*** Official Clevo W110ER / Sager NP6110 Owner's Lounge ***

I checked the contacts, and they do not appear to be bent. Far as I know, they seem to be making proper contact.

I should mention when it was dropped, that the battery did not fly out.

Let's review what has been established.

The battery itself does not appear to be the problem.
The errors are either of the "Plugged in, not charging", or "No battery detected" types.

I suspect something responsible for charging the battery itself may be damaged. Perhaps a wire, or something of the like?

What do you mean precisely when referring to broken or loose connections? The wires that connect to the battery itself or the transformer?

Additional Information: Looking at the battery icon, there is a red X on it. I have changed the battery, there has been no change.
---
I'll post some screenshots soon. Perhaps that may reveal something. Taking apart may prove to be a somewhat difficult endeavor, but hopefully it shouldn't be too hard.

 

A drop could have caused damage to the battery monitoring/charging circuit which could read as a bad battery. A loose inductor or resistor in that area of the motherboard could be a root cause.

 

Do you still have any CPU bottom covers? Part number 6-42-w1103-102 KYL

Or does anyone have a broken model that they don't mind parting out?

 

You can still get parts new, here's the one you're looking for from rjtech.
http://rjtech.com/shop/index.php?dispatch=products.view&product_id=30266

 

Still running great with SSD and W10 using as a HTPC.


Only one major problem; the hinges…


There are two plastic fluted posts on each bottom side case. Clevo totally dropped the ball on this model detail as a great number of like hinge problems found. Simply beefing up the bottom pillars would have done wonders for a zero problem notebook.


I found the $10 bottom case going for $50 but did not check for stock. I lucked out and found out that JB Weld, carefully placed around pillars, a lasting fix over last two months with no cracks or separation noted. The bottom case pillars started failing two years after my September 25, 2012 purchase date with major hinge creep last month.


Cheers

 

Add me to the list of people who ran into problems with the hinges: the left ones broke down, along with the top part of the laptop near those hinges. It's a miracle the screen still works, but it does.

It's really shame, because everything else on this laptop is really working fine: it could still function as a more than adequate working/office laptop for at the very least 5 years.

It is out of question I am tossing it away: what are my options to fix it or transform it into some sort of "mini desktop"? I am not tech savvy enough to do anything on my own, so I need help to fix it.
I bought it to a UK reseller that ran out of business and now I'm in the US, in a small town with no good computer repair shops : should I contact sager in the US? Or another reseller and see what options they might have?
I'm willing to pay some price to repay it. Worst case scenario, I'll just keep it as it is, and use it with an external mouse, keyboard and screen: it will still work as long as I don't move it around.

 

How damaged is it? Do you have pictures?

 

I ruined an old Asus laptop when I accidentally drove over it, removed the broken lid and display, used the base as a htpc for 4 years.

So long as the cable and connector are fine the screen will display ok. The problem usually is when hinges get loose, the cables can move and get pinched during open/close movement which is what kills them super quick.

It was the wifi that got ruined in mine. So instead of a dodgy repair on the tiny coax cables or $60 for new (!) I bought a $2 pair of router-like antenna ports and fixed them in the side of the case and it now has way better reception too

 

I hope these are good enough.






I haven't used this computer in months, so it's a bit dusty (which reminds me I totally forgot to buy a can of compressed air yesterday!): I'm gonna try to clean it up a bit, but I'm afraid to break it even more when handling it. I noticed the screen doesn't always turn on when I boot the computer, specially if I close the lid. This is the laptop I use at work, so I tend to carry it around.

Bennyg, that would be an option indeed. But I wouldn't mind being able to use it as a laptop for a few more years.

By the way, does anyone managed to get XTU working with it? The last time I tried it I was unable to undervolt the laptop, plus it seemed to me all the cores were running at max settings. The laptop gets a bit hot, so I was hopping to cool it down that way. If I need to update the bios to tweak the settings, then I'm not running any risks.

 

You can use throttlestop to change max turbo multiplier (or also check my 1070 sli thread for a way to use XTU command line for startup without needing to open the gui manually every. single. boot.) I have XTU installed with premamod bios, but there is nothing to change, I don't think you can undervolt ivy bridge on any E series clevos (I never could even with XM CPUs on P370EM and P170EM)

But the real issue is why it runs hot, because unless youre hammering it with heavy workloads regularly (rogue background app?), it shouldn't. Mine doesnt run that hot with basic old AS5, 80-85C upper limit on stress test. Maybe you have a 45W CPU (higher than 3630qm)? Maybe it needs a repaste, also get that air can (or better a real man tool air compressor) and blow away the dust bunnies on the fan and grille

 

Well, maybe it had a heating issue since the beginning? I don't know...
I have the 3610qm, and I think I kinda hammered it when gaming during the first year: I was using throttlestop to set the multipliers to the max when gaming (to have the turboboost activated), and I wasn't checking my temperatures at the time. I'm at approximately 7000 feet high, in a very dry place: all of my laptops run a bit hotter in here than when I'm visiting my family in France (it's a 10°C difference, approximately).
One year after buying it, it started shutting down when gaming: a local shop did a repaste and pointed out the CPU showed signed of it having overheated (the die had some "stains" on it). After the repaste, I didn't have any other problems for the next 9 months or so, then I had to do a repaste myself.

I haven't gamed on it for years, so I haven't stress tested it. I did a clean install of windows yesterday, and I've been working on it for a couple of hours, and it's running around 73°C with peaks at 85°C. Yeah, time for a repaste, I know.

 

Hi, I just registered in this forum, buy I've been following this thread for a couple of years. I too am an owner of a clevo w110er, since summer of 2012 (so, just over five years now).

It's been a good machine overall, although I've had the usual problems that are described in this thread: I had to repair the hinges with repair putty and by loosening them up a bit, because they were so hard they ended up breaking the plastic chasis. I had to replace the keyboard, because some keys became more and more unresponsive. I also had to replace the wifi/bluetooth adaptor, because the wifi stopped working. I ended up upgrading the ssd to 512GB and the RAM memory to 16GB, so to this day it is the computer I use 24/7.

However, for the last few days I've noticed a new problem. The USB 3.0 are malfunctioning. I think it's a hardware problem, because the computer makes the sound of hardware connecting and desconnecting every time I touch the computer. I get a "USB Devide not recognized" message every time this happens, and basically, because those USBs have stopped working.

Has anyone had a similar problem before with the USB 3.0 in this computer? Is there a relatively easy way to repair it?

Thank you so much in advance.

 

Well, that's it, my W110er officially passed away.
For the past few months I noticed it sometimes had trouble booting up: nothing would show up on the screen, but pressing the power button a few times would boot it up, sometimes removing the battery also did the trick.
Well, today the led will flicker green two times and that's all.
Could be a mother board failure...Or the button no longer working...Or the laptop stuck in hibernation mode, I don't know. I tried unplugging the battery, removing the ram, leaving it for a while with nothing else, it didn't change a thing.
I think it's gone for good It's a shame, it was really working these past few days.

 

Tried clearing bios settings? (remove cmos battery as well as normal battery, press power button for 30sec)

 

Also is it charging the battery while off?

 

Well, I don't know how to remove the cmos battery. It's under where the hard drive was located, so I can't get it out. I can see it, but there is little wiggle-room to remove it. Seems to me I would need to completely dismantle the laptop to have access to that part of the motherboard. Unless if I simply unplug the red and black cable from the cmos to the motherboard, would that do the trick?

If the laptop is plugged then yes, the battery will charge, however I hardly use it anymore on battery mode (it only last for 30 minutes that way).

 

Yes unplugging the cable from the battery will do the trick.

 

Well, I tried but it doesn't seem possible to remove the cable from the cmos: it seems to glued to the motherboard, or simply too hard to remove and I don't want to break the cable.

EDIT: I left it at the store, the motherboard is dead. The technician found one online for $235: does any of you know if there is a cheaper one available somewhere? Thanks.

 

Hi all,
yesterday I had the problem with my clevo. It tried to perform intel rapid start technology (irst) works, but my laptop doesnt start with power button, just LED blinked 2 times ( i think it indicates that laptop is in hibernation mode). And do like bennyg said, I unplugged the CMOS battery's socket, unplugged the battery, and push the power button for 30s and I works very well. Thank you for bennyg and prema also for the bios!! It has been 5 years using this laptop and never had problems. I do not really like from this laptop on touchpad and the casing material. But for performance, I am very satisfied!

 

Thanks for the info, I'll definitely have to try that !...Well, I'll have to check with the technician who has the laptop: I wasn't able to remove the CMOS battery myself :/
Quick question: after pushing the power button for 30 seconds, did you replace both batteries before trying turning it on again? Or do you need to do something special such as "replace the CMOS one, not the normal battery, only the power cable, etc..."?

 

Yes. The motherboard should not be supplied by any power, it means from the battery and CMOS battery. To unplugged the CMOS battery, just unplug the socket with red and black wires between ram and harddisk by hand! I think it should work if your mobo just on bios problems.
Yes I replaced CMOS and battery after. CMOS is not really necessary since CMOS battery is only for maintain the clock during no power supply.

 

Thanks! How did you unplugged the CMOS battery? I wasn't able to unplug it: it seemed like the whole socket was glued or soldered in some way. Do you need to press somewhere (on the sides?) to get it out?

 

not in the CMOS side. but another one. plugged with motherboard!

 

It's the little connector next to the ram that you need to unplug.

 

Yes, the little connector indeed...That's the one I couldn't unplug for the life of me :/...Maybe I'm just terrible at those things.

 

I found a w110er on ebay, it had a broken chassis around the left hinge. i fixed it up with glue and some tape and finally a longer than normal screw for the base hole that was missing as it probably fell out when the previous owner broke the chassis opening the lid to far or with force, the long screw makes it so opening the lid feels normal and doesn't move the broken bit.

i had to the replace the following;

wifi card because it was an old one (had one spare)
screen because of a pressure mark (£30-40)
keyboard because it had several not very responsive keys (managed to find a uk one on ebay) £20
purchased a used wd dual drive (120gb sdd / 1tb hdd) as there is no msata

currently have a 2630qm installed, 8gb ram, will upgrade cpu at some point.

 

Connecting my Clevo W110ER to a GTX 970 (MSI Armor) via a GDC Beast 8.0 eGPU Dock!

Core i7 3630QM
8GB DDR3 2x4 1600 SODIM RAM
250GB Samsung 840
GTX 970
1440p QNIX Monitor

 

How's the eGPU connected? Wifi mPCIe? does it run x1 x2 or x4?

 

It will have to be the mini WiFi connector.

 

Hi guys, anyone still active here?

I always wanted one of these and even though its already 2018 there arent really any other 11.6" laptops out there with such a capable gpu/cpu combination.

There is the mx150 which is featured in many ultrabooks and even some cheaper ones like the xiaomi notebook air but many users report problems of throttling and heat issues.

I have just bought the following quite cheap from ebay:

w110er
- i5 3230M
- GT 650M
- 750GB SSHD
- 8GB RAM
- Windows 10 Pro

Now the biggest issue is that the arrow key that goes down is a little bit broken.

Anyone know where I can find a replacement keyboard and a tutorial on how to swap it?

Also I have been wondering about the Prema UV Mod bios, is this still something I should try even though I am running windows 10?

Looking forward to your answers, hopefully there are still some owners out there

 

The 3230m is not great being a duo core.
All 8th gen ulteabook have quad cores.
Even most intel graphics perform faster than the gt650m
Most 13" ultrabooks with slim bezels a similar sized footprint than a 11" laptop like the 110 but without the thickness.

 

Yeah thats why I mentioned the mx150, in terms of a notebook gpu, it is really powerful in combination with te current mobile cpus like kaby lake.

I know that the w110er is outdated but I got it really cheap and I mostly play vintage dos games and maximum stuff like fallout new vegas so for that purpose it will be fine

There are capable ultrabooks now but they are still way too expensive just to mess around with and for any serious gaming I would do it on a desktop anyways. Xiaomi aur 13 with mx150 can be had cheap though but, in terms of cooling, it seems to be really inefficient.

I agree with the footprint but a downside to most ultrabooks (sub 14") is they are not made for gaming when considering their cooling capablities and thermal throttling because they are built really thin.

What I dont agree with is the integrated intel hd being as powerful as the 650m, it may be getting closer but intels integrated gpus still suck in comparison to amds... The 650m is still better than a intel hd 615, 620 or 630

 

Not really. An iris pro 5200 mobile graphics released a year after the gt650m is only marginally less powerful.

http://www.game-debate.com/gpu/inde...s-pro-graphics-5200-mobile-vs-geforce-gt-650m

 

Interesting input! I didnt know about that one I would still argue nvidia drivers have an edge over the intel gpu ones.

And I would have definitely considered a laptop like the msi gs30 (which is the only 13 inch option I could find after a quick search) but seeing for what they go used on ebay it is way more then double for what I paid for the w110ER.

So anyone got some info on how hard it is to replace the keyboard and where to find a new one?

Also is the prema mod bios still available and worth it to use with windows 10 ? thanks alot in advance

 

Iris Pro machines are not that common and do carry a price premium usually.

 

Keyboard is held in by spring loaded tabs along the top that are stiff and tricky to get out of the way. Small flathead screwdriver, push in and move upwards (toward base of screen) to push the tabs from where they sit on top of the edge of the keyboard and then the keyboard will lift up from that end, pull the whole kb up a tiny bit to free it on the bottom (touchpad) side. From there it's just a standard ribbon connector.

Keyboards themselves are very cheap e.g. here on ebay

I just ordered one as the last step in rebuilding mine for the last time after it came off worse for wear after slipping and falling behind a desk onto the floor. I say 'the last time' because of the amount of super strength epoxy I pumped in the mangled hinge support areas ... if it does come apart again, it'll be because it is ripped in half.

Such an awesome little unit, still more than enough power for a portable. And I got mine basically given away due the mangled hinge areas and severed wifi antennae (I hack-modded in $2 worth of external antennae points for much bigger range) and this keyboard is the first real money I've spent on a part for it.

 

So I tried a 3740QM in my now fixed up W110ER and it behaved exactly like the 3630QM that was in there, locked to 35W power limit (approx 32.0 multipler in TSBench), no partial multiplier unlock (3740 should go up to x40 single x38 multi), no turbo options in XTU ?? Temps not a problem, 82C max, and it's not VRM overheat since this happened the same from 1st second to the end of a ~4 minute TSBench 1B run

Prema BIOS installed, tbh I forget if it was the undervolt version or not, but I did clear CMOS and reinstalled XTU and nothing changed. XTU settings very much greyed out, all I could actually change were the short/long power limits which did nothing

 

Yes XTU had to be unlocked in the BIOS for it to work.

 

Hey guys,

is there anyway to get the UOV and OV Version of the W110ER Bios?
I lost my backups and now i don't know how to get these bioses again.
I already wrote Prema on his old Email but i don't know if he even has this Mail online...
It would be just for personal use, so i would really appreciate some info

Cheers,
Constantin

 

Im having an issue with my W110ER. first of all the fan died. and the motherboard is only giving 0.11V instead of 5V so i used an usb cable and made it to and usb fan. but now the pc shuts off after about 20 minutes. even though there are no heating issues. Has anyone experienced anything like it?

 

Does loading impact the timing?

 

Loading what?
impacting the timing of when it shuts down?

 

Yes, does running a game accelerate the process?

 

Dosent seem that way. The fan still works although its powered externally so the heat is not a problem. il have to do some more tests i guess to get accurate timings but its about 20 minutes no matter the load

 

Sounds like a secondary circuit failing and causing a short over time, possibly related to the usb issue.

 

i just noticed the temperature on the GPU docent increase at all when running Furmark or other benchmarks. almost as if it thinks its thermal throttling while being at 35 degrees

 

Is it actually running on the GPU? What do the nvidia drivers say when you turn on the usage icon in the tools of the nvidia driver panel?

 

anyone find that the w110er suffers from dodgy screen hinges after some time?

i just fixed one with some q-bond, the plastic screw holes had snapped off from the base panel so the hinges were loose.
using some q-bond glue and power i managed to re-attatch the screw holes and now it's good as new again, well not new but it opens and closes just fine again.

i saw many pages talk of msata, i got a wd dual drive off ebay 120gb + 1tb seems to do the job nicely, pretty hard to come by these days.

had to replace the keyboard as well as some of the keys stopped working.

 

The hybrid 2 in 1 drives did die due to the costs usually involved compared to say a 500GB SSD.

 

^ that's what i thought, the wd black dual drivers were a rip off when new, still nice to have on a small laptop with no msata. used it was still cheaper than a big ssd.