shunt nodded mine ran happily at 2ghz in SLI, they were voltage limited rather than temperature limited.

 

Hey guys, I'm back.
I have an audio issue since my laptop came back from RMA..
I only have the Realtek S/PDIF as my main audio source, which is odd to me.
The other audio jacks don't output any sound at all and the only one working (S/PDIF) as a ton of glitches and crackling sounds even if I turn off the volume completely, which makes me feel like it could be hardware related. There is like static sounds and white noise combined, and it never stops which is really unpleasant.

I've been trying installing some Realtek drivers, also looking for drivers for Soundblaster X Pro gaming (which is what the Clevo chassis advertises as "tuned by") but nothing seems to be working so far, I don't have any other primary audio source to choose from.
Going into the device manager and trying to install a realtek driver manually automatically crashes the computer with a blue screen related to this file : RTKVHD64.sys

I'm not sure what to do here.
I bought this laptop to make a crazy lot of music on it, and the audio port sounds like garbage full of circuit boards.
If you know what to do, I'd appreciate you helping out !

Thanks

 

The audio board is a separate PCB, sounds like its maybe not been plugged in correctly with the repair or similar.

 

Is Clevo Control Center installed?

 

Could be like Meaker mentioned, that they either forgot to plug in the ribbon cables or plugged the wrong ones. This seems sloppy, you just sent it in for RMA and it comes back without audio.

 

It is really weird.
I downloaded some more drivers yesterday and the white noise seems to have disappeared.
Weird thing is, when I put my cellphone near the audio jack, I can hear a lot of static noise, I'm not sure what it could be related to - maybe wifi ?
I use my cellphone in 4G USB to have better speeds since my local wifi network is crap.
What I don't really understand is that I never plugged my headphone in a S/PDIF jack to listen to music. I believe S/PDIF is reserved for other things ? This output has a red LED inside of it.
Line in and Line out don't output any sounds at all.

I've sent an e-mail to PCS to inform them about this issue.
Tbh if they ****ed this up again, I'll send it back and get my money back, I'm starting to be tired of all of this.

EDIT : white noise is still present on some websites for some reason..
and yes, Clevo control center is installed and active.

EDIT 2 : when I plug in my USB dongle for my wireless mouse near the S/PDIF port, I can hear every move from my mouse in the form of glitches and scratches, it's so horrible.
I wish I could record this to show PCS.

EDIT 3 : All right, last edit here. I think the USB 2.0 near the S/PDIF port is causing all this glitching and white noise issues. When I plug the USB dongle inside the USB 2.0 ports, I have a lot of horrible sounds. But when I plug it into the USB 3.0 next to the USB 2.0, nothing happens. So the issue might come from this USB 2.0 port.

 

I'm just trying to remember if that port is on the audio PCB.

 

Interesting that port causes interference

 

Did you use LM to shunt mod?

 

Yes I did though I had to re-attach the shunts after a while.