*** Official Clevo W110ER / Sager NP6110 Owner's Lounge ***

wow an overclocked 3840QM can draw quite a bit of power...

http://i.imgur.com/8alfXsm.png

 

I've been having this problem as well, and it doesn't seem to be caused by the temperatures. Certain games just run fine on even the higher settings but just cause the computer to shut down as if someone had torn the battery and PSU out. Crysis 2 was the last game I plaed on it and I had to run it at the lowest settings AND set the resolution to 800x600 to play it, otherwise the computer would shut down after a couple of minutes. The thing is that computer never has seemed hot when this happens, it's pretty cool actually. The CPU load is minimal, but I haven't monitored the GPU. It's pretty peculiar as well that quitting even non-GPU-heavy applications like internet browsers etc. definitely seems to help, so it doesn't seem to have anything to do with the GPU. This has led me to also suspect it's because of a non-adequate PSU, even the one that was included. It's not because of my own experience as I haven't had this problem with any PC before, but I can't think of any other reasonable explanation. I haven't had the opportunity to try another PSU yet though, I'm pretty fine with running games on the lowest settings since the screen's so small anyway

 

Hi again,

Thanks to all for the suggestions, I think I will seek out another PSU, though it does appear to be putting out the required amount of juice, I haven't tested it under load or for long periods of time. It may be at the end of its life.

That said, the suggestion that it could be a cooling fan issue is now also something I suspect, when not under load if I listen closely the fan seems to be making an odd noise. Under heavy load it doesn't sound out of place at all.

So on that note, does anyone happen to know where I can get a replacement fan for the W110ER?? Clevo support haven't replied to my email yet. I've heard that they aren't so good at replying. I have done some searching online when I've had spare time (not much lately!) and haven't really turned up anything, so anyone who has any experience with this please let me know.

Thanks again all! =)

 

I was having the same issues on mine but the laptop would shut off when the GPU hit around 73C which was really low. I re-pasted with some cheap stuff in Hong Kong (only brand I could find) and made sure everything was clean and fastened securely. I seemed to fix the problem and the GPU could get into the 80s before cutting out.
I'm in Melbourne now and I've had a couple of cut outs. I've just ordered some iCoollaboratory Liquid Ultra Thermal Paste which is liquid metal. I carries a higher risk when applying as its electrically conductive so you can't make any mistakes. From everything i've seen its the best stuff on the market. I'll post my findings along with the new Laptop cooling pad i'm going to get.

 

Oh yes please do! I would love to hear how well that stuff works.

 

Has anyone found any mPCIe to USB adapters that work in the the slot? I bought two and both of them pass power but not data it seems. My idea is to ditch the wireless cards and use a 1 watt USB wifi adapter instead. The last step is just find an adapter that seems to work! The bluetooth on the wifi cards is USB so I assumed the pin outs are there..

EDIT: It's really too bad I can't find any wifi cards that operate above 32mW (like the 6300AGN) which is why I have restored to this USB wifi idea.

 

eBay. I get daily updates to my standing search for Clevo W110ER/Sager NP6110. Most of them are for the cooling fan.

 

Yeah, I've seen a few coming from China, but the last laptop part I purchased directly from China, even though I purposefully didn't go for the cheapest one, just outright didn't work and had no return option. So I was sorta avoiding them... But if that's all I can do then China it is! Thanks mate! =)

 

The thermal compound was delivered today. Installation went smoothly although the liquid metal was very different to work with. You only need a tiny amount. I found applying it to the brush rather than the chip before spreading was easier.

Results.. I'll post my final results when I've finished testing but I got a 14C drop in load temps. Colour me very very impressed. Remember this is in comparison to the crap thermal compound which was installed before.

RESULTS - All the test were done on the same warm Melbourne day (around 26-27C)
3.4GHZ CPU, STOCK GPU | Stock TIM
Sleeping Dogs Benchmark Highest sustained temp GPU 74C 55.6FPS
TSBench (Throttle Stop Bench) 32M Highest sustained temp CPU 96C

3.4GHZ CPU, STOCK GPU | New iCoollaboratory Liquid Ultra Thermal Paste
Sleeping Dogs Benchmark Highest sustained temp GPU 62C 55.8FPS
TSBench (Throttle Stop Bench) 32M Highest sustained temp CPU 69C

3.8GHZ CPU, +200Core, 140Mem GPU | New iCoollaboratory Liquid Ultra Thermal Paste + Coolmaster Notepal x3 with bottom of Laptop
Sleeping Dogs Benchmark Highest sustained temp GPU 56C 66.8FPS
TSBench (Throttle Stop Bench) 32M Highest sustained temp CPU 72C

These were all using the UV Bios. With the above OC I got a 3DMark 11 score of P2845 Validation I can get higher with the UV/OV Bios. Infact my temps are now so low I will change to this.

 

That is very impressive!! I am going to purchase some right away and try it for myself! Thanks for the results. How are your idle temps as well? I would love to see a video of idle temps to load temps on a benchmark.

 

I'll see at I can do today for you. Idle temps are much better with the cooler but not massively better at idle. It's at load where there's the biggest difference.

 

This stuff is absolutely amazing. That's all I have to say

 

I meant to do a video but forgot. Yes it's insane!
I can now play with my max benchmarking clocks 24/7 when using my cooler with lower temps than before. The difference is almost like having a new new laptop in certain games. With ENB injector and other mods in skyrim it used to run around 24fps which is unplayable. Now I can run in the low 30s which for me is fine!
Very happy indeed.

On a side note. My new playable clocks 3D mark 11 score has gone from 2800 to 3100. I can now use the UV/OV bios. Thanks Prema!

 

Now that's a good idea, use the OV bios... hmm lol some quick numbers here

idle: 35-50c with almost zero fan during movies, browsing the internet
Load for CPU: 81c for my overclocked 3840qm (hardware monitor shows it using 56watts)
Load for GPU: usually 45-65c (I use nvidia inspector to limit framerate to 60fps) Plus I overclock it 1020/990 on the UV BIOS.
Furmark load gets up to 70c if left on for a couple hours

The fan has never hit it's peak RPM since I have applied the new paste (metal?) lol This is also my first time with this metal thermal liquid so I will let it settle and reapply to see if i can do it better. I mine litecoin/BOINC 24/7 on my laptop so having good temps is a must. optimus FTW!

 

What ever happened to that heatsink someone was making for our laptops? Are they for sale at all?

 

This post for the answer.

 

I've seen the thread and there isn't much now a days on for sale info. I PM'ed him to see what's up I'd love to test his hard work with my liquid metal thermal replacement.

 

Quick question for those who switched to the IPS display that doesn't line up;
How did you go about attaching the panel?
Where did you use double sided tape?
was it actually necessary to remove the metal tabs?
Whats the best way to make sure its not offset or crooked?

 

It's likely they attached it to the back of the lid, you would want to use a ruler and pencil to work out what is straight and line it up.

 

Good job! Nice!

One question though, how do you clean off that Coollaboratory Liquid Ultra stuff? Regular alcohol works? It's metal, so I'd be a bit concerned about leaving any trace of it.

 

I personally removed metal tabs with high quality tongs.
Sides of panel attached with hot glue gun: you have few seconds to do some adjustements to position panel and if something goes wrong you can easily remove hardened glue with panel.

 

Very easy actually. I have done a few repastes and it doesn't leave anything behind. Use the included wipe or any alcohol wipe without any scents or beauty related products in it and it works great. Mileage may vary I guess as I lapped my heatsink quite a bit

Coollaboratory Liquid Ultra - How to remove within seconds... - YouTube

 

I like it - I was considering a more permanent glue solution, but hot glue makes a lot of sense (especially given that its attaching to smooth surfaces where it has reduced hold) Its permanent enough to keep it from going anywhere unintentionally ( I tried today with no hardware holding the screen, and it didn't move more than a millimeter, and that was with me purposely attempting to move it) with that amount of hold, and you can easily remove it again if needed. Unfortunately, I think I killed my fan so I'm waiting on a replacement there; it doesn't spin... ever. and I may have done more damage as a result; I'm hoping its the CPU's thermal protection kicking in since I literally JUST bought this 3720qm - long story short, I attempted to run a non-framelimited GLXGEARS, which is actually moderately CPU and GPU intensive if you run it using the nvidia chip... the laptop instantly froze.
At any rate, I also was able to throw my memory up to 2133 @ 11-11-11-27-1N which is what the corsair sticks are rated at... 8gb seems sufficient for my needs for now, but the increased speed is totally worth it. If you are wondering why a 3720qm and not something more high-end - I simply want the lowest power consumption processor to support VT-d; I'm going to shoot for a Windows VM with XEN VGA passthrough; giving me the best of the Linux world, with the option of Windows without rebooting for games that don't work well on Linux (Borderlands 2 is almost perfect now :-D)
It's too much of a hassle to do the things I normally do on Windows, and its too much of a hassle to swap SSD's and/or reboot into Windows (splitting an SSD for Windows & Linux really doesn't sit well with me, capacity wise)

I'm not even 100% sure that I can utilize XEN passthrough with Optimus (1 framebuffer) but I'm sure as hell gonna try.

Also, for whatever reason I get ~2hrs more battery life in Linux than Windows.

 

I use thick double sided tape. To adjust it. I measure where the screen should be from the top. Then put double sided tape on the side of the screen and position it. Put it on and last minute adjustments and push to stick it on nice and tight. I did it for 3 clevo w110er so far. As for the metal tabs, I did not remove . I just wrap it around the panel. This way, I don't have to cut it (one less thing that can go wrong).

 

I found an adapter from one of my old laptops that seem to work really well with the laptop.

Ebaylink Genuine Original Lenovo IdeaPad Essential AC Adapter 20V 3 25A 65W ADP 65KH B | eBay

I had it hidden under my bed and left my laptop crunching litecoin on the CPU all night long without realizing I plugged it into the lower wattage adapter. It let my laptop draw 85 watts for the entire night from this adapter. I was really impressed; It's super small and doesn't get hot at all. (I don't recommend drawing 20 watts above what it's rated though

I also tried a 45 watt adapter and it lets my laptop charge but it disables turbo boost. Also speaking of power consumption, I ran another overclocked and overvolted GPU benchmark and my 130 watt was drawing 140 from the wall! That is a personal record lol

 

140 from the wall will be around 126-112w from the system itself.

 

pretty amazing!

 

Yeah a hungry critter for the size

I get to about 450w on the p570wm lol.

 

OMG haha not surprised though, that thing is a BEAST.

 

Yeah targeted at a slightly different usage, the looks you get when pulling it out on a train are funny.

 

My laptop kept shutting off whenever I was playing anything involving nVidia at random temperatures. Just repasted it with Collaboratory Liquid Ultra and it shut off within 5 minutes of playing Titan Fall Beta (previous paste lasted 10 minutes). What's weird is that GPU temp didn't even reach 70. While CPU stayed at 75. Before I used to push GPU and CPU both 90's without any issues.

 

Is your brick maybe having issues?

 

My laptop kept shutting off whenever I was playing anything involving nVidia at random temperatures. Just repasted it with Collaboratory Liquid Ultra and it shut off within 5 minutes of playing Titan Fall Beta (previous paste lasted 10 minutes). What's weird is that GPU temp didn't even reach 70. While CPU stayed at 75. Before I used to push GPU and CPU both 90's without any issues.

EDIT: took it apart - turns out the heatsink wasn't providing enough pressure on the chips. Screw 4 and the lack of screw 9 made the respective corners on the CPU and GPU not be in contact with the heat sink. I repasted and pushed the heatsink down as much as I could. It helped. Although my PCH temp almost constantly stays at 90 C when I'm playing. CPU and GPU are at 83 and 73 respectively, but at least nothing is shutting off.

 

Pch usually gets hot so those temps are normal.

 

Mad respect carrying around a laptop that houses a full fledged desktop CPU

 

It might be the case. My battery just busted, so it might be the brick. Last battery broke 10 months ago, but I was using a brick that gave 25W less watts than needed, so I thought it was the Wattage situation. But seems like the default 120W is also not good. Or maybe battery is just crap. I do carry my laptop everyday to work, with temp jumps of NYC climate and banging in the Subway no wonder it crapped itself.

 

My guess would be the brick, it happens sometimes and sourcing a replacement should not be too bad, there are 3rd party ones at that power range or you could move up to a 150W. Just avoid the cheap rubbish.

 

Hey all. Question. I am wondering what sort of price I should ask for my NP6110 - I am considering replacing it with a NP7330, or maybe the new NP8255 when they come out...

The NP6110 is in mint condition and has had very very light usage since purchased (I am the original owner, purchased it through XoticPC.com 06/18/2012). Still has the original stock BIOS, I replaced the glossy screen with a matte one (I'd include the glossy screen as well for whoever buys the laptop), and I added a couple of little copper heatsinks on the stock heatsinks which helped a little with heat, other than that, totally vanilla with basic Sager branding. All keys are like new - no wear on any of the characters at all.

I removed the 750GB hybrid drive shortly after purchase and put in an Intel 240GB SSD.. I would reinstall the original 750GB hybrid and install Windows7 Home Premium 64 fresh, so the HDD is basically brand new. The original brick has hardly been used as I purchased a more compact power unit for travel.. both would be included for the new owner. I'd also include the Zalman ZM-NC1500mini cooler stand, which is the perfect size for the NP6110.

Processor is i7-3610QM,
8GB of 1600MHz ram,
IC Diamond compound on CPU & GPU (installed by XoticPC.com)
of course the stock NVidia GT-650M GPU
Intel Advanced-N 6235 - 802.11A/B/G/N Wireless LAN Module + Bluetooth

I paid extra for a Sager 2 Year Parts & Lifetime Ltd Labor Warranty w/ Lifetime 24/7 DOMESTIC Toll Free Customer Support, so it's still under warranty for another 4 months.

I usually only sell gear on EVGA.com forums, but that is a desktop forum, rarely laptops, so not sure if I'd get much interest there. We use Heatware for seller/buyer recommendations, my profile is here [ link] if that helps at all. I have a distaste for EBay and prefer to stay away from that place...

So.. what is a reasonable asking price?

Sale would be to US48 only, in US currency (thought I'd mention, since the previous poster on this thread is from the UK).

Appreciate any responses.

 

Nice to know other people still user their W110ERs. This thread sold me on them originally.

I have used mine really only as a travel laptop, as I have a Precision M4700 work provides that I'm anchored to 95% of the time. As such, mine is barely used, not a single sign of wear anywhere, including the keyboard.

Talking about the keyboard, that is what I'm having an issue with. I left the system on (idling on a Zalman cooling pad) when I was on a business trip in Europe for two weeks. Came back and I noticed some keys on the Clevo now require an extremely firm press or a "press-and-roll."
Every key works, just you are going to be missing 30-50% of your letters when you are typing unless you "press-and-roll."

Keyboards just "die" like this? External keyboard works fine with the system.

I thought I would take it apart and investigate but I'm actually stuck on getting the keyboard "latches" unhooked. Following this video for the Sager version (1 minute in) ( Disassembly Clevo Netbook intellibook Repair Replace Guide - YouTube), I've been bending paperclips left and right trying to budge the latches, but nothing is doing the trick. I thought I would be smart and take the entire bottom off and motherboard, which I did, only to arrive at the conclusion that there are screws beneath the keyboard that need to be removed to free the motherboard. I'm thinking since the keyboard is likely defective I'd just dremel the entire keyboard out, but I don't want to screw something up, especially with the mainboard 1/8" below.

Does anyone have any insight on this? It is extremely frustrating to be stopped by something so simple. The latches look like they simply need to be slid towards the touch-pad, but they will not budge, even with enough force that I am afraid of breaking the whole thing. I see in "Eurocom's" manual that the system supposedly ships with a "Tool for pressing the keyboard latches." I did not receive such a tool on my Clevo ordered through RJTECH.com, but it looks like a simple plastic prodding tool.

Thank you for the help!

 

There is a price check section in the members market.

 

For the poster that said he gets better battery life in linux, he is totally correct. The idle power consumption in Linux is amazing when configured correctly. Reading this article [Phoronix] A Proper Solution To The Linux ASPM Problem so this means windows is disabling ASPM not because the BIOS doesn't support it but because the BIOS isn't advertising it correctly.

"Active-State Power Management is part of the PCI Express specification, but not all hardware plays well with this power management method. The change in the Linux 2.6.38 kernel disabled ASPM unless the BIOS advertised support for it, but it turns out a vast number of systems supporting ASPM do not actually advertise it from the BIOS. As a result, systems that were running fine with ASPM and experience no issues were now running without ASPM. A whole range of motherboards do not handle this as expected"

Maybe Clevo/Sager did this on purpose since you can stick any Wifi card you want in the slot or something, idk the reasoning but it's interesting.

 

Would love to, but isn't there a minimum 100 post requirement to post on there? I'm not there yet.
This is the foremost forum thread on this model, so it made sense to ask here (imho).
Since you bothered to reply, perhaps you might venture an opinion on price while you're at it?
Thanks either way..

 

Have there been any other recent attempts to install the IPS panel on the NP6110? Been hit and miss so far (miss in my case), would like to know if anyone else has had any success more recently ..or failure. I am finding pixel density on my current screen a little lacking at present, which makes some of the in-game text difficult to decipher (specifically in GW2)...

 

What's the members market? Where can I find that? lol

 

Marketplace :hi2:

 

I just replaced my keyboard because some of the keys were dieing, Originally it was the "t" key but then it moved to "e" "shift" and some number keys. The strange this was that it wasn't every other press or just firm presses that made it work again, it was totally random, sometime "e" was dead and other times "e" would work hundreds of presses in a row.

Anyway, the trick to the little notches that worked for me was to use a flat head precision screwdriver from one one of those little sets of 5 tiny drivers. Just cram it down the little slot and lever it against the keyboard pushing the latch back. I worked from right to left most successfully and as soon as I got the first one I wiggle the board up a little so the latch can't catch back, do the same with the 2nd and 3rd as well. I can see why something like a paperclip wouldn't be ideal. Good luck!

 

Yeah! Thank you bud!

I got three small flat-head screwdrivers going, one prying on the latch, one holding the last latch/pry, and the third applying pressure on the whole keyboard from the center, pushing it towards the touch-pad. Once I got the first one, the others were much easier.

I guess a good nights sleep helps too, but it still wasn't as easy as it should be. Most Dell Latitudes and Precisions (my primary laptop experience, unfortunately) make it easy to swap the keyboard without marking the trim plastics up with a screwdriver. I marked mine all up right around those slots. Wiping the spot clean makes it less visible, but if you really looked closely you can tell the keyboard has been replaced.

The thing is, it is not really a "latch" at all. Just some molded plastic "nubs" that the keyboard's stamped steel hooks are pushed down below. I can see this wearing out on like the third keyboard replacement.

Cleaning/reseating the ZIF connector seemed to help the"M" key, maybe? No, I'm sure it did not help at all, evry other key still does not work. It is nice to know you had the same problem and a replacement worked for you. Hopefully the next one is more reliable.

Where did your pick your replacement keyboard up? From a laptop vendor or a third party (28 days from China?!?)? I'm in the US.

Thank you for the help!

 

I guess no opinions on the NP6110 resale value..?

I kinda wish Sager/Clevo would put out an update of the NP6110, but with a much better quality screen (obviously) and updated CPU/GPU.

 

If you are not allowed to post in the mm yet then you should not be asking on the main forum either. However check to see the last one sold on there or eBay as a good reference point.

 

I think they already did with the W230ST, it basically employs everything that we've been whining about lol (IPS high res screen, 3 posssible storage drives, GDDR5 equipped GPU). Obviously they had to increase the chassis size (presumably because few 11" IPS screens were available in bulk).
I personally wouldn't try to sell off the NP6110 for this reason, new buyers get more value with the W230ST.

Machines like the W110er are a dying breed, people expect a certain amount of screen real-estate from their laptops these days otherwise they would've gone with a tablet. I don't game much on my w110er anymore (the GDDR3 just shuts down the fluidity) but it is a great travel machine due to its size.