*** Official Clevo Sager NP9155 / P750TM-G / P751TM-G Owner's Lounge! ***

You can use https://imgur.com/ to upload -> press ...-> Get sharable links -> BBCode for forums with the prefix

 

I would t worry to much about the ram timings right now. I would get your CPU temps in check, and GPU temps in check first.

I ran a GTX1080 at full with a overclock with zero thermal throttling it hovered around 78C in the heaviest of loads, and my 8086K at 5Ghz all core overclock Would usually hover around the 70’s in average game, RDR2 was pretty easy on the CPU as it is a heavily GPU dependent Title even at 1080P. So in RDR2 it would sit around the mid 60’s at 5Ghz with a -0.150 undervolt.


You can get 4.7Ghz in the 8086K without the delid for now. Because, my 8086K in my precious P750TM1-G wasn’t delidded at first, and that is what I achieved fairly easily.

After the delid I maintained 5Ghz even in BFV which is AVX, and would draw upwards of 140 watts of power at times just from the CPU.

get your CPU and GPU Undervolting, and thermals in check. Then I’d move to ram tweaking. Because you’ve got a lot of performance to uncork in this machine for sure.

 

So I picked up a P750DM2-G - it is the origin version (Origin EON15-x), the bios is kind of locked down - but that isn't the problem - the question is about CPU upgrade choice.

It currently has a 7700k which isn't bad by any means, runs at 4.5Ghz -125mV, with temps in mid 80sC. (with ambient temp being around 80F) No delid, only thermal paste just redone. I also have a 1080 and P750TM1 heatsink on the way already.

Question is 8086k vs 9700k. Both are around the same price ~ $300 - $330. The 9700k is soldered I think? And I will probably delid the 8086k + LM if I get it.

Which is better for powerdraw / thermals / longterm/future performance? From what I can find the 8086k will pull around 100w and the 9700k will pull around 140~160w? So I am worried that with that kind of power draw the temps will get to high, especially once the 1080 goes in - due to the shared heatsink. Currently the 7700k pulls around ~75w (according to TS) and still gets in the 80s (of course with a delid I expect that to go down a bit), but with the extra power draw of the 8086k or 9700k I'm worried the heatsink can't take it, especially with ambient temps in the 80F (~30C).

(I am assuming future 10600k/10700k etc CPU's won't be swap-able with an bios upgrade in the future - socket difference? - so this is more of a long term CPU upgrade ~ 3yearsish)

Or wait for a cheaper 8700k around the ~$250 to appear since there isn't too much difference between the 8700k and 8086k anyways?

 

I am a huge fan of the 8086K, I’m partial to them because of how well they overclock with such little voltage! I had a 8086K in my P750TM1G I could run 5Ghz AVX stable in anything. Or I could run it stock with a -225 undervolt and it would draw like 47 watts of power under load at around maybe 45-50C.

I just moved back to desktop, but am running a different 8086K and it is at 5.3Ghz with no AVX offset and it’s just blistering fast.

I know I could always outperform the 9700K’s with my 8086K’s.

As for thermals and power draw, it’s all about what you are doing. I’ve seen my 8086K at 5.3Ghz pull 220 watts of power in Prime 95 small FFT’s with AVX enabled. Is that realistic? Absolutely not!

If the 8086K is cheaper, then I’d be all over it, or even if it’s not cheaper. Not many games scale that great past 6/12 cores and threads. So my higher clocked 8086K is almost always still the IPC king and fastest FPS option available right now. Sure there are faster CPU’s but your going to spend several hundred more, and hope it can reach the same speeds.

I will say this, I can match a stock (10) core (20) thread i7 6950XE in R15 in multithreaded performance. That’s impressive for a CPU like this. And obviously single thread is at the top of the heap. They are affordable for the performance they offer.

 

Ya there is a delided 8086k up for sale at $330 so that isn't bad, it is really tempting but I am not sure if it is a good deal compared to a 8700k @ $250~$270. Regardless they will be delided

Another potential CPU that caught my eye is the 9600k - believe it or not. They have dropped A LOT in price, I can find them for $150~160. It seems like a decent performing CPU. Especially since I am concerned with the heat sink being shared with the 1080 gtx. I figure delid it, put on a copper IHS with LM - it will run cool and not pull too much power so more can be put into overclocking the 1080 gtx and the 9600k is good enough to not bottleneck the 1080 and give good enough performance for a while. Then I still have the upgrade path or 8086k/9700k/9900k in the future. I don't do anything intensive that actually needs the power other than gaming once in a while and a desire to tinker with the laptop for fun.

 

It depends on the binning and what you are after. My 8086k runs 300mhz faster than my 8700k at lower voltages.

 

Thanks tps3445 and Meaker! I appreciate the help!

 

Would be the same as I benched my 8700K at 5.6 in the old Dm1 Yeah, it’s about the binning.

 

There's quite a variance in the top end the chips achieve, stock it matters much less.

 

Yep, your 8700K is one sweet piece of silicon.

A binned chip will run much cooler even at stock due to better volt/freq curve. Top frequency will depend on cold and voltage scaling from what I understand.

 

If you don't tweak the chip it's not going to be a world of difference usually, you would still have to go in an undervolt it.

 

If you get a binned SL chip, I'd assume you would take the time to adjust voltages

 

Still had people complaining the 8086K was not worth it at all.

 

I can see some argument for that in the desktop segment, but for laptops it made a lot more sense.

 

Can make a big difference in room temperatures too for desktop users.

 

Does anyone know (maybe @Meaker@Sager ) the specifications for the heatsink screws of the P75xTM? The service manual only has descriptions for the P775, and I don't think they have the same size since the heatsinks are different.
I want to buy new screws since the ones that hold the GPU are getting a bit scuffed due to the regular cleaning I do

 

Manual for P75xTMx, courtesy of Prema
https://mega.nz/file/PE1FVLAY#hA3fMtewFpdQcJHY3S9qTgi0P0so-Z_FnKP1KnsbLU0

 

As above

 

Another problem :|
My 1070 is stuck at 60w. In normal gaming and tests the power draw limitation is triggered at 60w.
But this does not happen all the time, sometimes it reverts to the "normal" limitation of 100w. But when the card is in the "100w mode" the laptop just freezes after a few minutes of 3D load.
I don't understand how it switches between 100 and 60 "modes".
What the hell is happening? Memory problems again? :|

 

Could be GPU / GPU power issues.

 

What perf cap reasons does hwinfo64 report?

 

Didn't check, but in GPU-Z, power limitation.

But I found the reason, poor thermal paste application. A part of the GPU core was without paste, hence the problems.
After a proper pasting job, everything is back to normal

 

This is why I wouldn't recommend the X or line method for laptops. Better to evenly spread the thermalpaste with an applicator, since there is limited heatsink pressure to have the desired spread with some thermalpastes. Glad you caught it in time.

 

X is fine, you just press down as you install it

 

And check if in fact everything else is also making contact.

 

That's why you hand adjusted the pads beforehand

 

Wont do much good if the X method has your die z-height offset.

 

The pressure should be enough to push the paste out, if not that's what pushing down is for

 

Always check and then double check

 

Random question, my P750DM2- now with P750TM bios, thanks dsanke! - seems to have a PSU issue? It came with the 230W PSU which works fine, but I plan on swapping out the CPU and GPU so I am going to a 330W PSU, but the one I bought doesn't seem to work. It is a delta one, plugs right in, but one I start the PC it turns off. If I plug it in after the laptop stats it recognizes it and works, but the PSU brick gets hot. I met the PSU seller and tried two other ones he had on hand and it did the same thing for all of them. S/N is W01W4BT01P7, not sure what is up. I thought flashing the dsanke bios might help, but it did the same thing.

 

The bricks will get hot with load, they have to dissipate a lot of heat. What CPU is it running?

 

For now I want to see what I can get out of the 7700k before I swap over to the 8086k.

Just curious but what does the CPU have to do with the 330W PSU not working? I thought the 330W PSU should be a plug and play thing.

 

Quirks can happen with custom firmware and chips, might be the brick is not quite healthy and can't handle the spike starting up puts on the system.

 

But I tried it with the stock bios first - had the issue, then flashed the new bios - still same problem, and two other bricks - still same issue.

Not sure if it is wrong 330w model?

 

You never mentioned that Could be a bad brick.

 

Dude! Must be a long day for you - if I thought flashing the dsanke bios might help that means I tried it without it lol. I also mentioned I tried more than one brick and they all did the same thing.

Which is why I am thinking it might be the model or my laptop is dumb?

I think I might just have to bite the bullet and buy another one from a different seller and try try again.

 

How does flashing one BIOS say you did not have a modified one before?

 

Ah, fair point! I made the assumption of recent acquisition = stock bios, but as you pointed out that doesn't have to be true.

Anyways, "normally" the 330w PSU is supppsed to be plug and play right? So my best course of action should be to buy a new one again, maybe a different model/sn one and try again?

 

Normally as far as I am aware it should be P&P.

 

What qualifies as a hot brick? My single 330W that services both the 5Ghz 9900kf and powermodded 1080 gets warm to the touch after prolonged use. And keep it behind the laptop, so it also gets all that hot exhaust air over it.

 

Airflow is much better than no airflow even if it's warm.

 

A failed power brick can also break/take down the whole machine. Have you monitored average power draw from the wall?

 

I ordered a Watt meter along with an infrared thermometer, but it's still somewhere in transit. Will report back when I get them, but so far the brick is only warm to the touch. As Meaker pointed out any air flow over it helps.

 

Mine felt hot to the touch when pushing towards their limits.

 

I just posted about the wattage from the wall in the OC lounge. Will also test temp soon.

 

If I get an external keyboard (bluetooth), can I use the FlexiKey software to turn every key on the built-in keyboard into a macro, without it affecting the external-keyboard?

 

So I finally got around to opening this laptop up. I got a pretty good deal on it and now I found why. All the screws for the copper plate were equipped with stripped heads. I dremeled them until I could use a flat head to get them out. After that, I air dusted what I’m hoping is all the bits of metal dust.

Im confused on one thing. I pulled the cpu and underneath, on the cpu itself, the transistors in the very center are covered with a white sticker. It’s got a number of some sort - A5060418
Do I keep the sticker? It doesn’t feel like a thermal thing of any sort.

 

It will be a reseller tag to track them.

 

does "rtx2070super/rtx2080s" MXM graphics-clevo versions- from X170sm works on this chassis or not? has anybody tested it?

 

Not tested yet as individual cards are not out there just yet.