*** Official Clevo W110ER / Sager NP6110 Owner's Lounge ***

Such is life.

I did the major work, and filtered it down to a few sellers (see a few pages back). After checking, one seller has key size 10mm x 11mm, and the other is 11.5mm x 13mm. Obviously, I am going with the larger size--I do not want partially shiny keys.

This is the version with larger coverage--which is what I'll be getting:
Glowing fluorescent English US keyboard stickers | eBay

 

I realize that the upcoming 35w dual core Ivy Bridge will be compatible, but can someone confirm that the 17w low voltage dual core Ivy Bridge will not be compatible? If that's the case, I'm leaning towards the 3610 quad core available now...

 

That is a good question. I believe all the Sandy Bridge 17W chips were BGA where the 35W/45W chips were PGA. It would be nice if there was a socketed 17W chip though.

 

UPDATE, just got the laptop. And applied ICD, also made some heatsink pressure testings. I contacted Innovation cooling a while ago and they gave me some pressure testing kits. All I have to say right now is that the surface pressure of the processor is VERY bad, and we better not talk about gpu... I've tested some other laptops but this one emmm this also explains a little bit why the temps. ICD REALLY helps. Will post detailed results soon.

 

Temps while running VM(s) should be proportional to the load of those VMs and how many virtual cores you allocated to the VMs total. If you're running a few idle VMs your host OS temps should at most be marginally higher than normal idle temps.

Worst case you have some number of VMs that are fully loading the machine in both CPU, RAM, and IO while you're playing a 3d game. In that case I'd expect they'd be close to the top end synthetic temps (e.g. prime95+furmark type workloads).

In real world scenarios I've run vmware for a linux box under an OSX host and at idle the vmware process takes <5% CPU always while the linux guest is idling. The VM only has a single core allocated (virtually) so at worst it can peg one of two cores.

Now if you're going to give the VM all 4 cores and be compiling kernels 24/7 that might load it up pretty well.

Gaidin

 

Alight i have an update for those of you interested in overclocking the GPU. apparently the drivers from sager or clevo either dont support it or don't allow you to or any program was unable to use those drivers.... anyways just installed the latest 302.59 drivers from laptopvideo2go.com and overclocking the GPU works perfectly fine. I have the GPU running at 1Ghz and the memory at 1080Mhz. running MSI kumbuster tho im at 87C on the GPU and about 100W from the wall.

 

Do the updated drivers help with power draw when not overclocking? I'm connecting the laptop to a dual 21.5in 1080p setup when not mobile, so it may be a slight concern if it can't handle it...

 

Hhmm actually maybe slightly. im seeing about a 1-2w difference. normally its around 26w idle bouncing around to 28w but now its a constant 25 dropping to 24 sometimes.

Edit: oh and this is running a 23" 1920x1080 along with the laptop screen. running multiple displays on the ivy GPU does not make any noticeable difference on the power consuption.

 

I.e. is that what the indicator is reporting or have you actually played a game at 835Mhz Core clock captured FPS. Then ran same game again with 1000Mhz Core clock and again captured FPS? You should be able to do this with just combuster and see if you get a gain. I.e. Don't clock memory, just main core clock. Test @ 835Mhz OC then again at 1000Mhz and see if there is a FPS difference. If not then the indicator could be bad, as have been previously reported with this card.

P.s. I hope that your right and it is OC'ing and doesn't require a VBios Mod.
P.s.s. You should jump on Dethklok's server sometime.

 

It's funny that this machine draws two completely separate flavors of owners. Those that want to OC and push the machine to it's Thermal and Watt limit, and those that want to pull it back as far as possible and make it last as long as possible on battery.

11.6" gaming notebook a dead segment and not worth supporting! Shame on you Alienware! Too bad that Clevo is such a boutique brand and not mainstream, at least here in the US. Well, at least us techies know and love it!

 

Question about Power:

The W110ER's manual only specifies a 90W AC/DC Adapter - there's no mention of a 120 Watt AC Adapter. Also, the 35 Watt i7-3612QM is the only 3rd Gen CPU listed in the manual. I assume this means the 45 Watt 3610QM (and higher) would require the 120 Watt AC/DC Adapter. Is my assumption correct?

If so, then did everyone that ordered an 3610QM (or higher) get a 120 Watt AC/DC Adapter?

I'm just curious since I noticed that at least one of the sellers gives two options for AC/DC Adapters.

I apologize if this has already been answered earlier in this thread, maybe I missed it over the last couple of days.

 

IMHO, your correct if you get a quad 45W CPU then you "should" go with a 120W power supply. I would be interested to see someone with a 3610 max out his CPU and GPU and run it off a 90W adapter. Preferably someone with a non SSD drive. Full brightness, Blare music @ full etc. Pump out the JAMs!! Just to see if it would shut off on them.

 

Is it possible to set the TDP like Anand did with the UX21A?

 

alright so ran a quick test on Unigine heaven 3.0 and ran stock GPU speed. 950Mhz (boost) then ran +50Mhz 1000Mhz (boost) and saw a 3.5% increase in performance





And man I have not played 2142 in so long. I have been playing BF3. But I should reinstall it

 

Nice!
Have you tried OCing while gaming?
How many more FPS did you get and what were the temps?
Got mine today late, UPS guy came around 7PM and just getting it set up, I got the matte screen from Mythologic and glad I did viewing angles are OK but screen is bright and pretty crisp, it may not be the best 11" screen but it's still pretty good, maybe it's the Free MYTH Professional Monitor Color Calibration
they do but all in all very glad I got the matte screen.
And a about the PSU, I thought I was going to get the 90W but pleasantly surprised I got the 130W with built in fan even after Myth told me it only comes with the 90W version.I have the 3610QM.
@ Cpt.Derreck can you download those drivers for us? I don't know how to install them, sorry i feel like such a noob but I alwas just downloaded then from nvidia's site.

After 15 mnutes of Furmark all stock GPU tops out at 81c, not bad.

 

nah have not gamed on it with the overclock. I still need to find out a max stable clock. +50Mhz was a rough OC and +180 on the memory still needs to be refined.
Im thinking of buying that matte screen aswell. Im going to see what HT says about it.

 

Try doing the same with kombustor please? I think that 20 FPS vs 20.7 FPS maybe too low and may just fall within a range of error.
Then again OC'ing the core may just not be worth it. I've seen some M14x owners talking about OC'ing their mem to 1304 stable. Hrm, I thought they had 2000 to begin with though?

 

Are you using a cooler? If not try propping the back of the laptop up about an inch, leaving the fan intake on the side unobstructed and try it again. You should see a small decrease in temps. I know this is true with my old M11x.

 

Just ran MSI kumbuster and got about a 3% increase with the additional 50Mhz. x648 with stock and x668 with +50Mhz. Ill try overclocking more when i get home for work, as i need to get to bed.

 

IKAS V: check this one, hope it helps

 

damn ive got only 2.40 hours of moderate browsing. Proc has been clocked to 1.2ghz. Any ways to improve battery live?
is use ssd and i7 3610

 

Make sure it's set it to "balanced" mode and reduce screen brightness. Make sure your 650m isn't activated for some reason. Just idling it can consume a decent amount of power.

Is that 2.4 hours estimated or 2.4 hours of actual use before the system started telling you to plug in? First time drain estimations can be way off. I always do a full battery drain (to 5%) shortly after I get a laptop and make sure I've installed BatteryBar or BatteryCare so that it can register the drain/recalibrate, for a more accurate reading.

 

It seems even with 120W CPU the system itself will peak at 90W. It will not shut off on them, just throttle things like CPU, GPU, etc to reduce power consumption. The advantage of the 120W of course is that you won't be maxing out the PSU at full load like you would with 90W.

Nope.

Definitely an improvement. I also put some copper heatsinks on the CPU. It dropped peak temps (Prime95) by like 4C. But there's no extra air moving over it. If I can open up the bottom and figure an easy way to move air over it can probably drop temps another 4-5C.

 

http://upload.wikimedia.org/wikiped...IBM_old_hdd_mod.jpg/714px-IBM_old_hdd_mod.jpg

Do you think that would fit into my lappy ?

 

You know what's funny? I haven't yet seen mine give me a "drain estimation" - it only ever shows the percentage remaining...

Also, regarding the reflective/glow keys - my original plan to compensate for the lack of a backlit keyboard was to use some UV LEDs - I hoped that the white from the keys would reflect the tiny amount of visible light (depending on the wavelength) while the rest of the system would stay dark. I didn't end up moving forward with the plan though because I found my old Eclipse lamp (the older model below on the left) and positioned it above my primary seating device (favorite chair) and it gives perfect indirect lighting (even with the glossy screen).



I also bought one of these and slid 4 red Slurpee straws over it to tone it down - but I only use it when I'm away from my chair. It says its 1 watt but its gets pretty warm (even without the straws) so I don't like the extra power draw.



HOWEVER, those reflective keys have me thinking I should revisit the UV idea if they don't work well enough on their own... I just wish they were white instead of yellow...

 

This also depends on pricing you find at the particular dealer you're working with. If you see an upgrade from the 3610QM to the 3720QM for $50, it's cost efficient for the clock speed increase from 2.3ghz to 2.6ghz. The same can't be said as far as pricing from the 3720QM to the 3820QM and 3920XM.

 

Nope.
I do have one but I want to see what temps are stock.

Thanks!

 

We allready enabled TDP settings in the latest beta bios...will test Configurable TDP next

 

I have the 90W PSU and have done the above and reached no higher pull from the wall then HTWingnut has. Until Prema gets a modified BIOS created that allows us to push the CPU above 2.3GHZ while stressing the dGPU we won't be seeing a power draw figure that requires a >90W PSU as the machine is currently BIOS limited from overdrawing.

 

Hopefully it works better then the # of Core configuration setting. I did find out where the CMOS battery is and that there is a cable next to the HD bay that you can pull to reset things without pulling out the HD to get at the CMOS battery.

 

Ya, we had to pull that quite a few times...

 

Guys...where do you pick up the Coolermaster USNA 120? I've been looking everywhere for it.

 

Well, I got the modified INF file and got both versions(301.42 from nVidia and the 302.59 from LV2G) to install using it. However, both versions do not save the power mizer settings and consequently the 650M runs at full speed constantly.

I'm going to see if I can find a CD player to copy the original drivers off the driver CD and go back to them.

 

My experience tells me that it's best to stick with stock GPU drivers whenever possible. You eventually run into problems. Maybe it's not idling properly, or maybe you find out HDMI doesn't carry sound anymore. It's not usually worth it... at least not until games start complaining that your drivers are too old to be usable.

 

Would you say to stay away from the latest Nvidia driver then? (301.42) And keep it at the stock? I was eager on updating due to FXAA and performance improvements.

 

I can't say for sure that you'll lose anything, but have a copy of the stock driver on hand in case you have to revert to the older drivers to restore lost functionality. (I agree that FXAA looks nice.) If you need your driver to be bullet-proof, don't upgrade.

If you want to test newer drivers, I'd be curious to read results--particularly if you're willing to test fickle things like power usage and sound over HDMI.

 

Okay guys, I received my NP6110 yesterday, and I want to love it so bad, but I'm getting STOP F4 BSODs like crazy, even on a fresh install of Windows 7. I got the Intel 520 series 120gb SSD, so I don't know if that has anything to do with it. Anyone have any ideas? The firmware on the SSD is up to date. Any other drivers I should try to update?

 

... If I got BSODs on first boot, I'd just return it immediately for a replacement instead of going through the hassle and 'accidentally' going over the return period.

 

Probably bad RAM or faulty SSD. RMA / return it ASAP

 

Well, I found the CD and a desktop with a CD player. I did the uninstall, reboot safemode, driversweeper, ccleaner, reboot and installed the OEM 295.93 but GPU-Z, HWinfo, and MSI afterburner still all say that the 650m is running at 835mhz all the time.

I'm wondering what could have caused this given that it worked with this driver version before. I'm open to suggestions as otherwise I'm going to restore from the backup I made initially when I've got some free time tomorrow.

 

You can download all stock drivers from Sager's website:

Software Upgrade

I just noticed there are some new updates there too, including video drivers. Will check them out tonight!

 

Nice. If my w110ER shipped a few days ago, do you think they installed the latest version? I'm not sure how good these guys are with installing drivers on site - I know dell usually stays with the initial drivers and I have to upgrade them manually.

 

Which reseller did you order from?

Btw, the newest drivers are usually installed yes

 

After some hand-wringing, I ended up going with Xotic PC. I'll put up a review of the process once it reaches my hands - which probably won't be for another week.

 

Yeah I noticed that those setting did not work on mine aswell bit with the stock ones that tab is not even there. The gpu does infact turn off though. As long as you have it set in the 3d settings on the nvidia control panel and on the power saver on the laptop control center.

 

Stock NVidia drivers usually hide most settings.

 

A couple of things you can try is making sure your sata iii drivers are installed. You might have to reinstall windows and when you make your drive selection select the part where it says load drivers and have the Intel sata iii drivers on a flash drive to load them. If that does not work try reseating your ram and run a memory test.

 

I didn't see a definitive reply to whether or not this Clevo 110ER would be able to support upcoming 17w low voltage dual core Ivy Bridge. Something about PGA vs. BGA but can anyone confirm? Else if it's 35/45w dual or quad then there would likely be negligible thermal/battery improvements waiting for dual core 35w.

 

Do we have some electronicians out there ? i'm thinking about a mod to help cooling this laptop...i've found a tiny fan wich specs are:
17x17x3 mm
10,5 l/min air flow
0,88 g
0,09 w
30 mA
2.2 to 3.5V
3V DC
21,2 dB

I know it's a bit crazy, but would this be sufficient to help cooling the CPU ? and how it would be mounted, and more importantly,powered ?

 

AAAUUGGGHHH!



I got my LCD today. It was nothing short of frustration. The required bracket is built into the existing LCD. I thought it was just taped on, but in trying to cut the tape off, I broke the stock LCD.

So I decided to just hack off the bracket anyhow since I needed something. Well the end result is that the screen is too thick, and not possible to center it within the bezel. I was able to get it together, but it's a disaster. Guess I'll just have to order from Mythlogic or get a stock screen.

My advice, buy the proper screen...