*** Official Clevo Sager NP9155 / P750TM-G / P751TM-G Owner's Lounge! ***

You would update your video drivers from Nvidia.com

 

If you run LTSC don't get them from nvidia, as their site pushes dch drivers which come w/o the control panel. Which then has to be downloaded through the Wndows Store.

 

I did not have to with mine.

 

Interesting. Here's where I usually get the drivers,
https://www.nvidia.com/Download/index.aspx

>geforce 1080 series (notebook)
>windows 10 x64
>Driver: GDR

and it forwards you to
https://www.nvidia.com/content/Driv...ernational-dch-whql.exe&lang=us&type=geforcem

Notice it's a DCH driver, this happens both when selecting either 1080 notebook or desktop. I've noticed this only began happening a few months ago, usually the drivers were fine.

 

Either use NVCleanstall v1.5.0 or remove the DCH text in the link.
1. Right click the link adress and paste it in new window.
2) Delete dch as shown.
3) Click the new link. And you'll get the standalone driver.

 

I got non-dch drivers from a 3rd party site and trimmed it down with nv-slimmer. But you see how they're trying to push the DCH crap down your throat without choice, it's not cool.

 

Yeah, they are trying. But as I say, you have still choices And for those with desire for DCH drivers, you can use custom Nvidia Control panel (No need to go to the Scam Store).

 

Yup, but for a layman it's kinda of raw deal. But it pays to stay vigilant against this BS.

 

Hello, I am new here, I just got a EUROCOM SKY X4C couple of days ago.
It has a 8086K with GTX 1070.
The BIOS American Megatrends Inc. 1.05.13, 09/07/2018.
My question here is will I be able upgrade the 1070 to a 2070 as listed here?
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Clevo-P775...eady-Mxm-Graphic-Card-Gpu-Nvidia/264648167201
Do I need a BIOS update?
Will the heatsink fits?

Thanks in advance.

 

It needs updated BIOS and heatsink.

 

You'll need to get the new unified heatsink for the 2070, or do some modifications to your current one, in order for it to fit the new card.

 

Thanks for your reply.
Just asked the seller, he said they do have a heatsink that will fit.

 

Don't forget that it needs a BIOS update as mentioned earlier.

 

I already submitted a service request to Eurocom, but so far they haven't respond yet.

 

With current world events it might take some time. In the meantime you could always do some overclocking to the 1070 and see how much you can squeeze out of it.

 

Thanks for the video, probably gonna try it out.

 

Good luck, be sure to let us know how it goes.

 

Oh, NV clean install is awesome!! Wish I knew about that earlier. I wonder if I gotta delete some old NVIDIA bloat now. Didn't even know they had telemetry. Everything's updated now (I guess), but still not sure where exactly to find the FPS cap settings. IMO 24FPS would be fine? Like TV? I've never noticed FPS unless I was watching Charlie Chaplin.



Another question,

is it possible to program keylights? I'm learning AutoHotKey and wondering if I could make certain lights trigger to tell me the state of a certain script, for example.

I also wonder if I could make my keyboard become some kind of Macro... like I never ever use capslock, so could I just make it a macro key somehow?

 

I think there might have been a project about something similar on here, you might be able to find it in search.

 

Ya, over 200 pages now!! I've been searching through for info about cooling as well. I always thought it'd be awesome if a cooler could somehow attach itself to the heatsink.

Like, some kind of cooler that works particularly well with this machine (though I guess that doesn't exist, and I should just look for the quietest general laptop fan).

 

I thought HID evolution had already undervolted my CPU, but maybe when I installed these drivers (I never used command centre before) it undid that?

How do I know the ideal undervolt? I feel like my machine is always running hot; you see in the picture my temps are pretty high and I'm not gaming etc.

Should I just undervolt until things start crashing?

 

There is no one fit all sort of setting, all silicon is different. Try undervolting in increments until you find instability, then add 5-10mV and see if it holds. I'd start off with -50mV and go from there, either lower or higher.

 

Yes every single chip is different, you are finding where on the bell curve it actually was.

 

ok, so that's all HID Evolution did, right? I'm not going to 'wreck' their perfect configuration by tweaking it myself?

and if the system becomes unstable, I just raise it again, and I won't break anything? I'm at -107mV right now and everything seems fine, so I'll just keep going lower and lower?

I just decreased to -125mV, and the setting is 'adaptive'... should I detick 'adaptive'?

 

With undervolting, you might cause windows to be unstable. But it's an easy fix, just add more vcore, lol. You should try and see how far you can push the undervolt, since chips are different and running a cooler chip is a win in my book.

Keep settings at adaptive and test with either CBR15/R20 or loop 3dmark physics for 15min, if it should crash at any point, reduce the undervolt by 5-10mV and try again.

 

You want that buffer as stability in every load is hard to test for and as chips age they will need slightly higher volts.

 

Also keep an eye on the BSOD code, usually they hint at what needs tuning.

 

You mean if I get a crash, which code shows up?

For some reason, my undervolt keeps resetting when I restart my computer...


Also, if I use a wireless keyboard (like bluetooth), can I use the flexikey software to program the built-in keyboard as all macros, without that affecting the external keyboard?

And... are there any external keyboards that will feel like this laptop's keyboard? I honestly love the feel, and don't like mechanical keys. I need lowest profile possible.

 

XTU settings can reset on reboot, BIOS settings should not.

 

Curious if one day my old laptop may show up in here with a new owner. I had countless hours of enjoyment with that machine.

 

Possibly, you never know.

 

It'll be easy to spot with the high heels you put on it, lol.

 

So for convenience I'll keep undervolting in the software 'till I've gone too far, then do the BIOS undervolt I guess.

I'm at -128mV and no crashes.

 

That's it, XTU for testing, BIOS for setting long term.

 

Does anyone has advice on how to run the memory clock at 3200Mhz stable? RAM placement (under keyboard, or near CPU), voltages, etc.?
I have this kit, if I set the XMP1 profile it boots properly and even runs memtest86 without errors. But playing Apex Legends is impossible, the machine throws "GPU hang errors", sometimes it recovers, others it just freezes :|

 

Did you clear nvram before setting the XMP? Sometimes prepopulated data can mess with it. So I would either fn+d or pull the battery and do a full cmos reset, then at first boot set XMP. After trained and passed, set your OC etc.

 

Just made a cmos reset but set the ram to 2666 :|
Will try to do it at the end of the day, thanks

Any other settings to be messed with? AC loadline, System Agent voltages, VCCSA/VCCIO?

One of the things I currently hate on my P751TM1, is that I have a ton of BIOS settings available, but I don't know what should I set them to....

EDIT: Also, what are the best memory slots? Under the keyboard or near the CPU? (maybe @Meaker@Sager can help here )

 

Two slots under the bottom cover are the master slots. Running slots 1+4 can sometimes result in better OC ie, slot 1 under the kb and slot 4 under the bottom cover.

 

Or 2 + 3, it's worth experimenting.

 

Yes, exactly. Just remember to clear nvram each time you make such a change.

 

But won't you lose dual-channel that way?

 

No, dual channel also work with these setups;

DIMM 1 + DIMM 2
DIMM 3 + DIMM 4

DIMM 1 + DIMM 4
DIMM 2 + DIMM 3

 

As above, no reason you can't mix A or B dimms on each channel.

 

It worked

Slot 1 and Slot 4, 3200Mhz, running stable... for now

 

Nice, glad it worked. 3200Mhz is a sweetspot speed for timings/voltage/performance/price

 

Yeah the traces won't allow much more without a lot of effort.

 

Not only that, it's also luck of the draw for the quality of traces themselves.

 

Alright, I'm come to you all for assistance.
I have a Sager version of this fine piece of computing power.
8086k @ 4.4 on all cores with a -190mv applied, only hitting 89 degrees in the heaviest of benchmarks. About 80 in RDR2
1070 - Thermal throttles on anything more then a idle at stock settings. Afterburner has it down to 743mv @1580mhz. It's stable and is sub 85 in games now but any benchmark is still too warm to be comfortable.
2x16gb 3200mhz at 18-18-18-43 @1.2v - I feel this could be tightened but I wanna tackle the thermal issues first

Now, I have a thermal pads left. They're 1.5mm and sitting next to a tube of Arctic MX-4. Should I dive in with that to try and solve the thermals, is there better paste I can order? Different pads needed? I'm not comfortable trying liquid metal just yet, and I do carry this machine to and from work so I really don't know if it'd be safe anyway.

My goal is to get the GPU running cooler and hopefully squeeze a few 100 more mhz out of it if possible. And maybe get the CPU up to 4.7ghz. Without liquid metal or delidding the CPU, do you guys think it's doable?

I already broke the CMOS battery connector dealing with getting the ram reading right. Anything special to know about the heatsink and pasting process? Any sneaky screws or cheap plastic clips? Not really thrilled to dive in after I was sure I destroyed it with the battery clip shattering on me

 

Fn+1 keys toggle max fans, if you do not mind the noise. Did you lock the volt/frequency curve in Afterburner by pressing L on the desired clocks?

Spoiler

I would tackle your thermals first, before jumping into memory tuning, deep rabbit hole that one. If you can test your machine with max fans to see how the temperatures are, if they are still high, it might be due to poor contact or radiators/fans being gunked up with dust. If you can take some pictures of the heatsink and such, it's easier to judge and can give a better perspective for overall contact, if you plan on repasting it anyway.

For thermalpads, the rule of thumb is, the thinner the better. As you might need to stack them to fill some parts, so it's good practice to get some 0.5mm and 1mm pads. Gelid makes 12W/mK thermalpads that are relatively squishy and a good value/performance. Arctic is a cheap alternative, but offers great value pr $. As for thermalpaste, MX4 is a good proven paste and if you need better performance something like Kryonaut is good bang for buck. Check out this comparison by brother @jaybee83
-> http://forum.notebookreview.com/thr...e-recommendations-update-thermal-pads.796820/

System disassembly is quite straight forward, remove screws, slide the back cover of and remove screws as labeled. There is a screw towards GPU VRMs that might not be labeled, and unplug the CPU fan before lifting up the heatsink.

 

Been busy with things and wasn't able to get her open today to look at the paste. That kyronaut looks spendy but the reviews are pointing me to thinking it might be a waste to put the MX4 on it. When I can get it open I'll get some pics on here. Maybe after some new paste and pads show up, don't wanna be entirely without my PC.

For now, if the image linking is working for me, you can view my afterburner and throttlestop config.

Spoiler

I can do some sick spoilers' but opening and closing with IMG isn't making the link visible

https://postimg.cc/rRKnZGCs
https://postimg.cc/9zMnfV52