*** Official Clevo W110ER / Sager NP6110 Owner's Lounge ***

The repaste is so easy and the effects are enormous! Also a clean Win 10 install makes a BIG difference.

 

The 3720qm, 3740qm and 3820qm are also an option, it's a fairly decent speed increase and allow some overclocking (+400mhz).

 

The 650M is soldered to the motherboard so no upgrade I am afraid.

 

You can't really fit MXM modules into the smaller machines.

 

Hello, I was hoping someone could give me some guidance here. I've had my Clevo W110ER for many years now and for a while, the screen's connector or the LVDS cable or connector has started to malfunction. Usually, the screen is completely void of activity, or there's a lot of artifacts and noise, before I push and pull the screen until it's at least usable (albeit still with this weird thing where features on the screen are duplicated/ghosted slightly below them). After opening the monitor case, I find that slightly tapping the LVDS cable changes the state of it all - rather than pushing and pulling the screen, you can just tap the cable and the screen will at some point become, well, usable...

I'm kind of getting sick of it, and I'm fairly certain it's got to be the LVDS cable that's malfunctioning, since barely tapping the cable alleviates most of the noise. The problem is that there are literally no retailers selling LVDS cables at all in Sweden, where I live, and I found only one W110ER spare parts vendor selling that specific LVDS cable... in France and at extreme shipping costs. So I'm wondering whether other 40-pin LVDS cables could work? Like this one? https://www.amazon.co.uk/Sunkee-I-P...d=1462898807&sr=8-5&keywords=lvds+cable+40pin

By the way, there are plenty of W110ER displays for sale, but none seem to come with the LVDS cable.

Thanks!

 

It needs to be the same both ends so no on that cable (pretty much every cable out there is either a different length or plugs into the motherboard with a different connector).

 

Thanks! You mean it has to be the same connector on both ends? But on one end it has the regular LVDS monitor connector (pins on a straight line), and on the motherboard end there's a completely different type of connector (with pins arranged in pairs), if I'm not mistaken?

 

It needs to be the same both ends as your current cable.

 

Ah yes, of course. I thought the one I linked was (apart from that extra connector), but yeah... looks like I'm going to have to order a spare parts cable for 60 USD or so, but maybe take a leap of faith testing a new screen first for 30 USD... I'll start out, however, by checking with all retailers of Clevo (and associated), I guess.

EDIT: I actually found several Clevo retailers and service centers that had them in store, for anyone concerned!

 

Does anyone know how to remove the motherboard/keyboard? I've removed pretty much everything including the heat sink but something is stil holding the motherboard down and when I pry the keyboard bezel it still seems like it's attached to the motherboard as it lifts the motherboard up?

 

There are clips running along the top of the keyboard.

 

EDIT (solved): Nevermind, I solved this using Clinkz' method here - it doesn't make much sense to me but it must've reacclimatized the driver (to a battery that's supposedly the same): http://www.sevenforums.com/hardware-devices/153161-plugged-not-charging.html

I bought a new battery for my W110ER since the original one was getting old. However, the new battery isn't charged by my computer! It's almost as if no battery is connected at all, with a crossed over battery logo in the Windows system tray. Interestingly, however, when the new battery is inserted (along with the charger) the text bubble when hovering over the battery icon says "Connected and charging", and when no battery is inserted it instead says "No battery detected".

The new battery looks exactly the same and has the same label and text (including model name, voltage, watt-hours and current), apart from the label on the face of the connector (I reckon it's just a serial number) as well as a textstring reading "(EU 5400mAh)" under the CE-logo and the text "3ICR18/65-2" to the right of the model name which weren't present on the old one. Perhaps most importantly, the old one had a manufacturing date "2012/03", while the new one's was "2013/02".

What could be the problem here? It should be noted I'm not using the original charger as it broke - I'm currently using another charger (output 19V, 4.74A). Also, the old one works fine, I have it readily available and fully functionable and have been using it in-between the couple of times I've tried using the new one.

Thanks!

 

Hello I bought Atheros AR9582 based wifi card and It's not detected by my Clevo W110ER (doesn't show under lspci on linux). I tried using this card with my other laptop and using exactly the same Live CD image second laptop detects this card properly whereas W110ER doesn't.

What could be the problem? Does W110ER have some limited mPCI-E slot? Or wifi whitelist? What can I do to make it work / how to debug it?

The card is MikroTik R11e-2HnD. Clevo works with Intel card and old Atheros from other laptop. Doesn't work with R11e. Old laptop works with all cards (Samsung NC10)

 

There is no white list no, some odd firmware conflict? What chipset does the card use?

 

Atheros AR9582. Here is brochure:
http://i.mt.lv/routerboard/files/R11-160330120410.pdf
I've got 800mW low profile model.

I'm running stock BIOS. Never updated.

 

Does it have the heatsink on it? Intel have a max 2W transmit power without one... You could make sure your BIOS is up to date and if there is any firmware for the card (Not usually).

 

2W... what? Intel is capped at 15dBm max tx power it's much below 100mW (as 20dBm is 100mW exactly). that's why I got this one it's 800mW (29 dBm). We're talking about Tx power it's not power draw this card has 5W power consumption. 1000mW version 7W with big heatsink. It's around 10 times above allowed norm for home devices... it's router grade card not really PC one but compatible with x86 linux platform so should work with any laptop in theory. Most powerful internal card I could find in the market. I'm so sad it doesn't work

 

That might be your issue then, the slot might not like the power on consumption of the card.

 

I am trying to replace my keyboard, does anyone have experience removing the keyboard? i have google and googled and found one result from a manual aggregator but it proved unhelpful. I have tried pushing the 4 tabs along the top of the keyboard down and pulling up but I'm afraid I will damage the latches or the laptop as I am using a lot of force, and the keyboard is not 'popping up' after depressing all four tabs as it says it should in the manual. Here is the link: http://www.manualslib.com/manual/510177/Eurocom-W110er.html?page=41.

Basically quite a few of my keys enter my input twice with one press and often miss an input, it's really erratic. I pulled a key off to see if I could clean it but there was no build up or other nasty stuff under the key, it looked like it should be working fine.

edit: i should mention I used two different small tool screwdrivers and a paperclip to depress the latches, neither got the desired result.

 

This laptop needs to be refreshed... my heart breaks every time I see NP6110

 

Ehh, mine still performs well enough to play most games at medium settings. The performance for the x50m series cards haven't really improved much anyways, considering it's been 3 generations.

 

W230ss performs like a champ on Battlefield 4. Gt650m doesn't from what I remember.

 

That laptop is also equipped with a gtx 860m, a step up from what our little laptop had. Also, I think I broke one of the clips holding my keyboard in . I hope that they are part of the keyboard and not the machine, I'm gona be replacing the keyboard anyways... you know they are charging $100 for a new keyboard? Im temped to go with a 20 Chinese knockoff.

 

That's what im saying.. lol we need a refresh

 

Hey, can you describe how to depress the clips along the top of the keyboard? I have tried using a paperclip and small screwdriver to depress the clips but have only managed to break one (I think). I tried following the directions from this site: http://www.manualslib.com/manual/510177/Eurocom-W110er.html?page=41, but I just can't get the keyboard to pop out after depressing the clips...

 

you have to remove the "gate" first. the plastic between the keys. then you can push the top tabs and remove the keyboard

 

By prying on it with a screwdriver?

 

yes. i personally damaged some tabs on the 'gate' but enough were intact to keep the piece flat and secure after the install.

 

Hi guys,
My W110ER is running bad these days... In fact, it doesn't run anymore! I can't switch on: I plug the PSU (I have 2 120W PSU and 1 90W), 'PSU check' LED lights orange, I push start button (no blue light on its!), and the 'PSU check' LED lights twice in green and... nothing else, absolutely nothing!

I've tried with only one RAM stack, with only battery plugged, without battery plugged, I wait 2 days without battery/PSU plugged, I've tried to push the start button during more than 1 minute (CMOS battery reset attempt...), allways without any periphericals plugged (USB, card reader): nothing more!

The preliminary issues:
I first had a blue screen: Windows stops running laptop because it seems to have a problem... No more details...
Each time I switch on the laptop, this blue screen appears...
I've tried to restore last restoration point in Windows. It did well but still have blue screen.
So, to see if my partition on my SSD was good, I've plugged a USB key with hackintosh installer on it (next project...): first, I could see all my partitions, and all seems to be good.
Finally, I've accidently run the Mac installer (hackintosh) from this USB key... Not worried, cause it was just a installation software runing (apple rolling and loading), but I didn't want to do that now. So I switch off the laptop by pushing many seconds the start button... It switched off well!
And now, nothing happens as I explained earlier...

What ******** I've made :-/
I wonder if it's not just my CMOS battery which is too old?
I gonna change it today... What do you think?.

My W110ER:
- No logo barebone Clevo W110ER
- Configured and bought on november 2013 (Eurocom Canada)
- BIOS not modified ("original" Eurocom BIOS config)
- CPU i7 3940XM 3Ghz (I've never OC/UC it, still Eurocom settings, running from 1,2Ghz 12x to 3,3Ghz 33x in quad with Intel Tunning software)
- GT650M never OC/UC
- RAM 16GB (dual 8GB) Crucial, never OC/UC
- SSD Samsung 840 Pro 512GB
- IPS screen (bought in China, some line artefacts after 8 months using... but it's a different problem I guess!)
- Wifi Killer 5GHz

I'm in France,
Thanks for your help!

 

OK, I've just unplugged the CMOS battery connector (white one on motherboard) during several minutes.
I've plugged it again and plugged the PSU: laptop switch on right, boot manager propose to run Windows or restore a restoration point. When I run Windows, I still have the blue screen after the Windows logo rolling...

Blue screen intro:
A problem has been detected and Windows has been shut down to prevent damage to your computer.
SYSTEM_SERVICE_EXCEPTION
...
Technical information:
*** STOP: 0x0000003B ..."

Could it be a CMOS battery to change for a new one?
Or just to reinstall Windows (I hadn't made an image this time :-( )? It seems to be a Windows problem because only happens after the logo session rolling...?

 

how old is your HDD/SSD? i know i had to replace my 128gb ssd after 3 years. i also had to reset the cmos battery. not replace it. install a fresh copy of windows via USB on a new HDD/SSD and salvage anything from your original later on.

-alex

 

My SSD is also since november 2013.

Tonight I've reinstall another x64 Win 7 Ultimate on my old x64 Win 7 Ultimate partition. Now it seems to work well. Tried different reboot and Windows runs OK.

I go to bed and tomorrow I will install all my W110ER drivers (GT650M and Wifi...). We'll see!

My others partitions with datas are good, I gonna copy its to put a Hackintosh and Linux triple boot soon (if everything stills OK...).

 

Anybody have any recommendations for upgrading the CPU? I've never done something like that and was wondering what I'll need to do. Funny thing actually, a model of the w110er from Eurocom can be configured for a 3940xm. Wonder what that would have felt like back in the day . So can the CPU only upgraded for another one in the 3--- line? Would it be worth upgrading to a 3720qm?

 

What chip do you have now? You just need a Phillips head screwdriver to open the case and remove the heatsink and a flat head to undo the CPU socket along with some thermal paste.

 

Can the duo core i5 3380m cpu version be upgraded to the quad core i7-3610qm?

 

Can anyone help me find an LVDS cable for Clevo w110er?

What kind of connector does the cable use on the motherboard? If I can get one of these I could repair mine.

Thanks

 

Have you contacted your original reseller?

 

No, I have not contacted. The last time I contact them was a tough dispute.

Any ideas?

 

Another local reseller might be able to source it for you.

 

I have contacted all the distributors that I found on the internet, do not have stock or do not respond directly. I do not see great options.

It occurs to me that the LVDS cable of some other model has a similar pinout.

 

If you are really stuck get another cable with the same pin LVDS monitor side connection (gold flat end) . The motherboard side (white end) is very likely to be different but I believe the pins on that generation can be carefully removed so get one with the same style of connector with the same monitor end.

Use a multimeter to trace out where each line goes, make a record of this.

Remove the pins from the connector and the donor and place the ends from the donor into the old and empty connector with the pin out you took down.

 

This work is what I will do as soon as I find a similar cable. I have a cable available but the connector on the motherboard is also flat

 

You need one with a similar style otherwise it becomes a nightmare.

 

Good day, question guys. Do you know if there's still selling this brand new? From what store? Do we still have it in ebay or amazon? I'm from the Philippines by the way, I still find it useful to have an 11inch beast.

 

Discontinued

Does anyone have the datasheet or pinout of lp116wh4 sln2?

 

Panelook.com ?

 

My trusty travel notebook W110ER is broken. First the hinges and now the screen. Any European re-sellers with spare parts, @clevo-extreme? Any help is much appreciated. There is no notebook like this in the market today!

And all make notice it's a 11" notebook with a socket CPU!! No BGA here...

 

We have still some spare parts, just let us know

CEG-Hardcorecustom 》Fastest Gaming Clevo Notebooks & High-End Mobile Workstations 《

 

Well, I suppose it is about time I came here.

About a year and a half ago, I accidentally dropped my WR110ER notebook. The notebook itself mostly survived, but ever since then I have not been able to get the battery to charge.

Mostly errors along the lines of "Plugged in not charging" or "No Battery Detected" types, even if the battery is plugged in for the latter. I've done my researched and narrowed down what the potential problem could be.

I have ruled out the possibility of the battery itself being damage, as when I installed a fresh, new one, it still had the same problems. From there, I concluded that the problem was probably a system component being damaged when it was dropped. The question is, which one?

Could it be the charging circuit that is damaged? If so, can it be repaired?

Or could it be another problem entirely?

Perhaps something else, like the logic boards being damaged? Unlikely, but something to consider.

http://www.pcmag.com/article2/0,2817,2404105,00.asp

http://s472165864.onlinehome.fr/anyware/manuels/W110ER.pdf

A service manual for reference.



Further Notes: The notebook itself was a gift from my father. I have had this device with me for a few years now, and it has served me well into the current day. If at all possible, I would like to save and/or salvage it, as I have yet to find any decent competitors that could actually replace it in good order.

From what I have research, it would seem that it would be better to have the notebook replaced in its entirely due to the difficulties of fixing such a problem. Even so, I would like to make an attempt to restore it to something fully functional.

I will admit, I have no experience in taking apart computers whatsoever, except maybe to peak into the internal components. Even so, I am willing to learn in order to use my notebook as it originally was.

If needed, I can post screenshots of the interior if required.

Any assistance would be much appreciated.

 

Remove the battery and look at the flat gold contacts on the notebook. Some may be bent and not making proper contact. Especially likely if the battery flew out of it when it hit the ground. You can hopefully just gently bend them back into place (with AC disconnected obviously) so the battery slides and clicks into place smoothly.

If not that, then you will need to pull the thing apart and check for broken or loose connections